Thermalright Ultra Extreme Copper

Here are my playas' :cool:

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Did some testing as well, and I can tell you that there is no difference between regular TRUE- I would call it typical collectors item and this is Thermalrights point as they "stated" that this cooler will be produced in limited amount 3000pcs!
In my testing Black ed. even achieved little better results, but you can probably write off it on mounting- I run those tests twice with remounting Cu ed. and results had the same tendency! Used the same mounting for both coolers and contact were good and difference between cores were within 1-2C


MB: Gigabyte EP35-DS3P (bios F3)
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad QX6700 @ 3,4Ghz 1.42V & 1,55V
Fans: Gelid Silent case fan 12 PWM @ 1350rpm during tests & SilenX iXterma Pro 120x120x38, 1400rpm, 90CFM , 18DBA (by spec :p)
Thermal grease: Arctic Silver Ceramique
read software: Core Temp 0.96.1
Ambient temp: ~19C
Load: Prime 95 small FTTs


TRUE Black 120

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TRUE Copper
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Load Prime 95 Small FTT, QX6700 @ 3,4Ghz 1.42V


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Load Prime 95 Small FTT, QX6700 @ 3,4Ghz 1.55V

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Have my new setup kinda running now. Some early numbers, TRUEcu + Zigmatek 70cfm fan = 55C @ 4.02Ghz (1.288v) in BIOS.

MB Temprature = 55C as well.
 
Someone review this against the swiftech H20 120 compact? Their both about the same price. I wonder which one has the better cooling capacity.

Mark
 
Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents about the temperature thing.

The temps reported by the cores I'm pretty sure are closer to the actual CPU temperature. Why? Because its higher. The temp inside the core is going to be higher than the heat spreader, which is going to be higher than the heatsink, etc. At each step, heat is lost (well transferred anyway,with the final transfer going to the air in an air cooled CPU), which if it wasn't, then the cpu would burn up :)
Although that one core being a differant temp is odd, I'd say its likely that that one core is off in the reported temperature.

I'm sure intel measures the temps multiple ways to help verify the temps they read are correct.

However, I agree with your decision to measure the temps like you did. It helps keep things comparable between setups, and since its an external device (and probably calibrated) that is measuring temperatures, it should be quite accurate as to the temperature of the heat spreader. And since the entire heatsink comparision only really matters as to the differances between the temps (thus showing how effective they are) and not the absolute temps (i.e. is this heatsink +5 or -5 degrees compared to that one, it doesn't really matter if they are 65/60 or 70/75). In fact, your careful management of the ambient temperature shows that you know this and work hard to keep things comparable between test runs.

In other words, I'm quibbling with how you stated the reasons behind choosing this method but I agree with your actual method chosen :)

Yeah I'm nitpicking.

BTW guys, thanks for your reviews. I love to see [H] reviews that are so strict and realistic on how you guys test, especially for power supply reviews. So many PSU "reviews" don't do much besides taking highly innacurate voltage readings from the motherboard, and say how pretty the case is (without ever looking inside). I love that you guys go into the detail you do, even to the brands of capacitors inside the PSU.
 
Sexy. Kinda wish I went for a TRUE instead of the Ultima90 but its doing a decent job so I cant really complain.
 
Bajeesus! This thing weighs 3x what my current air cooler does. I've got a flat mobo setup, but I am still afraid this thing would hurt the hell out of it.
 
Welp, just got it in. It's in desperate need of lapping and it's heavy as hell. Hmmmm. Tempted just to hang on for it for a while. Keep it NIB and hold on to it.
 
and you guys dont include the top air cooler out right now? the Sunbeam Contact Freezer? tahts just gay.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2271&page=5

Without using any real interpolation or statistical mean... you could at least get the idea that it would score around 34degree in the [H] Lab, if we trust Frosty's numbers...

Also, if you are in the market for a cooler, you may want to look around (more than just H and Frosty) to see what the results are... if you are not in the market... why do you even care? Oh i get it, you don't get to enlarge your e-peen by seeing your cooler beat the TRUE copper on [H]?...

I own a Core-contact, im very pleased with it's performance and that's all i care about...
 
Someone review this against the swiftech H20 120 compact? Their both about the same price. I wonder which one has the better cooling capacity.

Mark

I was about to get this but there are a lot of reports of leaky pumps so I decided to stay away.
 
Damn just bought the black version :) ..If I sometime decides to get this one i don't hope that they decide to make a silver or even diamond version lol :p :D Naa properly to expensive :)
 
Yeah, as it turns out, this thing really IS terribly heavy. I had earlier planned to mount this thing in a horizontal motherboard setup, but even just moving the motherboard horizontally in my hands, I could feel the labored screams of my motherboard. No way am I leaving this thing installed! I'm going to downgrade to something more manageable. Probably the aluminum version.

Ah well. Guess sometimes I have to learn the hard way. I've always been too partial to white elephants.
 
Yeah, as it turns out, this thing really IS terribly heavy. I had earlier planned to mount this thing in a horizontal motherboard setup, but even just moving the motherboard horizontally in my hands, I could feel the labored screams of my motherboard. No way am I leaving this thing installed! I'm going to downgrade to something more manageable. Probably the aluminum version.

Ah well. Guess sometimes I have to learn the hard way. I've always been too partial to white elephants.

Dunno what your plans are for it, but there have been a bunch of people looking to buy one but can't find them. I'd be surprised if you couldn't sell it for what you paid for it in the For Sale forum.
 
I'm selling mine, new in box. I guess I should post it in the FS section.
 
exactly the reason why I think this thing is a waste. Sure it looks cool, but how many people are actually going to use it? the temps are nothing to write home about. and over 100 bucks for an air cooler? that's like 2 cartons of cigarettes and gas for 2 weeks. i love my original (OG edition) TRUE
 
Well I have more numbers after overclocking the I7. Im currently running the 920 @ 4ghz 50 runs of intelburntest stable, idle temp 40c load temp 70c. This is with 2 70cfm 20 db Xigmatek fans.
 
Damn just bought the black version :) ..If I sometime decides to get this one i don't hope that they decide to make a silver or even diamond version lol :p :D Naa properly to expensive :)

Ha, if it weren't so expensive I'd like to do some experiments comparing heat transfer rates between copper/silver heatsinks. The difference is probably too small to be worth the price jump -- and would using the silver on a contact surface present problems (tarnishing)? Diamond is just not happening -- but perhaps nanotubes or nanotube derivatives in the future? I've read estimates of thermal conductivities of 5000-6000 W/m•K, well above that of diamond (~2000 W/m•K, lower if not pure). Perhaps McGill wouldn't mind giving me some money to do a little research...

--Edit--

PS, are there any companies researching (or making, I don't keep up with this stuff very well) HSF with self-powered fans? I know it isn't very efficient at all, but they could turn some of that heat into useable work. For example, the Q6600 gives off what, 130W? How much power do you need to power a 92mm or 120mm fan? A ceiling fan in your house needs ~50W, max. So even if you had a 10% mechanical efficiency on whatever motor (don't know enough to say what kind) does the converting, you'd have more than enough to power a fan that size. Obviously this wouldn't make a big difference in any end-users' lives, but it would be cool!

Could you take advantage of the Seebeck effect to run an electric motor?
 
It might be "cool", the problem is it wouldn't be cool. If you wanted something that's cool, add a peltair block to your watercooling setup, you just better have enough extra radiator for the 300Watts of heat your going to add. :)
 
It wouldn't be any less cool than current HSF. Most of the energy would be dissipated (heat), and some would be converted to work to power the fan. I looked up the power consumption of Antec's TriCool 120mm fans, and at max RPM they still use less than 3W. So a self-powered HSF is very doable, just probably not worth the time or money to make. ;)
 
Weight an issue for me .....

Getting either the Black or Copper TRUE (More data on the Copper to justify purchase ) and will build the below Torture Rack from Danger Den to keep the mobo horizontal and not have to worry about the weight of the Copper or Black version. Retire the Cosmos S case.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/DangerDen/Torture_rack/3.html

Two of these for the Cooler as well for Push/Pull

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8449/bra-29/Thermalright_Ultra-120_Series_Fan_Bracket.html
 
ALL TRUE's need excessive lapping before use.

I've owned / sold / lapped probably 15 of them now including the Cu. I remember the first 3 or so when they first came out were pretty darn flat, but still needed a lot of lapping. The recent ones were just attrocious. I think TR is just pumping these things out so fast, they don't care about the defective manu process. The most recent ones are just horrible. Still the best coolers out there, so I'll put up with it. Gettin' pretty darn good at lapping 'em now.
 
ALL TRUE's need excessive lapping before use.

I've owned / sold / lapped probably 15 of them now including the Cu. I remember the first 3 or so when they first came out were pretty darn flat, but still needed a lot of lapping. The recent ones were just attrocious. I think TR is just pumping these things out so fast, they don't care about the defective manu process. The most recent ones are just horrible. Still the best coolers out there, so I'll put up with it. Gettin' pretty darn good at lapping 'em now.

I havent checked how flat my TRUE is but its got my (early) E8400 to 4.1GHz @ 1.4V.
Max load temp varies between 63 and 67C with a silent 120mm fan, using MX-2 paste.
No lapping needed here :)
 
Weight an issue for me .....

Getting either the Black or Copper TRUE (More data on the Copper to justify purchase ) and will build the below Torture Rack from Danger Den to keep the mobo horizontal and not have to worry about the weight of the Copper or Black version. Retire the Cosmos S case.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/DangerDen/Torture_rack/3.html

Two of these for the Cooler as well for Push/Pull

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8449/bra-29/Thermalright_Ultra-120_Series_Fan_Bracket.html


You wont be able to use two of those at once, as the clips prohibit it.
use one, and then use on of the standard out of the box clips for a scythe s-flex or something
 
I havent checked how flat my TRUE is but its got my (early) E8400 to 4.1GHz @ 1.4V.
Max load temp varies between 63 and 67C with a silent 120mm fan, using MX-2 paste.
No lapping needed here :)

Just because you or I was successful in getting a good OC, doesn't mean the thing doesn't need to be lapped. This is [H] man! :) Yank 'er out and see if you can shave another 3-4 degrees of those temps.

I've seen them so bad they actually will rock back and forth on a flat piece of glass by a surprising amount. Amazing TR can get away with this, but, yet they are and I'm buying 'em up.
 
Hehe, I'm not fussed, its a great overclock and more than I need for now.
When I change my CPU I'll give it a look.
 
You wont be able to use two of those at once, as the clips prohibit it.
use one, and then use on of the standard out of the box clips for a scythe s-flex or something


Actually I do have two installed at once and no issue to mention. Temp with Push/Pull went down just one degree cel over just one fan/bracket.

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/9761/1002os1.jpg

Also no lapping with my Thermalright 120 Black TRUE either with temps well within normal and just read one guy who lapped his cooler and saw no results what so ever. May have done something wrong, who knows

Everest/Real Temp Program

Room Ambient temp: 75 degress Far
E8400 none O/C: 33c CPU.... 33c Mobo... Real Temp 37/40
Tj set at 100, not 95 as some are still doing with their E8xxx series CPU.
 
that is some ridiculous price thought. I could spend that extra money on a better CPU and get a good $20 cooler instead.
 
I'm probably going to have to let mine go...as much as I love it, I'm not prepared to rig something to manage the weight of the thing.
 
looks nice not worth it, your heat isnt going to get transferd that high up on it most of it will dicipate by that time ((fan)) and ive owned the other one that not all copper version and its really heavy soo heavy is could warp your board.
 
looks nice not worth it, your heat isnt going to get transferd that high up on it most of it will dicipate by that time ((fan)) and ive owned the other one that not all copper version and its really heavy soo heavy is could warp your board.
I'm fairly certain that you have absolutely no idea what you're talking about. Pretty much everything you said there is incorrect.
 
looks nice not worth it, your heat isnt going to get transferd that high up on it most of it will dicipate by that time ((fan)) and ive owned the other one that not all copper version and its really heavy soo heavy is could warp your board.

Please go some where else to share your "knowledge".
 
I'd like to get one but it's a bit too much $ for me. I was going to go for the TRUE black but long story short I was shipped a Mugen 2 instead of a Ninja 2 and the Mugen 2 won't fit in the case it was ordered for so I am now using the Mugen 2 as my main desktop CPU cooler. That TRUE copper is an absolutely gorgeous cooler though :D.

<and yes I did contact the retailer and let them know about the mixup and I was told I could keep it of I wanted it>
 
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