Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

NCX said:
Just finished gaming, my colour profile worked for L4D2, Bad Company 2 and Homefront. The input lag is low enough that I can comfortably game with Vsync @60hz after coming from a 120hz TN, except with Homefront and the triple buffering in L4D2. I can barely play on my 850D with Vsync off due to the input lag, so I pretty much never do. I'd say the Crossover is faster than the 850D. There is very minor streaking/smearing and overshoot/corona effect (shield/tail forming around moving objects) but it is minimal compared to the 850D which shows large overshoots depending on the colours when using the "Faster," overdrive setting. Using the lower "Normal," setting eliminates overshoot but there is streaking/smearing and 18ms of input lag. The Crossover shows less ghosting than a few TN panels I have used like the Samsung S27a550h and HP 2509B.
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Nice.

What resolution did you play? 1440? Or did it upscale?

A question about 1440p monitors in general. Watching movies 1080p in full screen, does it notice any degradation in the naked eye due to the upscaling or its not visible? How does it compare an 1440p 27 full screen 1080p movie against an native 1080p 27'' in watching full screen movies? Any difference to the naked eye?
 
So been using this with the 230v brick for more than a week... (or so).

No issues. Brick gets barely warm to touch (less warm than my laptop brick which is made for 110-220), the monitor itself works like a charm.

Some color banding and glow, as said to be normal for IPS, but other that pretty damn perfect for 400$

Not even going to bother to get a 110 brick, it's obvious this 230 one uses internals that support 110
 
tfouto said:
Nice.

What resolution did you play? 1440? Or did it upscale?

A question about 1440p monitors in general. Watching movies 1080p in full screen, does it notice any degradation in the naked eye due to the upscaling or its not visible? How does it compare an 1440p 27 full screen 1080p movie against an native 1080p 27'' in watching full screen movies? Any difference to the naked eye?
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I used 1440p.

1280x544p+ content looks fine on a 1440p display (assuming there are not a ton of compression artifacts which will be more obvious on a 1440 display), only SD material looks noticeably worse vs a native 1080p display.

Netflix looks like total shit but it does regardless of the display. The only way to make it look good is to sit far enough way so that you will no longer be able to tell.
 
BDV said:
So been using this with the 230v brick for more than a week... (or so).

No issues. Brick gets barely warm to touch (less warm than my laptop brick which is made for 110-220), the monitor itself works like a charm.

Some color banding and glow, as said to be normal for IPS, but other that pretty damn perfect for 400$

Not even going to bother to get a 110 brick, it's obvious this 230 one uses internals that support 110
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My power brick gets kinda hotter than I expected. I am not sure it's anything to worry about, but I am a little anyway. Just curious, about what percentage of brightness do you run yours out? I was using 100% brightness when I noticed it was pretty hot. So I turned mine down and it seemed to help some.

I guess my fear is the power brick will eventually fail due to the heat. And the only replacement I'm aware of cost $130, ugh.
 
Ravynmagi said:
I guess my fear is the power brick will eventually fail due to the heat. And the only replacement I'm aware of cost $130, ugh.
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That $130 powersupply should only be temporary price gouging. Two sellers (the same sellers maybe?) had it recently for around $30 shipped.

You can probably source them elsewhere on Google or even Ebay. I'll look into eventually, if i find any deals on powersupplies i'll post them here, might be a while though.
 
I've noticed that the brick gets warm which is to be expected i guess. My concern is that the plug that goes into the wall from the power strip gets hot when this thing is plugged in. Maybe I've got too many things running through one power strip.
 
SJetski71 said:
That $130 powersupply should only be temporary price gouging. Two sellers (the same sellers maybe?) had it recently for around $30 shipped.

You can probably source them elsewhere on Google or even Ebay. I'll look into eventually, if i find any deals on powersupplies i'll post them here, might be a while though.
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Another alternative would be buying a step-up transformer to convert the 110 VAC to 220 VAC. A brief Google found a couple 100W units for $15 - $25 each.
 
saiyr said:
Just a warning, guys. The Catleap I got today came with a 190-240V adapter. Doesn't work in the US. Someone else received one in Canada today with the same brick. All of the replacement adapters for this on eBay are conveniently over $100 as of today.
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Don't go to ebay, get a standard 24V DC supply and cut / rewire the plug yourself. Should be $10-20. Step up transformer will be cheaper and easier though, so I'd probably go that route.
 
Tried hooking my 360 up to it using an HDMI to DVI adapter. At 1280x720 it works for a minute or two but then the screen changes to black for a few seconds at random intervals. Has anyone experienced anything like this on theirs? It works perfectly fine at 2560x1440 on my PC.
 
silent-circuit said:
Don't go to ebay, get a standard 24V DC supply and cut / rewire the plug yourself. Should be $10-20. Step up transformer will be cheaper and easier though, so I'd probably go that route.
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Is the reason the power brick is running hot is because it doesn't have the step down transformer?
 
silent-circuit said:
Don't go to ebay, get a standard 24V DC supply and cut / rewire the plug yourself. Should be $10-20. Step up transformer will be cheaper and easier though, so I'd probably go that route.
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Amazon has decently rated step up transformers for good prices.

I've read the reviews on a few of them, the only major complaint is that the MFR seems to overrate them, which can lead to problems of course. So from what i've read it's recommended that you buy something rated ~100% higher than what you'll need to offer some headroom.

For example here's a 300 watt model for $27 shipped, order fulfilled by Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource®-STU-300-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B0022TOK2Q/

Ibdabloke said:
Another alternative would be buying a step-up transformer to convert the 110 VAC to 220 VAC. A brief Google found a couple 100W units for $15 - $25 each.
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Going by a lot of the reviews on Amazon, a 100 watt step up transfomer probably won't be enough, apparently some MFR's overate them (as mentioned above).
 
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My Killawatt shows my QH270-Lite using 70 watts at max brightness. So I think I'll go with the 200 watt stepdown transformer.

Edit: Nevermind, I getting the 300 watt one after all, because I need to spend $25 for the free shipping. :)
 
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If there is any question about the power brick you should replace it. You do not want an accidental fire.
 
Ravynmagi said:
My power brick gets kinda hotter than I expected. I am not sure it's anything to worry about, but I am a little anyway. Just curious, about what percentage of brightness do you run yours out? I was using 100% brightness when I noticed it was pretty hot. So I turned mine down and it seemed to help some.

I guess my fear is the power brick will eventually fail due to the heat. And the only replacement I'm aware of cost $130, ugh.
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I set my brightness to the minimum. 100% brightness (even 40%+ ) burns my eyes.
 
Ravynmagi said:
Edit: Nevermind, I getting the 300 watt one after all, because I need to spend $25 for the free shipping. :)
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Ya i noticed the same thing, which is why i linked the 300w version. Plus you never know what you may need it for in the future so the extra capacity, and even the USB plug, might come in handy.
 
An OC forum member claims the original seller of the replacement power brick has lowered his prices again, $24 shipped....would anyone remember if it is the original seller and the right power brick?
 
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SJetski71 said:
An OC forum member claims the original seller of the replacement power brick has lowered his prices again, $24 shipped....would anyone remember if it is the original seller and the right power brick?
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That is the exact same seller and item that was advertised for almost $130 just yesterday. Though I have no idea if it'll work or not.

The power brick that came with my monitor is 24V 5A with 4 pins. So I took a gamble on this instead (didn't see the above price cut earlier)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230429304449
 
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Looks like most of the sellers have dropped their QH270-lite prices to $330 or slightly lower now.
 
Ravynmagi said:
That is the exact same seller and item that was advertised for almost $130 just yesterday. Though I have no idea if it'll work or not.

The power brick that came with my monitor is 24V 5A with 4 pins. So I took a gamble on this instead (didn't see the above price cut earlier)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230429304449
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Careful that you get the polarity right -- some of those plugs have the + to the right of the key, some to the left. It was discussed earlier in the thread, I don't currently remember which way is needed for these monitors.

If your brick isn't getting really hot (warm is normal, it's a 100w fanless supply like for a laptop, and many of them get hot as hell) and your monitor is working correctly I wouldn't bother with a replacement.
 
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dcsamsungmall is the fastest, excellent customer service as well. 2 days from Seoul to Phoenix,AZ
 
Is it even possible to run 3 of these in eyefinity or surround?

I am thinking at that res, that it is not, am I wrong? :confused:
 
What type of plug is used on all these monitors/who makes it? Seems like a very uncommon type, is there much use of them besides that mysterious Effinet monitor?
 
Ravynmagi said:
That is the exact same seller and item that was advertised for almost $130 just yesterday. Though I have no idea if it'll work or not.

The power brick that came with my monitor is 24V 5A with 4 pins. So I took a gamble on this instead (didn't see the above price cut earlier)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230429304449
Click to expand...

silent-circuit said:
Careful that you get the polarity right -- some of those plugs have the + to the right of the key, some to the left. It was discussed earlier in the thread, I don't currently remember which way is needed for these monitors.

If your brick isn't getting really hot (warm is normal, it's a 100w fanless supply like for a laptop, and many of them get hot as hell) and your monitor is working correctly I wouldn't bother with a replacement.
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Yup. The polarity is backwards on the one I linked. Shame I didn't catch that before buying it.
 
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I've been using the Achieva Shimian for two weeks now and I love it! Honestly the best upgrade for the money by far. I prefer the brightness around 10/30 and still it's very bright at that level. The '220V' adapter runs cooler than body temperature and should be fine.
 
ordered a tempered glass shimian from dreamseller Wednesday morning, its on truck for delivery today in Chicago, awesome.
 
ordered 3 from Red Cap last night. Have not read much about Red lately. Hopefully they will all be good.

i got the plain jane catleaps..
 
joarce said:
So the mDP needs to be dual link? The inexpensive cable I previously linked is Dual Link DVI.

Is there no alternative other than the ridiculously overpriced Apple cable?
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I know it's a tardy answer, but this one works for about $55.00
 
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granite said:
on youtube there are some 2k and 4k videos shot by RED cams. try those.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t56ooXC9VmY&feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQ0i3v_KVY

Where it says Quality, Change it to Original.
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Mr.Pixel said:
See Timescapes and download the 1440p trailer.
Some of the Blender movies like Sintel may be available in 2K+ resolutions as well.
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Thanks, there's also a 4K official youtube page: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5BF9E09ECEC8F88F
 
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