Zarathustra[H]
Extremely [H]
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2000
- Messages
- 38,878
Thanks for the comments. I will update the guide based on feedback later today.
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On my JU7100 on my 18gbps 25' cable it had problems. I set UHD color on but after TV restart I got a of static with my desktop image and bad crackling noise. So 4:4:4 isnt happening dammit, but I tried.This is cool, I got the 7100. I couldn't use it on the computer desk, its on the side wall at a right angle to my main desktop spot. I needed a 25ft hdmi, I got a Mediabridge 18gbps for $13 on amazon, praying I can do 4k@60hz 4:4:4. If anyone got theres to work UHD color on a 25" hdmi 18gbps let me. I'll get the cable routed tonight or tomorrow and report my results.
Is there a 10ft cable known to reliably work?
After reading through it 2-3 times, I have a few minor suggestions (don't take them as criticisms, only suggestions from the viewpoint of someone who has had several different models before settling on the JS9000):
- JS8500 is listed twice under the Assumptions/Disclaimers sectionMinor typo.
- I realize that this guide was made using the JS9000 but I would mention that that the JU6500/6700 do not come with the One Connect box; all inputs are on the back of the TV (so that people aren't expecting otherwise or think they're missing something). Also, the JU7100/7500 come with the smaller One Connect Mini while the JS8500/9000 come with the full size One Connect box (not sure about the JS7000 as it's kind of the oddball of the entire lineup)
- You did a good job explaining the difference between PC mode and Game mode. It might be beneficial to newcomers to include the two popular 4:4:4 test images so that people can verify 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 as they're following your guide, and tell them what to expect the images to look like when they are and aren't in full 4:4:4 mode.
- AMP was briefly mentioned in a later post; maybe add it into the main guide as it's commonly used as a third "mode" (PC, Game, AMP) by some of us when we want maximum fluidity and smoothness at the expense of input lag. Some might not see your other post and assume that it's not beneficial (or can't be used) when gaming.
- Include Cyph's window resize fix, as several of us have been affected by the window resizing/repositioning issue.
Again, nice job!
Is there a 10ft cable known to reliably work?
What am I doing wrong here? I have a 48" 6500 and it ALWAYS looks washed out in any configuration I try unless I crush the hell out of the blacks one way or another, turning down brightness below 30 or setting the GPU to 0-255 and the display to 16-235. I have to choose between washed out or crushed blacks.
Zarathustra[H];1041769686 said:I have heard the 6xxx has less saturated colors than the other models, but the differences should be minor. I found my JS9000 to be very over saturated, until I got used to it, so something is definitely wrong here.
Have you looked at the chroma test image to verify that you are in 444?
Okay so here's an interesting update:
Turns out setting my GPU to FULL and my display to LOW is in fact not clipping due to a mismatched range setting. It only seems that way because brightness at 50 is too low. With FULL-LOW I can turn the brightness up to around 60 and see the 1-15 black levels and NOT have a washed out image.
Either the calibration guide is wrong, and FULL-NORMAL settings are in fact not correctly matched, or there's something wonky with my setup. All I know is that with FULL-LOW and the brightness at 60 I lose the washed-out appearance and still keep all my black levels.
Zarathustra[H];1041770263 said:Hmm, now my model is different (JS9000) and I haven't calibrated it, but Full-Normal looks great, and I left the picture settings in PC Mode at default, as they looked perfect.
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I get brilliant colors, and no black compression.
I found messing with the Brightness setting to be a bad idea. Changing it from 45 really messed with the color and black levels for me.
In Game mode - however - things look awful, unless I turn down Sharpness to 0.
Did you make sure to update your firmware to the very latest version? I do recall reading that in some older versions of the firmware there were problems with RGB modes, which is why the first version of this guide recommended YCbCr444 mode in the Nvidia control panel instead.
Yeah, I updated firmware from 1204 to 1221, can't really see a difference. Can you try this for me?
Set your GPU output range to FULL and your display to black level LOW. This should be a mis-matched configuration and your blacks should be clipped. Now crank up your brightness. Regardless of how bright and washed out your display gets you should not be able to differentiate boxes 1-15 from the background of 0 even at 100%. They should be clipped.
Or another way to check, on the Lagom black test, when you switch from LOW to NORMAL black levels on the display, does the black (0) background get less black in NORMAL? It should not change. The black background should be the same black in LOW or NORMAL. If it's not the same then FULL/NORMAL is not 0-255/0-255 and they are not therefore a correct config match.
Right?
Hi Z-Great article and write up. thanks. Just to clarify-for game mode, I would assume that you want to set the HDMi Black level to normal as you mention to in PC mode? Game mode has HDMI black at auto via Samsung's default setting. Just wanted to clarify. Thanks!
I also see some inconsistent results on my JS9000 in win7 with GTX780's.
Some hdmi ports with different mode settings result in the TV being detected differently by windows and nvidia. Something seems a bit goofy as it always overscales even at 3840x2160, and I believe it's causing some issues with games at 60hz. Like it's trying to push too many pixels at that res and can't. Things stutter like crazy (only when SLI is enabled). It must be driver issues. Would be great for nvidia to get ahead of it and start supporting 4k better![]()
Zarathustra[H];1041782860 said:Also, some of your problems might be due to using a 780. The 780 does not have HDMI 2.0 (Only 900 series do, and possibly some Intel Skylake IGP's). Without HDMI 2.0, the results will be unpredictable. You might be able to get it to work reasonably, or you might have odd problems, but you will never get 60hz at 4:4:4 chroma. You will have to choose between either lowered chroma, or running at 30hz instead of 60.
Which is frustrating considering the DP 1.2 standard supports 4:4:4 @ 60hz..
Which is frustrating considering the DP 1.2 standard supports 4:4:4 @ 60hz..
Zarathustra[H];1041783329 said:Yeah, I know it is too bad, but these TV's don't have DP ports, and passive adapters don't work. You'd need an active adapter, and that would introduce more input lag.
Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever seen a TV with a DP input![]()
Do you happen to overclock your video card? I know I had that happened when my 980TI's were unstable due to overclock. As the card heat up, voltage leak occurred and my HDMI signal went away and sometimes it totally reboot the TV on signal loss. Since settling on a mild OC (1450) at stock voltage, I've not seen that happen since.
Just food for thought, I got a replacement monitor and am trying to check for bad pixels and a good screen.
Maybe link some test images so people can test if there monitor is 100% perfect?
I love your setup, i wish i could afford such thingbut seriously, is it healthy for your eyes to stay that close to this monster?