I have a Win10/Ubuntu/MacOS multiboot UEFI system. Recently my GTX 680 died and I replaced it with GTX 1070. Everything is fine, except the DVI output doesn't work during the boot up and in Windows and MacOS, but it works in Ubuntu, weirdly enough. Currently I'm using one of the DisplayPorts. I...
Sorry, I have to resurrect the thread one more time. I've been trying to solve a certain problem for a couple of weeks now and I was wondering if you could help. Understandably, things are rather slow at the official forums, so maybe I'll have better luck here.
I've played SoC with mods before...
I'll try to fill in. Basically, just to enjoy entertainment and web content, the factory settings on most pro and semi-pro monitors should be absolutely enough. In some cases you may need manual calibration, adjusting color temperature, primaries, gamma and such, but only that, no ICC profiling.
Yes, by "internal LUT" I basically meant "programmable internal LUT". Anyway, that's exactly my point: only pro models have programmable LUT and i1Profiler is pretty much useless for calibrating such monitors, if you want to fully benefit from high-end capabilities. I imagine nobody buys 1300...
Just to be clear: There is ABSOLUTELY no way the native i1Pro software (i1Profiler) can interact with the internal LUT of this particular monitor (or any other monitor, for that matter), did I get it correctly?
And if I did, one may wonder what's the point of such software. I mean, those who...
OK, I had really hard time explaining to my boss why such an expensive piece of hardware needs extra investments in order to make it properly work. I went on about internal LUT and hardware calibration, but he doesn't seem to be convinced.
So for now let's stick to free solutions, please. I'm...
We have about a dozen of these monitors at work, they are about 1.5-2 years old and none of them has ever been calibrated. A couple of weeks ago we purchased i1Pro spectrophotometer in order to calibrate and profile them. None of us at work are really experienced in this area, although I have a...
OK, I got it. For some reason, I thought that calibrating the device was a separate thing, but now I see it's a part of the process: the device has to be calibrated before each measurement. Seems logical.
I found it already. The button turned out to be located physically on the device. As for the calibration, it was under "Display Profiling Workflow > Measurement"
For certain reasons, I didn't want to start the profiling process right away, just wanted to calibrate the device.
The topic is not directly related to displays, but I think this is the best place to post my question. I apologize beforehand in case I'm wrong.
The device in question is unused, so the manual says to calibrate it first:
I have installed the i1Profiler, the device is connected and sits on...
Well, there's always a chance that the replacement monitor could turn out to be even worse. But also there's a chance that it could turn out to be just perfect. It's really hard to say for sure. I guess the question here is this: Does the issue bother you to the point that you might be willing...
As pointed out by a previous poster, print screen images won't show any actual tinting issues. That's because print screen captures only what system sends to the display, but not what the display actually shows.
But the camera shots may also be misguiding for us, because the camera adds its own...
Well, if the pink tint is clearly distinguishable for the naked eye, then it's a well enough reason for a replacement, methinks.
Yes, there is a chance that that the replacement unit might have the same issue or something even worse. Also, I've heard that Dell has a bad habit of sending...
Don't return anything.
Saturation just highlights the unevenness of the colors captured by the camera. It has nothing to do with the actual quality of your display.
If you don't see any heavily apparent unevenness with your naked eye, that means there isn't any. Simple as that.
For some reason, your image is greyscale. The photo needs to be RGB. You can't change saturation of greyscale images. Because there is no color in them.
If the white is uneven to the point that it would have to be returned, you'll be able to see it without any extra "mojo". If you don't see any unevenness right away, I would advise to stop looking for problems and enjoy your unit.
If you still wish to make sure, it's always the best to use a...
This is an interesting thread, and here's why: For the first time in a long while, I have so many usability issues with a newly released Windows that I'm already starting looking forward to the next version, trying to imagine how those issues could possibly be addressed. And I see that I'm not...
Nothing terribly important, but still, I was used to it and now, like tons of other things, it seems to have disappeared.
I've searched the "Program Events" list in the Sounds tab up and down, but I don't see anything like "Empty Recycle Bin". However, the sound itself is present in the...
That's the question: Do I, really? Because when I'm listening to 5.1 sources, I really don't hear any difference when turning the CMSS 3D off. I'm not saying there is no difference, I just don't hear it. Is there any test or something allowing to tell if there's any difference? Like comparing...
Terribly sorry for digging up an old thread, but I have the same question, still with no definitive answer.
First, CMSS 3D sounds a lot better (bolder, more voluminous) than Dolby Pro Logic II (at least to my dilettante's ear). I'm not necessarily saying it sounds more correct, just...
Amazon.de only has used ones left, but I've found new ones on Pixmania, for around 297 LTL, which is roughly $170. Not exactly the deal of the century, but it will do.
Thanks everyone! You've been a tremendous [H]elp. :)
If the picture really shows the CA20K2 chip, then it contradicts the Wikipedia info indicating that the standard Titanium, not Titanium HD, is based on EMU20K2. But either way is fine with me.
Since I also have no idea what to make of that SBX, I probably should stick to the good old CMSS...
According to Wikipedia, the Titanium is based on EMU20K2, so it's definitely "real" X-Fi. And since Amazon.de usually doesn't sell fake crap, it looks like the way to go.
I suspected there was something wrong, because the Xtreme uses the drivers that are different from the rest of the X-Fi family. Thanks for clearing that up!
X-Fi Titanium HD looks like it should do the trick (and it should make a good companion for my THX certified Z-5500 speakers), although the price of 179.99 stings a bit.
What about the Titanium PCI-Express? No THX, but it surely costs a lot less (around 50).
Thanks for the responses, people. Let me say one thing though: If you're addicted to CMSS upmix, like myself, there's really no choice but Creative. So, let's focus on that, shall we? :P