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You can switch AHCI on after the fact. Google "AHCI registry edit" .

Pretty happy with the Netgear R6300. Bought it, it updated the firmware to the latest version, and now my wi-fi signal is about 3 times as strong as it was on the 3400 I had before. Plus it's pretty sleek too :P

About watercooling 680s... Mine idled at about 30*C under air and ramped up to 60*C or so under load. Under water? 30*C idle and 35*C under load. Dead silent. Granted, my system has about 2 grand worth of water cooling parts in it, but hey, you said you had an unlimited budget, right?

Maybe the Force GTs had problems at some point, but I've successfully used about half a dozen of them in various builds including my current machine without a single issue. Just my .02 worth.

I dunno folks. I'm running a single D5, two 680s, a full cover mobo block and a CPU block with 2 480 rads, and I"m overclocked to 4.5ghz. GPUs run about 32*C under load and the CPU hits about 45*C - with 4 GT AP15s per rad. I'd say that's about all the performance I need. I could easily fit...

I've never seen the allure of nickel plating, so I when I put the WC system together I used all EK copper + acetal blocks. NOT the hideous CSQ stuff though. I agree their new stuff looks like something you'd see in a mid 60's James Bond movie, and not in a good way.

Panaflos are insanely loud. Gentle Typhoons, not so much.

Why can't Coolermaster make cases like that any more? The ATC series cases were just works of art.

I'm using Gelid GC-Extreme on my CPU, GPU, and MB blocks. I think it's one of the best thermal compounds out there in terms of performance.

Trust me, I've had systems with Deltas at 100% that I ran for years. I know "jet engine at take-off" levels of fan noise. Playing BF3 with essentially ZERO noise is definitely the way to go :D

I've been very happy with the XSPC fans I've used for case fans in addition to my GT AP15s for the rads. They're quiet and flow a ton of air.

The nice thing about the Aquaero is you can set it to basically turn the LCD contrast and brightness down to zero after a timeout period. Trust me, the ability to see what your temps are by hitting a couple of buttons on the front is addictive :)

That is, most assuredly, NOT an ATC-110.

Seconding just using distilled water with a silver killcoil. And forget about dye. Seriously. It looks cool, but the crap it deposits in all your blocks, pump and tubing is NOT cool when it breaks down. And it WILL break down, no matter what dye proponents will tell you. Just grab some...

I went EK with all my blocks save the GPU, but I went copper. I liked the design of their RIVE block which is why I went with it instead of one of the others. Their CSQ 680 block, however, is A W F U L. Inlet/outlet on the same side and 70's retro styling? No thank you. I went with the EVGA...

I used the Aquaero 5 Pro USB, which doesn't have the remote in the package or programmable touch buttons on the front. The LT is essentially the same guts as the Pro and XT, it just doesn't have a display or IR for the remote. I recommend getting the Pro, the display is nice to have. I added...

Running my whole system off an Aquaero 5 Pro. If you have the patience to configure it, the AQ5 is really the only way to go. It has virtually unlimited expandability too, if you manage to exceed the basic unit's capabilities.

Really wanted the AQ5 and flow meter from the original post, but when you didn't respond, I had to go retail :( Bump anyway. Good luck with your sale.

Well, I've been running my RIVE with an i7 3820, a full water cooling setup and a GTX580 Classified Ultra 3gb for a couple months with my HX1000w with zero problems. Since the 680 uses less juice, I'd imagine you'll be cake and pie.

I've got the UT60 480 rad in my loop, and I'm really impressed with it. I'm probably going to add the new "Monsta" 480 they have that is a truly ridiculous 80mm deep to the PSU side of the case. Hey, what's the point of having a TH10 if I don't fill it up with ludicrous hardware?

I used the preview of Windows 8. It's awful. A W F U L. Like, "makes Vista look good" awful.

Seriously, there has to be a major obstruction in your loop somewhere. There is no way you're that high in temps with a D5 and two 360s.

PM sent.

PSU is an area where you really don't want to go budget. A Corsair AX1200 or Seasonic X-1250 would be my choice if you ever plan to go dual 690.

Stick with boards with UEFI if you ever intend to use a HDD >= 3 TB.

Update: Made a few changes to the build. Here's what I went with: Rad: 2x Alphacool UT60 480 Full copper - low restriction and it's essentially all copper. Good review from Skinneelabs. Case: Caselabs TH10 CPU Block: EK Supreme HF Acetal: Went copper without the nickel coating. Mobo...

They actually make their power supplies.

Asus's BIOS team is, in a word, unbeatable. Plus the MSI board really doesn't appeal to me with the "Look at me, I'm Rambo" heatsinks.

If they went after WoW, I'd have to go after them "end of Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back" style. These guys are such tools, they make douchebags uncomfortable.

Option X: Save your money and buy a Caselabs TH10? :D

EVGA, simply put, KICKS ASS.

Honestly, the software on the M90 is terribad, and the sensor in the Cyborgs is about 100% more likely to fail than another Razer. Get a Naga Epic, I did. It's KIND of different :)

I would probably go with a Seasonic X-850, if you're going with an 850w PSU. It might be 209.99(with free shipping), but Seasonic actually makes their power supplies, as well as most of the good power supplies out there with other manufacturers' badges slapped on them. Either that or a...

I've been wondering that myself.

Legos.

Considering I have a friend who owns a computer store who once got in 3 cases of ASRock motherboards of the same model. Out of like 36 boards, 8 were DOA. That's over a 20% failure rate. On the flipside, I helped him do about 50 builds with the same model Asus mobo. Guess how many DOAs we...

I'm going to add the GPUs to the loop after Kepler comes out, so I think I'll go with the 655. The problem I have with the Raystorm block is it has been getting generally awful reviews about its mounting system. I'll take it with a grain of salt, though. I'll have to check into the Black Ice rad.

After a few suggestions, I think I'm going to up the fitting size to 3/8"x5/8" and go with an EK D5 res top/655 combo. Glad to hear the silver coil works, it just seems so much more elegant and worry-free than additives.

I was looking hard at the Mountain Mods stuff. Then I stumbled across Caselabs. Yeah, complete direction change. The fact that you can remove the front, top, and both side panels toolless makes for easy custom painting of the outside.

The TH10 can do 4 480 rads in the top and bottom, 2 horizontally, and one in the front. So I think I'm cake for expandability :). In the options for the Monsoon you can add a D5 to it, which I would definitely use. The other option is going with a D5 with an EK 140 pump top (which, the more I...