LG Ultragear 27" OLED 240hz 1440P 27GR95QE-B

I guess I'm using HDR afterall I can turn down my Nvidia control panel settings just a notch and HDR in Deadspace remake is pretty amazing then.
I didn't like it at first because the contrast was too great too bright in spots and too dark in other spots but it really makes stuff jump off the screen.
I'm still trying to get used to the monitor having some eye issues at work I think it's just like breaking in a new pair of glasses I'll get used to it eventually.
I got a screenshot of the Win Alt B shortcut that Blur Buster Chief pointed out so I don't forget it.

HDR in Hogwarts looks amazing and so does Darktide but couldn't find a game so I didn't start one. I never owned a monitor with HDR so this is a real treat in no way is the monitor too dark if anything it's too bright with HDR 100 percent and Nvidia setting at default so I have Nvidias gamma down to 80 and 50B 45C.
 
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Also, about text clarity -- take a look at the fringing thread, and the solutions that are being worked on.

What text clarity or fringing? 🙃
20230221_153756[1].jpg



With MacType everything looks as lovely as on old CRT powered eMac and readable from the other part of the room without need for any scaling 🤩
 
I tried it and I see a little bit of the shifting for the black and white sections if I move it quickly, but I tried the same thing on my laptop (which uses a traditional LCD) and it did the same thing, so I don't think that's what you mean, and I'm honestly not sure what I'm looking for. Didn't try adjusting brightness because this is where I keep brightness (and HDR brightness is higher), so there'd be no point if I can't see it at this brightness as it shouldn't really ever be set any dimmer in real-world use.

I'm just reporting my real-world experience being overall very pleasant. There is no doubt this, and any monitor, has its flaws. But overall I'm really enjoying it and think it was a good choice for me.
You might actually have a good point there - why worry about flaws at settings which are not those which you would want to use...

I myself noticed this near black overshoot issue at "manual burn-in prevention" settings like lowered brightness and at settings I actually like image the most (read 100% brightness and maybe even in "vivid" mode...) its really hard to spot even in perfect cases where such issue can be observed and in 99.99% other cases not visible at all..

BTW. Since you got the monitor you might check and maybe try something: on LG 48gq900 default contrast is 60 but actual contrast that is 100% and does not cause any clipping is 70 ! It might be the same for LG 27gr95qe and so you might get extra brightness if that is the case.

To check clipping you can use this image http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
On my monitor as soon as I hit contrast 71 it obviously starts clipping and white background stops becoming brighter so its 70 which is true limit.
Same image can be used on any monitor to find proper contrast setting as like in case of 48gq900 some other monitors also have default contrast incorrectly configured... though in this case LG might have just lowered contrast a little on purpose.

BTW2. On my monitor in HDR there is less auto-dimming than in SDR. For example no auto-dimming of full white screen. It might be some kind of solution to this issue if your monitor behaves similarly. That said I prefer SDR mode and it seems its best to enable HDR only for games and only for those which actually look better in HDR mode which is not given.
 
I guess I'm using HDR afterall I can turn down my Nvidia control panel settings just a notch and HDR in Deadspace remake is pretty amazing then.
I didn't like it at first because the contrast was too great too bright in spots and too dark in other spots but it really makes stuff jump off the screen.
I'm still trying to get used to the monitor having some eye issues at work I think it's just like breaking in a new pair of glasses I'll get used to it eventually.
I got a screenshot of the Win Alt B shortcut that Blur Buster Chief pointed out so I don't forget it.

HDR in Hogwarts looks amazing and so does Darktide but couldn't find a game so I didn't start one. I never owned a monitor with HDR so this is a real treat in no way is the monitor too dark if anything it's too bright with HDR 100 percent and Nvidia setting at default so I have Nvidias gamma down to 80 and 50B 45C.

HDR can be really amazing; it does take some getting used to though! The HDR in Dead Space looks great to me, but it does take a bit of getting used to because there's so much contrast! Neat that you dialed in some settings that made it more appealing to you.

I started Atomic Heart last night, which doesn't support HDR as of now (I guess you can sort of enabled it in the .ini settings but I'll wait to see if they're official support), but it still looked fantastic. It looked downright beautiful, actually. There are some really bright scenes, and I was surprised that I simply could not trigger any noticeable ABL at all. (This is in the Calibrated mode that was calibrated to sRGB and I use for prettymuch everything SDR-related).
 
You might actually have a good point there - why worry about flaws at settings which are not those which you would want to use...

I myself noticed this near black overshoot issue at "manual burn-in prevention" settings like lowered brightness and at settings I actually like image the most (read 100% brightness and maybe even in "vivid" mode...) its really hard to spot even in perfect cases where such issue can be observed and in 99.99% other cases not visible at all..

BTW. Since you got the monitor you might check and maybe try something: on LG 48gq900 default contrast is 60 but actual contrast that is 100% and does not cause any clipping is 70 ! It might be the same for LG 27gr95qe and so you might get extra brightness if that is the case.

To check clipping you can use this image http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
On my monitor as soon as I hit contrast 71 it obviously starts clipping and white background stops becoming brighter so its 70 which is true limit.
Same image can be used on any monitor to find proper contrast setting as like in case of 48gq900 some other monitors also have default contrast incorrectly configured... though in this case LG might have just lowered contrast a little on purpose.

BTW2. On my monitor in HDR there is less auto-dimming than in SDR. For example no auto-dimming of full white screen. It might be some kind of solution to this issue if your monitor behaves similarly. That said I prefer SDR mode and it seems its best to enable HDR only for games and only for those which actually look better in HDR mode which is not given.

Yeah - flaws definitely matter, but if it only occurs in conditions I'll never see, they're more academic than practical, so I try not to worry about them. It is an interesting phenomenon for sure, though.

I did check - sRGB mode defaults to 70 for contrast, and it doesn't show for Calibration 1 where I calibrated to sRGB, but the Onscreen Control does show a value, and that's 70 also.
Interestingly, in HDR, Gamer 1 is 60 and Gamer 2 is 55 and they are not modifiable (again, seen through Onscreen Control - you can try to change them but it won't stick)>

I looked at those patterns and it's very difficult to see squares on the brightest (and I tried the dark one too; likewise with the darkest) but I think I can JUST notice it, so I think it's where it should be.

It does seem like Gamer mode in HDR dims a *little* but it's not at all dramatic, much less so than most SDR modes. (I tested this by creating a full-white window, and expanding it to fill the screen, then reducing it to see if it brightened). Interestingly, Gamer mode in SDR doesn't dim at all, but it seems like it's the exception. All other SDR modes seem to dim (including the Calibration mode).

That said, I have yet to notice, in SDR or HDR games, any dimming behavior - either it's so subtle I haven't been able to see it or something about the game prevents it from having to happen. I was very surprised given some of the bright scenes in Atomic Heart I didn't notice at least a little.
 
What text clarity or fringing? 🙃
Text clarity (aka better ClearType) and yellow fringing. Both are actually related.
https://hardforum.com/threads/oled-yellow-vertical-edge-artifacts.2025040/

I can't disclose further yet due to my NDA, but you can deduce some of it by reading that fringing thread. You'll be surprised at what I discovered can be done with the existing pixel structure, with my Blur Busters brilliance -- I've worked on variants of subpixel rendering for 20 years.

And excellent photograph -- that's exactly what I wanted. I'm unable to reproduce on my OLED as the overdrive is tuned very differently on my DVT prototype.

I will begin trying to create a test pattern that amplifies this behavior (to try and make it visible on bigger numbers of OLEDs).

*** EDIT TO ADD MORE INFO ***

Note: All the below is based on public information. It's an oversimplification, but in a nutshell, if you at least graduated High School electricity class, you'll understand at least some of the below.

OLED panels also use some overdrive algorithms, but they can be tuned (although not visible to end user menus).

Let's remember.... digital screens are giant ICs nowadays (either lithographed or printed ICs) due to their active matrix transistor fabrication, often at two or more transistors per subpixel. Trying to drive massive amounts of electricity down tiny microwire grids sometimes a billion micrometers down the screen panels. OLED pixels require massive amounts more electricity than LCD pixels -- several orders of magnitude more, like powering a candle versus a searchlight. Realtime voltage/amperage modulation to compensate for everything (current power load on the row-addressor from adjacent pixels, combined with microwire distances) is the norm by emissive panel manufacturers nowadays, regardless of low-voltage emissive tech (OLED uLED, etc). Artifacts are unavoidable when Ohm's Law (E=IR) at low-voltage at high power over a long microwire, with totally different different numbers for the leftmost pixel versus rightmost pixel, and for topmost pixel versus bottommost pixel. Tricks like realtime current compensated / voltage gradients (on a per pixel basis) are utilized by all MicroLED / OLED manufacturers to compensate for this. Panels pull off so many engineering miracles to avoid crosstalk (streaking or darkfield noise/banding effects or weird row-specific dimmings, turning it all into global dimming instead of weird 1980s-TN-LCD-rainstorm-streaky look), but you can only polish the law of physics as much as you can.

Any OLED, both Samsung and LG, are fighting a gigantic engineering battle, in a matter of speaking.

Panel imperfections, alas, are going to continue for MicroLED, MiniLED, WOLED, QD-OLED, to varying extents, etc. How visible it becomes depends on a horrendous large number of things. Flaws are pick poison effects. You fix one flaw, it creates a side-effect flaw (sometimes not discovered for weeks). It's not very difficult for OLEDs to out-fix most LCD flaws, though well-tuned strobed LCD still has the upper hand in motion blur due to shorter pulse width capability.
 
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Hogwarts Legacy has one of the some of the most complex HDR sliders I ever seen in a game you can change the white point and black levels but didn't post a screenshot cause I'm in a gloomy part of the game indoors.
 
Nice! Yeah - Cyberpunk 2077 has similar settings; a bunch you can adjust. I ended up looking up a guide to help me figure it out. It's nice that you can kind of tailor it to your display type tho'!
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..

I looked at those patterns and it's very difficult to see squares on the brightest (and I tried the dark one too; likewise with the darkest) but I think I can JUST notice it, so I think it's where it should be.
Exactly. 254 should be very hard to see on white (255) background.

On 48gq900 contrast defaults to 60 in all modes and in all SDR modes can be changed.
Also in SRGB it is possible to adjust whitepoint using RGB vaues which I find very nice. On 27gp900 I could not do that... at least using official methods.

BTW. Which calibration probe you used to color calibrate your OLED monitor?
Also would you say it did good job?
I tried obsolete i1 Display 2 I had on hand with LG 27gp950 but it produced unworkable results. Didn't try it on 48gq900 and I probably shouldn't... gotta get proper calibration probe for these monitors
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..


Exactly. 254 should be very hard to see on white (255) background.

On 48gq900 contrast defaults to 60 in all modes and in all SDR modes can be changed.
Also in SRGB it is possible to adjust whitepoint using RGB vaues which I find very nice. On 27gp900 I could not do that... at least using official methods.

BTW. Which calibration probe you used to color calibrate your OLED monitor?
Also would you say it did good job?
I tried obsolete i1 Display 2 I had on hand with LG 27gp950 but it produced unworkable results. Didn't try it on 48gq900 and I probably shouldn't... gotta get proper calibration probe for these monitors

Yup - I think the blacks and whites are looking correct on those patterns.

I believe the probe I used was XRite i1 Display Pro Plus - I was able to borrow it since I don't have one here. I liked the results I got; I should say, though, I didn't use a more detailed calibration tool - I just ran it through the quick and dirty LG Calibration Studio, but I was happy with the results. Once nicety - once you calibrate one of the Calibration modes, it then lists the Brightness recommendation for the nits you set it to (you can deviate manually, but it'll always show "reference" value), the gamma setting, and the color temp (weirdly not color space).
 


Overall, a great review with some interesting information! (I still think text looks quite good but I've concluded I just must not be super sensitive to that.)
 
I couldn't find anything in the picture book instructions except the monitor weighs about 11lbs going to get a Vesa stand for this thing that will lower the monitor 3-4 inches for readablity.
I think it's a vesa monitor the back has screws in the back covers the holes so I hope the stand I bought off Amazon works with it. The stand it comes with is pretty good but it just doesn't go low evough for me I have about 5 1/2 inches of space on the bottom want it down to like 3" or just so the Audio aux cable fits in for the PS5 sound.

I was going to get a back up Displayport cable but reading the instructions says it might cause a malfunction I know that is hard to believe but it might.


Alot of the problems I see with Human Beings trying to adapt to oversize screens comes from how the eye looses it's ablity to track on the screen.
This might just be me but I see people buying these 87" inch TVs which is just a big hazing experiment if you ask me. I don't think the eye was meant to be pryed open for hours on end
and have some sort of comfort level afterwards or while binging on Netflix or whatever.
 
Microsoft made ClearType for RGB and it shows when trying to use it with anything else. There should be more configuration options and ability to configure custom subpixel structures, also including automatically switching for vertical subpixels when display is rotated.There should also be non-subpixel grayscale fallback. Once you rotate your RGB display its nice text rendering becomes a mess comparable to how it looks on WOLED.
Agreed.

Microsoft needs to make ClearType more compatible with nonstandard pixel structures. Nontheless, workarounds are in the works, though I can't say if it applies to current displays (firmware) or next display. In theory, a Windows indirect display driver (or a ReShade filter) could do a subpixel-aware downscaling of a higher resolution image to a subpixel-compensated lower resolution image. There are some tricky considerations like direct Windows control of the subpixels, but subpixel rendering can work on any pixel structure in theory -- as long as both ends are designed for it (display and OS).

Apple' OSX has an edge here with their grayscale non-subpixel option which will look good on any non-standard display. Its similar actually to what I did with MacType and it looks very good. For reference with RGB panel Mactype looks perfect and ClearType looks meh..
Apple's greyscale definitely looks better than Microsoft's greyscale, but if you display Apple vs Windows at the same low DPI (not the typical "Retina" mac screens) on the same display, for the same physical text sizes... then ClearType (on proper RGB or BGR displays) can look better.

For many (not all) people the Windows ClearType can look better on RGB LCDs than Mac grayscale on the same panels, if retuned by a ClearType Tuner. In apples-vs-apples (pun!) properly tuned ClearType outperforms both PC/Mac greyscale when PC/Mac is connected to the very exact same display in an A/B comparison.

Now that being said, greyscale mode is temporarily the best workaround for the moment, and for that, Mac on these OLEDs looks good.

It's a matter of personal preference whether you want subpixel rendering or not, but I really like subpixel rendering.
 
I believe the probe I used was XRite i1 Display Pro Plus - I was able to borrow it since I don't have one here. I liked the results I got; I should say, though, I didn't use a more detailed calibration tool - I just ran it through the quick and dirty LG Calibration Studio, but I was happy with the results. Once nicety - once you calibrate one of the Calibration modes, it then lists the Brightness recommendation for the nits you set it to (you can deviate manually, but it'll always show "reference" value), the gamma setting, and the color temp (weirdly not color space).
I bought this probe and just finished playing with it on LG 48GQ900 with very good results.

I have few reference monitors HP DreamColor LP2480zx and two different HP branded probes for them and today on OLED got pretty much identical whitepoint and RGB primaries. Full success. Now I only need to hardware calibrate LG 27GP950 and I am all set 😃

One thing I intend to do is to check measurements and recalibrate OLED form time to time eg. once in six months.
For IPS with W-LED backlight monitor its calibrate once and forget kind of thing but OLED might drift over time. At least whitepoint might drift.
 
Microsoft needs to make ClearType more compatible with nonstandard pixel structures. Nontheless, workarounds are in the works, though I can't say if it applies to current displays (firmware) or next display. In theory, a Windows indirect display driver (or a ReShade filter) could do a subpixel-aware downscaling of a higher resolution image to a subpixel-compensated lower resolution image. There are some tricky considerations like direct Windows control of the subpixels, but subpixel rendering can work on any pixel structure in theory -- as long as both ends are designed for it (display and OS).
Is it even possible to apply shaders for desktop in Windows?

Imho MacType solution is better...

Apple's greyscale definitely looks better than Microsoft's greyscale, but if you display Apple vs Windows at the same low DPI (not the typical "Retina" mac screens) on the same display, for the same physical text sizes... then ClearType (on proper RGB or BGR displays) can look better.

For many (not all) people the Windows ClearType can look better on RGB LCDs than Mac grayscale on the same panels, if retuned by a ClearType Tuner. In apples-vs-apples (pun!) properly tuned ClearType outperforms both PC/Mac greyscale when PC/Mac is connected to the very exact same display in an A/B comparison.
... unless someone wants hinting.
I saw OSX when playing with hackintoshes and its font rendering was the only thing I liked. On Vista on the other hand ClearType was atrocious and I hacked it out.
Then I found GDI++ and use it since then. Imean later there was ezgdi and now it is MacType - all use original GDI++ concept.

Now that being said, greyscale mode is temporarily the best workaround for the moment, and for that, Mac on these OLEDs looks good.
I use MacType and it covers most programs I use. Didn't really investigate issues in programs which use DirectWrite yet... and really text is visible so its not big issue. If I had color fringing in web browser or something then it would be an issue. MacType with disabled subpixel rendering looks like OSX rendering but even nicer.

It's a matter of personal preference whether you want subpixel rendering or not, but I really like subpixel rendering.
I would say its a matter of having it work properly. Obviously for most OLEDs it doesn't work correctly.
But even on RGB panels it is not guaranteed it works ideally because gamut correction like sRGB emulation will negatively affect subpixel rendering. In this case its usually such a minor issue it doesn't matter but still.
I too prefer subpixel rendering. I do not however like ClearType and its hinting ways...
 
814529_IMG_20230225_075823344.jpg

Confirmed any LG remote works with this monitor just picked up a LG remote from Walmart for 15.00 just press TV go Menu and you can select anything. Best part about it uses AAA batteries which I have rechargeable ones for. There were cheaper one they had ones that looked nicer like the Vizio ones. I suppose I could buy one of each take them back if they don't work.
 
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Above video takes it apart reason why I won't use the led lights just cheap strips like store bought colored led strips which are just nasty. Shows the fan inside too which is just noise but tolerable. Can't wait to get my Vesa stand.
 
Is it even possible to apply shaders for desktop in Windows?
Yes.

<Software Developer Technical>

AFAIK, SpecialK / ReShade / SweetFX / can hook into Windows and modify its screen, if you're running windowed or borderless windowed. Program your custom shader, even a ClearType-fixing shader if you want. Be noted, it can be tricky to reverse engineer whatever pixel processing the panel uses, and create custom distorted pixels to adapt rendering to a different pixel structure. Easiest may be a shader that accepts a bitmask of the pixel structure, and processes to its best ability while downscaling (e.g. 4K -> 1080p or 2880p->1440p). Use 200% DPI scaling. Then you ClearType everything to a custom pixel structure programmed in a shader.

DesktopBFI app uses a different technique that is not as reliable (unless Launch in Admin Mode -> Task Manager -> REALTIME PRIORITY) but a similar technique to that app can screencapture and realtime-reprocess for displaying on a 2nd screen, if you do the 2-screen technique (main display and pixel-reprocessed display).

A third technique is modifying Windows' DDK indirect display driver (normally for 60Hz USB displays) and creating a universal display filter. While the author of SpecialK and others are aiming to do something similar (within a few years probably), I am currently privately offering a 4-figure open source bounty for a display driver harness (MIT or Apache permissive license type) of a windows indirect display driver, because a Windows IDD can simulate VRR via my TestUFO interpolation algorithm on a non-VRR display in a similar manner to www.testufo.com/vrr -- as well as doing BFI much more reliably than the current open source DesktopBFI -- Or doing software-based LCD overdrive superior to the scaler/TCON LCD overdrive. And, if you would like to modify the Windows DDK and collect an open source bounty, send me an email to mark [at] blurbusters.com ...

Note: Software overdrive, aka ATI Radeon Overdrive from 20 years ago, is simple. But you can do better than the display hardware by having your own display-lottery-specific overdrive lookup table specific for your display. Attach an Arduino photodiode tester, measure all the GtG's for all 65536-256 transitions (65280), math the correct overdrive lookup table into a 64 kilobyte LUT, and use a shader to A(B)=C in realtime every refresh cycle, independent of framerate, where A=orig subpixel intensity, B=dest subpixel intensity, and C=overdrive subpixel intensity to intentionally speedup or slowdown A->B pixel transition. (That's all overdrive is, color intensity maps to voltages, so you can do it in 100% shader), though slownes occurs at near fullblacks and near fullwhites, due to lack of overdrive overshoot headroom -- which is why ghosting occurs more often in nearblacks and nearwhites).

The same shader-plugin-capable windows indirect display driver would be able to also do custom subpixel systems via downscaling technique. Ideally it should be done at display firmware level, but at least there's a software route possible and I've posted a lot about this in the "Laboratory" section of Blur Busters Forums. It's also linked from the purple Research tab of the main website (also links to my 25 peer reviewed paper citations).

There are many open source software packages that you may be able to modify with a custom shader. Be noted limited control is available through standard means to directly control the white pixel, but you can at least control a lot of subpixels in a way similar to the other forum thread, and solve a hell lot of color fringing problems in pure software means through any of these 3 techniques:

1. frame injection hook to Present()
2. screenshot every refresh cycle, reprocess and display on 2nd screen, OR
3. windows indirect display driver (harder to debug, needs EV code signing cert to redistribute)

And if any of you do that, then please post on Blur Busters Forums' "Area 51 Display Science, Research & Engineering" near the bottom of the main forums screen if you create such an open source package, as Blur Busters definitely welcome such stuff! As I've worked on subpixel rendering algorithms for 20 years off and on, I'm loving user contributions that may compensate for panel firmware limitations.

Getting familiar with Direct 3D Kernel Mode Thunk (D3DKMT APIs) is quite useful, if doing approach (1) (2), because of all the userspace-level hooks possible, including VSYNC hooks and raster interrupt style scanline hooks! (The Tearline Jedi Demo is how I taught Guru3D to add scanline sync, and how I taught WinUAE/CLK to sync emu raster to real raster in lagless vsync algorithms). They run in userspace, which is much easier than a display driver. The open source DesktopBFI project, also uses the "D3DKMT" prefixed Windows APIs too for refresh cycle synchronization. Phase-adjusting the frame presentation processing is important as the windows compositor begins to execute after the end of the VBI, but before the next refresh cycle (an annoying phasing that adds 1 refresh cycle lag, but de-jitters a lot of desktop-based VSYNC jitter).

So timing the pixel processing at a different phase (e.g. 10% before VSYNC or 10% after VSYNC), via either raster scanline syncing, or doing RTDSC/QueryPerformanceCounter() busywaits. While this can add a few milliseconds more lag, it adds a few milliseconds of jitter safety margin to prevent things like erratic BFI flicker effects. This is sometimes a good technique to prevent erratic vsync-vs-Hz jitter (caused by reprocessing too simultaneously with desktop compositing). Plus, if using approach 3 especially on multimonitor systems, it is longtime old public advice at many sources to always use fullscreen exclusive to prevent multi-Hz weird VSYNC-blocking Present() jitter from refresh rate interference effects.

For reducing lag of man-in-middle processors, in some cases you may need to roll-your-own software based VSYNC ON clone via scanline-synced VSYNC OFF as a complex lag-reducing workaround for "man in the middle shader reprocessors" to enable reprocessing with no lag penalty, otherwise, you usually get 1 refresh cycle lag for man-in-middle frame reprocessors. Oh, and disable power management when doing realtime refresh-cycle-granularity reprocessing. I've got over a thousands hours due diligence in raster knowledge, so feel free to pick my raster brains, when programming precise frame syncers. Blur Busters is the "Present()-to-photons" expert, we know the black box inside and out.

This might be TMI in a wall of text, but I love providing more detail than necessary, to minimize headaches that so many programmers waste time on before finally figuring it out.

</Software Developer Technical>

Imho MacType solution is better...
... unless someone wants hinting.
For OLEDs currently, with current version of OLED firmwares and current version of ClearTYpe, yes you are right.

But Right Tool For Right Job. For LCD, ClearType is still better. You do have to adjust the "Contrast Ratio" before it looks better than MacType, but there is an element of personal preference involved, and there are definitely cases where people absolutely hate subpixel rendering (when perfectly optimized on an LCD).

I saw OSX when playing with hackintoshes and its font rendering was the only thing I liked. On Vista on the other hand ClearType was atrocious and I hacked it out.
Then I found GDI++ and use it since then. Imean later there was ezgdi and now it is MacType - all use original GDI++ concept.
There are people who really dislike ClearType and prefer the MacType look, so I can't blame you. However, not everyone prefers MacType over ClearType when both PC/Mac is connected to the same screen at same DPI at same text sizes -- there is a definite element of personal preference involved here too. I have a Mac here, and on an LCD apples-vs-apples at same font sizes (with good fonts), I like the ClearType rendering.

Tip: Be noted that some CSS on some websites triggers a bypass Microsoft ClearType, so don't do ClearType benchmarking using Google Chrome, without verifying if that website somehow triggered an autoswitch to google's internal subpixel rendering instead of the Windows subpixel rendering engine. It's kinda weird how it switches around -- and mighty annoying on BGR displays because Chrome's subpixel renderer is always RGB even on BGR displays. That's why some websites suddenly toggle between RGB and BGR weirdnesses (e.g. when marking copy and pasting text, as it reprints and rerenders text and suddenly seeing more/less color fringing). Annoying as bleep when I use Google Chrome on BGR displays. So benchmark in other software than Google Chrome unless you can verify whether you're using Chrome's subpixel renderer versus Windows' subpixel renderer -- they're not the same!
 
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Confirmed any LG remote works with this monitor just picked up a LG remote from Walmart for 15.00 just press TV go Menu and you can select anything. Best part about it uses AAA batteries which I have rechargeable ones for. There were cheaper one they had ones that looked nicer like the Vizio ones. I suppose I could buy one of each take them back if they don't work.

Just wanted to say appreciate the confirmation of this; great to know in case the remote ever breaks, etc.
 
Screenshot_20230226-233412_Samsung Internet.jpg

This Vesa mount totally helped my woes eyestrain feels great at work today simply by lowering the monitor about 2 1/2 inches too low is no good though I tried that and text was hard to read.
 
Screenshot_20230227-020432_Samsung Internet.jpg


One of few stands that is table mount that goes all the way down I think the VIVO stand is basically the same thing I might be wrong but comes in two colors
just like the Wali stand.
 
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I had to turn up brightness and contrast a bunch and in game otherwise I couldn't see what I was doing lol also ingame brightness Darktide is dark game by default though.
I gotta check my ingame setting game looked a little dull not sure if I have on the Highest settings enabled.
 
Where is Image cleaning can't seem to find it says it hasn't been completed thinking it might be on the OEM remote.
 
HDR Effect is my favorite preset it works and looks way better than regular HDR enabled in Win 11. The Gamer 1 and Gamer ,2 modes have some unnatural haze tint to them. Not like digital goods are unatural but has a haze to colored tint to them.
 
I think the image cleaning is mostly automatic, but there is a separate menu you can access on the OEM remote - it's the center "screen-shaped icon" right underneath the four-way arrows/select button. That'll let you have a look at those settings (Screen Move, Screen Saver, Image Cleaning, and Pixel Cleaning).
 
HDR Effect is my favorite preset it works and looks way better than regular HDR enabled in Win 11. The Gamer 1 and Gamer ,2 modes have some unnatural haze tint to them. Not like digital goods are unatural but has a haze to colored tint to them.

It's a neat effect some people really like, though it's not real HDR (it fakes it by converting SDR images over with an algorithm). Make sure if you are comparing to Win11 HDR and haven't you run the Windows HDR Calibration to make sure you're getting the best HDR picture (it's a separate free app from the app store). If accuracy matters to you, as far as HDR presets, I've found Gamer 1 to be more accurate just from eyeballing it (though 2 can be brighter and raise gamma some), and HDTVTest's recent review also determined Gamer 1 to be the more accurate setting.
 
HDR Effect is my favorite preset it works and looks way better than regular HDR enabled in Win 11. The Gamer 1 and Gamer ,2 modes have some unnatural haze tint to them. Not like digital goods are unatural but has a haze to colored tint to them.
HDR Effect is a boosted SDR mode with a wider colorspace such as DCI-P3 at higher brightness to simulate HDR.

It's similar when you use Adobe colorspace at 400nits. Welcome to SDR400.

Isn't it rather funny? At such low range with so low brightness, the clipped SDR with extended colorspace looks better than whatever inaccurate dim HDR on this monitor.
 
I get a error message that I'm running at a higher Rez than supported that it's suppose to run at 2560x1440P but the monitor is already set at that rez.
Just when I launch any game it says to close the menu but not sure how to close it. I pressed the middle button to not show this message again it might be gone now lauched Dead Space twice and it didn't show up.
 
I get a error message that I'm running at a higher Rez than supported that it's suppose to run at 2560x1440P but the monitor is already set at that rez.
Just when I launch any game it says to close the menu but not sure how to close it. I pressed the middle button to not show this message again it might be gone now lauched Dead Space twice and it didn't show up.

See this that I posted some days ago:

By the way, I did have one small issue I forgot to mention here. Some games, when set to fullscreen native resolution (2560 x 1440) trigger a screen saying the monitor is not in it's native res (it thinks it thinks it's in 4K for whatever reason). There's just a warning that pops up on the bottom you can dismiss. It's not a big deal, but it can get annoying. There are two workarounds. You can play in 2560 x 1440 Windowed Fullscreen in most games, and it doesn't trigger, or there's a little software trick here that makes it go away permanently.

See this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/c...ed_27gr95qebaus_says_resolution_is_incorrect/
(The reply for CRU tells you what to do; you're basically just removing a few 4K TV resolutions from the computer's monitor profile).

It's a simple fix and does not modify the monitor at all; only how Windows sees it to prevent that from happening. (There's also a reset executable to undo any changes.) Seems like multiple LG monitors do this, so you'd think they'd be able to sort it out in firmware, but I guess it's been around a while for certain configurations. Has something to do with the 4K downscaling feature.

This appears to be a bug with not just this monitor but other LG monitors too (I'm not sure how many). Basically, some of their 2560 x 1440 monitors support downscaling 4K from boxes that connect to TV's and don't offer this monitor's native resolution.

For whatever reason, by default, games set to the native resolution think they're in 4K sometimes when they're not. Hopefully dismissing that error worked, but if it comes back, you can either switch to Windowed Fullscreen (which doesn't appear to do that, but not all games support it) or do that reddit trick to remove the TV resolutions from Windows detection of the monitor. I did the reddit trick and haven't seen the error since.
 
See this that I posted some days ago:



This appears to be a bug with not just this monitor but other LG monitors too (I'm not sure how many). Basically, some of their 2560 x 1440 monitors support downscaling 4K from boxes that connect to TV's and don't offer this monitor's native resolution.

For whatever reason, by default, games set to the native resolution think they're in 4K sometimes when they're not. Hopefully dismissing that error worked, but if it comes back, you can either switch to Windowed Fullscreen (which doesn't appear to do that, but not all games support it) or do that reddit trick to remove the TV resolutions from Windows detection of the monitor. I did the reddit trick and haven't seen the error since.

Thanks that worked saved a screenshot from the Reddit post incase I have to do it again with a new install of Drivers or Win 11.
 
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See this that I posted some days ago:



This appears to be a bug with not just this monitor but other LG monitors too (I'm not sure how many). Basically, some of their 2560 x 1440 monitors support downscaling 4K from boxes that connect to TV's and don't offer this monitor's native resolution.

For whatever reason, by default, games set to the native resolution think they're in 4K sometimes when they're not. Hopefully dismissing that error worked, but if it comes back, you can either switch to Windowed Fullscreen (which doesn't appear to do that, but not all games support it) or do that reddit trick to remove the TV resolutions from Windows detection of the monitor. I did the reddit trick and haven't seen the error since.

Bad move this totally screwed up my games I restored it and had to reset my monitor settings I was getting flicker in games just a flashing screen.
I'll live with the Nag screen if it shows up again.
 
Bad move this totally screwed up my games I restored it and had to reset my monitor settings I was getting flicker in games just a flashing screen.
I'll live with the Nag screen if it shows up again.
Sorry to hear - that's odd. I haven't had that experience for whatever reason.
I got a bit of flashing in some games with GSync on, but disabling that (as I didn't need it for that game) seemed to resolve it.
 
It could of been the latest Nvidia driver too installed the older set it's working fine now.
 
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