What's the method of choice to refresh Windows 10?

alkemyst

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 20, 2005
Messages
307
I upgraded from 8.1 to 10 via Microsoft when they offered it for free.

I am swapping my motherboard/CPU from Gigabyte/AMD 955 to Gigabyte/Intel 2600K.

There was a method with Windows 8 where you just deleted some of the devices in device manager, rebooted and it would usually work fine. It seems like there are a hundred different ways recommended now all over google.

I have probably 200 applications on this box and if I can avoid a week of reinstalling everything (assuming that some of the programs are even still out there as my rig goes back 20+ years for some of the data / apps on it).

I have already used ShowKeyPlus to pull my original and installed keys from my current build.

If someone has a method to help automate if I need to do a full clean install, I'd appreciate the links.

Å
 
Plug it in and go.
Win 10 will cope fine.

I would uninstall anything related to your motherboard first because its less hassle than later.
And always do an OS backup before you start because no matter which method you use, there are hidden nasties.

Be aware if your OS was an OEM, not a full version, you may not be allowed to change motherboard.
ie Windows wont activate.
 
There's no need to "pull a key" from the OS install because the key that you will find is worthless. Microsoft gives digital licenses now which do not require a key.

Unfortunately because you are changing motherboards you won't be able to re-active 10. You'll have to call Microsoft and tell them you swapped boards. However, motherboards are considered the computer so they may not reactivate because you are technically changing computers and the free license is not transferable unless you upgraded a Retail activated OS. If the original 8 license is OEM or System Builders it's not transferable so neither is the 10 upgrade.
 
There's no need to "pull a key" from the OS install because the key that you will find is worthless. Microsoft gives digital licenses now which do not require a key.

Unfortunately because you are changing motherboards you won't be able to re-active 10. You'll have to call Microsoft and tell them you swapped boards. However, motherboards are considered the computer so they may not reactivate because you are technically changing computers and the free license is not transferable unless you upgraded a Retail activated OS. If the original 8 license is OEM or System Builders it's not transferable so neither is the 10 upgrade.

I swapped boards and re used the Windows 8 Pro key I originally activated with. (Actually, I did this twice and it activated both times without issue.) I did have to insert the key to get it to activate after the fact though.
 
I upgraded from 8.1 to 10 via Microsoft when they offered it for free.

I am swapping my motherboard/CPU from Gigabyte/AMD 955 to Gigabyte/Intel 2600K.

There was a method with Windows 8 where you just deleted some of the devices in device manager, rebooted and it would usually work fine. It seems like there are a hundred different ways recommended now all over google.

I have probably 200 applications on this box and if I can avoid a week of reinstalling everything (assuming that some of the programs are even still out there as my rig goes back 20+ years for some of the data / apps on it).

I have already used ShowKeyPlus to pull my original and installed keys from my current build.

If someone has a method to help automate if I need to do a full clean install, I'd appreciate the links.

Å

Just a heads up but, you do not have to delete any devices, Windows 10 will work fine without doing that. Although, removing any extra software of the original motherboard or hardware software would be a good idea.
 
I swapped boards and re used the Windows 8 Pro key I originally activated with. (Actually, I did this twice and it activated both times without issue.) I did have to insert the key to get it to activate after the fact though.
That would be a good idea to try. I didn't recommend that because I wasn't sure if Windows 10 still activated with 7/8 keys anymore.
 
20 years worth of apps? What, has that installation been used over and over again with upgrades from Windows 95 or 98 through XP to Vista to Windows 7 to 8 and 8.1 and now Windows 10? And with ~200 applications installed and still used for the whole time? If that's the case I can't recommend anything but a clean install but that's just me, good lord that installation must have cruft the likes of which we've never seen before. :D

Seriously, if you're going to do a new build (even using older hardware like that i7 2600K) after all these years, I really truly recommend you consider a clean fresh start because it's damned well time. :)
 
I swapped boards and re used the Windows 8 Pro key I originally activated with. (Actually, I did this twice and it activated both times without issue.) I did have to insert the key to get it to activate after the fact though.

I build a number of Intel NUC's and sell them to clients as desktop systems, every NUC has Windows 10 installed. When I have to send a NUC back to Intel for replacement under warranty there is no way I can simply activate Windows by entering the key on the replacement device, if I do that I can assure you the error 'key already in use on another device' results - And bear in mind that we're talking identical systems here, I'm just swapping the SSD between identical devices.

In every instance the only way to activate Windows is to contact Microsoft and get them to do it, even the automated phone system doesn't exist anymore.

So I'm not too sure how you're activating Windows 10 on different devices using a Windows 8 key, but I can assure you that's in no way always the case at all.

Now I'm waiting for you to take my comments negatively and reply as if I'm somehow attacking you.
 
Last edited:
I have a full pro license, not OEM. I need to pull my key from the OS since the 8.1 to 10 upgrade uses a key behind the scenes.

I have done clean installs in the past. When I went to 8.1, it actually was forced on me since the DVD I had was bugged in some way and would re-format / not upgrade. Not only did it do my main drive, but the other drives in my PC and backup drive via USB.

Microsoft had logged into my box for almost a week trying to recover data. In the end they did get most of it, but the thing that took the worst beating was my email and I lost pretty much everything.

They sent me a new DVD.
 
If you have installed Windows 10 at any point then all the previous keys don't really matter anymore for the most part but could still be required to reactivate Windows 10 IF you're going to be having new hardware, obviously. Because Windows 10 doesn't typically (note I said typically and not technically) require a Product Key as most folks got it using the free upgrade offer where the activation hash was stored with Microsoft for future use if necessary, if you're going to move to new hardware that activation hash is only relevant to the previous hardware configuration.

If, however, you tied your install to a Microsoft account which so many people seem to do you more than likely might not be required to enter any Product Keys at all (during the installation mainly) and it could activate after the installation is done as soon as you log into the Microsoft account used with the previously activated installation.

Yes, it seems a bit ridiculous but it might work out well for you in that sense if you're utilizing a Microsoft account tied to Windows 10 (or 8/8.1 for that matter either).
 
If you have installed Windows 10 at any point then all the previous keys don't really matter anymore for the most part but could still be required to reactivate Windows 10 IF you're going to be having new hardware, obviously. Because Windows 10 doesn't typically (note I said typically and not technically) require a Product Key as most folks got it using the free upgrade offer where the activation hash was stored with Microsoft for future use if necessary, if you're going to move to new hardware that activation hash is only relevant to the previous hardware configuration.

If, however, you tied your install to a Microsoft account which so many people seem to do you more than likely might not be required to enter any Product Keys at all (during the installation mainly) and it could activate after the installation is done as soon as you log into the Microsoft account used with the previously activated installation.

Yes, it seems a bit ridiculous but it might work out well for you in that sense if you're utilizing a Microsoft account tied to Windows 10 (or 8/8.1 for that matter either).

If the OS is tied to the account I believe reactivation may be possible, I've never tried as none of my clients use Microsoft accounts. But if not simply entering the key will not, in my experience, reactivate the OS and the error 'key already in use on another device' results.

This is on systems loaded with brand new OEM installs of Windows 10 Home.
 
The whole reason Microsoft revamped the entire Product Key activation scheme by reversing it (where in the past the activation info was stored on the local machine and now it's stored on Microsoft's servers) is the reason that tying an activation hash to a Microsoft account is in place now: to make it easier for people to move things if they find it necessary for some reason (hardware failure being the predominant reason as most people get a computer and keep it as is for years, enthusiasts do upgrading of individual components but they're in the minority overall).

Since this is a situation where - at least I'm confident it is - the OP has hardware he/she built years ago (the Gigabyte/AMD setup) meaning a retail Product Key for Windows was used way back whenever that machine was put together and then upgraded upon version to version till he/she got to Windows 10 and took advantage of the free upgrade as long as at some point that activation hash for Windows 10 was tied to a Microsoft account it can be reactivated even on different hardware configurations (but just one at a time, of course).

Worse comes to worse the OP does the new build, installs Windows 10 cleanly (no upgrade BS, do it clean or go home) and does NOT use a Product Key of any kind during the installation, and then gets online once it's installed and logs into the Microsoft account it should activate without issues - if there are any issues at all a phone call to Microsoft should resolve things quick and easy and they'll push a new activation hash to that Microsoft account which then pushes back to the actual installation after the next reboot and it should be good to go.

Or all fucking hell will break loose, what do I know. :D
 
In every instance the only way to activate Windows is to contact Microsoft and get them to do it, even the automated phone system doesn't exist anymore.


The phone system existed as of November 2016 (last time I used it) I switched from AMD to INTEL. It has even been upgraded with a new option, they will ask if they can send you a txt message to load an app and do it over your smart phone (much easier)
 
I am tied to a microsoft account.

I just wanted the keys in case they have an issue finding them.
 
The phone system existed as of November 2016 (last time I used it) I switched from AMD to INTEL. It has even been upgraded with a new option, they will ask if they can send you a txt message to load an app and do it over your smart phone (much easier)

It defiantly doesn't exist in my region, it did exist not even six months ago.
 
Back
Top