Teh Uber L33t Aqua-Computer Thread :)

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Okay I spoke with Wes at Sharka today and funds were wired to Austria Monday and he is awaiting confirmation of shipping by IT-Trade. Franz told me that wire transfers of funds bank to bank typically take 3-5 business days from the USA to Austria or vice-versa. No idea as to why it takes so long as wire transfers to Germany usually take about 24-48 hours tops. However, as some are wont to say "When in Austria we do as the Austrians want us to do ;) So if the funds don't show up at IT-Trade tomorrow then a tracer will go out and whoever is sitting on the funds will get an international bank spanking. :eek:

The stuff will not be put on the site for sale till he gets confirmation that his customs broker has picked it up and it is on its way to Munich for loading on a commercial air transport. AFAIK there is no real-time way to track the shipment, but it normally comes in on a direct flight from Germany to Los Angeles International per Wes. Once it is there and goes through customs it will delivered via truck directly to Sharka. As soon as he gets confirmation of shipping, the people who have contacted him previously will be able to place there orders with Sharka.. Balance will be put on the website for sale and then another order will go in almost immediately. If you want something that they do not stock then please contact Wes at Sharka Corp for particulars on price and delivery terms as I don't even want to be involved in this. ;)
 
Hi Guys and Gals...

Been gabbing with Franz at It-Trade for a while and the loot showed up in Austria today so it appears that he will be shipping early next week. :D Will post more tomorrow as it is getting late and Uncle Sam is expecting me tomorrow. ;) I think he will be accepting special orders for the second shipment, but please contact him for those particulars. :)
 
zeebs said:
I wouldn't get the silver block. I doubt it does anything meaningful for your overclock. Plus, any copper or aluminum in your loop would corrode with silver in the mix, since they are less inert than silver.... I would be pretty pissed if my radiator tubes just so happened to get eaten through.
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Would using Fluid XP negate this issue?

I know enough to know that mixing metals is not good but I don't know enough to know what to do about it.

Top Nurse said:
Well I ordered in the Cuplex XT with some extra tops. After I actually see what is going on I plan to rebore the threads for G1/4 fittings so I can run 10mm OD x 8mm ID tubing. Perhaps this won't work well, but who knows till ya try?

The fittings I will be using are from this company and they are already being sent in as engineering samples :p I will be using a lot of the bulkhead connectors and the 90 & 45 degree fittings as well. You will be able to get these fittings from Sharka soon as well. Probably be a week or two before they actually get them up on the site. As I have stated before I think it is silly to ship across the pond what you can get here. Especially when it is the same company, that A-C often buys from, who has a large manufacturing and warehouse facility here in Arizona. I also got a line on some 10mm OD x 8mm ID P&C fittings that have the G 1/8 thread that A-C uses on everything besides the radiators, but those samples are coming from China so it may be a while before I get those. :(

As far as the tubing goes I ordered in about 3 meters each of all the P&C tubing that A-C sells. I was thinking of black tubing below and the clear UV above, but after I see what I get I will make a more informed decision. :) Wes told me he ordered in standard 25 meter rolls of the P&C tubing so there should be plenty for anyone else. :D
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Please excuse my lack of knowledge in the area, I've only installed a Swiftech Kit at this point so I have limited experience with W/C. However, I'm trying to learn so let me see if I understand correctly:

I assume you are thinking of moving from the normal A-C tubing (8mm OD?) to 10mm OD (which is very close to equal to 3/8?) for performance reasons. Is re-boring necessary because of performance or because of your fittings that you want to use?

What 10mm tubing are you planning to use? Tygon?

Is there a 10mm solution (fittings and tubing) that would work with the A-C parts _without_ having to re-bore?

I'm not opposed to using the A-C fittings/tubing in my setup but I'm still not sure I wan't to got that small (of course seeing my 3/8 Swifty setup, I have no desire to go 1/2 either).

Edit: Also, I've head that P&C and compression are not as reliable/good as barb with screw clamps (which kinda makes sense). Are you concerned at all about leaks with P&C?
 
As you know I was not pleased with the current state of supply for Aqua Computer products here in the USA a while back. Since then I managed to get the products I wanted ordered in a timely manner and arranged for all of you to get them on an on-going basis through Sharka Corp. So now everyone should be happy...well almost everyone ;) I suppose that the only reason someone should want $$ now from you before shipment from a USA distributor would be if you are ordering a non-stock item and don't have a credit card on file with the vendor in question.

So the moral of this story is to never accept the status quo if you don't like what is happening. You have the power to change your life and not put up with other people's or companies B.S. I decided a month ago that if I couldn't get a product the way I wanted it to happen then I was going to go get some other product and "be happy" with it. It was really easy to find someone who wanted to make money and expand their current product line-up. :D

In addition I have made it much more easier for all concerned to purchase directly from IT-Trade if you are so inclined. If you have MSN Messenger you can do real-time chats with Franz by using his alias "IT-TRADE.NET" so please contact him directly for details. For those who want to get $$ quickly to IT-Trade you can send it via Western Union for a small fee. Franz says it takes a whole 1/2 to 1 hour for them to get the cash in their hot little hands. You can also easily check stock at IT-Trade in Austria via this link in real time.

So what is left to do now huh? Well I want to go back to being a wicked modifier of all things that go snap, crackle, and pop. So I will leave the business of computer supply to the people who do it best. I want to go back to being a happy go lucky nurse and talk about all the new stuff in [H] circles without being bothered about problems in supply and demand. So if you have a problem in this area please talk with your vendor to get it straightened out and if that doesn't work come here and rag on them for a while, but please leave me out of it. However, that doesn't mean that I wouldn't try to help out my fellow [H]ardForum members. And for those who like to take advantage of others please note that Top Nurse can ride again to glory. :cool:

Pleasant A-C Dreams,
Top Nurse
 
WarlordBB said:
Would using Fluid XP negate this issue?

I know enough to know that mixing metals is not good but I don't know enough to know what to do about it.



Please excuse my lack of knowledge in the area, I've only installed a Swiftech Kit at this point so I have limited experience with W/C. However, I'm trying to learn so let me see if I understand correctly:

I assume you are thinking of moving from the normal A-C tubing (8mm OD?) to 10mm OD (which is very close to equal to 3/8?) for performance reasons. Is re-boring necessary because of performance or because of your fittings that you want to use?

What 10mm tubing are you planning to use? Tygon?

Is there a 10mm solution (fittings and tubing) that would work with the A-C parts _without_ having to re-bore?

I'm not opposed to using the A-C fittings/tubing in my setup but I'm still not sure I wan't to got that small (of course seeing my 3/8 Swifty setup, I have no desire to go 1/2 either).

Edit: Also, I've head that P&C and compression are not as reliable/good as barb with screw clamps (which kinda makes sense). Are you concerned at all about leaks with P&C?
Click to expand...

Plug&Cool tubing, when installed correctly into the fitting and not pulled on is a very reliable connection. Since I am a long time Aqua-Computer user I can safely say that.

Also, a Compression Fitting is the "barb with the screw clamps."

AC products are designed to match with P&C fittings and hose but there is a hose barb (10mm OD) available that can adapt to your larger needs without modifying. Boring over and tapping new threads in the waterblocks to accomidate larger fittings would definitely increase the risk of leaks, especially with an unexperienced machinist. Of course the warranty also goes right out the window with any modifications. Larger fittings would also not make much of a difference, if any, since the block channels themselves are still going to be just as small as they were before and just as "restrictive."

-Dan
 
WarlordBB said:
Would using Fluid XP negate this issue?
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That is an unknown due to the product only being out a very short time. However, the manufacturer claims no galvanic reaction problems.

I assume you are thinking of moving from the normal A-C tubing (8mm OD?) to 10mm OD (which is very close to equal to 3/8?) for performance reasons. Is re-boring necessary because of performance or because of your fittings that you want to use? What 10mm tubing are you planning to use? Tygon? Is there a 10mm solution (fittings and tubing) that would work with the A-C parts _without_ having to re-bore?
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You are correct about the change in tubing. On my Cuplex XT that will be here next week I also ordered in some extra plexi tops to experiment with. I have also located fittings from Legris and other companies to natively go from G 1/8 to the size I want (10mm OD). Reboring is not necessary if my fittings show up any time soon from my Chinese connection. Otherwise it will be time to visit my Tool and Die friends. BTW, I'm not a fan of expensive tubes from computer supply companies and will get whatever works from a real tubing supply house. If you are interested in how this change in tubing size might affect performance I would direct you to this [H]ardOCP review done a few years ago on Innovatek products. Incidentally it appears that Sharka Corp supplied them with the hardware. So perhaps nothing may come of this and perhaps something might, but the only way to find out is to try it and be [H].


I'm not opposed to using the A-C fittings/tubing in my setup but I'm still not sure I wan't to got that small (of course seeing my 3/8 Swifty setup, I have no desire to go 1/2 either).
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Whatever floats your boat, but Big is not Better just because everyone assumes it is. :p


Edit: Also, I've head that P&C and compression are not as reliable/good as barb with screw clamps (which kinda makes sense). Are you concerned at all about leaks with P&C?
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Not concerned at all. Whoever says that a barbed fitting with a hose clamp is more secure than a pneumatic (so called Plug n Cool) or compression fitting is simply out of their mind IMHO. Last time I was around industrial robotics I didn't see one barbed fitting with a hose clamp on it! They were all compression or pneumatic fittings. If it holds air reliably it will hold H20 reliably. BTW, I think A-C calls what we know in the USA as compression fittings "pneumatic" style fittings. In any case it really doesn't matter and as I have pointed out there are plenty of domestic supplies of fittings here in the USA. So happy fitting hunting :D
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
Also, a Compression Fitting is the "barb with the screw clamps."
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Hi Dan and welcome back to the fray! Slightly out of context I think though as compression fittings dont have what most people call screw clamps. Compression fittings work by putting a tube over a short barbed fitting and then screwing a nut over the OD of the tubing. This forces the tubing around the barb in such a manner to almost be a perfect seal.


Boring over and tapping new threads in the waterblocks to accomidate larger fittings would definitely increase the risk of leaks, especially with an unexperienced machinist.
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Well I sure hope BB is a good machinist in case I want a G 1/4 Aquatube anytime soon ;) The seal portion of a G thread class or BSPP as it is more commonly known is primarily on the spot face surface and not so much in in the threads itself. Even if someone did tap off center it would probably still be okay so long as they spot face on the same setup.

I would look in the near future to be able to buy Aquatube and Fass-O-Matic style reservoirs that would be produced domestically out of solid aluminum round stock on modern CNC equipment. I think they will be available in standard 1/4 NPT and 1/4 BSPP threads. Reducers would be available as optional to use G 1/8 fittings from various manufacturer's. :D
 
Top Nurse said:
Hi Dan and welcome back to the fray! Slightly out of context I think though as compression fittings dont have what most people call screw clamps. Compression fittings work by putting a tube over a short barbed fitting and then screwing a nut over the OD of the tubing. This forces the tubing around the barb in such a manner to almost be a perfect seal.
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Well, again I was refering to the AC supplied Compression Fittings. Its what the person was also refering to.

BTW, Im always in the "fray."

-Dan
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
Well, again I was refering to the AC supplied Compression Fittings. Its what the person was also refering to.
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Not really if you go a ways back up you will see what I mean, but WTF no big deal :)

BTW, Im always in the "fray."
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I definitely knows the feeling both here and when I'm finishing up a 12 hour stint in the ICU. ;)

BTW, do you often have a hangup in customs? I was thinking about that today and I was wondering if the IT-Trade manifest just says that everything is computer components? If so that would be a big red flag to a customs agent when they open it up and see all these things that look like auto heater cores and machined fittings. Don't know if it would help out, but it might pay to check it out. Might cost you some more $$ in duties to just call it what they are instead of what they are used for and perhaps speed your shipment through customs at the same time. :)

Oh...and congrats on becoming a Gawd!
 
Since everything is written in German, Customs employees cant read it so I have to rewrite the entire invoice document and email it in. Thats the delay.

-Dan
 
WarlordBB said:
Would using Fluid XP negate this issue?
Click to expand...

Negative. Corrosion inhibitors are just that: inhibitors. The process of galvanic corrosion is inevitable. The good news is that most people don't own the exact same water cooling loop for long enough so that the worst effects of corrosion show themselves. I am more of a "set and forget" type guy so I don't even bother with the risk.
 
DHL actually has their own broker service but they always need outside help, either from myself or Franz since the documents that are included with the numerous packages are all in German.

Copied from the DHL webby:
4/16/05 8:12 am Clearance processing complete. Cincinnati Hub, OH

And I just got off the phone with my DHL rep and I was told that the packages will be delivered to me on Monday by noon (or heads will roll). This gives me some time to get some items out the same day for the standard 2 day delivery.

I'm already setup and very prepared to begin packaging immediately after checking in inventory. There is even help this time around. :D

For those who have stuck by me through all the hardships my greatest thanks go out to you. For those that will find business elsewhere I still thank you for your time and patience and I completely understand.

-Dan
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
DHL actually has their own broker service but they always need outside help, either from myself or Franz since the documents that are included with the numerous packages are all in German.
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Well I hope you take this right, but WTF! You are paying DHL rates for fast express shipments correct? What's the point of paying big bucks for fast freight if it always sits in US Customs for a week?

What would it be worth to you to be able to get stuff quicker through US Customs?
 
zeebs said:
Negative. Corrosion inhibitors are just that: inhibitors. The process of galvanic corrosion is inevitable. The good news is that most people don't own the exact same water cooling loop for long enough so that the worst effects of corrosion show themselves. I am more of a "set and forget" type guy so I don't even bother with the risk.
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It has a neutral Ph of 7.0 and is not conductive so I don't think it is possible for any galvanic corrosion to occur. Fluid XP+ does not have any corrosion inhibitors in it because it doesn't need any from the spec's I have seen on the companies website. I think this will be what I'm putting in my system :D When I see what affect it has on temp and OC ability I will get back with you about it.
 
What about mct-40 from danger den? It sounds good: http://www.dangerdenstore.com/home.php?cat=63

I don't know the way they talk about fluid xp it's hard for me to believe the product is good, it seems like an infomercial.

Do they make copper or silver editions of the Aquadrive? Like the two aluminum blocks on the sides.

What about silver edition aquatubes? I know it would be pointless, but that's not the point heh.
 
badash said:
What about mct-40 from danger den?
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Don't drink that stuff or you will die a horrible death! Otherwise it isn't much different than anti-freeze except for some special additives.

I don't know the way they talk about fluid xp it's hard for me to believe the product is good, it seems like an infomercial.
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Yes I know what you mean. I thought the same thing till I actually saw the stuff in my hot little hands ;) Perhaps they should only just tell part of the truth to tone it down heh?

Do they make copper or silver editions of the Aquadrive? Like the two aluminum blocks on the sides. What about silver edition aquatubes? I know it would be pointless, but that's not the point heh.
Click to expand...

Well since I have asked about these kinds of things before from A-C I will tell you probably what they will say. Depends how many friends you got that want to buy them and how much money ya got ;) I can tell you upfront that it would be VERY expensive for a silver Aquatube as they machine those out of solid round bar stock. :eek:
 
With fluid XP corrosion is still a factor, even if it has a neutral PH. If the solution contains any oxygen in it, then it will act as an aqueous electrolyte. The oxygen will react with the anodic metal (copper) and the process of galvanic corrosion can take place.
 
Need some advice on putting in an Airplex Evo 240 in my Lian-Li V2000. Thinking of in top of case or cutting slot in main compartment divider and mounting it so half is above and the other half of radiator below (just above the PSU). In this configuration I would use the stock case fan and two 80mm fans in the PSU area for radiator air flow. Advantage to PSU area would be increased ventilation of bottom of case area. I think I would configure so that Aquaero only turns on the 80mm fans when temps reach a certain temp while the 120 fan above the deck would start at a different temp.

Comments appreciated ;)
 
The middle section idea sounds pretty good. You have a lot of space in there so why not. Once you move the air through the evo from the lower half of the case, you would want to move it out of the motherboard compartment in a timely fasion, so just make sure airflow out is good.
 
Thinking of running a second loop specifically to cool my hdd's in the bottom of my V2000 case. I think I can fit a HWL BI Pro 120 inbetween the front fan and the front HDD rack. Using the little Timmer pump I think I could put the whole thing in the front bottom compartment without losing any of my HDD racks (perhaps mounting pump in area above radiator and fan unit). I'm using the Koolance Hydra-Pak coolers on my 74Gb Raptors so a 6mm ID would be just perfect on everything. Do you think I would need a small reservoir or should I just go for a DD Fill Port to a T-line?

Comments appreciated :)
 
If you really want to water cool the hard drives you can. For the sake of saving all the trouble I would just rig up some extra intake fans on bottom of the case if it has those small holes underneath the HDD's.
 
Your idea sounds interesting Nurse. I'm assuming the 2000 is laid out similarly to my 1000b, and looks like the area between the offset and rear of case would allow it. At first look it seems a shame to use all that flat area up but the more I look at it more possiblities for layout open up. I have a 240 as well and haven't cut the case yet. I'm liking this the more I look at it............
 
zeebs said:
With fluid XP corrosion is still a factor, even if it has a neutral PH. If the solution contains any oxygen in it, then it will act as an aqueous electrolyte. The oxygen will react with the anodic metal (copper) and the process of galvanic corrosion can take place.
Click to expand...

You sound like you would know more about this than me so I defer to your thoughts on this matter. However, I'm still going to use the stuff. :D
 
zeebs said:
The middle section idea sounds pretty good. You have a lot of space in there so why not. Once you move the air through the evo from the lower half of the case, you would want to move it out of the motherboard compartment in a timely fasion, so just make sure airflow out is good.
Click to expand...

Well I thought of also having a new PSU plate made that would ditch the dual 80mm grill and instead put in the single 120mm grill I would like there. I also ordered two 120mm A-C grills in anticipation that I might want to go in this direction in addition to the 240mm grill that Sharka has coming in for me.
 
zeebs said:
If you really want to water cool the hard drives you can. For the sake of saving all the trouble I would just rig up some extra intake fans on bottom of the case if it has those small holes underneath the HDD's.
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Well I thought it was such a good idea I already got the Koolance coolers so now it is simply a matter of integration. :p
 
Toonage said:
Your idea sounds interesting Nurse. I'm assuming the 2000 is laid out similarly to my 1000b, and looks like the area between the offset and rear of case would allow it. At first look it seems a shame to use all that flat area up but the more I look at it more possiblities for layout open up. I have a 240 as well and haven't cut the case yet. I'm liking this the more I look at it............
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Yes the 2000 is similarly laid out except it is deeper and taller. I always say when it comes to modding computers it pays to think out of the box. ;)
 
Top Nurse said:
Yes the 2000 is similarly laid out except it is deeper and taller. I always say when it comes to modding computers it pays to think out of the box. ;)
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The V2000 is almost my perfect case, if I hadn't bought a new desk and decided I wanted the case op top of the desk... :confused:

With my PC7077, I can easily set up a dual 120mm rad cooled comp, but with my PC75 (I have a lot of Lian Li cases, I love them), I can use the dual 240 cut I already made, and then use the 120mm cut I added to the bottom for a super-duper ( ;) ) double cooled water cooled system of doom. Add to that the Innovatek passive rad... Meeps!

Back OT, for the V2000, I'm thinking of adding the dual rad internally, on the space under the mobo and 5.25 drives, above the PSU and HDD bays. The Aquatube will go into a 120mm blowhole with the SNT Mods made acylic/plexi Aquatube mount. Maybeit is my perfect case, I don't know anymore...
 
Top Nurse said:
I'm sorry but the devil made me do it: Did anyone see Dan's head rolling down Davis Drive today? Must be kind of hard to hear the doorbell when your shooting up everything in sight on CSS ;) ;)
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LOL
 
Pooky said:
The V2000 is almost my perfect case, if I hadn't bought a new desk and decided I wanted the case op top of the desk... :confused:

With my PC7077, I can easily set up a dual 120mm rad cooled comp, but with my PC75 (I have a lot of Lian Li cases, I love them), I can use the dual 240 cut I already made, and then use the 120mm cut I added to the bottom for a super-duper ( ;) ) double cooled water cooled system of doom. Add to that the Innovatek passive rad... Meeps!

Back OT, for the V2000, I'm thinking of adding the dual rad internally, on the space under the mobo and 5.25 drives, above the PSU and HDD bays. The Aquatube will go into a 120mm blowhole with the SNT Mods made acylic/plexi Aquatube mount. Maybeit is my perfect case, I don't know anymore...
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Well...how about ditching the desk? ;)

besides my V2000 I also have a PC-75 sitting here. The black EXOS looks nice sitting on the silver aluminum top. Are you saying that you want the Evo 240 fitted to the inside partition? That would be nice with a 240 grill holding it down to that partition! Do you already have the grill?
 
2.jpg
 
Top Nurse said:
Well...how about ditching the desk? ;)

besides my V2000 I also have a PC-75 sitting here. The black EXOS looks nice sitting on the silver aluminum top. Are you saying that you want the Evo 240 fitted to the inside partition? That would be nice with a 240 grill holding it down to that partition! Do you already have the grill?
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Hehe, NO WAY! I love this desk. It's brown powder coated steel 5 feet in length. One side unit has 2 drawers and a file cabinet, and the other has 2 shelves with a drawer. My last desk was a 48" Anthrocart (www.anthro.com) with lots of accessories> wanted a new cart with drawers, but the price as well over the $1000 mark. My new desk was only $500 for everything.

Yeah, I want the grill fitted to the inside, with the grill over it.I have both the rad and the grill. I think I'll actually do that, it will look hot. Hrmm, all I need now is to remove the stock windowed side panel and replace it with a newer DIY one.
 
Pooky said:
Hehe, NO WAY! I love this desk. It's brown powder coated steel 5 feet in length. One side unit has 2 drawers and a file cabinet, and the other has 2 shelves with a drawer. My new desk was only $500 for everything.
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I got a nice glass top 72" desk + a matching monitor riser on a small workstation. It's nice because I cann see through the desktop to my computer window below. :p

Yeah, I want the grill fitted to the inside, with the grill over it.I have both the rad and the grill. I think I'll actually do that, it will look hot. Hrmm, all I need now is to remove the stock windowed side panel and replace it with a newer DIY one.
Click to expand...

Well I got the rad here and the grill along with the other stuff will be here Friday or Monday. :D Your idea has definite possibilities, but I would have to remove one of the HD racks to make it work. However, I had planned on removing one of them anyway so perhaps I could remove both of them and reposition the one to exactly where I wanted it in the first place. And it would not appreciably change the structural integrity of the case structure. Also wouldn't have to make some custom sheet metal parts on my friend's Bridgeport.
 
Top Nurse said:
I'm sorry but the devil made me do it: Did anyone see Dan's head rolling down Davis Drive today? Must be kind of hard to hear the doorbell when your shooting up everything in sight on CSS ;) ;)
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Nurse, you are getting on my last nurve now.

The doorbell was not rung and I was not playing CSS at the time. I was very much awake and using my computer for business.

I have the stuff and I will be shipping backorders tomorrow. Take care! :)

-Dan
 
You guys have nice tats. However, this is not even on the subject of computers much less water cooling or Aqua Computer Products....

<edited>

Anyway what I wanted to say is that my order is being shipped today from Austria. It will be coming in on a direct flight from Munich into Los Angeles International (LAX) by Wednesday or Thursday and be delivered to Sharka Corp for delivery Monday. Just to whet your appetite I wanted to share a little sight with you before you all go nighty nite and I think only about 30% of this is for customer orders. The rest is open stock available for immediate delivery when it gets here. No customs problems are anticipated as the customs brokerage service they use at LAX are all fluent in German.

As I mentioned before this was just a little order by Sharka to get into the Aqua Computer business slowly. Another order will be shipping from Austria in about 10-14 days with even more fun stuff :D :D
 
Top Nurse said:
So how about I tell you all a nice bedtime story, ok?

Once upon a time there was a mighty warrior of the S&T clan. This warrior had it really good and ate heartily while he wallowed wantonly through the fields of Aqua creating death and destruction wherever he went. One day while fighting off the hordes who besmirched his mighty name he found himself next to one of the many inland oceans of this fascinating world. Feeling quite safe he decided to bathe and refresh himself in the waters of Aqua as none would dare to attack him after slaying the many of the day. So he removed most of his clothes and waded out into the waters of Aqua. The water of Aqua refreshed him and he drank heavily of it and laid back to float in the water and just enjoy himself in the high noon sun of the day. Feeling quite satisfied he turned over and slowly swam to the shore. About halfway to the shore a big fish called a shark appeared from the depths and swallowed him whole in one juicy bite. The mighty warrior of the clan of S&T was never seen again.

Well that was kind of fun, but it was just a bedtime story with no real meaning or substance. Just a little entertainment...
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Wow, just wow. Such evil tactics you have.

-Dan
 
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