Suggestions on protecting HDMI ports

[ajira99]

Hi folks! I could use some input on best practices for protecting HDMI inputs from power surges and transients.

I have a 2010 model 55" Samsung LCD TV (LN55C650) that is connected by a Monoprice HS HDMI cable to a Yamaha YSP-2200 soundbar. This has been working flawlessly for ~16 months with a PS3, Xbox 360 and HTPC connected directly to the soundbar. The display and HTPC are on the battery-backed outlets of a APC RS 1500 UPS. Recently, I woke up during a power outage. The UPS had been beeping for maybe 15 minutes before power came back on. When I turned on the TV from standby, it couldn't find an HDMI signal. After some investigation, it seems that none of the HDMI inputs work on the TV, although every other device (including the soundbar) work on a different display. I'll have to switch everything over to component cables. So my possible failure causes seem to be:

1) Blown HDMI input block on the TV (who knew these ports were so sensitive to static?).
2) S/W problem on TV, maybe HDCP-rtelated? (soft factory reset didn't correct this).
3) Power supply failure in TV (swollen caps, etc.).
4) Bad HDMI cables (switched out w/o effect).

My question is how should I protect my equipment in the future? I "think" that I have an extended warranty somewhere, but it seems like all I can do is get a dedicated AV power conditioner, verify the wiring in my apartment and/or install a whole-house power conditioner in the breaker box (unlikely). What sucks is trying to schedule a service call when I'm on the 3rd floor and 20 miles for the nearest service center.

 

[Zangmonkey]

You protect them just as you did: by having them plugged into a competent UPS and surge.

I would file a warranty claim, *usually* the HDMI board is an easy part to swap.

 

[ajira99]

Well, I thought I was in good shape with this UPS since it easily handles transients, as well as under/overvoltage conditions. It's just weird (in my experience) that every other device in the chain was unaffected except the TV. Typically, you would expect to see some kind of buffering on the HDMI transceiver chips.

 

[Trepidati0n]

I don't think it is the HDMI ports sensitivity. If they followed the HDMI spec (I've used the same supressors they do) then it really isn't on them. Usually what kills HDMI ports is sustained ground differential beyond the spec since they are not galvancially isolated. The fact that some equipment was on the UPS and some wasn't stongly indicates this is what happend.

As Zang said...execute a warranty repair.

 

[ajira99]

Actually, everything was plugged into the UPS (only the TV and HTPC were battery-backed, though), but I take your meaning. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[Zangmonkey]

Actually, everything was plugged into the UPS (only the TV and HTPC were battery-backed, though), but I take your meaning. Thanks for the help everyone!

Sometimes AVRs with passive HDMI passthrough can cause issues with connected HDMI devices.... unfortunately it can be difficult to UPS an amp (presuming your AVR is also your amp)

 

[s0rce]

If its not under warranty many surge protectors/UPS offer insurance for damaged equipment.

 

[Trepidati0n]

If its not under warranty many surge protectors/UPS offer insurance for damaged equipment.

I would avoid this. Of all the people I know that had legitimate claims against a surge supressor compamy, only one ever got paid. They are really good as gettingout of it.

As for your warranty on your TV...only say "the port has stopped working" and nothing else. Because anything else you say cannot help you. Don't ever mention the word "surge".

 

[DJ_007]

good advice.. I have worked at a couple different retail stores in the positions do decide what will be returned/replaced per warranty. if you ever have a problem simply tell them it just quit working.. any other information can easily give them reason to void your warranty.

 

[YeuEmMaiMai]

turn the TV off and unplug it. wait 10 mins and turn it back on see if it works.

 

[summy]

Did you have any devices like a Cable/Satellite box (or coax into a tv tuner on the HTPC) into the TV as well as the other components listed? I've seen systems fully protected by UPS/Surge protectors have all HDMI inputs blown by cable/sat boxes that weren't grounded by the lovely installers! Was the power outage in a storm? Just saying you may want to check if you had this type of video source, as the problem may happen again...fyi. If you don't then nvm and chalk it up to UPS's not being able to protect you from everything

 

[Bighitter]

Also you can get transient voltage from Cat5 or Coax cables going straight into your PC, cable or satellite set top boxes. If you surge protect everything but not those inputs its just another place for the voltage to seek ground.

 

[ajira99]

Sorry folks, I was out sick for a few days and wasn't following the posts.

Sometimes AVRs with passive HDMI passthrough can cause issues with connected HDMI devices.... unfortunately it can be difficult to UPS an amp (presuming your AVR is also your amp)

AFAIK, the soundbar does have passive HDMI passthrough and it is my primary amp. I only had a few handshaking issues with my HTPC resuming from sleep with the wrong resolution. I tried the same HDMI cable and device setup with the older LCD TV that I have and it's working fine.

I would avoid this. Of all the people I know that had legitimate claims against a surge supressor compamy, only one ever got paid. They are really good as gettingout of it.

As for your warranty on your TV...only say "the port has stopped working" and nothing else. Because anything else you say cannot help you. Don't ever mention the word "surge".

Good point! I already figured that it would be nearly impossible to file a claim with APC for a port on the TV (versus a blown outlet/dead set).

turn the TV off and unplug it. wait 10 mins and turn it back on see if it works.

Yep, I tried that in the hope that the TV was simply suffering from a software glitch, but it didn't work.

Did you have any devices like a Cable/Satellite box (or coax into a tv tuner on the HTPC) into the TV as well as the other components listed?

I do have an unprotected coax feed to the cable card tuner in my HTPC. Definitely the weakest link in my chain, but I'm working on addressing this with a decent power conditioner. No issues with the card or any of the resultant recordings. There also wasn't a storm that morning, but the outage affected the entire apartment complex -- nothing like walking up to the loud, shrill beeping of a UPS.

Also you can get transient voltage from Cat5 or Coax cables going straight into your PC, cable or satellite set top boxes. If you surge protect everything but not those inputs its just another place for the voltage to seek ground.

Yeah, I've probably put that off for too long. I used to worry about the coax feeds, but I've had more issues with brownouts and surges here in the Atlanta area than anything else.

Worse comes to worse, if I can't find my warranty info, I'll have to pay out-of-pocket to get those inputs repaired (and deal with transportation, ugh!!) or try to switch everything to component with a different AVR. Thanks to everyone for their responses!

 

[summy]

Sorry folks, I was out sick for a few days and wasn't following the posts.



AFAIK, the soundbar does have passive HDMI passthrough and it is my primary amp. I only had a few handshaking issues with my HTPC resuming from sleep with the wrong resolution. I tried the same HDMI cable and device setup with the older LCD TV that I have and it's working fine.



Good point! I already figured that it would be nearly impossible to file a claim with APC for a port on the TV (versus a blown outlet/dead set).



Yep, I tried that in the hope that the TV was simply suffering from a software glitch, but it didn't work.



I do have an unprotected coax feed to the cable card tuner in my HTPC. Definitely the weakest link in my chain, but I'm working on addressing this with a decent power conditioner. No issues with the card or any of the resultant recordings. There also wasn't a storm that morning, but the outage affected the entire apartment complex -- nothing like walking up to the loud, shrill beeping of a UPS.



Yeah, I've probably put that off for too long. I used to worry about the coax feeds, but I've had more issues with brownouts and surges here in the Atlanta area than anything else.

Worse comes to worse, if I can't find my warranty info, I'll have to pay out-of-pocket to get those inputs repaired (and deal with transportation, ugh!!) or try to switch everything to component with a different AVR. Thanks to everyone for their responses!

Generally coax splitters around the demarc location have grounding inputs you can use. Just run a thick copper wire from that to a good source of ground, and give any future shocks an easier path to follow.

Sounds like you experienced a brownout as you mentioned, no matter how well items are protected you just can't prevent everything : / On a positive note, there are companies that offer in house service as an option! Did you try running any of the components directly to the tv? I know you mentioned running the hdmi out of the soundbar to another tv, but try some components direct.

 

[Bighitter]

Generally coax splitters around the demarc location have grounding inputs you can use. Just run a thick copper wire from that to a good source of ground, and give any future shocks an easier path to follow.

Sounds like you experienced a brownout as you mentioned, no matter how well items are protected you just can't prevent everything : / On a positive note, there are companies that offer in house service as an option! Did you try running any of the components directly to the tv? I know you mentioned running the hdmi out of the soundbar to another tv, but try some components direct.

Just be careful about creating a ground loop condition from doing this, unless all grounds in your house are terminated to a single point you are introducing the chance for a difference in ground.

 

[summy]

Just be careful about creating a ground loop condition from doing this, unless all grounds in your house are terminated to a single point you are introducing the chance for a difference in ground.

Unless we're talking about houses with additions or mansions that require more than one service box, most houses with one 150 or 200 amp service box are generally ok from a ground loop standpoint

 

[Spudsdude]

Try reseting the tv to factory defaults, and if that don't work update the firmware. (if at the current firmware version, downgrade then upgrade again)

Similar Samsung Tv, same issue, fixed by reset to factory defaults (remote code, google it) and then firmware update.

 

[Ruoh]

There's always renters insurance to fall back on.

 

[ajira99]

There's always renters insurance to fall back on.

Yeah, my computers and electronics are fully covered but I was holding off on that option depending on the projected repair cost.

Try reseting the tv to factory defaults, and if that don't work update the firmware. (if at the current firmware version, downgrade then upgrade again).

I already tried using the remote control "Exit" button method to reset the TV to the default settings (couldn't find a code to the service menu), but it didn't help. I didn't think that a firmware downgrade was supported, but I may try that if I can find a previous release.

Did you try running any of the components directly to the tv? I know you mentioned running the hdmi out of the soundbar to another tv, but try some components direct.

Yep, one of the first things I did was take the soundbar out of the chain and try each device seperately on a different TV. The all worked over HDMI with the original cables and through the soundbar when I added it back in. Swapping out the cables to the Samsung didn't work, so it's almost certainly the affected device.