Philips BDM4065UC - 40" 4K 60Hz monitor thread

This is the first I've heard of these issues, and they might drive me even more insane than some of the other concerns people have posted. Are others having their windows resize like this when they turn their monitor off and back on? And do you really have to freaking hold onto the power button for 3 seconds to turn off the monitor?? I frequently get up and shut off my monitor when I'm about to leave. After a week of use I'm going to start hating this thing if that's the case.

Yes all of what he said about turning off and on is true, if you turn off then turn it on it will resize things, at least in my monitor it comes back to the 4k resolution, but ofc by that time it has already screwed up previous window placement, icon placement and sizes, if you have ever had SLI and had to disable it, it's pretty much like that.
Even if this wasn't true, the on off button is in a somewhat hard to reach place, so really it's not something you will want to do.

EDITED:

BTW to clarify I believe this is a problem with the way the display port works, so if I'm not mistaken you will get this on all monitors that use DPI, at least assuming their on/off switch actually cuts all the power, like the philips.
If this however is very important to you, you might want to look at monitors/tv's with HDMI 2.0, maybe the problem doesn't exist with HDMI 2.0 (no idea if it does or doesn't).

I don't ever turn my monitor off.
It goes to sleep, so why would you want to power it off?

I assume the idea is to not waste power, although truth be told, the power usage when in standby is pretty insignificant, according to the manual we are talking about less than 0.31w, which means after around 8.5 days you have wasted 1 hour worth of watching the monitor (assuming you didn't need another device to watch something on it).
 
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0.3W per hour right? doesn't that make 2628W per year?

So say I use 10 hr. per day. So the rest of the time is 14 x 0.3W per 24 hr. cycle = 4.2W
so for 1 yr., it sucks up 1533W

that's a lot of electricity, isn't it?
 
This is the first I've heard of these issues, and they might drive me even more insane than some of the other concerns people have posted. Are others having their windows resize like this when they turn their monitor off and back on? And do you really have to freaking hold onto the power button for 3 seconds to turn off the monitor?? I frequently get up and shut off my monitor when I'm about to leave. After a week of use I'm going to start hating this thing if that's the case.

You are using a Windows 7 computer with a monitor attached via a DisplayPort connector. You turn the monitor off using the power button, then turn it back on.

In some cases, you may observe that some open windows and/or desktop icons have changed position. For example, if a window was at the lower right of the screen, it may have moved toward the upper left of the screen.

Some DisplayPort monitors, when powered off, may de-assert their Hotplug Detect signal, indicating to the computer that the monitor may have been unplugged. In some cases, when Windows 7 detects that all monitors have been unplugged, it will switch to a default display resolution of 1024x768. When this happens, any open windows and desktop icons may be moved or resized to fit within a virtual 1024x768 desktop.


http://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2625567

What is PersistentWindows?

A poorly named utility that persists window positions and size when the monitor display count/resolution adjusts and restores back to it’s previous settings.

For those of you with multi-monitors running on a mixture of DisplayPort and any other connection, you can run this tool and not have to worry about re-arranging when all is back to normal.

The tool is crude and brute force for now but will improve.

http://www.ninjacrab.com/persistent-windows/

An alternative is setting the default resolution in the registry:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers\Configuration

Under this location you will find all the monitors you had attached and their configuration plus two additional: On starting with "NOEDID" and one starting with "SIMULATED".

Both entries have a sub-key named "00" and inside the two values PrimSurfSize.cx and PrimSurfSize.cy specifying the resolution - by default 1024 and 768.

Change them to your monitors resolution. That should fix the problem.

http://superuser.com/questions/503298/windows-7-resizes-desktop-when-i-switch-of-a-monitor
 
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I should point out, in response to the posts above:

I have not tested failure-to-wake, so I haven't had it.
The PWM is less annoying than most things, as I don't notice it all the time, just when panning through certain things - the HardForum is actually one of the worst for it.

I should point out - the window resize is not a Philips problem - it's a Displayport problem. If you turn a displayport monitor off, there's no signal to feed back to the GPU what size your monitor is, so Windows resizes your applications. That's nothing wrong on Philips' part and I'm sure that if, for example, you use VGA, you won't have it happen, but it's just a DP thing, ergo a necessity for 4K.
HDMI I can't speculate if it does it as well, I don't use it often enough.
Yes, holding the power button in is necessary, though it might not be quite as long as 3 seconds - certainly just pressing the button normally isn't enough, perhaps maybe 1.5-2 seconds.

Happy Hopping: As for 0.3W standby, most monitors are probably more than that - it's common for a lot of electronics to draw a watt or two when switched off. You'd be surprised how much of your equipment is already like that, the Philips, or any other big monitor, will make no difference in that regard.
Also, being a little pedantic, but in the name of accuracy, Watts per hour is not a valid term - it's just Watts.
Electricity consumption is measured in Watt-hours. 1 Watt for 1 hour is 1 Watt hour. Therefore 0.3 Watts for 1 year would be about 2628 Watt Hours, or 2.628KWh - depending on how much you pay for your bill, maybe 40-50 cents a year. Is that a lot to you? (Bear in mind ofc that assumes you have it off all year and never use it!)
 
An alternative is setting the default resolution in the registry:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Graphics Drivers\Configuration

Under this location you will find all the monitors you had attached and their configuration plus two additional: On starting with "NOEDID" and one starting with "SIMULATED".

Both entries have a sub-key named "00" and inside the two values PrimSurfSize.cx and PrimSurfSize.cy specifying the resolution - by default 1024 and 768.

Change them to your monitors resolution. That should fix the problem.

I appreciate the tip. That sounds like a viable solution at least for that issue.
 
That's a neat tip actually, I'm ashamed to say I didn't realise you could do that. Just remember to change it back if you ever want to connect that display to a different PC! ;)
 
hello guys!

i have one question to you all ;) can you download the test picture and tell me what you see on your monitor at the native resolution in fullscreen?

http://abload.de/img/pixel_test_rahmen_uhdazutt.jpg

for me it looks unfortunately like this:



i know, the quality is not sharp, but i think you can see that the first pixel row is "damaged".

greats
 
hello guys!

i have one question to you all ;) can you download the test picture and tell me what you see on your monitor at the native resolution in fullscreen?

i know, the quality is not sharp, but i think you can see that the first pixel row is "damaged".

Oh yes, it looks "damaged" on your pics. On my Benq i see this:

thtX5o5.jpg
 
I think there might be some issues with the fit of the panel to the frame. I noticed mine was in a bit too high. I've RMA'd mine due to dead pixels so hopefully I'll get one without such issues.
 
0.3W per hour right? doesn't that make 2628W per year?

So say I use 10 hr. per day. So the rest of the time is 14 x 0.3W per 24 hr. cycle = 4.2W
so for 1 yr., it sucks up 1533W

that's a lot of electricity, isn't it?

Nop, it's really an insignificant amount considering the time frames we are talking about here, say that your PC spends 500w when you are playing a game, that entire year, would be roughly the equivalent of playing 3 hours.
 
This is the first I've heard of these issues, and they might drive me even more insane than some of the other concerns people have posted. Are others having their windows resize like this when they turn their monitor off and back on? And do you really have to freaking hold onto the power button for 3 seconds to turn off the monitor?? I frequently get up and shut off my monitor when I'm about to leave. After a week of use I'm going to start hating this thing if that's the case.

The Philips has a hard off switch that cuts all power rather than putting it in stand by, so you can just that instead - this will also save you those 0.3 watts the monitor uses when in stand by. The on/off switch is just next to the joystick (and it is made totally different so before anyone asks there is no risk of confusing the two).
 
0.3W per hour right? doesn't that make 2628W per year? So say I use 10 hr. per day. So the rest of the time is 14 x 0.3W per 24 hr. cycle = 4.2W
so for 1 yr., it sucks up 1533Wthat's a lot of electricity, isn't it?
Nop, it's really an insignificant amount considering the time frames we are talking about here, say that your PC spends 500w when you are playing a game, that entire year, would be roughly the equivalent of playing 3 hours.

Indeed 1,5 KWh is insignificant amount per person BUT if millions of people waste it it becomes quite significant amount of energy. The issue is thus about social responsibility.
 
Indeed 1,5 KWh is insignificant amount per person BUT if millions of people waste it it becomes quite significant amount of energy. The issue is thus about social responsibility.

It's still an insignificant amount, because it's still a drop in a very very very very large bucket, I mean don't take this the wrong way a saving is a saving and all that, but the world is not getting saved by those 0.00000x% of energy saved.
 
Yeah that is fair about the power switch, I'd argue it's even less convenient to reach and use, what with being inset inside that little hole but at least they've provided one.

I've now got my UP3214Q back on my desk - what a difference. It looks tiny now, pretty funny given it's a 32" monitor way beyond the size most people use, but the colours just look so vibrant they're practically excessive, it's like I'm drowning in colour - I've gone to turn the colour down on a few occasions but reminded myself this is how I was happy with the monitor for the past year plus. Everything's nice and smooth, there's no streaks where there shouldn't be, every part of the screen is an equal colour and pretty much even brightness, there's no ghosting, no dead pixels and no image persistence either for what it's worth - I can even move it up and down and swivel it round! Luxury :p
The only problem now is returning the Philips in a good enough condition, the packaging is a bit of a nightmare! Though I admit, far less of a nightmare than the packaging the Dell came in...

As for the power efficiency front, it's needless. People running AMD CPUs instead of Intel ones, or AMD GPUs instead of nvidia ones, are wasting tens, if not hundreds of times as much power as a 0.3W standby draw. You could save several times as much power as that by finding a more efficient phone charger, for example, or unplugging your oven and microwave when not using them so the clocks don't come on. Where do you draw the line with power efficiency?
 
Either way, it reminds me of the old CRT TV I had a decade or two ago which had manual dials for brightness, contrast and colour on the outside - when I played games on it [original Playstation, which was 'next gen' at the time!] with the colour knob turned down by mistake, when I put it right, everything seemed way too colourful - that's what I'm seeing now. Nah, sorry guys, I might hate MST with a passion, but I think I'm going to hold onto my Dell for a bit longer...
 
To illustrate BlindZenDriver's point:

HYHGHN9.png

Perfect. Thank you.

I don't understand why there having the joystick and the on/off on the rear of the panel. To me it just means the front is cleaner looks wise, reaching round to the back is pretty easy and to me the joystick works well with the menu - much easier than having separate buttons.

Also I there is the SmartControl software tool you can just install which lets you control pretty much everything using your mouse, colour, brightness, PIP... - it looks like you can even turn off the monitor through use of the tool (there is even some scheduling options for doing it at preset times).
 
Either way, it reminds me of the old CRT TV I had a decade or two ago which had manual dials for brightness, contrast and colour on the outside - when I played games on it [original Playstation, which was 'next gen' at the time!] with the colour knob turned down by mistake, when I put it right, everything seemed way too colourful - that's what I'm seeing now. Nah, sorry guys, I might hate MST with a passion, but I think I'm going to hold onto my Dell for a bit longer...

If you like that look, you should know that when you replace the dell, you will need to replace it with another wide gamut display, since all 8 bit panels will give you the "dull" look.
 
Yeah maybe, thing is the U2312HM is not quite as vivid as the UP3214Q, but still leaps and bounds ahead of the Philips, I don't think that's wide gamut, but reviews seem to praise its colour gamut as being beyond its spec, so who knows. My UP3214Q's predecessor was the 3008WFP which I think was wide-gamut too, something I hadn't paid much attention to but perhaps means more to me than I realised... Either way, as nice as the rich blacks were, I really want that on my TV more than I want it on my PC monitor, and would much rather have wide gamut over deep blacks when playing games, personally.
 
I don't ever turn my monitor off.
It goes to sleep, so why would you want to power it off?

Put a piece of black electrical tape over the light, or open it up and disconnect the LED.

You know, you can use semi-transparent modelling paint. Try semi green, or blue.
 
hello guys!

i have one question to you all ;) can you download the test picture and tell me what you see on your monitor at the native resolution in fullscreen?

http://abload.de/img/pixel_test_rahmen_uhdazutt.jpg

for me it looks unfortunately like this:



i know, the quality is not sharp, but i think you can see that the first pixel row is "damaged".

greats

all I see from the 1st link is a giant black screen.

On your photos, there is 2 blue big dots, is that just the flash on your camera? what did I miss
 
It's still an insignificant amount, because it's still a drop in a very very very very large bucket, I mean don't take this the wrong way a saving is a saving and all that, but the world is not getting saved by those 0.00000x% of energy saved.

Alright, so we don't need to save that kind of $. Now, is it better to turn off the screen, say you went downstair to eat a few pancake for 1/2 hr.? In order to reduce the MTBF of the LCD

or is it better to leave it on, so you don't switch the electronics behind the LCD on and off too often?
 
It's still an insignificant amount, because it's still a drop in a very very very very large bucket, I mean don't take this the wrong way a saving is a saving and all that, but the world is not getting saved by those 0.00000x% of energy saved.
Alright, so we don't need to save that kind of $. Now, is it better to turn off the screen, say you went downstair to eat a few pancake for 1/2 hr.? In order to reduce the MTBF of the LCD or is it better to leave it on, so you don't switch the electronics behind the LCD on and off too often?

The issue here is so called "standby power" problem. If the reach of your vision is not further than the end your nose, the standby power is a nonexisting issue. But if total standby used by the society is looked upon it adds up to 10% of overall electricity consumption which is by no means insignificant. 10% is still not gonna save the world but it is a huge amount as you may find out.
 
I'm not talking of all the standby power on all the devices, neither were you I believe since you quoted the 1.5 yearly kw.
I was talking of the standby power on this specific device, it is enough to look at the tables presented there to see that almost all of the devices presented on that list consume more power in standby/off than this device consumes in standby, some of those like say the DVR assuming that, the power consumption presented there is indicative of the normal DVR which it probably is, 1 hour of having the dvr in standby is equivalent of 5 and half days of having the monitor on standby, even the example they give of an LCD spends almost 3 times as much as this LCD.
It is almost a guarantee that you can make some change in your life that will be far more beneficial to energy consumption, than having the trouble to switch the button on this monitor.

But now lets go to those 10%, which really is just a site saying that, does not mean in any way that it is indicative of the real world, since you would need quite a significant sample from a very significant range of house holds (from different countries to), to even get close to anything that would be remotely accurate.
Assuming those 10% are right, those 10% is for households, which are not where the majority of power usage goes to, industrial and transportation get the lion share of power usage, so those 10% even assuming that household is on average 20% of the power usage (we are being very generous from the numbers that I have seen), those 10% are suddenly 2% of the total power usage, which I believe we can agree it's a very small %.
This is OFC assuming those 10% are in fact correct, and that on average households are responsible for 20% of power consumption, which as far as I can tell does seem like jacking up the numbers.

To clarify I'm not saying people should leave things on if they have the opportunity to turn them off, since as I said before a saving is a saving, merely pointing out, that at the very least in this specific case, the standby power consumption is really in a mathematical and real world way, quite insignificant.

P.S. Please do check the math, I'm a bit sick, and for some reason can't sleep, so there is quite a good chance there is something wrong.
 
all I see from the 1st link is a giant black screen.

On your photos, there is 2 blue big dots, is that just the flash on your camera? what did I miss

Check the file and you'll see that is has a narrow white frame so if Daweed's screen displayed full 3840x2160 his pictures would shown that tiny white frame. Try and grab the file he links to and see for yourself on your screen(s).
 
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Yes...provided your video card supports HDMI 2.0 (GTX 960/970/980).

Doesn't 4:4:4 output get turned off in Game mode though, which you need to be running to get the 21ms or less input lag?

Not trying to be antagonistic or anything, just curious about whether or not info I've gleaned from skimming through the Samsung thread is correct.
 
Phillips cancelled!

I came in for a 40". I came out with a 48". What did I just do...

image.jpg
 
Not a fan of curve. This monitor will eventually end up as the bedroom TV when I inevitably replace it with a quantum dot down the road...
 
PHILIPS BDM4065UC - HIDDEN FACTORY MENU

Has anyone in this thread sucessfully accessed the hidden factory menu on the Philips?
According to the TFT Central review http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/philips_bdm4065uc.htm

"There is a hidden factory menu which can be accessed by holding the joystick left as you turn on the screen. Once on, go into the normal OSD and there's a new section at the bottom. Changes are not advised and are entirely at your own risk."

I've tried the TFT instructions, but I've not had any success. I'd like to try turning off the Philips Boot Logo.

Please reply (or even better, PM me) if anyone knows how to correctly access this hiddden factory menu.

Much appreciated... -JT :)
 
That's because the person reviewing the monitor likely turned the monitor around, so his left is actually the right, so assuming you are facing the panel, you must press the joystick right while turning it on, after that you need to open the menu by pressing right again, and then press up (or several times down), and you will see a new option called factory, press right on that option, and the service menu will open.

Speaking of which according to the service menu, I have been averaging around 10 hours of use since I started using it, so for those worried about image retention, it definitely doesn't seem like it's a common occurrence.

hello guys!

i have one question to you all ;) can you download the test picture and tell me what you see on your monitor at the native resolution in fullscreen?

for me it looks unfortunately like this:

i know, the quality is not sharp, but i think you can see that the first pixel row is "damaged".

greats

Tested this, and from what I can see you are getting that due to viewing angles, you can test this by either moving the head and see if it starts to show the line (test at 0º to the line for example), or you can also test it by placing yourself further from the monitor.
 
That's because the person reviewing the monitor likely turned the monitor around, so his left is actually the right, so assuming you are facing the panel, you must press the joystick right while turning it on, after that you need to open the menu by pressing right again, and then press up (or several times down), and you will see a new option called factory, press right on that option, and the service menu will open.

MANY THANKS MICAEL! Simply moving the joystick right (WRT facing the panel) did the trick.
I've now successfully disabled the boot logo thx to you! :) :) :)
Cheers, -JT
 
For Philips BDM4065UC owners that really miss having convenient side-mounted USB 3.0 ports on their monitor, there is hope!

Shown here is a recent mod I performed on this monitor to bring dual super-sturdy high-quality USB3 ports mounted to the lower left side of the monitor. These ports are flush-mounted (so they do not show when looking straight at the monitor from the front), and are also conveniently angled as they run parallel to the molded rear section of the chassis (see photos for details).

I simply purchased two 10in down-angled USB 3.0 extension cables from USBFireWire.com http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-adaf-xxgr.html and epoxied the heads to a custom-cut piece of clear 1/16in polycarbonate plastic (recycled from a candy box). Six very small micro screws (pulled from an old thumb-sized LED flashlight case) sealed the deal. I had to drill six 1/16in holes in the outer case (barely noticeable) to accept the screw threads. The assembly can also be easily removed or transferred to a replacement monitor if needed. These gold-plated ports are rock solid and function flawlessly. Took about 3 hours of labor to complete.

2015-04-07%2011.12.41.jpg


2015-04-07%2011.22.25.jpg


2015-04-07%2011.14.14.jpg



I hope this inspires others (like me) who really wanted decent functional USB3 ports on this otherwise awesome Philips monitor...

Go for it! :)
-JT

P.S. (EDIT):
For those in the USA still interested in acquiring this monitor but are tired of waiting for the anticipated/delayed Amazon release,
buying on eBay (from Korea) + SquareTrade warranty is still an attractive low-risk option (see my earlier post for how I did it and a few pics of my setup):
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041516130&postcount=2282
:cool:
 
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