Philips BDM4065UC - 40" 4K 60Hz monitor thread

Micael said:
Well saying that it becomes a significant problem when you activate motion blur, is kind of irrelevant IMO, since unless it is a mandatory option in clan matches (or any other form of "casual" competition), I suspect most people caring about their match performance will disable motion blur, personally I don't even active motion blur in SP games, since I completely abhor the effect, granted yes if you care about motion blur, and you wish to keep it on, I suspect 120/144hz will improve things (so will having a better panel really), but it doesn't fix the underlying issue.
Also don't think the laptop comparison is apt here, since you get differences that are unrelated to the refresh rate, I mean I would easily argue that regardless of the refresh rate, if you are playing on say a 15" you are going to have a harder time seeing things, than if you were on a 27" or more, in fact if visibility is the issue, the 40" will for obvious reasons take the lead here.

To clarify have never used a 120/144hz on CS:GO, so it could be the case that in that game this makes such a significant difference in the player performance, as to be the difference between winning and losing matches despite all the other perceived bigger differences.
When I got a 120hz monitor CS:GO didn't exist yet, and they were still being sold for the 3D effect (samsung 2233RZ), but from what I tried back then, I honestly didn't feel like I was performing better because of it, games felt more fluid, but that's about it, there was always far bigger issues at play in matches, like ping and skill difference.
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The point was not about activating motion blur, it was about how badly blur effects your play. At 60hz you get blur, its just a fact, 60hz is not fast enough to allow smooth motion. You cant pinpoint where something is if the frame isnt animated.
 
shadow85 said:
Why do people want to know what a 4K monitor is like at 1440p?

Wouldn't you just use the native 4K resoultion?
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Probably for games given that even systems with multiple high-end GPUs will have trouble pushing 4K resolution with maxed out detail, and some people (myself included) may prefer to sacrifice resolution in order to maintain detail settings.
 
jphughan said:
Probably for games given that even systems with multiple high-end GPUs will have trouble pushing 4K resolution with maxed out detail, and some people (myself included) may prefer to sacrifice resolution in order to maintain detail settings.
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Kinda defeats the purpose though if you have to lower the resolution just to get playable frame rates. I figure anyone who can afford a $1,000 monitor can at least afford a decent multi gpu set up to drive it. Even just a 2 way crossfire of r9 290x can give playable frame rates in just about any game that's well optimized as long as you keep the AA down and maybe turn down the settings one notch from "Ultra" to "High" which gives a negligable impact on image quality in a lot of games.
 
MistaSparkul said:
Kinda defeats the purpose though if you have to lower the resolution just to get playable frame rates. I figure anyone who can afford a $1,000 monitor can at least afford a decent multi gpu set up to drive it. Even just a 2 way crossfire of r9 290x can give playable frame rates in just about any game that's well optimized as long as you keep the AA down and maybe turn down the settings one notch from "Ultra" to "High" which gives a negligable impact on image quality in a lot of games.
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Not true. Some games are so badly optimised for SLI/Crossfire that two or even three high end cards can't get you satisfactory frame rates. Try Assassin's Creed Unity for example. Try Watch Dogs.
 
Naujoks said:
Not true. Some games are so badly optimised for SLI/Crossfire that two or even three high end cards can't get you satisfactory frame rates. Try Assassin's Creed Unity for example. Try Watch Dogs.
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Which is exactly why I said as long as the game is well optimized. For other games sure I guess if you intend to play on day 1 then downing the resolution is the best solution but if you're willing to wait out on all the updates and patches most games become very playable after a while. I remember when Tomb Raider 2013 first launched it was barely playable and now it's one of best running games out there.
 
My monitor has finally arrived from amazon (uk), will let people know later tonight if it works with the humanscale M2 or not.
 
MistaSparkul said:
Kinda defeats the purpose though if you have to lower the resolution just to get playable frame rates. I figure anyone who can afford a $1,000 monitor can at least afford a decent multi gpu set up to drive it. Even just a 2 way crossfire of r9 290x can give playable frame rates in just about any game that's well optimized as long as you keep the AA down and maybe turn down the settings one notch from "Ultra" to "High" which gives a negligable impact on image quality in a lot of games.
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You're assuming someone is buying this display primarily for games. There are people who would love to have the real estate or sheer size awesomeness of a 40" 4K display for general productivity tasks and might want to play games only casually every now and then, in which case they wouldn't want to drop a bunch of coin on a multi-GPU setup, but might still want to know what they should expect when gaming at a lower resolution.

Also, I've never understood the, "If you can afford X, you should also be able to afford Y" mentality. After all, maybe you stretched your budget on expensive and appealing item X and therefore don't have enough cash left over to afford Y as well. Not everyone who has nice, high-end things has the means to buy a bunch of other nice, high-end things in addition. Most people only have so many dollars to work with, so they decide what matters most to them, and sometimes they'll choose to go big in one area they particularly enjoy and cover it by making sacrifices in other areas that aren't as important to them rather than just keeping all of their possessions at the same average level. For example, a buddy of mine just bought a barely used Audi R8 V10 and decided he had to trade in his car to make the numbers work. Does the fact that he now owns that car mean he should also be able to afford a few other cars, a high-end home theater setup, a bunch of expensive suits and watches, and a vacation home? Of course not.
 
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jphughan said:
You're assuming someone is buying this display primarily for games. There are people who would love to have the real estate or sheer size awesomeness of a 40" 4K display for general productivity tasks and might want to play games only casually every now and then, in which case they wouldn't want to drop a bunch of coin on a multi-GPU setup, but might still want to know what they should expect when gaming at a lower resolution.
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Exactly the point that I was going to raise.

Also, I've never understood the, "If you can afford X, you should also be able to afford Y" mentality. After all, maybe you stretched your budget on expensive and appealing item X and therefore don't have enough cash left over to afford Y as well. Not everyone who has nice, high-end things has the means to buy a bunch of other nice, high-end things in addition. Most people only have so many dollars to work with, so they decide what matters most to them, and sometimes they'll choose to go big in one area they particularly enjoy and cover it by making sacrifices in other areas that aren't as important to them rather than just keeping all of their possessions at the same average level. For example, a buddy of mine just bought a barely used Audi R8 V10 and decided he had to trade in his car to make the numbers work. Does the fact that he now owns that car mean he should also be afford a few other cars, a high-end home theater setup, a bunch of expensive suits and watches, and a vacation home? Of course not.
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Please stop bringing common sense into this discussion. It's not always welcomed around here. :p
 
jphughan said:
You're assuming someone is buying this display primarily for games. There are people who would love to have the real estate or sheer size awesomeness of a 40" 4K display for general productivity tasks and might want to play games only casually every now and then, in which case they wouldn't want to drop a bunch of coin on a multi-GPU setup, but might still want to know what they should expect when gaming at a lower resolution.

Also, I've never understood the, "If you can afford X, you should also be able to afford Y" mentality. After all, maybe you stretched your budget on expensive and appealing item X and therefore don't have enough cash left over to afford Y as well. Not everyone who has nice, high-end things has the means to buy a bunch of other nice, high-end things in addition. Most people only have so many dollars to work with, so they decide what matters most to them, and sometimes they'll choose to go big in one area they particularly enjoy and cover it by making sacrifices in other areas that aren't as important to them rather than just keeping all of their possessions at the same average level. For example, a buddy of mine just bought a barely used Audi R8 V10 and decided he had to trade in his car to make the numbers work. Does the fact that he now owns that car mean he should also be afford a few other cars, a high-end home theater setup, a bunch of expensive suits and watches, and a vacation home? Of course not.
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Good Post.
 
Naujoks said:
Not true. Some games are so badly optimised for SLI/Crossfire that two or even three high end cards can't get you satisfactory frame rates. Try Assassin's Creed Unity for example. Try Watch Dogs.
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Depends what you call optimised. I have played many of the latest games @ 4K max detail but no AA and I have 40-50 fps in all the games Watch Dogs included, using SLI 980s.

Some ppl consider anything less than 60fps not optomised, but to me I only need 40fps and it is more than fine.
 
Welp to each his own I'm just stating my opinion on lowering resolution in game to non native but hey if that's what you want to do then by all means. I would just do something else to keep the native res that's all.
 
Just installed the monitor on the Humanscale M2, and got to say I'm a little disappointed with it, it works just fine holding the monitor, however I don't feel the quality is really worth the extra (saying this without having tried the ergotron), the arm itself is ok, does the job well enough, but it has some weird design choices, like requiring one to put a screw to hold the arm to the base, however they put the screw on the back, so if you can't move the table from the wall you pretty much need to mount it all first and only then clamp it to the table.
The screws that came with the arm are truly atrocious, maybe it was a bad batch or something, but I somehow managed to break 1 screw (without even applying anything I would call force), and was able to chew 3 screws (all equal and in the same piece), despite using a set of hex keys far better than what is provided (not hard).
I'm considering returning it just for the principle of it.

As for the monitor itself still have try it properly, but so far quite please with it, the contrast levels are quite nice for a monitor.


richardsim7 said:
How long ago did you order it?
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December 7.
 
Does somebody know if this quite perfect monitor will geht HDMI 2.0 and hdcp 2.2 in the near future?
It would be a shame if in a year you couldnt watch 4k content legally linke 4k bluray or streaming.
 
fightforlife said:
Does somebody know if this quite perfect monitor will geht HDMI 2.0 and hdcp 2.2 in the near future?
It would be a shame if in a year you couldnt watch 4k content legally linke 4k bluray or streaming.
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You should note first that in the monitor world the DisplayPort is primary connector. HDMI is coming from the TV area. It happened so this time that 4K became established on TVs first and then first graphics cards with HDMI 2.0 arrived before the 4K DisplayPort (DP 1.3) was ready which was an attempt to make possible driving of 4K TVs. But DisplayPort is primary connector in the computer area supported by manufacturers which do not want to be depending on the TV area, and thus one can not expect widespread availability of 4K monitors before the DP 1.3 comes. Then, some monitors will get HDMI 2.0 as additional input. In other words, it is entirely unlikely that a monitor would come with old DP 1.2 and HDMI 2.0. So the first question is when the DP 1.3. At present only Seiki announced 4K monitor with DP1.3 / HDM 2.0 will be available in Q2, practically probably in the summer at earliest. Additional problem here is when first graphics cards with the DP 1.3 arrive. I would bet this happens after summer.
 
if the above is true, why is it when my PC boots up, the main display (ASCII text bios screen) appears on my 2nd HDMI screen first, rather than my primary display port 30" 2560x1600 screen?
 
Hey guys I got my BDM4065UC today and compared it to my LG 31MU97

http://postimg.org/image/wx65vt80r/

The first thing I said to myself, was Holy Moly this monitor is HUGE. I fired her up but I noticed straight away with the Philips is how washed out the colors looked in comparison to the LG :( I was quiet dissapointed Tbh.

I was baffeled at the difference in the color quality, I was expecting them to be similar but the LG looks far noticeably better, like night and day difference. Why is this the case?

I loaded up some games (Watch Dogs, Far Cry 4, Evil Withing, DAI, Starcraft 2) and once again the colors were very different in quality, the LG felt alot more realistic, vivid and dark settings looked alot more realistic especially in Evil Within, whilst the Philips was again looking more washed out. The only thing I liked over the LG was the size of the monitor and it felt slightly more responsive and less blurry than the LG. But I need to know if I can get the colors on the Philips to look better? I tried messing around with the SmartImage presets, and the color settings but everything did not look anywhere near as good as the LG. Can someone tell me if there are settings I should try?

I really want to keep the philips because of it's size, but if I cannot get the colors on it looking better I am going to sell it, and most likely lose a few hundred dollars :( I hope people do not get upset with my impressions of this monitor, but it was how I really felt.
 
wirk said:
You should note first that in the monitor world the DisplayPort is primary connector. HDMI is coming from the TV area. It happened so this time that 4K became established on TVs first and then first graphics cards with HDMI 2.0 arrived before the 4K DisplayPort (DP 1.3) was ready which was an attempt to make possible driving of 4K TVs. But DisplayPort is primary connector in the computer area supported by manufacturers which do not want to be depending on the TV area, and thus one can not expect widespread availability of 4K monitors before the DP 1.3 comes. Then, some monitors will get HDMI 2.0 as additional input. In other words, it is entirely unlikely that a monitor would come with old DP 1.2 and HDMI 2.0. So the first question is when the DP 1.3. At present only Seiki announced 4K monitor with DP1.3 / HDM 2.0 will be available in Q2, practically probably in the summer at earliest. Additional problem here is when first graphics cards with the DP 1.3 arrive. I would bet this happens after summer.
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For me its quite irrelevant if it gets hdmi 2.0 or dp 1.3 first. (Ofcourse dp1.3 would be better since it has more bandwith)

The main question is, if exactly this monitor/Panel will ever get HDCP 2.2 ?
 
fightforlife said:
Does somebody know if this quite perfect monitor will geht HDMI 2.0 and hdcp 2.2 in the near future?
It would be a shame if in a year you couldnt watch 4k content legally linke 4k bluray or streaming.
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Nothing has been announced. If those features are important to you, I wouldn't buy this display, because even if it becomes available later (like Seiki has promised with their offering), it's not clear whether units sold before those features were added will be upgradeable somehow. That said, I really do wonder whether 4K Blu-ray (assuming it ever arrives) will require HDCP 2.2. That would surely irritate a lot of 4K TV early adopters (who were already irritated once when Netflix 4K streaming turned out not to support the earliest models), and given how much of a struggle the TV industry has been facing trying to get people to upgrade over the last several years, shutting out their existing installed base seems like an unwise move. HDCP 2.2 could end up being like the Image Constraint Token option on Blu-ray, i.e. something that technically exists in the spec but was never really used.

Happy Hopping said:
if the above is true, why is it when my PC boots up, the main display (ASCII text bios screen) appears on my 2nd HDMI screen first, rather than my primary display port 30" 2560x1600 screen?
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Because your GPU's firmware apparently favors the HDMI port. But why would you think that the behavior of your particular GPU contradicts wirk's correct statements above? DisplayPort is indeed the standard on the PC side partly because unlike HDMI, it doesn't carry any licensing fees, and partly because it's consistently remained ahead of HDMI on bandwidth capacity, and resolution historically has increased in the PC segment before the HDTV segment. That changed this time around since 4K arrived on TVs first and HDMI 2.0 has narrowly beat DP 1.3 to market, but that doesn't change the fact that DP has been and likely will continue to be the standard on the PC side, particularly since DP 1.3 offers enough bandwidth to drive 5K @ 60 Hz, whereas HDMI 2.0 does not; the latter was focused on achieving 4K @ 60 Hz (just to match DP 1.2) and 8K @ 24 Hz using 4:2:0. HDMI 2.0 also does not support daisy-chaining displays, yet another indication that it's designed around a single output rather than a multi-display environment as you'd commonly find in the PC world.
 
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Hey, i know this might sound stupid ! However http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-022-PH&groupid=17&catid=1895
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-BDM4065UC-40-Inch-Monitor-5000/dp/B00OO9YWR0#productDetails

These are definitely the same model ? just before i order one as the marked difference in price is a bit odd. Has anyone experienced ordering from Amazon for this monitor, as the timing seems ridiculous between 1 and 2 months, it just seems so random!

Also reading the other post about the colours being washed out ?! Coming from an Asus Swift i truly hope the colours will not look as washed out as the Swift!

Thanks guys! :)
 
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They are the same, there could be several reasons why this happens, for starters amazon is a ridiculously bigger company than overclockers, which could account for why overclockers still has monitors, then for overclockers selling pc hardware (And peripherals) is what they do, it is not what amazon does, so overclockers will be far more informed about this product and it's desirability than amazon, in fact overclockers even noted that this is their best selling 4k monitor ever, while at amazon I doubt anyone there even bothered to check how well it sells. BTW caseking.de has a better price than overclockers.co.uk and they also have stock.

As someone that very recently got his monitor, I can say that the monitor definitely needs to be adjusted, the blue is way too high by default (For me), and the brightness comes by default at 100%. Also if someone finds some colors washed out is going to depend heavily on the person, since there is a lot of people that like their colors with a coat of vaseline on them (not saying it's his case mind you), which is definitely not the case with this monitor, my experience with monitors is that well calibrated ones, don't tend to make the colors "vibrant", since colors in real live usually are not vibrant (from my experience).

Also unless the user got a faulty unit, the all dark scenes being more realistic on the LG, is almost impossible, since the philips has the best contrast ratio out of any monitor out there by quite a significant margin if I'm not mistaken, the only reason that I can see for this, is the brightness levels at 100% which make the monitor very bright, and need to be toned down to almost half.

Either way colors wise this monitor is factually going to be better than your swift, since color accuracy and so on can be scientifically measured (and it has), now if you like the colors or not is an all different story.
 
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JTB3 said:
With this (and the Philips 40in) monitor, the pixels are not square (e.g. they are not proportionally sized at 1:1 - for reference, nearly all flat-panel monitors are 1:1)

To cut down on panel production costs, the pixels on this monitor are horizontally stretched to a ratio of 1:1.018 - so this will result in images looking wider than they really are, by nearly 2%.

For many of us, this is not too big an issue as the brain will compensate - but for those seriously/professionally involved with graphics, this slight distortion could be an annoyance, or a deal breaker. People will look slightly (2%) fatter and images will appear slightly wider than reality.

The following two links will demonstrate the difference (normal vs stretched):
http://i.imgur.com/9wsgrTb.gif
http://i.imgur.com/4J19WtM.jpg

You can be the judge...
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Did anyone read this on the Seiki thread? This seems like it might be something worth considering when looking at buying one of these large format monitors at the moment
 
It's impossible to know until the monitor is out, or one knows what panel it's using, that being said if the rumors that it's going to use the same panel as the philips are true, then it will have the same problem.
 
Micael said:
They are the same, there could be several reasons why this happens, for starters amazon is a ridiculously bigger company than overclockers, which could account for why overclockers still has monitors, then for overclockers selling pc hardware (And peripherals) is what they do, it is not what amazon does, so overclockers will be far more informed about this product and it's desirability than amazon, in fact overclockers even noted that this is their best selling 4k monitor ever, while at amazon I doubt anyone there even bothered to check how well it sells. BTW caseking.de has a better price than overclockers.co.uk and they also have stock.

As someone that very recently got his monitor, I can say that the monitor definitely needs to be adjusted, the blue is way too high by default (For me), and the brightness comes by default at 100%. Also if someone finds some colors washed out is going to depend heavily on the person, since there is a lot of people that like their colors with a coat of vaseline on them (not saying it's his case mind you), which is definitely not the case with this monitor, my experience with monitors is that well calibrated ones, don't tend to make the colors "vibrant", since colors in real live usually are not vibrant (from my experience).

Also unless the user got a faulty unit, the all dark scenes being more realistic on the LG, is almost impossible, since the philips has the best contrast ratio out of any monitor out there by quite a significant margin if I'm not mistaken, the only reason that I can see for this, is the brightness levels at 100% which make the monitor very bright, and need to be toned down to almost half.

Either way colors wise this monitor is factually going to be better than your swift, since color accuracy and so on can be scientifically measured (and it has), now if you like the colors or not is an all different story.
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Thank you Micael for the great response !! All the information i really needed :) Do you think then ordering from Caseking would be the best bet ? I am guessing since they have stock it will arrive sooner than Amazon even if it is from Germany ( i live in England).
Yes you are correct actually, in real life colours aren't really as vibrant haha we just like it in screens :p Thank you thats reassuring !! I thought the VA panel technology would destroy the Lg's ips display in creating inky black scenes, that's why his post made me start to question l
 
Yes caseking is your best bet, they are a reliable seller since they are even partners with overclockers.co.uk, and they have the best prices from those companies that have stock (that I know of), I would only advise amazon if you are willing to wait quite a while, short of them magically getting a huge supply of them, I just don't see you getting one from them anytime soon, their last stock didn't even cover all the orders, since I had placed a second order on the monitor because the price had dropped, and while my first order (placed on december 7), was satisfied the second one was still given a date between late february and mid march, currently you are getting dates of mid march to mid april, while on caseking you can get the monitor at your home by next week, for a somewhat minimal price difference.

As for the colors I would check the tftcentral review if you haven't already http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/philips_bdm4065uc.htm basically it's a pretty good panel, it's not perfect but no panel are, but if you value contrast, you can hardly do better than a VA panel (in monitors anyway), no matter how good the IPS is, it just can't compete, much like VA can't compete with viewing angles of the IPS, or how neither of these can compete with TN response times.
 
shadow85 said:
I havent calibrated either, but the LG really stands out in terms of image quality and color. Im already thinking of selling the philips.
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Hence you'd have to calibrate both to make it fair. The settings on both will be completely different from each other. It would be very easy to make the Philips look amazing, and the LG look crap ;)
 
I've gone with Amazon UK because their return policy is fantastic so I know if I have any problems, it'll be easy to deal with
 
Yeah without a doubt amazon is amazing in what concerns costumer support, and pretty much the reason why I was willing to wait the 2 months (almost 3 really) to get the monitor, since I wasn't sure I would adjust to the huge monitor, so I wanted it to be as easy as possible to return in case it was needed, and amazon is definitely that, while I have never returned anything, I have had to get a replacement, and they even shipped the replacement item first and I had 30 days to return the old one.

But if you want this monitor in the next month (maybe even 2), amazon is definitely not the way to go.
 
Hey guys,

So I got one of these monitors (Ebay from China). It's pretty cool, but I can't get it to do anything over 30Hz. (Yes, I know, DP 1.2 has to be turned on, the default is 1.1 - I have done that.)

I'm trying this with a GTX 980. I had no problems running a Samsung 40" TV at 4K / 60Hz via HDMI on that card - well, the only issue there was nasty YUV 4:2:0 downsampling, which made me want to get a proper monitor with a DP connector.

Has anyone ran into something like this? Neither Windows nor the Nvidia control panel lets me select anything over 30Hz at the display's native resolution. I looked at the EDID info with CRU, and it seems to have a correct 3840x2160 60Hz mode in it. I have tried replicating that mode in Nvidia's custom resolution utility but that just causes the computer to crash when I press Test.

The monitor is hooked up directly to one of the card's DP outputs with a single cable. I tried a clean driver reinstall, and rebooted more than in the past 5 years put together.

Any thoughts? I tried Nvidia support but they're just blaming Philips.
 
Micael said:
Yeah without a doubt amazon is amazing in what concerns costumer support, and pretty much the reason why I was willing to wait the 2 months (almost 3 really) to get the monitor, since I wasn't sure I would adjust to the huge monitor, so I wanted it to be as easy as possible to return in case it was needed, and amazon is definitely that, while I have never returned anything, I have had to get a replacement, and they even shipped the replacement item first and I had 30 days to return the old one.

But if you want this monitor in the next month (maybe even 2), amazon is definitely not the way to go.
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I'm guessing it will be hard to return if anything did go wrong with Caseking ? However isn't there an RMA process with Philips themselves if something happens to go wrong? Actually wait if they are partners with Overclockers, shouldnt Overclockers be able to price match it ?? As on Caseking i worked out the monitor with shipping, costs around £603.
 
Lasorous said:
I'm guessing it will be hard to return if anything did go wrong with Caseking ? However isn't there an RMA process with Philips themselves if something happens to go wrong? Actually wait if they are partners with Overclockers, shouldnt Overclockers be able to price match it ?? As on Caseking i worked out the monitor with shipping, costs around £603.
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I'm sure they are just fine at handling warranty issues, I was mainly talking about returning it because you didn't like it, RMA processes I suspect are a non issue regardless of who you go with, since even if the store was awful with that sort of stuff philips is an European company, so there is likely to not be much in the way of problems with returning the item to philips if such a case ever did arise.

martona said:
Hey guys,

So I got one of these monitors (Ebay from China). It's pretty cool, but I can't get it to do anything over 30Hz. (Yes, I know, DP 1.2 has to be turned on, the default is 1.1 - I have done that.)

I'm trying this with a GTX 980. I had no problems running a Samsung 40" TV at 4K / 60Hz via HDMI on that card - well, the only issue there was nasty YUV 4:2:0 downsampling, which made me want to get a proper monitor with a DP connector.

Has anyone ran into something like this? Neither Windows nor the Nvidia control panel lets me select anything over 30Hz at the display's native resolution. I looked at the EDID info with CRU, and it seems to have a correct 3840x2160 60Hz mode in it. I have tried replicating that mode in Nvidia's custom resolution utility but that just causes the computer to crash when I press Test.

The monitor is hooked up directly to one of the card's DP outputs with a single cable. I tried a clean driver reinstall, and rebooted more than in the past 5 years put together.

Any thoughts? I tried Nvidia support but they're just blaming Philips.
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All I had to do was select the DP 1.2 and then I went to nvidia control panel and in the change resolution, I selected the refresh rate of 60hz and it all started working at 60hz, before doing that in the nvidia control panel the monitor was still at 30hz though.
 
martona said:
Hey guys,

So I got one of these monitors (Ebay from China). It's pretty cool, but I can't get it to do anything over 30Hz. (Yes, I know, DP 1.2 has to be turned on, the default is 1.1 - I have done that.)

I'm trying this with a GTX 980. I had no problems running a Samsung 40" TV at 4K / 60Hz via HDMI on that card - well, the only issue there was nasty YUV 4:2:0 downsampling, which made me want to get a proper monitor with a DP connector.

Has anyone ran into something like this? Neither Windows nor the Nvidia control panel lets me select anything over 30Hz at the display's native resolution. I looked at the EDID info with CRU, and it seems to have a correct 3840x2160 60Hz mode in it. I have tried replicating that mode in Nvidia's custom resolution utility but that just causes the computer to crash when I press Test.

The monitor is hooked up directly to one of the card's DP outputs with a single cable. I tried a clean driver reinstall, and rebooted more than in the past 5 years put together.

Any thoughts? I tried Nvidia support but they're just blaming Philips.
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As mentioned above, you probably need a different DP cable. Others have been unable to run 4K @ 60 Hz due to old/crappy cables and fixed it by getting a new, proper cable certified for DP 1.2 / HBR2. Surprisingly, most of the DP cables sold at Monoprice still only support 1.1, but they do have one DP to DP cable and one DP to MiniDP cable that supports 1.2.
 
richardsim7 said:
Hence you'd have to calibrate both to make it fair. The settings on both will be completely different from each other. It would be very easy to make the Philips look amazing, and the LG look crap ;)
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I really don't think so. The LG has a true 10 bit AH-IPS panel with a wide color gamut, the Philips is a 8 bit panel with a standard gamut.

But I am going to play around with the settings a bit more on the Philips. Only problem is I don't have a calibrator nor have I ever used one.
 
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