New Power Supply soon?

Nobu

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My computer powered off unexpectedly and without warning yesterday. I went into the bathroom and noticed that the GFCI outlet had been tripped so I thought maybe there was a surge or something that had caused it(However unlikely that may be, it is possible. The power to the outlet powering my computer, however, was not cut).

So, putting a little more thought into it, I checked the voltages using the command line tool sensors and it seems they're a little off:
VCore 1: +1.09 V (min = +4.08 V, max = +4.08 V)
VCore 2: +1.22 V (min = +4.08 V, max = +4.08 V)
+3.3V: +3.28 V (min = +4.08 V, max = +4.08 V)
+5V: +4.97 V (min = +6.85 V, max = +6.85 V)
+12V: +11.97 V (min = +16.32 V, max = +16.32 V)
-12V: -12.76 V (min = +3.93 V, max = +3.93 V)
-5V: -8.44 V (min = +4.03 V, max = +4.03 V)
Stdby: +4.84 V (min = +6.85 V, max = +6.85 V)
VBat: +2.99 V
You can safely ignore the min/max values, they're probably wrong as I have not set them; they were auto detected.

Anyway, could the detected values have contributed to the failure of my computer and should I replace the PSU soon? It hasn't gone down again, but I don't want to take any chances if there is a danger of it doing so.

According to the label on the side of the PSU it is a Power Man IP-P350AJ2-0.
It came with the case I'm currently using. The system is the one in my signature.
 

Redbeard

Official Corsair Rep.
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According to the label on the side of the PSU it is a Power Man IP-P350AJ2-0.
It came with the case I'm currently using. The system is the one in my signature.

It's hard to trust software utilities, because they rely on the sensors on the motherboard, which are usually very, very cheap and can be insanely inaccurate. A multimeter is the only real way to test.

That being said, keep in mind that the spec is +/- 5%, which means on the +12V rail, anything from 11.4V to 12.6V is acceptable, for example. 11.97 wouldn't be bad.

However, your -5V rail would be way out of spec if it's right. But my suspicion is that it's not right, most new PSUs don't even have a -5V rail, it kind of stopped being used around the ATX 2.0 days.
 

Nobu

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The motherboard wasn't the most expensive, so I wouldn't be surprised if it has cheap sensors, but before when I checked with that program it was pretty close to the correct values for each(+/-.02), and it's not far off now either. I was really concerned with the -5V being where it is, but since it's not usually used I guess I don't really have to worry about it.

I think they aren't that far off though, if they are cheap sensors. Because the vcore does go up when my processor scales up, just the second vcore stays where it is constantly... Kinda weird but doesn't bother me too much, I'm not paying the bills. x.x
 

Nobu

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There's your problem. Get a new PSU, fast.

Is it that bad? It hasn't blown up on power on like some of those posts in this thread...Yet.

I found something funny though. I did a google search on the model number and came up with an InWin PSU. They're made by the same manufacturer maybe? A lot of the reviews said that the +5V sagged. Doesn't make a difference for now though, as long as it doesn't fry my computer some day I'll be happy. As soon as I get a job though I'm going to get a replacement, as some of those posts in these threads are down-right scary. lol
 

Nobu

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Seems like they don't make the best power supplies, but also seems that he encourages you to get one with the model number that mine has(IP-P350AJ2-0) or another... if you get one of their cases that is.

Consider those models that have the letters IP, not IW, in the name.
Mine has IP.
but this test session has shown that it’s stupid to buy the system case with the IW-P430J2-0 with its false 430W. Choosing between the 300W and 350W models (IP-P300AJ2-0 and IP-P350AJ2-0, respectively), you can go for the junior one without losing in anything.
IW-P430J2-0 = bad because of false 430W rating.
Among the boxed power supplies from In-Win you should pay attention to the models with the letters IP in their name, too. I can’t say they are interesting products, but they may suit an undemanding user due to their low price. They have acceptable parameters and average level of noise and are surely superior in the quality of manufacture to many even cheaper brands.
IP = uninteresting...mid-range, low price, good for undemanding user. Better than cheaper brands(Not necessarily a pro... I wouldn't get anything cheaper than one of these anyway, as I would rather a more reliable one and this is already cheap).
 

Nobu

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What a pathetic psu.. no combined 12v figures, and total combined wattage of 385w..

Corsair VX 450.

You mean this one? It's 450VX.

I had looked at it but it's a little expensive and maybe a little more than I need. Although the one I listed earlier had no PCI-E connectors, I don't know if the video card I'm using even needs one(Didn't see one, but I didn't look hard either).

There aren't too many bad reviews for the FSP and it seems like a pretty good supply for the price. I wanted to see if it was, not have it thrown on the ground, spat at, and then have a different, $30 more expensive, power supply thrown in my face.

I'm sure it's a good supply, but unless my system(In my sig) needs it I still think it's overkill.
 

Bbq

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You mean this one? It's 450VX.

I had looked at it but it's a little expensive and maybe a little more than I need. Although the one I listed earlier had no PCI-E connectors, I don't know if the video card I'm using even needs one(Didn't see one, but I didn't look hard either).

There aren't too many bad reviews for the FSP and it seems like a pretty good supply for the price. I wanted to see if it was, not have it thrown on the ground, spat at, and then have a different, $30 more expensive, power supply thrown in my face.

I'm sure it's a good supply, but unless my system(In my sig) needs it I still think it's overkill.

It's significantly better; Only at newegg is it $69. At ClubIT, it's $51.

The FSP, I have no doubt about the quality; it's the power it can put out. It's only got 385w for the +3.3, +5, and +12v. It's group regulated. +3.3 and +5v cannot exceed 115w (meaning +12v rails cannot exceed 22.5a combined, at full load). It doesn't have ActivePFC. It's not 80+ efficiency.

The Corsair, It's 33a for the 12v rails (which is what's important). It's quiet and efficient. It's got ActivePFC.

If you're not too fond of rebates, that XClio stablepower 460 for $50 as posted by Danny Bui is also a good choice.
 

Nobu

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I recommend getting this PSU instead:
XCLIO Goodpower 500W PSU - $50

It's a decent PSU. Or if you want even more quality, then I recommend this Enhance made PSU:
XCLIO Stablepower 460W PSU - $50

Enhance makes some pretty good PSUs and I doubt that the Stablepower is anything less.
Thanks, those look pretty good for the price.
The second one is better because it has a longer MTBF, better efficiency, and a larger fan?
I don't see a switch on the second one either, does it automatically choose the correct input?
It's significantly better; Only at newegg is it $69. At ClubIT, it's $51.

The FSP, I have no doubt about the quality; it's the power it can put out. It's only got 385w for the +3.3, +5, and +12v. It's group regulated. +3.3 and +5v cannot exceed 115w (meaning +12v rails cannot exceed 22.5a combined, at full load). It doesn't have ActivePFC. It's not 80+ efficiency.

The Corsair, It's 33a for the 12v rails (which is what's important). It's quiet and efficient. It's got ActivePFC.

If you're not too fond of rebates, that XClio stablepower 460 for $50 as posted by Danny Bui is also a good choice.
Thanks for the more detailed reasoning behind your choice. Although I did understand it was better, I didn't know how it was or why it warranted that much of a price increase, besides the fact that it has 450W output. I don't mind rebates, but would rather not go through the hassle of paying full price then mailing a paper to them for money back. Just doesn't strike me as making much sense(And even fewer cents).

I don't know what PFC is though, guess I should check out a description somewhere. I'm going to see if I can find one for myself. If you feel like posting one, that would be nice as well. ^.^

Edit: As the one I currently have is advertised to output 350W, and may actually output less, I think the 385W output would be enough. And I had seen it before(In the picture on newegg of the label on the side), but I figured the difference wasn't much.

Edit2: Active PFC(Power Factor Correction), corrects the power factor so that it is closer to 1 and helps electric companies and consumers to save money. Not an exact quote or anything, just pieced it together from what I read. Basically helps to reduce waste during transmission of power. (learned from the great wikipedia. lol)
 

Dangman

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Thanks, those look pretty good for the price.
The second one is better because it has a longer MTBF, better efficiency, and a larger fan?
I don't see a switch on the second one either, does it automatically choose the correct input?

I don't know what PFC is though, guess I should check out a description somewhere. I'm going to see if I can find one for myself. If you feel like posting one, that would be nice as well. ^.^
.

That 115/230 input voltage switch or the lack of switch has something to do with PFC. Here in the U.S, we require 115V, in Europe, 230V. That Stablepower has Active PFC, which means it automatically detects which input voltage to use. A PSU with the switch means it only has PFC, not Active PFC. Thats the gist of it.

If I've got it wrong, please correct me.

Anyway, I still recommend the Stablepower 460W. It's a decent and pretty good quality PSU with 27A on the +12V rail. It's also has 80+ efficiency.
 

Nobu

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That 115/230 input voltage switch or the lack of switch has something to do with PFC. Here in the U.S, we require 115V, in Europe, 230V. That Stablepower has Active PFC, which means it automatically detects which input voltage to use. A PSU with the switch means it only has PFC, not Active PFC. Thats the gist of it.

If I've got it wrong, please correct me.

Anyway, I still recommend the Stablepower 460W. It's a decent and pretty good quality PSU with 27A on the +12V rail. It's also has 80+ efficiency.

Yeah, there was something about it on wikipedia about it. umm... Here it is:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_power_factor_correction said:
Due to their very wide input voltage range, many power supplies with active PFC can automatically adjust to operate on AC power from about 100 V (Japan) to 240 V (UK).
Oh, I keep forgetting to ask... If a fan goes out in a power supply, how hard would it be to replace?
 

Bbq

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A fan isn't hard to replace at all; You can either mail it in and get a new one, or you can void the warranty, cut the wires going to the current fan, and wire it appropriatly to the new fan. Color coded for ease.
 

mavalpha

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As BBQ said, it's fairly easy. However, you will void your warranty on it, and you have to be very careful when doing so. The capacitors inside of PSU's can store a very high charge, even when the supply has been left unplugged for a long time. It's too easy to shock yourself if you don't know what you are doing.
 
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