NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

mcbirds said:
Yeah I originally went with two more fans in the bottom of the case and it made no real big difference in the temps. It actually just ended up causing the fans to make weird sounds at high speeds from the turbulence.
Click to expand...
That's the reason why I've elected just to have an exhaust and a cpu cooler fan. I want to start minimal and move up if I need. I did plan for more and bought them, but I'll not be crying if I don't need to use them.
 
RIRed48 said:
Very cool rig, wow.... :)

That screw you show that you shortened, that's the size of the one that I head-stripped, which makes it that much harder to get out. (how small it is).

Love those CableMod cables...sweet. Considering those, esp after I have looked at and felt the stiffness of the stock Corsair PSU cables and how much too long they are...sheesh...
Click to expand...

I know!! I feel for you... I was looking at your situation and brainstorming. Perhaps another option is to go and find an IEC C13 chassis panel mount and just cut up the one that's stuck.
The plastic should be soft enough to cut up with and x-acto knife right?

rfarmer said:
Very nice looking build, nice to see some more WC builds. Was there a reason you mounted the rad at the bottom vs the side, window?
Click to expand...

Honestly - I went with a bottom rad purely out of vanity. In my mind, there is no contest with a side rad with its ample breathing room and space for regular fans for decent cooling.
But then I wouldn't get to look at my (frankly unjustifiable) expensive water cooling "stuff". It's a bit sad, but I've accepted that my original air/AIO setup will likely perform the same as this far more expensive option. I did order some slightly taller case feet to give the rad more breathing room, and I might even trim down the radiator shroud to try and do slim push/pull at a later stage.
 
Mackan said:
While it works, what rpm are you running the bottom slim fans on? I guess there is no chance they can be considered quiet under load?
Click to expand...

Honestly, this build is brand new. I've leak tested and attempted to flush the bubbles out. Aside from my dazzling chrome tab game... this build hasn't done a thing.

As far as noise goes - the pump is amazingly quiet. I can't tell it's on unless I touch it.It's running at about 2000rpm. Even at full speed its not an issue.

The fans are close enough to being inaudible at 1000rpm. At ~1200 I hear quiet computer noise. ~1500 definately fan action and above that its fair to say its noisy.

For reference, I'm sitting about 11 inches away with the computer on the desk.


I'll update you guys down the track.
 
Got the stripped screw out.... blasted it out w/drill..... no prisoners.

I have 2 Vardar F4-120ER and 2 Noctua NF-F12... to replace the stock fans on the Corsair H100i V1 AIO... use which ones? For exhausting the air. From the outside of the case looking in, I should see the case radiator bracket, the radiator, and the 2 Vardar or Noctua fans in that order, correct?

For now, no other fans for cooling. If I use the Vardars, I can't tell which way the air flows thru....

Confused (what else is new) how to attach the fans to the radiator, and then to the case radiator bracket...anyone w/ details.

Thx.
 
RIRed48 said:
Got the stripped screw out.... blasted it out w/drill..... no prisoners.

I have 2 Vardar F4-120ER and 2 Noctua NF-F12... to replace the stock fans on the Corsair H100i V1 AIO... use which ones? For exhausting the air. From the outside of the case looking in, I should see the case radiator bracket, the radiator, and the 2 Vardar or Noctua fans in that order, correct?

For now, no other fans for cooling. If I use the Vardars, I can't tell which way the air flows thru....

Confused (what else is new) how to attach the fans to the radiator, and then to the case radiator bracket...anyone w/ details.

Thx.
Click to expand...

Your H100i should have come with 2 sets of radiator screws, like .25" and 1.25" I think. Anyway attach the radiator to the fan bracket with the .25" screws and put the 1.25" through the fan and into the radiator.

Glad to hear you got the screw out.
 
LuckyIrishLife said:
Ok, so this is my revised build
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 (remove both 140mm fans) add 120mm NH-F12 Industrial 2000RPM PWM with Red Chromax Bumpers underneath C14
Case Fans:
2 120mm NH-F12 Industrial 2000RPM PWM fans with Red Chromax Bumpers for the side (1 pulling air in over the C14, the other pushing air out) with Red Chromax Bumpers

Going for a Red, White, and Black theme.
Debating white or red chromax bumpers for the industrial all black noctua fans, might do a mix of 2 red and 2 white, etc.

Anyone have a 92mm PWM Noctua equivalent that would go better with my color scheme?

I suppose I could always attempt the Noctua color mod by using dye to the color the 92mm fan how I want.
Click to expand...
Have you looked at the Noctua REDUX series?
Fans - Products

I switched to the Noctua REDUX series (92 mm PWM 4-pin fan upgrade) for HP Slimline case (5000 series).
Complements the black case sides and newest Seasonic TFX power supply.

Seasonic introduced the "consumer black" version of their TFX-350 power supply,
SO the last HP 5000 series case that I finished has that newer model.
TFX-350 - Sea Sonic

greg
 
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RIRed48 said:
Got the stripped screw out.... blasted it out w/drill..... no prisoners.

I have 2 Vardar F4-120ER and 2 Noctua NF-F12... to replace the stock fans on the Corsair H100i V1 AIO... use which ones? For exhausting the air. From the outside of the case looking in, I should see the case radiator bracket, the radiator, and the 2 Vardar or Noctua fans in that order, correct?

For now, no other fans for cooling. If I use the Vardars, I can't tell which way the air flows thru....

Confused (what else is new) how to attach the fans to the radiator, and then to the case radiator bracket...anyone w/ details.

Thx.
Click to expand...

I don't have Vardars, but generally fans blow air out the side that has the struts which support the motor.
 
w9gb said:
Have you looked at the Noctua REDUX series?
Fans - Products

I switched to this Noctua series for 92 mm PWM fan upgrade for HP Slimline case (5000 series).
Complements the black case sides and newest Seasonic power supplies

Seasonic introduced the "consumer black" version of their TFX-350 power supply,
SO the last HP 5000 series case that I finished has that newer model.
TFX-350 - Sea Sonic

greg
Click to expand...

How would you mount a TFX power supply in the M1?
 
Qrash said:
How would you mount a TFX power supply in the M1?
Click to expand...
Non Sequeter.

Primary answer was about Noctua fans (color) ... which I used in two HP Slimline case upgrades (those cases use TFX).

I have an NCASE M1, sitting on the shelf. IMHO -- Silverstone "struck out" for SFX usage (Quiet HTPC).

For the NCASE SFX : I am evaluating the Seasonic industrial SSP-300SFG Active PFC (wattage not what I desired) and
Corsair SF Series (SF-450). The Corsair appears to be an OEM build from Greatwall .
Corsair SF450 450W Review

Tom's Hardware Review
Corsair SF450 PSU Review

greg
 
w9gb said:
Non Sequeter.

Primary answer was about Noctua fans (color) ... which I used in two HP Slimline case upgrades (those cases use TFX).

I have an NCASE M1, sitting on the shelf. IMHO -- Silverstone "struck out" for SFX usage (Quiet HTPC).

For the NCASE SFX : I am evaluating the Seasonic industrial SSP-300SFG Active PFC (wattage not what I desired) and
Corsair SF Series (SF-450). The Corsair appears to be an OEM build from Greatwall .
Corsair SF450 450W Review

Tom's Hardware Review
Corsair SF450 PSU Review

greg
Click to expand...

Can't beat Jonny Guru's power supply reviews: Corsair SF450 450W Review
 
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rfarmer said:
Your H100i should have come with 2 sets of radiator screws, like .25" and 1.25" I think. Anyway attach the radiator to the fan bracket with the .25" screws and put the 1.25" through the fan and into the radiator.

Glad to hear you got the screw out.
Click to expand...


Thanks.
 
So, Vardars or the Noctuas on the radiator?

I was going to put 2 120's for intake at the bottom of case. But when I put the 1080-FE down there, the fans are pretty much completely blocked by the vid card...So, I won't unless someone talks me into it.

I didn't bother getting a slim profile 92mm fan for the rear...several folks at different sites said that it doesn't do enough. Maybe they had no idea and were just repeating internet 'truths'.

Oh, the Varders... which way does the air flow on them? Toward the middle label side?

Oh, these damn Corsair PS cables... so stiff and long.
 
Chapeau said:
I think this has progressed to full obsession. . .

Started off with a fairly basic build with a DH-9L and a kraken x31 for cooling. The NZXT software however was horrible! - memory hog, random crashes and then totally locking up the computer. Not to mention no control of pump speed.. randomly silent or super noisy.

Then I succumbed to my vanity and replaced the Noctua fans with a nice blue Silverstone set to match my cablemod cables. Unfortunately their high minimum speed meant they were always noisy.

Now - after 2 days of fitting, filing and cutting I'm done with a custom loop.
Click to expand...

I wanted to do the same WC setup. What temps are you getting with the bottom thin radiator and thin fans?
 
RIRed48 said:
So, Vardars or the Noctuas on the radiator?

I was going to put 2 120's for intake at the bottom of case. But when I put the 1080-FE down there, the fans are pretty much completely blocked by the vid card...So, I won't unless someone talks me into it.

I didn't bother getting a slim profile 92mm fan for the rear...several folks at different sites said that it doesn't do enough. Maybe they had no idea and were just repeating internet 'truths'.

Oh, the Varders... which way does the air flow on them? Toward the middle label side?

Oh, these damn Corsair PS cables... so stiff and long.
Click to expand...

Towards the big label on the back. You'll see the wires coming from the fan hub on this side.
 
RIRed48 said:
So, Vardars or the Noctuas on the radiator?

I was going to put 2 120's for intake at the bottom of case. But when I put the 1080-FE down there, the fans are pretty much completely blocked by the vid card...So, I won't unless someone talks me into it.

I didn't bother getting a slim profile 92mm fan for the rear...several folks at different sites said that it doesn't do enough. Maybe they had no idea and were just repeating internet 'truths'.

Oh, the Varders... which way does the air flow on them? Toward the middle label side?

Oh, these damn Corsair PS cables... so stiff and long.
Click to expand...
Air usually comes out the side with spokes.
 
IMG_1271b.jpg


Most fans also have an arrow showing flow direction.
 
Hmmm...I've added a side 120mm fan and put the rear 140mm fan back onto the C14. Prime95 regular now never breaks 60C on the hottest. I have two core running hotter than the other ones but at these temps I don't think there's anything to worry about. The 2695 v3 is incredible - I'm installing a dozen apps concurrently and the cpu load barely breaks 20%.

At 100% blower power the Titan X is actually in the low 70s - accordingly I've tweaked the curve so that the blower goes straight to 100% after 70C. I can hold these temps in boost clock - but OC is still probably out of the question.

The weird thing is that my system won't post with the 32g*2 sticks in bios 3.10 (I had 16g sticks in there previously). I had to upgrade to the 3.40 beta of the X99 itx to get it to work. Tested the ram and everything seems to work fine - is a beta version of the bios anything to worry about?
 
rfarmer said:
IMG_1271b.jpg


Most fans also have an arrow showing flow direction.
Click to expand...

Yes, I knew that, thanks. The Noctuas have the arrow but not the Vardars afaik.

Oh, I forgot to mention and I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else... I had put the 1080-FE in the MB slot to see how most items fit, etc. When I went to take the nVidia out it got really hung-up/caught on a little plastic lip on the end of the card where the power connectors are. I was barely able to get the card out... what the heck?
 
RIRed48 said:
Yes, I knew that, thanks. The Noctuas have the arrow but not the Vardars afaik.

Oh, I forgot to mention and I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else... I had put the 1080-FE in the MB slot to see how most items fit, etc. When I went to take the nVidia out it got really hung-up/caught on a little plastic lip on the end of the card where the power connectors are. I was barely able to get the card out... what the heck?
Click to expand...

This is entirely normal. At the end of the slot is a Retention Clip, designed to hold long heavy cards, like modern graphics cards, more securely. The design varies, but here is a photo of the clip on an Asus Z170I Pro Gaming, which I think is your motherboard. The clip is within the red oval. All you have to do to release the clip is press on the curved portion, as indicated by the purple arrow.

 
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Qrash said:
This is entirely normal. At the end of the slot is a Retention Clip, designed to hold long heavy cards like modern graphics cards more securely. The design varies, but here is a photo of the clip on an Asus Z170I Pro Gaming, which I think is your motherboard. The clip is within the red oval. All you have to do to release the clip is press on the curved portion, as indicated by the purple arrow.

Click to expand...

Oh geez, did not know(or forgot)...thx.
 
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Just want to run through my selection before buying a bunch of non-returnables.

* Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Not overclocked)
* Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler

* Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
OR
* Asus MAXIMUS VIII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
* G.Skill Aegis 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory

* Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
* Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (Blower style)

* Sony BC-5640H-01 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer


Cooling:
- PSU mounted to bring in its own air air exhaust out the top.
- NH-C14 should JUUUUUST fit and source air directly from the side. (Or should it exhaust out the side?)
- Fan on bottom running ~900RPM to help source air from the bottom to the GFX cards blower.
- SSD snuggled in somewhere. Doesn't really need any cooling anyways.


Any potential issues?
 
Qrash said:
Actually, looking at the photo again, maybe you pull on the curved piece to pull the locking pin back. Have a look at yours and figure out how it works.
Click to expand...

On the Z170i you press the little curved lever down not up. (Looks like it should go up though right!!)

I give the card a wiggle to set it loose, then give the lever a push down (If the computer case is standing upright, then I mean the lever pushes down towards the ground) and the card tension keeps it from re-engaging.
 
uminded said:
Just want to run through my selection before buying a bunch of non-returnables.

* Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Not overclocked)
* Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler

* Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
OR
* Asus MAXIMUS VIII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
* G.Skill Aegis 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory

* Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
* Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (Blower style)

* Sony BC-5640H-01 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer


Cooling:
- PSU mounted to bring in its own air air exhaust out the top.
- NH-C14 should JUUUUUST fit and source air directly from the side. (Or should it exhaust out the side?)
- Fan on bottom running ~900RPM to help source air from the bottom to the GFX cards blower.
- SSD snuggled in somewhere. Doesn't really need any cooling anyways.


Any potential issues?
Click to expand...

6700K: 4 cores plus Hyper-Threading, Base = 4.0 GHz, Turbo = 4.2 GHz, 91W. If you don't want to overclock the 6700 (non-K) is rated at only 65W, still has Hyper-Threading, but lower clock speeds: Base = 3.4 GHz, Turbo = 4.0 GHz and costs up to $25 less. If Hyper-Threading isn't necessary then you have more choices such as the Core i5 6600 (again non-K for no overclocking): 65W, Base = 3.3 GHz, Turbo = 3.9 GHz, for almost $100 less than the 6700K.

Put your SSD on the inside of the front panel of the frame.

Your optical drive will need a SATA to Slim SATA power adapter. The SX600-G doesn't come with one. If you are really set on this Silverstone PS, consider the PP05-E short cable set. All of the PP05-E cables are shorter than the ones that come with the SX600-G, except for the 24 pin ATX cable, plus it includes a Slim SATA power connector on one of the cables. Unfortunately, that cable also has two 4-pin Molex connectors which you may not need. I bought the PP05-E to reduce cable lengths and bought a SATA to Slim SATA adapter separately. Someone must know how to move the Slim SATA connector from the cable that has the Molex connectors to one of the other two SATA cables.

Why the Silverstone SX600-G instead of the Corsair PS? You could probably use a 450W unit and Corsair SF450 has been getting good reviews, including the one by Jonny Guru last week (scored 9.9 out of 10).
 
Qrash said:
If you don't want to overclock the 6700 (non-K) is rated at only 65W, still has Hyper-Threading
Click to expand...
For the extra $25 the K is an easy buy, sometimes they go on sale for the same price even. However I have been reading that the 91W K version is pushing the thermal envelope of the M1 case a bit so that will be my ultimate decider. I figured the NH-C14 blowing out would be able to handle the 91W load better.


Qrash said:
Why the Silverstone SX600-G instead of the Corsair PS?
Click to expand...
Chose the Silverstone for the 0rpm idle feature. Will look at the Corsair version, thanks. I also have the Molex crimp tool and pins, sockets, etc so I can easily custom size my cables.
 
uminded said:
For the extra $25 the K is an easy buy, sometimes they go on sale for the same price even. However I have been reading that the 91W K version is pushing the thermal envelope of the M1 case a bit so that will be my ultimate decider. I figured the NH-C14 blowing out would be able to handle the 91W load better.



Chose the Silverstone for the 0rpm idle feature. Will look at the Corsair version, thanks. I also have the Molex crimp tool and pins, sockets, etc so I can easily custom size my cables.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have a good idea of what you need. The only negative I've read about the Corsair power supplies is that the cables are stiffer than Silverstone's. Good luck with your build!
 
uminded said:
For the extra $25 the K is an easy buy, sometimes they go on sale for the same price even. However I have been reading that the 91W K version is pushing the thermal envelope of the M1 case a bit so that will be my ultimate decider. I figured the NH-C14 blowing out would be able to handle the 91W load better.


Chose the Silverstone for the 0rpm idle feature. Will look at the Corsair version, thanks. I also have the Molex crimp tool and pins, sockets, etc so I can easily custom size my cables.
Click to expand...
The Corsair SF PSU also has the 0 RPM idle mode...

I've also read that the fans on the Silverstone react according to load, rather than temperature, the way the Corsair does. I have the SF600 and haven't really heard it yet. To be honest, my PC is in the lounge, and the fridge in my apartment, across the room drowns out the sound of my PC. I haven't really heard anything coming from it. Maybe I should unplug the fridge to test it :sneaky:
 
Okay so I thought I should post a PSA about noise and temperatures for the bottom rad only build. . .

In short: HORRIFIC

1) The slim Silverstone fans (FW 121) just don't have the grunt to drive air through the radiator. Even with the case on its side, very little air moves through the rad even at full fan speed.
2) The issue of lack of bottom vents + low clearance to the bottom of the case may also impact temperatures. However, the first issue really prevents any meaningful experimentation.
For example - I tried elevating the entire case on blocks to about 1 1/2 inches, but the lack of flow meant that temperatures didn't drop beyond a few degrees Celsius.

My actual temperatures:

Idle: CPU ~ 28 deg
GPU ~ 30 deg

Load: CPU ~ 75 deg
GPU ~ 56 deg

Strangely, there is quite a big difference between processor temperatures. This is something that I'll need to look into (Improperly bled waterblock? Poor TIM application?). I'm open to suggestions and help on this one! Please!! (y)

Compared to air cooling, CPU temp has jumped 15 degrees with the only consolation being the GPU temp which is better than AIO. Actually if I could get both temps in this range I'd be quite happy.

Finally in terms of noise - It's not a happy story. Subjectively it's no worse than a loud laptop fan, but it's not what you want from a rather expensive build.
 
Chapeau said:
Okay so I thought I should post a PSA about noise and temperatures for the bottom rad only build. . .

In short: HORRIFIC

1) The slim Silverstone fans (FW 121) just don't have the grunt to drive air through the radiator. Even with the case on its side, very little air moves through the rad even at full fan speed.
2) The issue of lack of bottom vents + low clearance to the bottom of the case may also impact temperatures. However, the first issue really prevents any meaningful experimentation.
For example - I tried elevating the entire case on blocks to about 1 1/2 inches, but the lack of flow meant that temperatures didn't drop beyond a few degrees Celsius.

My actual temperatures:

Idle: CPU ~ 28 deg
GPU ~ 30 deg

Load: CPU ~ 75 deg
GPU ~ 56 deg

Strangely, there is quite a big difference between processor temperatures. This is something that I'll need to look into (Improperly bled waterblock? Poor TIM application?). I'm open to suggestions and help on this one! Please!! (y)

Compared to air cooling, CPU temp has jumped 15 degrees with the only consolation being the GPU temp which is better than AIO. Actually if I could get both temps in this range I'd be quite happy.

Finally in terms of noise - It's not a happy story. Subjectively it's no worse than a loud laptop fan, but it's not what you want from a rather expensive build.
Click to expand...
My experience with the FW121 is how loud they are.
As for CPU, my first thoughts are same as yours (Redo TIM, or check for bubbles)
 
Clearance between rad/fans and the GPU is a factor too. I went with the much crappier Scythe slim fans at 12mm and that plus adding 5mm taller feet net me about 4-5 C cooler than using the FW121. The FW121 is a superior fan to the Scythe when it comes to throughput, but there's just not enough clearance. Three mm extra clearance doesn't sound like much, but it makes a difference with such tight tolerances. I also found putting the fans at the bottom and pushing up into the radiator gained me a bit more cooling as well, but YMMV. Keep in mind I'm running a 30mm thick radiator in the bottom, so I have less space to work with.

My 6600k spikes faster than my 5820k, so I'm thinking delidding will make a noticeable difference, just haven't had a chance to do so. Average temp is around 55C for CPU with spikes as high as mid 60s, and depending on game/benchmark, upwards of 54c on GPU, but I have two rads in my M1, and my slim fans never go above 1000 RPM. This is with +44mv and a healthy OC on the GPU, and running something like 1.25v on the CPU.

When I did run one rad, I was still hitting mid to upper 60s, and mid to upper 50s on GPU as well, but that was with radiator on the side, and 25mm thick fans. Looks like you're running an SE 240. According to xtreme rigs, an SE 360 using GTs at 750 RPM is good for about 156w of dissipation (10C delta). Overly simplifying here, but take away a third of that to get 240 numbers, and that's ~100w, assuming GTs at 750 RPM are close to what the FW121 does at 1000 RPM, and that's not a whole lot of dissipation. The 6600k is a 91w part, and the 1070 is another 150, assuming no OC, we're talking 240w. So those numbers aren't too surprising. I'd expect the CPU to be closer to 70C than 75C, so might have a bad seat on the waterblock, but I wouldn't expect anything below 65C with a radiator as thin as the SE.
 
uminded said:
For the extra $25 the K is an easy buy, sometimes they go on sale for the same price even. However I have been reading that the 91W K version is pushing the thermal envelope of the M1 case a bit so that will be my ultimate decider. I figured the NH-C14 blowing out would be able to handle the 91W load better.
Click to expand...

I think the power savings is a wash [1] unless you go down to the "T" series of processors, but at that point there is a hit in performance. This has been true for a couple generations [2]. I'd say go with the 6700k. For comparison, I'm cooling a 5960x @ 4.2 in an M1 with a NH-C14 without any issues, and that obviously has a higher power draw.

[1] Here's system power for the i7-6700 compared to the i7-6700k:

H.264 Playback:
i7-6700k: 39 W
i7-6700: 38 W

HandBrake:
i7-6700k: 94 W
i7-6700: 85 W

Prime95:
i7-6700k: 107 W
i7-6700: 102 W

Source:
Intel Core i7-6700: Skylake i7 at 65W | silentpcreview.com

[2] Here's a system power comparison for the Haswell generation of CPUs:

Idle:
i7-6700k: 41.8 W
i7-4790k: 45.4 W
i7-4790: 46.4 W
i7-4790s: 46.8 W

Heaven:
i7-6700k: 247 W
i7-4790k: 251.2 W
i7-4790: 250.7 W
i7-4790s: 249.3 W

Prime95:
i7-6700k: 137.6 W
i7-4790k: 135.3 W
i7-4790: 132.5 W
i7-4790s: 127.3 W

Source:
Haswell vs. Skylake-S: i7 4790K vs i7 6700K
Introduction to Intel S-series Processors
 
Ricky07 said:
Any plans for other case designs?
Click to expand...

There are two threads about other case designs from Ncase I think. One about a mATX case, and another even smaller one that was put on indefinate hold. Personally, I would like to see a design that focus more on silence and water cooling, while keeping the premium elegance and still rather small form factor. Achieving this with good case airflow is a challenge, but I think it can be done.

Before asking NCASE about Micro-ATX...

Chapeau said:
Okay so I thought I should post a PSA about noise and temperatures for the bottom rad only build. . .

In short: HORRIFIC

1) The slim Silverstone fans (FW 121) just don't have the grunt to drive air through the radiator. Even with the case on its side, very little air moves through the rad even at full fan speed.
2) The issue of lack of bottom vents + low clearance to the bottom of the case may also impact temperatures. However, the first issue really prevents any meaningful experimentation.
For example - I tried elevating the entire case on blocks to about 1 1/2 inches, but the lack of flow meant that temperatures didn't drop beyond a few degrees Celsius.

My actual temperatures:

Idle: CPU ~ 28 deg
GPU ~ 30 deg

Load: CPU ~ 75 deg
GPU ~ 56 deg

Strangely, there is quite a big difference between processor temperatures. This is something that I'll need to look into (Improperly bled waterblock? Poor TIM application?). I'm open to suggestions and help on this one! Please!! (y)

Compared to air cooling, CPU temp has jumped 15 degrees with the only consolation being the GPU temp which is better than AIO. Actually if I could get both temps in this range I'd be quite happy.

Finally in terms of noise - It's not a happy story. Subjectively it's no worse than a loud laptop fan, but it's not what you want from a rather expensive build.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the report. Not surprising to hear about the noise and temperatures. If the Ncase had been slightly taller, maybe a bottom radiator would be a more realistic option. But I think a bottom radiator still isn't ideal.
 
Mackan said:
Thanks for the report. Not surprising to hear about the noise and temperatures. If the Ncase had been slightly taller, maybe a bottom radiator would be a more realistic option. But I think a bottom radiator still isn't ideal.
Click to expand...

Way I see it, bottom radiator is good for dropping fan speed a few hundred RPM on the side radiator. So primarily good for noise requirements, not for cooling requirements. Probably a few things that can be done to offset this, but I'm not taking my system apart until next GPU upgrade, so will be a while before I try a few things.
 
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