Curiositie
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2014
- Messages
- 465
Just for the record, if you're using a 160mm long ATX PSU, the Asus 960 STRIX doesn't fit, the heatsink fins are just a hair too long.
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In my previous case, I had an H80i and I was pretty sure that the pump was able to be throttled down (I used a PWM fan header to do so, Corsair software should also do something) - 4700rpm as the "lowest" speed would definitely make it the loudest component for sure.
The Apogee Drive ii is basically the MCP35X upside down on top of a custom block; so it's really about as loud as the MCP35X is. However, and I might be weird, I found that I have enough turbulence at about 1700rpm (inaudible) and at full tilt I have it going at about 2500rpm (very slight audible whine). Nowhere near the max of 4500rpm.
You don't need watercooling to solve the noise problem, a good aftermarket cooler will do the same for a fraction of the cost. I started with an H220 for an Intel Core i5-4670K and an EK R9 290X fullcover block. I never got it to work silently in the end, especially when playing games for longer periods of time.
But it did cost $300, while I now only paid around $150 for proper air cooling that can't leak. It is completely silent idle and very quiet with moderate tasks (browsing, watching Netflix) and about as loud as my watercooling setup used to be. I never got my watercooling completely silent. It was somewhat quiet, but nowhere near silent thanks to the pump.
Also something many people "forget" is that limiting your game to your screen's refresh rate (FPS limiter or V-Sync) will also sometimes fix this. Some games just render at a much higher framerate than your screen can show, this is in the end wasted and produces unneeded heat. This is especially true in some games' menus. With Battlefield 4 and a reference R9 290X cooler, people outside of the room could hear when I was in the menu or at the loading screen because it was rendering at hundreds of fps and the GPU's load and power consumption would skyrocket.
In my previous case, I had an H80i and I was pretty sure that the pump was able to be throttled down (I used a PWM fan header to do so, Corsair software should also do something) - 4700rpm as the "lowest" speed would definitely make it the loudest component for sure.
The Apogee Drive ii is basically the MCP35X upside down on top of a custom block; so it's really about as loud as the MCP35X is. However, and I might be weird, I found that I have enough turbulence at about 1700rpm (inaudible) and at full tilt I have it going at about 2500rpm (very slight audible whine). Nowhere near the max of 4500rpm.
Hi ! I have used your example of Swiftech "Lack of Tech Support" as a prime example why we should look elsewhere for watercooling setup. I've seen too many stupid reasons they don't grant warranty, it's silly.Hey Phuncz, it's been a while. I think it was your build that encouraged me to put my 4770k/780 Ti under water with the H220. But Peter rejected my RMA because of the 450w PSU.
It's just a H100 rather than the i version. If try to use voltage control anything below full speed is even louder with a buzzing/screeching sound and if I use a low noise adapter from a NF-F12 the pump completely stops.
Hey ghostwich, did you find the 1700rpm inaudible for the Apogee Drive II or the H80i? I would imagine each is different noise level for the same pump rate.
You're just suppose to install the Apogee Drive II with the connector to the CPU Fanheader right? And the motherboard can control the speed from there? I was thinking of setting up slow quiet air pressure fans with the pump.
The low noise adapters from Noctua are inline resistors that will drop the voltage across the board - which is why it might be too low to even start the pump going. I truly thought that voltage control on the Corsair pumps would work but maybe the H100 is different than the H100i/H110/H80i? Maybe you should look into it (as any buzzing/screeching generally should invoke concern).
*snip*
Hai guys,
I am new here. NCASE M1 is my first pc build. Thanks to the Necere and Wahaha for their hard work. I wonder if Asus Matrix GTX 980 can fit in this case?
Hey all, I did a search through all the forums but couldn't find anything.
Has anyone else had a problem with optical drive in Windows?
I inherited a Mac slot drive DVDRW model: LG HT-DL-ST GS31N.
Fits fine in my M1 and it is RECOGNIZED in my bios but for some reason I can't see the drive in Windows 7 x64.
Anyone have the same issue or know how to solve it? Do I need a driver? Couldn't find it on the net.
I read somewhere that others are having issues not being detected under AHCI.
I have:
Mobo: ASUS z97i PLUS
CPU: 4770-k CPU
RAM: Patriot Viper 3 16GB
Can anyone provide any insight on my slimline optical drive issue?
Tinkering with it some more, I found out that
- the BIOS recognizes the optical
- Device Manager lists the optical
- I can send an eject command to it and the motor tries to eject anything in the drive
The problem seems to be that whatever sensor that triggers the drive to "pull" the disc in isn't triggered and so the drive doesn't ever load the disc.
Is there any spreadsheet or list for stuff that can fit into M1? Appreciate it if someone can share the link again. I am getting a EVGA GTX980 SC (blower type), , will that fit into M1? (My first PC build, not even sure if all reference card have the same size. )
So yesterday I did this exact thing, two Noctua NF-F12 fans as intake (one over the Kabuto II) and two Noctua NF-F12 fans below the Accelero IV as exhaust. I also added VRM heatsinks to my R9 290X but I can now play GTA V full-bore without the entire setup ever hitting 70°C. Fans on the bottom reach 1100rpm but I'm still very OK with the noise.I saw your setup in another post and it's almost exactly the same as mine: Accelero Xtreme IV and Kabuto II.
Just reverse the direction of the GPU fans such that it exhausts downwards and have two fan on the side that blow in. Even in-out air pressure is obtained and the top of the case where the motherboard is remains cool as the Arctic even at full load. This is the optimal full air-cooler set up imo. Of course you probably won't believe that bottom exhaust can cool the GPU and VRM sufficiently, but hypothesises can only be proved or disproved with experiments.
If possible, try changing to a different SATA power cable (or adapter) for the ODD. Necere and a few others had similar issues, where the ODD eject mechanism appeared to work, but it would never pull the disc into the drive..
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040135044&postcount=4787
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040676605&postcount=10892
Good luck!
So yesterday I did this exact thing, two Noctua NF-F12 fans as intake (one over the Kabuto II) and two Noctua NF-F12 fans below the Accelero IV as exhaust. I also added VRM heatsinks to my R9 290X but I can now play GTA V full-bore without the entire setup ever hitting 70°C. Fans on the bottom reach 1100rpm but I'm still very OK with the noise.
So yeah, WOW. I'm impressed with the performance I'm getting with this setup. Thanks for the advice, cowsgomoo !
The Sharkoon SFX Gold (SFX-L 500W) is also still cold after playing GTA V for an hour. Also impressive.
Air cooling FTW !
Pics of the VRM cooler in combination with an Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV:
When you had them as intakes, did you ever try elevating the case by just the feet, leaving more room for air to be brought into the system? I'm curious as to how this may affect temps.
Thanks AFD!
I'm using the Silverstone PP06B cable with a slimline plug. Just took a look on Newegg and 3 people confirm that this cable does not have enough power to power a slimline optical. Sucks, cause I bought this cable just for the optical.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162024
Hopefully that's what it is. I've been using the slimline SATA power connector from their PP05-E cable set, and haven't had any similar issues with the ODD.
I shouldn't need to, I'm using Noctua's NF-F12 fans which have a high static pressure and should be able to suck in enough air as-is. But I did have Demciflex filters on them, which I don't at the moment. 3 of the 4 120mm filters I have are warped badly so they touch the fans.
Hello,
wonder if anyone try watercooling with EK-SBAY DDC 3.2 PWM or EK-SBAY Dual DDC 3.2 PWM Serial? will it fit beneath the GPU with water block from EKWB as well? How much clearance is there between the case bottom and the GPU itself?
Yes it seems that installing the GPU's fans as exhaust is the biggest factor, since the warm air doesn't heat up everything on it's way to the top.The absence of the Demciflex filters is a huge variable, I'd think, but still, exhaust seems more logical overall.
can anyone if he is using XSPC Xtreme Radiator RX240? What is the thickness of this radiator and fan in this pic?
Hey, thanks, for the reply. Is the Inlet of the PSU facing the radiator? How is noise and temp level under load?
Edit: Is the heatsink necessary for DDC? they sell it without heat sink in Amazon. Where you get one?
Thanks in advance.
Yes, the inlet is facing the radiator. Since there is so little space between them, this essentially gives it a little bit extra room to breath. I am running a 3770K at 4.7GHz and a 980 at stock clocks, GPU maxes around 48-51C depending on ambient, and CPU maxes at 70C.
I honestly have no clue if the heatsink is necessary. Since the airflow is limited and its in a very confined space, I thought it wouldn't hurt. It is the EK DDC heatsink.
As far as noise goes, its dead silent except when gaming. The only thing that really makes noise is the PSU fan. I wish I could find a way to quite it down. I think i could spin it around so it pulls in fresh air, but I am not sure if that would impact the rad fan tho. However, coming from my previous rig with air cooled, reference 6970's in crossfire, I have a pretty high tolerance for noise.
thank you. how you loop your watercooled system? is it pump > cpu > gpu > rad > pump? i just realise they have a rad with duo pump too, how is the head pressure in the loop? Is duo pump necessary?
It goes pump > GPU > CPU > rad > pump.
I am a watercooling noob, this was my first custom loop, but I'd say that a duo pump is unnecessary. As far as head pressure goes, I have no clue. All I know is that it works well
Use the screws that came screwed into the rack to attach it to the fan, then use some M5 screws to attach the fan to the fan bracket.
Sorry to necro an old post but this has troubled me for a while.
Regarding using a fan between the fan bracket and the hdd rack, I found this post:
Could someone explain this more detailed to me please? I have been starring at the screws for like an hour and couldn't figure it out lol.
Thanks in advance!
You can see my picture a few pages back:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041570022&postcount=16122
I'm using my own screws but the screws that came with the bracket should work too.
Thanks! I wanted to try this but my screwdriver could not pass through the screw mount at the other side. Maybe I need a thinner screwdriver? Another problem is that I'm having a 15mm thick fan and it seems the screw is too long to get in the position. I guess I should get a thicker fan then.