NeoMatriX724
Limp Gawd
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Pfft, I just ripped the Cooler Off =P
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
Pfft, I just ripped the Cooler Off =P
d
Do you think a c14s in combination with a AOI liquid cooled GPU radiator besides it would fit? If I look at pictures it seems not to fit to my opinion... It looks like the C14 is a tight and occupies the neighbors slot.
shinjinian
Weaksauce
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- Apr 12, 2016
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Nope. There's not enough space for a 140mm fan and a half 120mm fan to coexist in the side of the Ncase, even though the 140mm isn't mounted on the side bracket.
Qrash
Gawd
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The NH-C14 overlaps the front half of the side bracket so it is not possible to mount the hard drive cage or a radiator and fan combination there. There is room for a 25 mm thick fan, but not a radiatior and fan together.
There are other smaller heatsinks that others have posted about that do not overlap the front half of the side bracket.
QuantumBraced
Gawd
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If I can choose I would always go for an air cooled option if it generates more or less the same results; less power, less mechanical parts to fail and water and electronics don't go so well together. If you want to check out my basket mikep_577 - Profiel - Wenslijst - Tweakers
I haven't ordered anything yet as i'm still waiting for my case, and who knows what new part might come out in the mean while
I agree, although if the difference starts to exceed 5 degrees at load, that's enough to sway me as I do want to OC my 6700K as far as it'll go under 1.4 volts, hoping for 4.6-4.8GHz. Though honestly, if I push the chip as far as it'll go and the temp is under 85 C with the fans spinning at under 1500 RPM, that is totally fine by me. I'm not sure if that's possible with the NH-U9S though. If anyone with more experience/knowledge than me has a view on this, please chime in!
So if the extra 5-6 degrees from the H75 at load get me to that point, then I'll go with it. There are pros and cons on both sides. With air you get marginally less noise, though I would run the H75 with a single NF-F12, so not sure if it'll be noisier; you get less moving parts/no risk of failure, no tubing = less clutter, and you get a badass look. You lose 5-6 degrees in performance, you lose the top-down intake, and you kind of block off access to the motherboard in the M1.
One thing I've learned from my research is that for a single 120mm cooler, a 25mm rad vs. 40mm rad and aluminum vs. copper essentially make no difference. Overall quality matters more. I've looked at a number of tests and they perform identically within the margin of error.
I know I'm overthinking this...
Quick phone pic, will take better pics later.
Would you mind posting your part list? Your build doesn't look as cramped as the others I have seen.
pendragon1
Extremely [H]
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69 dude!
QuantumBraced
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I found it. You shouldn't be selling it -- first edition and 69? That is a keeper!
Also, you'd really benefit from better pics. Give it a wash, it is so dusty in the pictures. And include more pictures.
Also, you'd really benefit from better pics. Give it a wash, it is so dusty in the pictures. And include more pictures.
I'm thinking of getting the GTX 1070/1080 but I'm having second thoughts.
I curiously opened the side of my current NCASE M1 v2 build to check out what space is available - It would be very difficult for me to install a longer GTX 1070/1080 graphics card next to the 3.5 inch HDD cage that currently holds 2 x Western Digital Red 6TB.
It is already tight inside and yet I have the tiny Asus GeForce GTX 970 DirectCU Mini graphics card.
Can any of you guys advise me on how I can get around this if I go ahead and buy a GTX 1070/1080?
My NCASE M1 v2 build is here...
phillai's Completed Build - Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 970 4GB - PCPartPicker United Kingdom
I curiously opened the side of my current NCASE M1 v2 build to check out what space is available - It would be very difficult for me to install a longer GTX 1070/1080 graphics card next to the 3.5 inch HDD cage that currently holds 2 x Western Digital Red 6TB.
It is already tight inside and yet I have the tiny Asus GeForce GTX 970 DirectCU Mini graphics card.
Can any of you guys advise me on how I can get around this if I go ahead and buy a GTX 1070/1080?
My NCASE M1 v2 build is here...
phillai's Completed Build - Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 970 4GB - PCPartPicker United Kingdom
Qrash
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I don't use the drive cage, but could you mount the cage or the drives in the cage so that the cables are at the top of the case?
shinjinian
Weaksauce
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And you've brought me to the earth shattering realization that my pair of 4tb hard drive won't fit. Looks like I'll be building a Linux server for my music and videos. Maybe I'll pirate the 750gb 2.5" drive out of my M11x for games. It'll save myself the money of buying more PC parts.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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I would wait and see if the do an itx 1070, they did several 970s so I would think there should be a good chance. Doubtful they will do a 1080.
Did you orient it upside down so the tubes come out from the LEFT of the cpu block (toward the i/o panel) to get more space?
Yeah i should take better pics lol
Qrash
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I just checked, there's not enough space if it really was available at the top.
I just did a search for "Ncase M1 drive cage" and this lead to a review in which the drive cage is mounted sideways. Scroll through about 3/4 of the article to see photos of the drive cage turned like I've never seen it before. Would this work for you?
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Sure...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $319.00)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $57.49)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $119.02)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For $72.00)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $114.99)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $288.99)
Storage: Seagate 4TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $104.99)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card (Purchased For $649.99)
Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (Purchased For $80.00)
Case: NCASE M1 v5 (Purchased For $220.00)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $17.10)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $17.10)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9x14 29.7 CFM 92mm Fan (Purchased For $15.30)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan (Purchased For $16.95)
Total: $2092.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
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M
mawakazi
Guest
phillai Yup, just like it has been said, You need angled sata cables with the cables at the top. I might be interested to buy your 970 if you're in EU and if you're selling.
QuantumBraced see my post page 490 + the pump as turned little to inaudible with time. The spining hard drives make more noise when in use.
Although if you use the 7v adaptor included in the noctua bundle, the pump will go slower with roughly the same performances, while making zero noise.
You just might need to start the computer twice or thrice because sometimes it just doesnt get enought juice to start if you use this method.
Now I've updated my build a bit and waiting for a ITX 1070 or cheap ITX 970. I need to do a bit of cable management but I'm waiting on the graphic card since ill be rerouting some cables differently. The fan on the left is their to exhaust the heat from the graphic card.
For the hard drives it is a very tight fit, but it works. The bottom hard drive touches the case but I haven't heard any vibrations (5400rpm) transmited to the case.
On the list of improvements, I would suggest to move the mounting points for the bottom HDD a bit higher on the HDD cage, so there is no contact between the HDD and the case.
As a final word, I would say, Air coolers vs AIO WC, Air cooler builds tend to look better/cleaner (imo).
QuantumBraced see my post page 490 + the pump as turned little to inaudible with time. The spining hard drives make more noise when in use.
Although if you use the 7v adaptor included in the noctua bundle, the pump will go slower with roughly the same performances, while making zero noise.
You just might need to start the computer twice or thrice because sometimes it just doesnt get enought juice to start if you use this method
.Now I've updated my build a bit and waiting for a ITX 1070 or cheap ITX 970. I need to do a bit of cable management but I'm waiting on the graphic card since ill be rerouting some cables differently. The fan on the left is their to exhaust the heat from the graphic card.
For the hard drives it is a very tight fit, but it works. The bottom hard drive touches the case but I haven't heard any vibrations (5400rpm) transmited to the case.
On the list of improvements, I would suggest to move the mounting points for the bottom HDD a bit higher on the HDD cage, so there is no contact between the HDD and the case.
As a final word, I would say, Air coolers vs AIO WC, Air cooler builds tend to look better/cleaner (imo).
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Curiositie
Limp Gawd
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I apologize if this is not a good way to go about posting this but-
But I figure you might like mine too, since it also doesn't feel very cramped, I think.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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When I saw that Seagate 2.5 4TB I thought that has to be a misprint, sure enough they have them. Nice to see that kind of capacity in 2.5 form factor.
wahaha360
Gawd
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I'm handling the emails, can you email support at ncases dot com, that's weird
aznfury684
Limp Gawd
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Hey guys, just got my hands on an Ncase M1 case v5 in black.
Love the case, but it seems like the interior matte black finish scratches/chips a bit easily. Seems like just resting something with weight on it wears on it and reveals the metal underneath. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has had luck finding some sort of touch up coloring/paint that matches the black finish. I've been using sharpie to color it in, but it's pretty off. Not a huge deal, but was just looking for some options.
(Apologies if this was covered earlier, I searched but perhaps my search skills aren't up to par)
Love the case, but it seems like the interior matte black finish scratches/chips a bit easily. Seems like just resting something with weight on it wears on it and reveals the metal underneath. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has had luck finding some sort of touch up coloring/paint that matches the black finish. I've been using sharpie to color it in, but it's pretty off. Not a huge deal, but was just looking for some options.
(Apologies if this was covered earlier, I searched but perhaps my search skills aren't up to par)
shinjinian
Weaksauce
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Boil
[H]ard|Gawd
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I dunno, but first thought might be checking a quality hobby shop for some of the various Testers model paint…? Like one of those paint touch-up pens…?
Thank you sir. I got your email confirmation.
pendragon1
Extremely [H]
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rip em out and clean more often. better air flow FTW!
Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport Black Carbon Radiator - 240mm by Hardware Labs (Black color)
Will this radiator work in the side panel of the M1? Ncase website says max height is 85mm from side bracket to the power supply and 60mm is the recommended total with fans and radiator (I assume this is less than the max due to clearance of radiator spigots/barbs/compression fittings).
Now here's my thoughts. The radiator is 60mm and I still want to use 25mm fans. The interesting thing is this radiator has multiple ports, allowing tubing to come out the sides, therefore making the inlet and outlet a non issue.
Am I correct in my thinking this will work? Or am I asking for trouble?
Will this radiator work in the side panel of the M1? Ncase website says max height is 85mm from side bracket to the power supply and 60mm is the recommended total with fans and radiator (I assume this is less than the max due to clearance of radiator spigots/barbs/compression fittings).
Now here's my thoughts. The radiator is 60mm and I still want to use 25mm fans. The interesting thing is this radiator has multiple ports, allowing tubing to come out the sides, therefore making the inlet and outlet a non issue.
Am I correct in my thinking this will work? Or am I asking for trouble?
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Boil
[H]ard|Gawd
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That 85mm also includes room for the rad/fans to actually breath…
You place a 60mm rad & 25mm fans in there, you are gonna have half the assembly pressed up against the PSU…
That would definitely be asking for trouble…
You place a 60mm rad & 25mm fans in there, you are gonna have half the assembly pressed up against the PSU…
That would definitely be asking for trouble…
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon by Hardware Labs (Black color) I'm using that one and I get excellent temps. i5 6600k OCed to 4.4 GHz and GTX 970 and 52C is my highest temp during stress testing. Plus it fits with no problem.
Yeah that was my original plan. However, I wanna get the biggest radiator I can that can fit in there in case I ever wanna switch to a bigger case and still have a good sized radiator and not have to buy another one.
QuantumBraced
Gawd
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The question as, at what point is breathing room worth more than milimeters of radiator? I'd actually love an answer to that, but Necere's recommendation of 25mm is very reasonable. Of course, it's not that simple as there are other variables, e.g. radiator fin density, fan RPM, fan static pressure, flow rate, and ambient temperature.
And also, any radiator thicker than 45mm you will need a push-pull configuration for, unless you want to run your fans at >2500 RPM which isn't really tolerable, and of course push-pull is not possible in the M1. Unless the rad is very low fin-density, but even then 45mm is too much in my opinion, and I think 30mm rad of high fin density + 25mm fan + 30mm breathing space will cool better than 45mm rad of any fin density + 25mm fan + 15mm breathing space. It's a hard optimization problem, but think the sweet spot is a 30-35mm rad of around 20 FPI with good static pressure 25mm fans.
Regardless of any of that, a 60mm rad is an awful idea. Will it fit and will it cool? Yes. Anything close to optimally? Not even close. Your fans will be sitting against a wall for half the length of the radiator, for the other half they'll be sitting right up against the CPU, RAM and motherboard.
Even if you switched to a bigger case, a 60mm radiator is overkill. I honestly think in any case (no pun intended), you shouldn't go thicker than 45, then you're just hitting serious diminishing returns. A 360mm 30mm thick 20 FPI quality rad can pretty much handle any OC on the CPU and single GPU of a modern system I think.
Nice. What is your parts list?I apologize if this is not a good way to go about posting this but-
But I figure you might like mine too, since it also doesn't feel very cramped, I think.
Boil
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For the mITX form factor, I believe it is…
But Bitspower makes a really nice water block setup of the ASRock…!
NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
