HP ZR24w

I bet you are looking at the white glow on a totally black screen. In everyday use, a completely black screen happens only 0.0001% of the time. Don't stress over it...

Actually i don't, i notice it in dark scenes in games.
When it's dark in the game it affects how good i see stuff.
 
Mine finally arrived last monday. One advice: don't order from xitra24.de. Had to send 2 e-mails and call 3 times just for them to correct a mistake they made in my order. Took more than a week after the monitor was in stock for them to start handling my pre-order plus they forgot to include the legally required invoice.

Anyway, I'm very pleased with the monitor. Haven't noticed anything of the bad black levels. I do see the IPS glow, but it's very acceptable for a monitor of this price IMO. I do have 3 dead sub-pixels but I can hardly see them in normal use.
 
Blackbird ... thanks for the update. OK, so in custom color mode you get 160 cd/m2 even with brightness turned down to 0. That's unfortunate.

It's normal to find that other presets give user controls like brightness a different effective range. You report that with the sRGB preset you get 120 cd/m2 with brightness at 5.

The RGB sliders are accessible only in custom color mode, right? Using the sRGB preset effectively adjusts those sliders for you, the firmware is doing it.

You say the color of white looks good to you prior to calibration. Are you talking about sRGB with a brightness of 5 looks good, or are you talking about custom color mode with a brightness of 0? Do whites with both these settings look good prior to calibration?

At 6500K white should look nice and creamy. The native white point of many inexpensive monitors is considerably higher, so lots of us are used to a very bluish white.

I'm not familiar with the Spyder3 Express software, but I'm confident that ColorEyes Pro or BasicColor will give you better results. You can download a free trial version of either one. I forget if you tried this already.

Have you tried calibrating in custom color mode with 0 brightness specifying a target luminance of 120 cd/m2 ... either with or without adjusting the RGB sliders? What kind of results did you get ... did the calibration bring the peak luminance down to 120?

The tftcentral review doesn't say what the color temperature is in custom color mode before adjusting the RGB sliders. Can you please report this? All that review tells us is that he got 6522K with RGB set to 142, 186, 144. What's the range and default values for those RGB sliders ... the manual doesn't tell me and I don't have a ZR24W to play with.

What gives you more satisfactory results ... calibrating in custom color mode or sRGB mode? Sorry for so many questions. It's not just curiosity, I would like to help if I can.

Calibration can't fix screen uniformity problems ... only ColorComp (NEC) for Digital Uniformity Equalizer (Eizo DUE) can effectively address that ... and you're talking really expensive monitors like the PA241W.
 
TFTCentrals review was dissapointing read. Otherwise the monitor would have been perfect, sRGB, relatively fast, low input lag, but contrast ratio and black depth are bad, REALLY bad especially in this day and age. So no, unfortunately I have to stick with my LP2475w for now.
 
Blackbird ... thanks for the update.

The RGB sliders are accessible only in custom color mode, right?

You say the color of white looks good to you prior to calibration. Are you talking about sRGB with a brightness of 5 looks good, or are you talking about custom color mode with a brightness of 0? Do whites with both these settings look good prior to calibration?

I'm not familiar with the Spyder3 Express software, but I'm confident that ColorEyes Pro or BasicColor will give you better results. You can download a free trial version of either one. I forget if you tried this already.

Have you tried calibrating in custom color mode with 0 brightness specifying a target luminance of 120 cd/m2 ... either with or without adjusting the RGB sliders? What kind of results did you get ... did the calibration bring the peak luminance down to 120?

The tftcentral review doesn't say what the color temperature is in custom color mode before adjusting the RGB sliders. Can you please report this? All that review tells us is that he got 6522K with RGB set to 142, 186, 144. What's the range and default values for those RGB sliders ... the manual doesn't tell me and I don't have a ZR24W to play with.

What gives you more satisfactory results ... calibrating in custom color mode or sRGB mode? Sorry for so many questions. It's not just curiosity, I would like to help if I can.
Thanks for the answer and all the information, i edited the quote so only your questions is left.

Yes the RGB sliders are only available in custom color mode.

The white before calibration in sRGB+brightness 5 looks good (except the red tint(?), i'm pretty sure (i never messed around with custom color mode that much) that the white with custom color mode+brightness 0 also looks good before calibration, probably even better than sRGB+brightness 5 because of the higher luminance: 160 cd/m2.
I have noticed that the higher the brightness is the better white looks, when i tested Dynamic contrast ratio (which boosts the brightness very much when looking at a bright/white picture) the red tinting(?) almost disappeared completely and white looked really bright white as white should be, and not gray/red/dim/weak like it looks like when it's calibrated in sRGB mode+brightness 5.

Can i use other calibration software than spyders with my Spyder 3 Elite? If yes i will try out those other software which you mentioned.

I have not tried to calibrate with custom color mode+brightness 0.

My monitor is now packed and is ready for transport so i can't check what the color temperature is in custom color mode before adjusting RGB sliders, but i can maybe check it later when i get my exchange monitor.

Like i wrote earlier in this post i have not tried to calibrate with custom color mode+brightness 0 because i can't get down to 120 cd/m2 luminance. But i can try calibrating with custom color mode when i get the new monitor.
 
I finally ordered the ZR24w. I had a $100 overstock.com gift card that I have been trying to use since Christmas but hadn't found anything till last night. Overstock just listed the monitor over the weekend. They are selling it at list price with $2.95 shipping but if you search fatwallet.com there is a 10% coupon code that still works and fatwallet is offering 4% cashback. Brings the total down to $370.15 shipped which is the cheapest price I have seen.
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/HP-Performance-ZR24W-24-LCD-Monitor/4818822/product.html

I'll report back in about my experience with overstock.
 
I have not tried to calibrate with custom color mode+brightness 0.

Like i wrote earlier in this post i have not tried to calibrate with custom color mode+brightness 0 because i can't get down to 120 cd/m2 luminance. But i can try calibrating with custom color mode when i get the new monitor.

I really hope your second display will meet your expectations but I can't deny that the above comment (& your previous edited post) makes me think there was nothing wrong with the first monitor to begin with...
Of course I havn't seen your display but your comments/complaints makes me think you just calibrated wrongly.
 
I've had mine for something like 10 days now. I wanted to allow some time to pass with significant use before I said anything further.

I'm damn happy with it. I was fortunate enough to get no visible defects on my unit. It's very responsive in games (both response time and input lag) and I simply find the picture to be quite pleasing. If you don't have hardware to calibrate a new monitor, this one seems to come with some fairly solid default settings that you can easily tweak with a little time in the menu.

The black levels are not good. I'll just say that. HOWEVER, it's not nearly as soul-crushing as I thought it would be. It simply doesn't come into play very often at all. I don't even care/notice it anymore. I'm not using this monitor to watch movies, which is where I would suspect this would be a much larger concern.

I think the promo price (if it's still active) makes this display a great buy.
 
I'm particular about my black levels. I personally think my NEC 20wmgx^2 doesn't render blacks too well... so the HP ZR24w has definitely been eliminated :(

Now it's back to the NEC ea23WMi... damnit... 23" and 1920x1080 isn't the huge upgrade I was looking for... oh well
 
I've been waiting for amazon.com to finally get this monitor in stock. Well they have but the price isn't what I expected it to be. Now the decision to bite the bullet or wait for a potential price drop.
 
Anyway, I just got it all set up and here are couple of pics I managed to take. I tried the black screen, though there is a little bit of backlight bleed in the top left corner, it is negligible.

4540089188_12d0b84983_b.jpg


*snip*

Sorry for an off topic post but I really like that background wallpaper of the bridge. Is this something that is available in the public domain? Thanks in advance.
 
TFTCentrals review was dissapointing read. Otherwise the monitor would have been perfect, sRGB, relatively fast, low input lag, but contrast ratio and black depth are bad, REALLY bad especially in this day and age. So no, unfortunately I have to stick with my LP2475w for now.

No one cares and there is no such thing as perfect. Keep looking for that unicorn though bro.
 
I really hope your second display will meet your expectations but I can't deny that the above comment (& your previous edited post) makes me think there was nothing wrong with the first monitor to begin with...
Of course I havn't seen your display but your comments/complaints makes me think you just calibrated wrongly.

Why do you think i calibrated it wrong..
I have done everything correct, and is it even possible to fail at calibrating?
The tinting issue exists before calibration. The first second i started up the monitor for the first time i noticed the red tint on down left corner and i immediately knew i would have to send it back.

About the white getting worse after calibration: i really can't see what i'm doing wrong?
Do you think i should try calibrating with Custom color mode and 0 in brightness? Why would i do that when it doesn't even reach down to 120 cd/m2 in luminance?
 
Why do you think i calibrated it wrong..
I have done everything correct, and is it even possible to fail at calibrating?
The tinting issue exists before calibration. The first second i started up the monitor for the first time i noticed the red tint on down left corner and i immediately knew i would have to send it back.

About the white getting worse after calibration: i really can't see what i'm doing wrong?
Do you think i should try calibrating with Custom color mode and 0 in brightness? Why would i do that when it doesn't even reach down to 120 cd/m2 in luminance?

If i remember correctly you mentionted white looking sort of grayish/dull & you didn't really explore custom color mode? To me that was an indication something possibly went wrong during the pre-calibration setup.

But if you're sure you did everything correctly then who am I to doubt you :)
Also if there's a constant tint (by constant i mean: with every possible setting) in the lower corner i would of course also send it back as RMA.
 
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I just finished a big work blitz in which I spent hundreds of hours in front of the ZR24w. I will say that even with brightness turned all the way down, it is a bit more harsh on the eyes than my Samsung 204B's (one on each side of the HP in Eyefinity) - after days of very long hours in front of mainly the ZR24w.

This harshness is nothing like a CRT, but still a slight bit more so than my Samsung's. (My eyes are very sensitive - I am only good for about a half an hour in front of a CRT to give you some idea.)

At one point I went to the "Cool" setting to tone things down even more. No problem with text legibility, etc., just a bit of eye irritation. Of course, endless hours in front of any screen can do that, but I did notice a slight bit of relief when looking at the Samsungs.

Has anyone else had this problem with it in terms of eye irritation/headaches? Maybe it is part of the "IPS glow" inherent in these type of monitors? This is my first IPS monitor, but I am now not likely to upgrade my two Samsungs for two more of these. But I will see how it goes further down the line and hope it is just due to overwork, and not the monitor itself.
 
Blackbird ... I've found an article that I think you will find very useful:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/spyder3elite.htm

The reviewer calibrates a monitor using the Spyder3Elite package with limited success ... particularly in getting to the desired target luminance. Then he uses the Spyder3 device with BasicColor and presto ... the target luminance of 120 cd/m2 is achieved, even though the OSD and RGB controls were left at their defaults!

Honestly, take the time and read this review in detail, you will find it well worth the time investment.
If you like, start by reading the conclusions.

The bottom line is that even the Spyder3Elite package ... which is the same basic calibration device as your Spyder3Express but with MORE sophisticated software ... does not do as good a job as BasicColor paired with the Spyder3 device. I suspect you would find the same true of Spyder3 paired with ColorEyes Display Pro. Both those software packages support the Spyder3 device, so try it!

After reading this review, I think you will understand why I'm asking you to try calibrating in custom color mode with 0 brightness even though that OSD setting doesn't get you close to your desired target luminance. Until I came across this review, I suspected that the problem was the DataColor calibration software (comes with the Spyder3) ... and now I have confirmation!

My personal experience has shown me that the software that comes with the Eye One Display LT package is similarly inferior to ColorEyes Display Pro and BasicColor ... but I do think the Eye One is a better device.

The reviewer also concludes that the Spyder3 reports considerably higher black level values than other calibration devices. He actually tests the same monitor with a Lacie Blue Eye Pro. So, your black level may actually be better than you think!

Now all of this is just a learning exercise if your replacement ZR24W has tint/uniformity problems like your first one.

Thanks for hanging in with me on this issue. We are getting somewhere.
 
Wow, some of you are incredibly picky. 2 weeks now, and still loving it.

Amazon is now shipping the ZR24W, but their own price is unattractive at present . I suspect this will change. It seems that HP or maybe Amazon itself is currently giving the advantage to other vendors. At least Amazon is tax free to most states (with the notable exception of New York) and free shipping.

I prefer Amazon due to my overwhelmingly positive customer service experience with them on my Samsung plasma TV. My initial set had some screen uniformity issues. Amazon promptly shipped a replacement and picked up the original one without giving me a hard time. I think I did have to open a case with Samsung support but it wasn't a big deal. Amazon picked up all the shipping costs. If an item is defective, Amazon absorbs the return shipping cost.

The tftcentral review pretty much confirms much of the feedback I've seen here to date ... good color accuracy post calibration, but a disappointing black depth and contrast ratio. Their report of 120 cd/m2 at OSD brightness level of 20 does not, however, match user experience. There's always a lot of variability among samples of the same brand/model, but this seems really different.

On some TV's you can go into the service menu and adjust the effective range of user controls. Unfortunately, I don't think you can do this on most monitors. I'd never go into the service menu of my TV myself ... you can really inadvertently mess up your set.

435 with free shipping if you're an amazon prime member is a great price. (honestly, if you're reading [H], i don't know why you're not an amazon prime member, I assume you're buying gadgets and electronics all the time just like me, free 2 day shipping is amazing. Plus, you can share your prime account benefits with your family members)

That's a great price. When i bought it from buy.com with the free shipping promo, after CA tax, it came out to the same price.
 
I just finished a big work blitz in which I spent hundreds of hours in front of the ZR24w. I will say that even with brightness turned all the way down, it is a bit more harsh on the eyes than my Samsung 204B's (one on each side of the HP in Eyefinity) - after days of very long hours in front of mainly the ZR24w.

This harshness is nothing like a CRT, but still a slight bit more so than my Samsung's. (My eyes are very sensitive - I am only good for about a half an hour in front of a CRT to give you some idea.)

At one point I went to the "Cool" setting to tone things down even more. No problem with text legibility, etc., just a bit of eye irritation. Of course, endless hours in front of any screen can do that, but I did notice a slight bit of relief when looking at the Samsungs.

Has anyone else had this problem with it in terms of eye irritation/headaches? Maybe it is part of the "IPS glow" inherent in these type of monitors? This is my first IPS monitor, but I am now not likely to upgrade my two Samsungs for two more of these. But I will see how it goes further down the line and hope it is just due to overwork, and not the monitor itself.


Wow bb23, I hope you are not having problems with the monitor. I apologize if this is not working out well due to the brightness. :(
 
Blackbird ... I've found an article that I think you will find very useful:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/spyder3elite.htm

The reviewer calibrates a monitor using the Spyder3Elite package with limited success ... particularly in getting to the desired target luminance. Then he uses the Spyder3 device with BasicColor and presto ... the target luminance of 120 cd/m2 is achieved, even though the OSD and RGB controls were left at their defaults!

Honestly, take the time and read this review in detail, you will find it well worth the time investment.
If you like, start by reading the conclusions.

Well there is something really wrong with the results. The result calibrating from Spyder software gave better results than calibrating it from the BasicColor.
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/images/spyder3elite/after_calibr_lacie.jpg
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/images/spyder3elite/calibrated_lacie_lacie2.jpg
The only thing that is better on the BasicColor is cd/m2. So they either f****d up the measurements and calibration (well they ran it on factory settings) or they try to cover the "truth" that Spyder3 is a good colorimeter.
 
Despite my limited knowledge, I thought I jump into the whole calibration discussion.

Calibration results can be greatly affected by the accurateness of the meter, the calibrator's skill, and the software used, among other things.

How long has the TFT reviewer had the Spyder 3? When was it last calibrated (if at all since he got it) How is it stored? A meter can become inaccurate pretty quickly.
 
So, what is the advantage of trying to achieve 120 cd/m2 luminance without lowering the RGB values in custom mode on the monitor? I lowered my RGB values and achieved 120.5 cd/m2 luminance. Anyone care to explain?

Thank you.
 
So, what is the advantage of trying to achieve 120 cd/m2 luminance without lowering the RGB values in custom mode on the monitor? I lowered my RGB values and achieved 120.5 cd/m2 luminance. Anyone care to explain?
Lower them.

You just shouldn't go too low, you will lose contrast and probably get some banding (look here to find out: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php).
Personally I think leaving brightness as low as possible (and adjusting R,G,B) will give you the best results on this monitor.
 
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I just finished a big work blitz in which I spent hundreds of hours in front of the ZR24w. I will say that even with brightness turned all the way down, it is a bit more harsh on the eyes than my Samsung 204B's (one on each side of the HP in Eyefinity) - after days of very long hours in front of mainly the ZR24w.

This harshness is nothing like a CRT, but still a slight bit more so than my Samsung's. (My eyes are very sensitive - I am only good for about a half an hour in front of a CRT to give you some idea.)

At one point I went to the "Cool" setting to tone things down even more. No problem with text legibility, etc., just a bit of eye irritation. Of course, endless hours in front of any screen can do that, but I did notice a slight bit of relief when looking at the Samsungs.

Have you tried to lower your constrast as well? Or dial down the sharpness (set it to 3 instead of 4?) I've only spent a few hours in front of my ZR24w and do find things a bit harsh for my eyes. I think the problem is that even at its lowest brightness setting, the monitor is still penty bright. Then again, I've been using CRTs all my life except for my laptop's TN and it's possible that my eyes are still adjusting to the monitor.
 
Lower it.

You just shouldn't go too low, you will lose contrast and probably get some banding (look here to find out: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php).
Personally I think leaving brightness as low as possible (and adjusting R,G,B) will give you the best results on this monitor.

Ah, I see, thank you. I do set my brightness to zero to achieve my calibration. Reading rberger's comments though has made me want to try another software calibration package, with the aim of raising my RGB values. However, these alternate software seem to come at a price, they are not free...
 
Blackbird ... I've found an article that I think you will find very useful:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/spyder3elite.htm

The reviewer calibrates a monitor using the Spyder3Elite package with limited success ... particularly in getting to the desired target luminance. Then he uses the Spyder3 device with BasicColor and presto ... the target luminance of 120 cd/m2 is achieved, even though the OSD and RGB controls were left at their defaults!

Honestly, take the time and read this review in detail, you will find it well worth the time investment.
If you like, start by reading the conclusions.

The bottom line is that even the Spyder3Elite package ... which is the same basic calibration device as your Spyder3Express but with MORE sophisticated software ... does not do as good a job as BasicColor paired with the Spyder3 device. I suspect you would find the same true of Spyder3 paired with ColorEyes Display Pro. Both those software packages support the Spyder3 device, so try it!

After reading this review, I think you will understand why I'm asking you to try calibrating in custom color mode with 0 brightness even though that OSD setting doesn't get you close to your desired target luminance. Until I came across this review, I suspected that the problem was the DataColor calibration software (comes with the Spyder3) ... and now I have confirmation!

My personal experience has shown me that the software that comes with the Eye One Display LT package is similarly inferior to ColorEyes Display Pro and BasicColor ... but I do think the Eye One is a better device.

The reviewer also concludes that the Spyder3 reports considerably higher black level values than other calibration devices. He actually tests the same monitor with a Lacie Blue Eye Pro. So, your black level may actually be better than you think!

Now all of this is just a learning exercise if your replacement ZR24W has tint/uniformity problems like your first one.

Thanks for hanging in with me on this issue. We are getting somewhere.

I have a Spyder3Elite.

That review actually made me a bit more confused.. what is the benefit of not adjusting the OSD brightness at all?
In the review he complained about that he got 180 cd/m2 when his OSD brightness were set at 30%, then why didn't he lower the OSD brightness more?? He had 30% of room to adjust it down.

And i don't know if i ever will understand the thing with the RGB controls.
Some people (in forums) say that you should not touch the RGB controls, some people say you should adjust them, and in reviews they always adjust the RGB controls.
And now i shouldn't even touch the OSD brightness... all this is so confusing.
Blackbird ... I would first measure the native white point of your ZR24W in custom color mode after you've set your OSD brightness level. The native white point is a physical backlight characteristic that cannot be changed. It's what you get when you leave the RGB controls at their defaults.

If the native white point is close to 6500K, it's best to leave the RGB controls alone. If you specify a target white point of 6500K in the calibration software, the graphics card lookup table (LUT) will do all the work. It's better not to have both the LUT and the monitor firmware working on the same thing.
It's a completely different story on high end monitors like the PA241W that have hardware calibration with a much more sophisticated implementation of monitor controls.

Have a look at the discussion of native white point here http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/Monitors_Part_Two

If you don't leave the RGB controls alone, you are reducing the dynamic range of the monitor.

If the native white point is way off 6500K, you may have no choice but to fiddle with the RGB controls a bit. In this case, making the graphics card LUT do all the work of targeting 6500K may result in unacceptable banding (aka posterization or false contouring).

It's confusing because many of the calibration software packages TELL you to adjust the RGB controls if your monitor has them.

Honestly, this whole color thing is a never-ending learning curve.
Then why do they always adjust the RGB sliders in reviews..?



Ok i think i will try out the BasicColor software.

Should i set the target black luminance to 0.00 cd/m2 like they did in the review? Before i have set the target to measured mode, i think it was 0.32 cd/m2.
So i guess i can get the black luminance down a bit more if i set so that the software tries to get the black luminance down as much as possible, since the spyder3 package seems to detect a too high black luminance this can be a good thing.
 
Not sure if this has been covered, does anyone know if the usb ports on the monitor will stay on if the monitor is switched off (but powered on?)
 
Hallo,

i knew that i have to expect white glow with this monitor, but i have the issue that on the left site it is much stronger.
I wonder if this is only with my example, or if this occurs with others.

I would be thankfull, if somebody could comment on this. Except this issue the monitor is great.

Here are some images:

SDC10739.JPG

taken with: iso400 1/10s shutter

this looks very extreme, subjectively it looks more like this:

SDC10741.JPG


iso400, 1/30s shutter

i think, i will send back the monitor, this effect is too disturbing. Can be seen even with daylight.

this is probably no backlight bleeding because greater distance (3 feet) this effect disappears:

SDC10740.JPG


Greetings tarjan
 
Wow bb23, I hope you are not having problems with the monitor. I apologize if this is not working out well due to the brightness. :(
No worries, Zenshi - I appreciate the heads-up a while back about this monitor. I did what Howie suggests and it definitely is better!

Have you tried to lower your constrast as well? Or dial down the sharpness (set it to 3 instead of 4?) I've only spent a few hours in front of my ZR24w and do find things a bit harsh for my eyes. I think the problem is that even at its lowest brightness setting, the monitor is still penty bright. Then again, I've been using CRTs all my life except for my laptop's TN and it's possible that my eyes are still adjusting to the monitor.
Thanks a lot for those recommendations! My eyes are already relaxing more and now I probably will get two more for better Eyefinity alignment - though I will first see how 50 more hours is for me before I decide for sure.

I only had brightness dialed down to zero and was using the "Cool" setting. With your suggestions I can go back to the Custom settings rberger posted, which I prefer.

Where's the beer around here? I owe you one. ;)


Is there anything inherent in the IPS technology that could be radiating anything beyond what TFT screens do? The difference between a TFT and a CRT is extreme for me - I have used laptops since the late 80s and avoided CRTs whenever possible because of the harshness on my eyes. I always figured that difference is due to the radiation from a CRT though. Again, the HP is no where near the effect a CRT has on me (which includes headache, bloodshot eyes, etc.) - and with Contrast and Sharpness dialed way down on my HP, it does seem at this early stage to be like my TFT panels now.
 
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If the native white point is close to 6500K, it's best to leave the RGB controls alone. If you specify a target white point of 6500K in the calibration software

D6500 mode on mine is actually 7100. I'd fiddle to avoid native white point (still have to recalibrate to do this)...
 
Just picked up a couple of these and set them next to my Doublesight 263N H-IPS (no A-TW, sadly). Pretty satisfied with them so far. The AG coating is definitely more aggressive on the HP models as compared to the DS.

Typical IPS glow, no major backlight bleed, no stuck/dead pixels on a quick inspection. Not too shabby for the price. I might pick up a third just because the standard gamut looks odd next to the Doublesight wide gamut. The Doublesight is the nicer monitor, but I can't find two more to go with it, unfortunately.
 
Does anyone have the speaker bar attached to this monitor?
How does it look? Sound? Does it integrate with the display port or is there a separate audio cable necessary? Pics if you have them please. Thanks.
 
D6500 mode on mine is actually 7100. I'd fiddle to avoid native white point (still have to recalibrate to do this)...



No, the preset modes are based on RGB slider adjustments and are more often than not are totally off from what they should represent, like in your case. Native whitepoint is where your monitors RGB sliders default in custom color mode, usually at max though sometimes they are in the middle.

If your native whitepoint is very close to what you want, leaving all adjustments to the GPU LUT might be best choice (experiment). It affects least to your monitors contrast and black depth. If its off from your target, you lose contrast quite a bit as the GPU darkens the screen a lot (you lose a lot of white/bright color strength) and also you get a lot of banding. In this case its best to adjust your GPUs RGB controls to your target. You might lose some contrast and black depth as your monitors backlight is being adjusted, but color quality doesnt suffer much.

This is how I understood it anyway.
 
DataColor announced on 4/21/2010 availability of Spyder3Elite 4.0 ... it's just $19 for existing Spyder3Elite customers.

One of the new features is Software Brightness Control. Perhaps this enhancement addresses the issue with achieving the desired target luminance noted in the tftcentral Spyder3Elite review from March 2008.

It sounds like a very worthwhile update package. Here's the DataColor announcement:
http://www.datacolor.com/news/news-...s]=146&tx_ttnews[backPid]=84&cHash=28b44b1a8d
 
Blackbird ... the reviewer isn't saying you shouldn't turn brightness down to get to your desired target luminance. He was just trying to make the point that the calibration software should get you there even if adjusting the brightness control can't get you as close as you would like.

The new Spyder3Elite software brightness control is designed to help precisely in situations where the display is still too bright even with the brightness control turned all the way down. As noted by MaZa, it's unfortunately true that the sRGB preset on many displays does not do a very good job of matching the specifications.

I'm just saying I would not use the RGB sliders to try to get down to 120 cd/m2. Just use the RGB sliders to target 6500K color temperature.
 
The best discussion I've seen about the relative merits of various calibration devices is this article from CurtPalme.com:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11436

The Spyder3 can be a great colorimeter when calibrated with a professional grade reference meter.
NEC SpectraView does something similar with the Eye One Display 2.

My earlier comments apply only to stock meters.
 
Ok rberger.

But should i use 0.00 cd/m2 as black luminance target when i calibrate my monitor?

And is there really no disadvantage of adjusting the brightness with software?

I can't find the new Spyder3Elite 4.0 sofware anywhere, the link in the announcement doesn't work..
 
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