Hose Clamps

go to the hardware store and get some real metal gear clamps.

there is the risk of shorting somthing, if you do not secure your hardware inside the case, however they will generate a real seal

your hardware should be secured to protect from physical damage if you ever move your case regardless.

you pressure should never get high enough to need the extra clamping force that gear clamps give you, but for myself, i find the knowedge that all of my barbs and valves are rated for almost 10x time pressure that i am using, to be a comfort blanket that nothing should leak while i am away from my machine.
 
Those plastic ones can't be too bad. They can be real tough to remove though if you ever need to. They are similar to the ones used in some of the proprietary inkjet-type printers at my work. The printers cost $50,000 each so I'm sure the plastic hose clamps were used without fear of leaking.

I personally use metal worm drive hose clamps from the hardware store in my watercooling gear, just a lot easier to work with.
 
Get the metal ones, the ones with tiny little screws, they are a pain in the ass, but removing is easier, and it's a much more secure fit.
 
DeeFrag said:
Those plastic ones can't be too bad. They can be real tough to remove though if you ever need to. They are similar to the ones used in some of the proprietary inkjet-type printers at my work. The printers cost $50,000 each so I'm sure the plastic hose clamps were used without fear of leaking.

I personally use metal worm drive hose clamps from the hardware store in my watercooling gear, just a lot easier to work with.
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not necessarily saying that the plastic ones are bad, just that at the diameters and pressures that you will see in somthing like a hydraulic or pnumatic application, gear clamps are usually good enough, so for something like watercooling, they are MORE than good enough.

i don't know the pressures that your ink-jet printers opperate at. i also do not know how much force was used to pinch those ink-jet hose clamps shut. what i DO know is that with the gear ratio that a typical gear clam gives you, you can hand-tighten the things enough to be compleately sure that they will be secure.

in the incident that killed my A7N8X deluxe board, i was using the plastic clamps, and they gave out. after that, i switched over to metal gear clamps. in the incident that killed my NF7-S rev 2.0, the clamps held.

however, i added some additional control logic, so that everything would shut down if the fans ever stopped again, thus reducing the chances of having another in-case fire....................

the moral is that the metal clamps held at higher pressure than the plastic ones gave out at. maybe the ones that you are looking at are better than the ones that i used, however i can wholeheartedly reccomend the metal gear clamps as opposed to the plastic units, in general.
 
I have the plastic clamps in my exos loop. I used it to splice a more powerful pump inline to give it greater flow and I honistly don't see how they could fail. I got mine from frozen cpu and they are tuff little buggers. Extremelyt strong and flexible. Although they are hard to get off I havn't had any prblems with them yet. I put them on with a pair of pliars and if that didn't break them I honistly don't see how having them just set there could. Were the ones you bought the ones with all the little teeth? Just curious; because now you've got me a little concerned.
 
wtiger said:
I have the plastic clamps in my exos loop. I used it to splice a more powerful pump inline to give it greater flow and I honistly don't see how they could fail. I got mine from frozen cpu and they are tuff little buggers. Extremelyt strong and flexible. Although they are hard to get off I havn't had any prblems with them yet. I put them on with a pair of pliars and if that didn't break them I honistly don't see how having them just set there could. Were the ones you bought the ones with all the little teeth? Just curious; because now you've got me a little concerned.
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no worries. my cooling solution uses thermoelectrics, and so when things went drastrically wrong, my coolant temps got quite ridiculous. the pressure from having coolant well over 100 C blew my plastic clamps.

when mine failed, there was really no excuse for it..................
 
DFI Daishi said:
go to the hardware store and get some real metal gear clamps.

there is the risk of shorting somthing, if you do not secure your hardware inside the case, however they will generate a real seal

your hardware should be secured to protect from physical damage if you ever move your case regardless.

you pressure should never get high enough to need the extra clamping force that gear clamps give you, but for myself, i find the knowedge that all of my barbs and valves are rated for almost 10x time pressure that i am using, to be a comfort blanket that nothing should leak while i am away from my machine.
Click to expand...
AMEN! and my resevoir and pump inlet leak unless i use metal clamps. Don't ask why, i don't know, but i will never use anything less.
 
That's pretty impressive. I'm surprised the high temp didn't soften your hoses to the point of rupturing under the slightest pressure.
 
I use the plastic clips. They work great... but aren't super reusable . After 2-3 installations they get fatigued and should be retired.
 
perhaps "blew" is giving you guys the wrong impression.

the clamps did not BREAK.

the pressure made the hose slip off of the barb in one area, inspite of the plastic clamp that was trying to hold it.

in the burning incident, the temps got even higher. the coolant was at supercritical temps and very high pressure. the clamps held, the temperature and pressure eventually ruptured the hose, and the coolant boiled off. then things got REALLY hot.

burned neoprene, PCB, thermal compuond, dielectric grease corroded terminals and melted solder.

thermoelectric cooling can be a real learning experience.

:)
 
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