Got my Zalman CNPS7000A-Cu installed...

W

wilson502

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 5, 2003
Messages
458
Ok i put it on last nite. It went ok, i managed to get the stock HSF off, with no issues. I took the rubbing alcohol, put it on a qtip and cleaned the cpu, then cleaned off all the black gunk, from the thermal pad with a qtip. Put the right amount of AS5 on it, then put the HSF secured it, then booted it up no issues :). My idle was about 30-31C before and bout 38-40C @ load playing RO for ut2k3. Now it is fluctating about 27-29C at idle and about 35-36 @ load. Im assumin i did this right, cause if i didnt wouldnt the temps be sky high?
 
Originally posted by wilson502
Now it is fluctating about 27-29C at idle and about 35-36 @ load
Click to expand...
whats to complain about those temps? :D
keep in mind that it takes time for ur AS5 to get "broken in" and your temps will continue to drop....unless you get massive amounts of dust in ur computer:eek:
 
i wasnt complainin about it...., my load temps have dropped for sure, idle hasnt changed much, keep in mind that was taken when it was 65F in the room. Also if i installed it wrong would the temps be higher than before? how long will it take the AS5 to "break" in
 
im startin to wonder if i put it on right or not, its 68F and its idlin at 30c, bout as much as before. Load temps r down only like 2-3C or so. I also noticed the zalman i got isnt the "A" model meanin its a cnps7000-cu not a cnps7000a-cu any differences between the two?
 
it takes about 200 hrs (AS website) for AS5 to break in

and the Zalman A is for Athlon while the Non-A is for P4 & A64
 
oh ok, welll anyway, is there something wrong here shouldnt my temps be lower, btw my case temp is at 21C or 71F. Should my temps be lower or should i wait a couple of weeks for the AS5 to break in
 
Don't worry about your idle temp, just keep at eye when it's at full load.
 
my load tmp is bout 35-37C, before it was bout 38-41C or so. My temps havent gone up, they have come down 1-3C or so.
 
What are the temps like in the room this is housed in? And what type of air flow from the case do you have. I have the 7000-cu and ive noticed that some hot air acumulates right between the fan and the cpu, i have fixed that with more fans, and that caused my temps to drop 2-3C
 
right now it is 67F in my room, i have 2 80mm antec exhaust fans that came with the case, the dual fan antec PSU, and a thermaltake smart fan II at the bottom of the case, and 2 hdds, and 2 5.25 drives. I have the smart fan @ 3800 rpm, which is pushin as much air as the 2 exhaust fans.
 
your temps should get lower by a C or two in the next 200 hours

btw, what speed do you have your Zalman running at?
 
Whoa whoa whoa? No intake? Although you may think that the blowers will pull in enought outside air, an intake fan would do you good, especially one in your side pannel over the cpu.
 
umm my thermaltake smart fan 2 is my intake. I have that runnin @ 3800 rpm which is pushin bout 65 cfm or so, bout as much air those 2 exhaust fans push, 32 cfm each
 
umm, guys now my computer wont turn on, the light for the ethernet card is gone, all i did was hook up my cpu to my fan controller instead of that rhebous floatin in my case. When i closed it back up it wont start, whats up with that. i tried hookin the fan up back to the mobo, nogo :(
 
so u took off that thing that Zalman gives and you hooked it up to a rheobus?

hmmm seems weird, try putting it back to the original state
 
it booted up fine the first time i tried it. When i shut it off and tried to restart it it was a nogo, i hooked it back up to the mobo directly it was a nogo. Can a powersupply just crap out without warning?
 
maybe, but try flipping the switch on and off to see if anything would happen
 
nope notihng happening, there r no motherboard lights in the case, usually there is a green led that stays on, it doesnt stay on anymore. My router doesnt see my comp anymore either.
 
anything happen when you push the on button?

if no then maybe u unplugged the button

or maybe you unplugged the mobo power (stupid mistake you prolly didnt do)
 
im pretty sure its all plugged in ill double check. Nothing was unplugged, everything is plugged in as it should be
 
Originally posted by wilson502
Ok i put it on last nite. It went ok, i managed to get the stock HSF off, with no issues. I took the rubbing alcohol, put it on a qtip and cleaned the cpu, then cleaned off all the black gunk, from the thermal pad with a qtip. Put the right amount of AS5 on it, then put the HSF secured it, then booted it up no issues :). My idle was about 30-31C before and bout 38-40C @ load playing RO for ut2k3. Now it is fluctating about 27-29C at idle and about 35-36 @ load. Im assumin i did this right, cause if i didnt wouldnt the temps be sky high?
Click to expand...

Dear bro,

I intend to buy this HSF, can you tell me what is your usual temp @ idle and @ full-load before and after installing this HSF? So that I can get some real exp with this one.

I'm running [email protected] with DF Vcore. Hope that I can increase the OC ability with this one.

Thanks in advance
 
what exactly happens when you push the on button?

try swapping out your power supply
most likely its ur power supply that got messed up and its not giving anything power
 
when i press the on button, literally, nothing happens, its like hte computer is dead.
 
im gona go to circuit city an buy an antec truepower 430 PSU if they have one. Im assumin my PSU is dead.
 
well great news, it was the PSU, i hooked it up, fires up, i got the SmartBlue SL350, this one had the LED Lights:) thx god it wanst my board.
 
awesome!! :) so now ur Zalman is running on ur fan controller? or still on the Zalman thing that comes with it?
 
Just like to share my temps:

2 C - Ambient
20 C - Idle
30 C - Full Load
14 C - Case
 
na, im just runnin the zalman fan straight to the fan header it spins at 2600 rpm. I cnt hear the thing over my smart fan 2, so there really is no point in using it :) Also, should i just take this smartblue thing back an get a truepower 430, bout 35 dollars more? Since i kno now the PSU was faulty.
 
Originally posted by wilson502
Also, should i just take this smartblue thing back an get a truepower 430, bout 35 dollars more? Since i kno now the PSU was faulty.
Click to expand...
yea, the tru series is much better than the lighted one
the lighted one is known to have issues
 
its the same PSu as my old one except has LED lights in it if im not mistaken, both r SL350 PSUs.
 
Go for the TruePower. If you must have little LEDs to play with, you can get the Antec TrueBlue 480W but it costs like $90.
 
grr... then i have to take thing out an disconnect everything and do it all over again, sigh. Should this PSU be good enough if i upgrade my video card to a R420 or NV40 card, ppl on this forum were sayin yes it would be.
 
this pSU i got was 65 dollars, makin it 40 with a 25 dollar gift card. The antec Truepower 430 watt is 100, makin it 75 dollars. If i took this back there is a 35 dollar difference i would pay to cover the cost.
 
ok guys ill take it back an get a truepower 430. this should last me for awihle.
 
i just swapped my PSU with the Truepower 430, my voltage rails havent changed much, but oh well, itll last me for a while :)
 
I have the same Cooler
my Barton 2600 is runnin at 3200+ @ 1.725v,

Case Temp - 18c
Idle Temp - 29c
Full load Temp 35c
I run it on full all the time its quiet enough

I have 2 120mm Intake fans runnin at about 20cfm each
and 1 exhaust fan running at 32cfm

I love this heatsink so quiet and preforms well.
 
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