EK waterblock very good with Rampage III

DaMaDo

Gawd
Joined
May 31, 2001
Messages
681
I got my EK waterblock today and installed it and my MB/ICH/IOH temps all went from mid 60s to mid 30s. HUGE difference...

I think the main problem is the horrible, rock-hard thermal crap they use to put the heatsink on. I suggest at least removing the factory heatsink to put some MX-2 or whatever else on there instead...well that and I didn't have the active cooler on.

I had a R3E that I RMA'd which had high 50s without the active cooler and low 50s with it on. I assume the difference between the two boards without the active cooler is just how well the thermal stuff was put on.

The block isn't too hard to put on, except you need to cut up some included thermal pads. They even cover parts that weren't cooled before. I don't like putting on those little black plastic spacers either, but ah well. Either way, I'm very happy with it.

Here are the before/after pics I took with a P&S:
IMG_0585.jpg

IMG_0589.jpg

IMG_0605.jpg
 
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Leaving this here (instead of Watercooling) for a bit because its pretty and ....

I think the main problem is the horrible, rock-hard thermal crap they use to put the heatsink on. I suggest at least removing the factory heatsink to put some MX-2 or whatever else on there instead...well that and I didn't have the active cooler on
.

As DaMaDo mentioned I think it is always a good idea if you intend to OC, and even if you dont, and regardless of if you are going to replace it or not, to rework the heatsinks and heatpipes on a high performance board by inspecting and reapplying thermal compound and replacing push pins with "real" hardware.

Nice job. The weatherstrip to ensure the fans seal well against the rad is a nice touch. (keep your eye out for some black neoprene in case you ever rework, its very hard to find unless you special order it but it would blend in better as far as color goes)

Here is some adhesive backed black 3/8 wide x 3/16 thick closed cell stuff that would work fine I think (other sizes available). LOL 50' well maybe some windows and doors around the place could use some too. Maybe in a year when you pull the fans to clean them. In the mean time you could "paint" it with a Shapie Black permanent marker and make it "disappear".

McMaster-Carr

Part Number: 8694K125 $6.68 Each
Material Type
Weather-Resistant Neoprene/EPDM/SBR Foam Rubber

Shape
Sheets, Bars, and Strips

Backing
Adhesive

Adhesive Material
Rubber Based

Thickness
3/16"

Thickness Tolerance
±0.031"

Length
50'

Length Tolerance
±3"

Width
3/8"

Width Tolerance
±0.031"

Temperature Range
-40° to +158° F

Adhesive Temperature Range
-10° to +150° F

Density
5-7 lbs./cu. ft.

Foam Structure
Closed Cell

Texture Type
Fine Cell

Foam Firmness
Soft

Firmness, psi
5-9 (25% Deflection)

Compression Recovery
Fair

Color
Black

Finish
Textured

Properties
Weather Resistant, Flame Resistant


Do not mean to nitpick, but I guess I am :p -- its a very nice job and a good looking install, just tossing out ideas.
 
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Thanks Bill,

That weather stripping is on my list to change. I was actually considering using either this or this. The main reason I got the weather stripping was for the radiator-to-case seal which I'll keep. You can't see it on top because I have a filter over it so I'll keep that one there (altho the filter is white also).

I might add another 140mm fan on top of the bottom radiator to pull also.

I'm also planning on doing something about the gray BD-RW drive showing through...I already coated the top and back with a synthetic carbon fiber sheet, but it's a tight fit so I couldn't put it on the side.
The same carbon fiber vinyl thing will probably go on the bottom of the top fans..circular cutouts....maybe.

One more note...I ordered the waterblock direct from EK and it came out to $147 with shipping included after the exchange rate (rate done through CC not paypal) which is cheaper than the $149-$151 without shipping that US places sell for.
 
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