Cloud15x DD vs Dtek testing plus worklog

Hades16x

2[H]4U
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Sep 24, 2003
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So as you guys know, I started My Dangerden experience thread. To Dennis' wishes, I'm going to test the MC-TDX vs Dtek Fuzion.

I wont do any special 1v1 testing for you for theoretically values. I wont test flow rate.

I am purely going to test a real life loop consisting of CPU>>Chipset>>GPU>>Rad>>Res>>Pump.

The CPU WB comparison and results will be given as a set of temperatures and ease of installation. I will edit this first post and my subsequent posts will have my worklog and final project.

Here is what I'm testing: Which CPU WB is better is my 3+ block loop? Obviously we know the MC-TDX is freer flowing than a Dtek Fuzion, so will this effect Chipset and GPU temperatures?

Under full load, I will report temps with each of a e3110(e8400 alternative) x38 chipset and an 8800gtx. May include overclocked temps too.

Here is the comparison:
First things first between the DTek and the MC-TDX. Their stock mounting systems are almost the same. To tell you the truth, I hate the stock mounting systems for both. I give a thumbs up to Dtek because the mounts come pre-built so you know how it looks together. Another plus to the Dtek is that the bottom of the column is a screw head, which is fixed to the screw. I like this vs the DD system of using a nut that can theoretically come undone while moving and assembling the block. Needless to say when I installed the x38 block, I used red loctite to the backside nut as it will no longer come off.

MC-TDX Top, DTek Fuzion bottom
DSC00015.jpg


The plus to the MC-TDX is the Aluminum plate has all the Intel/AMD mounting holes on one piece, which is screwed into the MC-TDX which makes things a whole lot easier. The DTek is a little bit more fussy to install since you have to balance the pressure on the WB until you get it snug.

MC-TDX left, DTek plates right

DSC00013.jpg


Lastly, and the main difference why Im liking the Dtek better so far is that since I knew I was only going to be using it for Intel platforms, I bought the pro-mount LGA775 kit. This kit makes the mounting much easier, as it uses a backplate. The mounting is exactly like a TRUE 120, minus the wiggle! Also I feel that with most water cooling pieces, a back plate should be used. As with high end, large air coolers, there is tremendous lateral force with the weight of the block, water, and tubing. I dont think 4x 1/8th inch wide screw heads is enough to hold it tight.

Pic of both the Dtek and the MPC-x38 custom:
DSC00017.jpg


-1 Dtek

DSC00029.jpg






OKAY HERE IS WHAT YOU'VE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR:


DTek fuzion:

After 8 hours or orthos and rthdribl to stress both CPU and GPU this is the temps. Now since my ram wont let the CPU past 3648, I bumped the voltages up to 1.325v to increase heat production in hopes to produce a larger detla between the two blocks.

~19C ambient temp(65-67F)
core0 44C ave 46C max
core1 35C ave 39C max

chipset 34C

GPU 612/135-/939 38C ave 50C max

Danger Den MC TDX:

~8 hours orthos and rthdribl at same settings
DDWC.jpg


~19C ambient temp
Core0 47C ave 48C max
core1 38C ave 39C max

Chipset 35C

chipset 34C

GPU 612/135-/939 50C ave/max


Conclusion:

So we see here that the Dtek Did cool the CPU block better, and allowed the chipset and GPU to run cooler. We saw a 3C higher average temperature out of the cores when using the MC-TDX over the Dtek. Also, the chipset did run 1C cooler with the Dtek, at 2C cooler on GPU with Dtek.

Halfway through this test, I realized I was being unfair to the Dangerden block. First of all I'm using the pro-mount kit with the Dtek, and I'm also using a 5.5mm nozzle on it. We can note that the nozzle kit aids in accelerating the water over the cores, thus lowering the temperature. It has been show it's effictiveness by others. Also we note that people have seen a decrease in temps by just adding the Pro-mount kit. If these two additions lower the Temps of the Dtek block by 1-3C, I say we have a pretty dead match between the two, stock.

Also to be noted, I would seriously doubt that one block is going to reduce performance of the system. I dont see these intel chips on water hitting their limit because of temps.

More pics to be added
 
Worklog: Just incase any of you didn't know, this is my first time into watercooling.

Sorry I suck today cameraing... doing a bit of leak testing.

First picture is just a shot of the entire setup

DSC00019.jpg


Next we have a close up on the Dtek and custom x38

DSC00020.jpg


Then we have Pump and thermalchill PA120.3

DSC00021.jpg


DD 8800gtx, MC-TDX, other x38

DSC00022.jpg


Really blurry res shot

DSC00023.jpg


4/14/08 update:

Here we have a picture of my new rocketfish case with the res mounted:

DSC00024.jpg


Next is the pump:

DSC00025.jpg


Here is the big hole in the top, wiretap has more pictures of us actually cutting it:

DSC00027.jpg


This last one is hard to see. This was a $130 screw up wiretap and I did to my thermochill 120.3. We drilled straight into it...OUCH. A little bit of JB weld later, and going to leak test for 48 house before I install components.

DSC00028.jpg


After my oops and fix I decided to mount the Rad in the case, then leak test again because I'm paranoid about it. As of now, the barbs leak more than the hole! So no leaks :-D.

Drilling:

DSC00030.jpg


Little bit of mounting!

DSC00031.jpg


Cut away the foam:

DSC00032.jpg


Update Wednesday 4/16/08

GRILL SHOT:

DSC00037.jpg


Up close and personal on a single fan, plus on fan controller. Fans are set at high:

DSC00038.jpg


Front of the case, Top is a Zalman 6 fan controller, will primarily use settings High(fan)/low (controller) for noise. Notice optical drive had to go in the bottom so I didn't restrict hose movement.

DSC00039.jpg


Should start Vista format tomorrow night! Hurry up and give me temp readings!

As always, truly [H]ard's
Michael

BTW, does anybody else want me to test something for them?
 
come on wheres the temps for each block :D

also yeah that nut on the underside of the board always coming undone always pissed me off, they need to sort something out for that lol
 
Yes, please, please, please give us some temperature figures. :D

I couldn't make out your water pump, but I assume it's a high head pressure pump. (ie MCP355, MCP655, etc :p)

I don't use anything ATM but cpu loops and I've read where the Dtech Fuzion was best.

I gave up a MCP655, which I liked the industrial looks of, for a MCP355 which I liked the small foot print of. (limited space, trying to keep the loop 100% internal :) )

Edit: Please disregard the "I couldn't make out your water pump" statement. D'oh :(


 
More worklog pics. Should have Vista installed Thursday night. Need to write a 10 page comp paper for Thursday.
 
Yes, please, please, please give us some temperature figures. :D

I couldn't make out your water pump, but I assume it's a high head pressure pump. (ie MCP355, MCP655, etc :p)

I don't use anything ATM but cpu loops and I've read where the Dtech Fuzion was best.

I gave up a MCP655, which I liked the industrial looks of, for a MCP355 which I liked the small foot print of. (limited space, trying to keep the loop 100% internal :) )

Edit: Please disregard the "I couldn't make out your water pump" statement. D'oh :(



I know you said disregard, but incase others are wondering, Its a Swiftech MCP655-B. It's a fixed speed because after long contemplation going between the variable and fixed, I realized t he fixed is ~20 cheaper and most people run their variable at 4-5 anyways. This pump is fixed at 5. In an open case like I have shown, you can hear an audible whine, but it is very faint. Im expecting inside my case, it will be inaudible.
 
Edit: working as hard as I can. Asked teacher for extension. Said I was working on an extreme resource topic. BTW my paper is on computer building.

Edit 2( I don't want to keep posting) Any responses would be really nice, Id like to know what you guys think!

I didn't know what to do with the hole in the top, I though about a rad grill, I actually have one that will be sold here in the FS/T subforum. I just sent K&N an email.. I'm going to see if I can get a custom air filter made for the top. It would be a sweet theme.

Not quite worklog pictures. Here is how my rad is mounted and how the hoses go. Better shot of the screw up also.

DSC00033.jpg

DSC00034.jpg
 
Cloud15x: :)

Thank you for the effort, it is very much appreciated. (not only by me, but by many people) ;)

Talk about D'oh :rolleyes: I appologize for not seeing your MCP655-B WP (if it had been a snake it would have bit me :eek:)

Thanks for the info on the MCP655-B model pump being factory set on 5. I don't imagine many people would run their WC'ing pumps less than 4 or 5 anyhoo' .

ATM I have 2x MCP350's (I like the small feet print :D) I do like the industrial look of the MCP655 though (either variable or non variable). I just don't have the room and I already had 2x boxen with 3/8" loops.

Besides I think you were smart savin' the $20 bucks, there's always a way to spend any saved $ on some other WC'ing parts.

Good Luck on your paper, so far I think your doin' a hell of a job. :D


 
Thanks for the support jws2346. This whole watercooling stuff isn't for the faint of heart, you have to be ready to make some pretty drastic choices. I personally think its the most difficult project I've worked on.

I dont see how you noticed it was an MCP655-B and DangerDen's spec sheet on the laing version states its fixed at 5.

Also this isn't a cheap alternative to air cooling. Not only is it the cost of the parts, but to do it right, it's taken countless hours of cutting and planning and drilling and testing.

If anyone wants to help me, I'm looking for a custom sized air filter that is no deeper than 1/2inch thick. It must look cool also!

Next is there anyone in the Ann Arbor, MI area that can point me to a damn good air brush tech or maybe even powder coater? I'm thinking the best bet is to get in contact with some custom car painter and have them do something with it.
 
Going to give a quick product overview of everything I own so far, as it seems many people are looking at this thread for advice on what to buy.. Here is my $.02 on everything.

I bought the swiftect MCP655-B from Microcenter, it was a steal. The pump is the same as the vario, but locked at setting 5. This is fine for use as most people set the pump 4-5. It is very strong and capable of drenching you with water(yeah it sucked) and it is also capable of force feeding beer down your throat(rather fun too). The only advantage to using the vario to me would be purging your system of bubbles. >>

The swiftech microres does a good job of getting air bubbles out of your system, while holding a decent amount of water for extra bubbles in system and evaporation. What I've noticed is that it's very difficult to purge the system with the pump set at 5 and no restrictive block in the system. I watch as the bubbles carried by water go into the res, and get forcefully sucked back through the loop. I feel if I could turn the pump down to 1, the bubbles would get tossed into the res, allowed to float to the top, and the water being sucked in would be rather clean.

The x38 chipset block is pretty much your run of the mill chipset waterblock. I feel it is esthetically pleasing, and I'm very happy with the fat boy hose barbs found on the danger den blocks. To me, the hoses slide on just as easy, and are much harder to take off. The benefit is better leak protection, especially with the large metal hose clamps I'm using, which provides pressure at every hump.

8800gtx Danger den block. I feel that the acrylic top is cooler, but since I don't have a window on my case, I honestly don't care. As long as the temps are good, I'll be happy. I personally think the 8800gtx block without water in it, is heavier than the whole 8800gtx with stock HSF on it. Any problems here?

TYGON TUBING!!!!!! I was told by many people that I should just skip Tygon, and go to Home Depot, as they have the "same thing." I don't quite know if any tubing is the same as Tygon. Besides being an AMAZING chew toy, I feel that because of it's soft nature, it can make turns much easier.

I know it can be construed as a candid picture since it doesn't show me holding both tubes to grant equal bends, but I promise I held each loop to the best of my ability to be the same.
Notice the kink in the top home depot tube and the flattened, but smooth tygon turn:
DSC00035.jpg

Edit: notice how my camera focused really well on the carpet, but not on the tubing. Sometimes I wish I had my dads Nikon F5 so I could manual focus it, but then you wouldn't get pictures real time!


Lastly the Thermochill 120.3. This freaking thing is huge. I'm under the assumption it's quite a bit larger than the BIP3, not only in length, but height too. Only time will tell if it truly is the best rad out there.

I know know why most people mount their rads in the bottom of the case. Air rises, and it becomes really easy to seal the system mounted in the bottom as the air just kind of naturally comes out. Mounted in the top, it's proven to be a pain in the ass to fill up what I would like to call the Thermochill ballast tanks on both sides.

Is it a bad idea to run the pump upside down for a while so I can prime the res?

Thanks for looking and any input,
Michael

If anyone would like to contact me personally and ask me questions, just PM me either your phone number and name, or just PM me. Over the phone I can better answer questions.
 
Who suggested Home Depot vinyl tubing :D.

That stuff is crap, through and through.

As for your pump question, so long as the INTAKE of the pump isn't facing towards the ground, it's fine.
 
So my next question since I'm getting close to start testing I need to come to a conclusion how I'm going to test the blocks.

Im assuming idle on a WC system takes longer to get to. My idea is to check temperature after 2 hours of sitting at desktop, and only program open is a temp monitoring program for the idle temperature.

next I think I'm going to do a 12 hour 3dmark06 loop then a 12 hour orthos loop. Report the load temperatures for each since we're trying to find out what effects the WB has on the entire system, not just CPU.

Sound good?

What program can I use that can measure GPU CPU and Northbridge/chipset temperatures all in one? I know Rivatuner will do GPU and CPU, but I need a way to measure chipset temperature? Everest?

Edit: will be used on Vista x64

Thanks,
Michael
 
You'd do well to get a problem that'll log the temperature readings for you as well. Then you can give us pretty graphs, hehe. Check the reviews for water cooling stuffs, most mention the program that they used to monitor and record the temps. I've seen a few that monitor under load for around 20 hours, then show how long it takes temps to reach equilibrium again.

Jeremy
 
/subscribed

I picked up one of the TDXs a while back with the intent to WC my rig... and now that I've picked up a rocketfish too, ITS ON LIKE DONKEY KONG!

Curious to know performance of the two waterblocks. I'll be checking back!
 
JeremyCT, can you help me out by linking or naming a program? I'm already extremely busy with this project and my school work, and Raiding(hyjal Tues night, BT Wed nights). Any help would be appreciated.

I'd prefer to paste(yes you heard me) my debit card into the line for a program and download it :-D.

Thanks guys for the support.

Worklog updated.

Edit: nice they updated photobucket's uploading system!!! werd
 
Hey Cloud15x, thanks for your hard work :D

This is only an idea, maybe you should contact some of the people on XtremeSystemsForums ? (nikhsub1, martinm210, Cathar or MaxxxRacer to name a few) Between them and some of the WC'ers on the [H]ard forum. I don't think there's anything that can't be answered about WC'ing a computer betwixt them and I think they'd be happy to answer any questions you have. (the people on XSF are almost as friendly and helpful as the members of [H]ard folding, only kiddin' ;))

 
Thanks for the info JWS. I personally think though, I'm going to leave ever other forum out of this one. This is a thread created by me, to be viewed by all, but strictly made for the users at [H]. The more people you branch out to will give you so many opposing view points.

Dennis @ DD even mentioned martinm210 a few times with the work he has done. I know what would happen if I asked him for help:

"I already did the tests, block XXX is better than block YYY. Here take a look at my sechi flow graphs and epic test equipment, I'm right1!!11!!"

Like I said this test isn't based on flow rate. The conclusion I come to might result in technology differences and flow rate problems, but nothing is theoretical. Everything I have ever see from martin, although great work, has been product reviews based on testing machines. My goal is actual purpose. The MC-TDX might be a more freely flowing block, which we could assume higher CPU temps, but could it be possible that the column placement inside the block, and the quality of heat transfer of the block is superior to the DTek? This could result into equivalent CPU temps, but better NB and GPU temps.

If I have enough time and people stay subscribed long enough. I'm going to try to act like [H]ardocp here and see if any gameplay advantages are found by using block x vs y.

I'm going to give 3dmark vantage a try. Although 3dmark isn't a good representation of actual computer performance, it is a good representation of increased performance on the same system.

Take for example I get 10000 with the DTek.. This is max overclock on CPU and graphic card. Now I switch to the MC-TDX and it's worse performing and I have to lower my C/GPU overclock. Now my 3dmark is 9800. Relatively speaking, we could see a gameplay advantage a few higher FPS with the DTek over the MC-TDX or vice versa.

Paper is done, hoping to get out of class extremely early tonight. If this is the case, I'm reformatting tonight. That means first round of benchies starts tomorrow! Payday w00t.

By the way. I need some insight on how to control ambient temperatures for comparative testing. Might need to get a digital temp gauge. I'll try to get one from my dad at work today.
 
Cloud15x I understand your opinions 100% and I can honestly say the users at [H] forum appreciate your efforts. :D

I just mentioned some people that had authored some pretty respected information about WC'ing on the Web and I just thought you might want to get in touch with them with any questions you may have about testing. :confused:

As far as the ambient temp thing goes. I just know the ambient temp has to be the same with each test (even the mounts are important), but how to control it accurately is beyond me :(

 
Oh no, I wasnt trying to be mean and declining your advice, but I just feel I want to do this expierement by myself.

And I found the best freaking Temp monitor ever. I called my dad(works a a hospital) and asked him what the thought. He told me to drop by to pick up this "HOBOware"

The sensor is badass! It has an onboard Temp, humidity, and light sensor. It also has a plug in(like a headphone jack) to allow it to sensor everything over again.

The only problem is the remote sensor ranges from -40C to 50C.
My Loop goes like this Res>>pump>Rad>>CPU>>Chipset>>GPU>>back to res.

I am going to use the temp logger above my radiator( to measure ambient temps) and then I'm going to run the remote into the res to measure output water Temps.

The logger has a 19 hour max single log with at most 31 days of logging storage.

What I plan to do with this this system is to monitor average temp idle/load and show max temp full load also.

This dual temp sensing allows me to negate current ambient temperature since we can use the delta temp. This will be a more accurate show of which loop is more effective.

Another way of showing effectiveness is which loop has the highest Resevior temperature. This allows me to show which loop is extracting the most heat out of the hardware.

Thoughs JWS?

Would anyone else like to jump in? For the amount of people that have looked at this thread, there should be more posts :-D
 
That really sounds super accurate and super complicated IMO Cloud15x. I'm one of those lazy people that just read the conclusions, not how complicated and expensive they were to get or how hard the author had to work to get them.

I don't know about anyone else, but I feel more comfortable keeping my 24/7 folders at or maybe a little hotter than +50c. (my place is usually 20c to 21c ambient and I only OC' my E6600's 2.8 GHz or 3.0 GHz., plus I'm only WC'ing the cpu ATM) I've read on the Web where anything lower than +60c was copacetic for an Intel C2D, so +50 would have some cushion. I've read where some people say anything below 71c on a G0 stepping Q6600 is OK, that's just a little hot for my comfort zone :eek:

I don't think there is a software temp program in the world that gives 100% accurate temp readings, some are probably very close. RealTemp and Coretemp come to mind for the Intel C2D's (dual or quad), but without Intel stating the TJMax any and all programs are merely quess work on the authors part. (look at all the problems of not knowing if your chip has a 85c or 100c TJMax, adding 15c, subtracting 15c ahhh...) To get an almost perfect accurate temp reading, IMO, you'd need to use physical calibrated sensors and then you still don't know what the chip was designed to withstand :confused:

Because a software program generally has a fixed formula the cpu temperature would have to scale 100% and I've read on the Web where the Intel dual and quad core C2D's are less sensitive at the lower temperatures and more sensitive at higher temps.
In other words the cpu temperatures are more accurate the hotter the chip gets, which would explain the usage of the TJMax temperature (internal chip sensor) to know when to throttle or when to shut down. (that is if your sensors are not stuck like I've read a lot of the first penryn dual core Exxxx chips were)

Please don't any expert come unglued. The above post is strictly my opinion. :)

 
Up and running on my new rig, with the Dtek block. I wont post temps yet because the CPU temps have to be way off. Its not THAT cold in my room.

I will update this to my DDvs Dtek 1st post, but Im pretty annoyed with how close the barbs are on the Dtek.. Its a REAL pain in the ass to put hose clamps on with tygon tubing.
 
So I'm starting my testing. I really like watercooling, it's fun, quiet and performs well. I'm using Everest and Real Temp to monitor temps.

Unfortunatly I'm not going to be able to test a max overclock situation because my Ram wont overclock more than 10 mhz. With this DFI mobo, I cant find out how to set the DDR to run at 800mhz, since I can only find dividers. I can at max run at is 405mhz FSB or 3648. I ordered Gskill DDR1000 so I can try to reach 500fsb.

My next question. At idle my core 0 is idleing 4C lower than core 1, but at full load there is a 8 degree delta where core 0 is 8C hotter than core1.

What gives?

Did I suck ass at thermal pasting?

Michael
 
Cloud15x, I have the same water block as you (DD MC-TDX).

I did not use those 3" stainless steel threaded rods. Instead, I got some 2" #6-32 stove bolts. Since these have heads on the end, you don't have to worry about tightening both nuts to hold the rod together. And the 2" bolt makes a big difference in compactness (if that's a word).

By doing this, I was able to keep my water block from shifting and also had a tighter seal between the CPU and copper block.
 
Dear Michael,

Thank you for your interest in K&N products. Yes we can do custom size filters. If you could call in so we can start the process, that would be great.

If you have any additional questions, please contact our customer support department at 1-(800)-858-3333.

Thank you for choosing K&N,

W0000000t!!!

Bump up^^ need to figure out how I want to stress both CPU and GPU to max. Any suggestions.

A) Get 3dmark06 since vantage I cant run a continuous loop unless i pay ~500 for it.
B) Orthos small ffts + some video card stress program?
C) Suggestions?

Michael
 
For those that jump to the end:

DTek fuzion:

After 8 hours or orthos and rthdribl to stress both CPU and GPU this is the temps. Now since my ram wont let the CPU past 3648, I bumped the voltages up to 1.325v to increase heat production in hopes to produce a larger detla between the two blocks.

~19C ambient temp(65-67F)
core0 44C ave 46C max
core1 35C ave 39C max

Chipset 34C ave

8800gtx @ 612/1350/936
core 48C ave 50C max

Switching WB's will have MC-TDX results up probably around noon tomorrow.

Michael
 
Looks awesome!

Can you take a picture looking at your computer from the open side?

I'd like to see how everything looks with the psu in and all connected.

Thanks
 
I will when it's all in the case :-D.

A quick rant: I fucking static shocked my 150gig raptor. Dead, post said no harddrive was found.

Bought a new one from bestbuy. Formatting vista x64 ulti again for MC-TDC test. Probably wont have by noon tomorrow since I need to get everything installed again.

I also lost my screen shot of the Dtek block testing with GPU/CPU/CPUZ temps and info stated. Sorry guys. I hope you will believe me with my stated temps as I pulled them directly off the programs.
 
I am really excited to post the DD temps, but I'm going to refrain on 2 reasons, and re do tests in a few days.

Reason 1: My friends stayed over, and we raided Hyjal last night. We had 4 computers + a 360 and TV producing heat. ++ ambient temp ~20-21c

Reason 2: The AS5 between my DTek and CPU had around 2 weeks sit time, one of which it was powered on. I would like to give the MC-TDX a day or 2 to setup.

Don't expect vastly different temps, because the wont be, but you may just be surprised.
 
Nice work and nice temps. That is one heck of a project. Wish I could spare the extra dough for a WC set up myself, but other hobbies always get in the way.
 
I've seen JB weld fix (or an attempt to) many things. I think as long as it's dry when you fill it, don't worry about it. But yes, this is no where near an auto pressure (Usually 12-16PSI dependant on a few variables).

If it were me, I'd definately go for the rad grill over the K&N filter idea... if it's not too late.
 
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