Challenge: Can I water cool Tri-SLI GTX 480's in an FT02? Please?

[stateofjermaine]

UPDATED 9/15/2010
NOW WITH VISUAL AIDES!

Here is my sad attempt at a somewhat-to-scale visual representation. FT02 owners or water cooling aficionados, please feel free to pick it apart:

Mockup Rev. 3
Mockup Rev. 2
Mockup Rev. 1

Rev. 3 Revisions
- Decided to remove HD cage, fan sled and mounts
- Upgraded bottom radiator to Black Ice GTX Gen 2 Xtreme 480
- Replaced (3) M1BX 2100 RPM Panaflo fans with (4) L1BX 1700 RPM fans
- Switched GPU blocks to Koolance VID-NX480 for better cooling at stock settings
- Swapped the Corsair AX1200 for a Strider ST1500 (due to concerns about coil whine)

Rev. 2 Revisions
- Moved top Panaflo fan above the radiator into a pull configuration; rotated barbs to the back side of the case
- Reconfigured bottom radiator and tubing to reflect accurate X-Flow design
- Moved BayRes (including Swiftech pump) into higher bays

PUMP Swiftech MCP355 Jab-tech
CPU Swiftech Apogee XT Jab-tech
RAD Black Ice GTX Gen Two Xtreme 480, Swiftech MCR120-QPK Performance PC's, Danger Den
GPU (3) Koolance VID-NX480 Water Block, (2) Koolance Dual VID SLI Connector FrozenCPU, FrozenCPU
TUBING 3/8 x 5/8 Clear PrimoFlex Pro LRT Jab-tech
FITTINGS Bitspower G1/4 Silver Compression Fittings Jab-tech, Jab-tech
RESERVOIR XSPC BayRes One Jab-tech
FANS (5) Panaflo L1BX 1700 RPM Sidewinder Computers


<< Original Post >>

Hello [H] Geniuses,

I have come to regard this forum as the best ever, so when I found this water cooling section (I'd never noticed it!) I was overcome with joy. I hope I can learn something, here. I've only been researching water cooling for about a week straight, so I have crammed, but I'm still an idiot, basically. For starters, here is the machine I'd like to build (it's for 2D Surround):

SilverStone Fortress FT02 Specs
ASUS Rampage III Extreme
Xeon E5620 2.4GHz
(3) MSI GTX 480
12GB Mushkin Enhanced
100GB OCZ Vertex 2
(2) 500GB 2.5" Seagate Momentus XT
SilverStone Strider ST1500

[Blu-ray, etc. and so on.]

Probably didn't need to post all of that, but meh, better safe. So I'd like to water cool the graphics cards (obviously), the CPU, and the chipset, if possible. I haven't read much about water cooling RAM, so maybe it's unnecessary?

From reading up a bit on the case, it looks like my best (or only?) option is to remove two of the 180mm fans at the bottom of the case, and replace them with 3 120mm fans (apparently there are alternate mounts pre-drilled). According to the SilverStone specs, the case can accommodate a radiator (not sure what thickness) along with a 10.5" graphics card. So, in theory this should be possible. I think.

Thanks in advance for the wisdom.

 

[vjcsmoke]

SilverStone Fortress FT02 Specs

That's a great case for air cooling, sucks for watercooling.

You're looking at an Obsidian 800D or a HAF X if you want to do serious watercooling.
A third option is Mountain Mods which is a bit pricier but their cases can accommodate a LOT of radiators.

I also don't think you have enough rad surface area allocated to cool tri-GTX 480s as well as the CPU.
A pair of 360s would be even better. Or maybe you can externally mount a Mora-2 pro. Now that would be pretty sick actually.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Sigh. Thanks for the quick reply!

I was afraid I'd be hearing that about the case. I do love its features and aesthetics, and I'm afraid an external Mora-2 is definitely not to my taste!

I don't intend to defend this case to the bitter end, since it seems you've already spent some significant time with it. It is disappointing to hear, though. I have to ask, when you say "serious water cooling", what do you mean exactly? To be honest, I look at it this way. This setup would be virtually impossible on air. So there really isn't a comparison, in my book, between my temperatures on air versus water. Maybe I should list my objectives, and then I can get some feedback regarding how realistic they are:

1. Run a Tri-SLI GTX 480 setup with "acceptable" temps (at or below 75C at LOAD is acceptable, in my book) at stock settings.
2. Apply a decent overclock to the CPU (above 3.5GHz).
3. Keep noise within an "acceptable" range (at or around the same dB-level as my current air-cooled setup).
4. Maintain a sleek all-around aesthetic, with no jarring external fans or other components.

Now, with the updated objectives, can I get what I'm looking for with this case? I know I'm not really aiming for "outstanding" water cooling performance, but I think the total package of moderate size, moderate noise, and outstanding performance is my goal. All of that said, if the answer is still, "Sorry, no," I will move on to selecting a new case.

Edit: Any other thoughts on the components for the loop?

 

[vjcsmoke]

Have you taken a look at the Corsair 800D? It's the definition of sleek. If it had been out when I started building my system I would have gone with that case. It looks like it has plenty of room for a dual 240 rad on the bottom and a triple at the top. You can even squeen in a quad rad at the top if you mod it. This will allow you to keep everything internal as stated.

420 (quad) rad on top after modding the top:

2x 360 rads with an HX 850.

HX1000 and 240 rad on bottom.

A Pinnacle 24 from mountain mods will accommodate both a quad and triple without any additional modifications needed by you although it's not as sleek as the 800D.

3 GTX 480s and OC'd Xeon will easily strain any cooling system. Anything that uses as much energy as fermi will produce a TON of heat. And you want to multiply this by a factor of 3.
But your 3.6ghz stated goal OC should be very easy to accomplish on water if your chip is anything like the i7 920/930 series. I could do 3.6 in my sleep on this chip even on air. The good news is that the lower OC on the cpu saves your loop from some heat as you can run it a lower wattage than those running at 4ghz+.

 

[FaRKle0079]

You can do this, but you wouldn't be able to put your mobo chipset in the loop.

Here's how I would do it:
-Remove middle and rear 180mm fans.
-Remove the platform that holds the dust filter and fan sled below the fans.
-Get a HW Labs GTX 360 radiator for the bottom
-Get as 120mm radiator for the top (has to be under 5" in width otherwise the side panel won't close).
-Put the 360 radiator on the bottom of the case, and put three 38mm thick fans on top (Panaflow/San Ace)
-Mod FT02 top cover so you can install a 25mm thick fan on top of the case frame (see my post in FT02 thread to do this).
-Get 25mm thick shroud and place it with the 120mm radiator at the 120mm fan exhaust spot.
-Get an XSPC bay res and MCP355 top and put those in the 5.25" bays.

Here's a rough idea of what it should look like. Ignore the dark blue tube going from the rad to the graphics cards, I painted that there assuming you didn't need your CPU cooled. All the blocks are scale:

 

[vjcsmoke]

Looks like it has been done. With a triple on the bottom, a 120 on the top, and removing the bottom drive cage. I don't think it's enough cooling for the components but I suppose if you don't OC too high you can get acceptable temps.

This guy's worklog should help you out in picking components.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Thanks for the taking the time, man.

First, let me say that I'm VERY familiar with the 800D. I've been reading/fantasizing about it since it came out. It's absolutely beautiful, and the cable management and features look amazing. BUT IT'S HUGE. Hmm, you've got me reconsidering, but that 24" depth definitely adds a lot of volume!

I saw it at Micro Center, and it looked great, but the size was jarring, even though I went in knowing it would be big. Do you have any other recommendations for more (excuse the blasphemy) "Mac Pro"-looking cases? The rounded edges are not a necessity, but I do like that about the FT02. If the FT02 won't work for this project, I'd love to find something a little smaller than the 800D. Heh, I think.

Okay, so I'm really thinking about the 800D, now, but could you just throw a few more sleek options out, those that would work well with water cooling?

Thanks again for your help.

Edit: Sorry, none of the above were posted when I wrote this. Hehe.

 

[vjcsmoke]

The FT02 doesn't lend itself to watercooling but it can be done if you are willing to accept less cooling performance and take out a few things. *shrug*
Oh I just read that worklog. The gpus being cooled and pictured above are 3x GTX 275s.
I'd still go with the 800D if I were you given this new info.

 

[stateofjermaine]

You can do this, but you wouldn't be able to put your mobo chipset in the loop.

Wow, that's amazing, thanks! I'll definitely have a hard look at everything you posted. May I ask why the chipset wouldn't work? Just honestly curious. Being a novice, I also don't know how important that is . . . not very?

Your diagram is so helpful! I'm wondering, though, would a radiator that size allow for the length of the graphics cards? Again, the help is much appreciated.

 

[stateofjermaine]

The FT02 doesn't lend itself to watercooling but it can be done if you are willing to accept less cooling performance and take out a few things. *shrug*
Oh I just read that worklog. The gpus being cooled and pictured above are 3x GTX 275s. That's a whole different ball of wax energy consumption-wise vs 3x480s..
I'd still go with the 800D if I were you given this new info.

Yeah, I hear you. And I'm not looking to force the issue. I'll sleep on all of this, but it looks like the FT02 is hanging by a thread at this point.

 

[vjcsmoke]

Definitely think it over. Watercooling is a big investment in time, energy, and money.

Here are some power consumption comparisons to consider.
Gtx 275 under load:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-275,2266-14.html
Gtx 480 under load:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-480,2585-15.html

Each 480 apparently consumes double the power of a 275 when comparing Tom's charts.
Allow for some slight differences for the testing system configs.
Even so try to imagine that loop cooling 6x275s...

 

[stateofjermaine]

Great information, much appreciated! They are definitely a three-headed monster in every respect. And I will keep that 800D in mind, because it is truly awesome. I'll be back after some more homework. If I did end up going with the 800D, what improvements/changes could be made to my loop?

 

[vjcsmoke]

Great information, much appreciated! They are definitely a three-headed monster in every respect. And I will keep that 800D in mind, because it is truly awesome. I'll be back after some more homework. If I did end up going with the 800D, what improvements/changes could be made to my loop?

As far as your watercooling components selection? There can definitely be some improvements made but I'd need to know your budget and your goals. Do you want this to run as fast as possible or be fast and quiet? Actually if you use a fan controller, you can choose. So that's always a good addition to keep in mind. A fan controller can let you crank the fans up for max cooling when you need it or tone them down to soothing quiet when you don't want to hear the noise.

 

[FaRKle0079]

Wow, that's amazing, thanks! I'll definitely have a hard look at everything you posted. May I ask why the chipset wouldn't work? Just honestly curious. Being a novice, I also don't know how important that is . . . not very?

Your diagram is so helpful! I'm wondering, though, would a radiator that size allow for the length of the graphics cards? Again, the help is much appreciated.

Well, technically you could still add a chipset and vrm block, but I really wouldn't want to add any more heat to that loop. Also, chips and vrm blocks aren't really worth it. They only come in handy if you're trying to do some extreme benching and overclocking.

As for the length of your gtx 480s, they'll be fine. I made everything in the picture to scale. I did the measurements on my own ft02.

 

[stateofjermaine]

As far as your watercooling components selection? There can definitely be some improvements made but I'd need to know your budget and your goals. Do you want this to run as fast as possible or be fast and quiet? Actually if you use a fan controller, you can choose. So that's always a good addition to keep in mind. A fan controller can let you crank the fans up for max cooling when you need it or tone them down to soothing quiet when you don't want to hear the noise.

As far as my goals are concerned:

1. Run a Tri-SLI GTX 480 setup with "acceptable" temps (at or below 75C at LOAD is acceptable, in my book) at stock settings.
2. Apply a decent overclock to the CPU (above 3.5GHz).
3. Keep noise within an "acceptable" range (at or around the same dB-level as my current air-cooled setup).
4. Maintain a sleek all-around aesthetic, with no jarring external fans or other components.

So, aside from the minor issue of three molten graphics cards, I don't think I have very lofty goals: moderate noise, moderate temperatures, and extreme performance. As far as my budget goes, I think it's a bit of a fluid concept, at the moment, since I have no idea what I'm up against. But it's probably safe to say at this point that I am looking for the best components that fit the space and reach my goals listed above. If I can exceed those goals, extra cake for everyone!

Prices I have seen thus far have not been unreasonable, to my mind ($100 CPU blocks, $200 GPU blocks, $150 radiators, etc.) but maybe I haven't been looking at the good stuff. That said, I think if I can fit in under $1500, I'd be happy. But I'd really just like to know what the best BFMB solution would be, and then maybe add a few nice touches here and there.

Well, technically you could still add a chipset and vrm block, but I really wouldn't want to add any more heat to that loop. Also, chips and vrm blocks aren't really worth it. They only come in handy if you're trying to do some extreme benching and overclocking.

As for the length of your gtx 480s, they'll be fine. I made everything in the picture to scale. I did the measurements on my own ft02.

This is cool. I am not overly concerned about the chipset block, then, as I will hardly be pushing the CPU by water cooling standards. I haven't checked out your FT02 mod post, yet, but I am feeling somewhat hopeful about this whole thing, at least for now. I know I need to go read some more, but could you shed some light on what shrouds are about?

Thanks everyone for the feedback and help.

 

[Deleted member 82943]

Looks like it has been done. With a triple on the bottom, a 120 on the top, and removing the bottom drive cage. I don't think it's enough cooling for the components but I suppose if you don't OC too high you can get acceptable temps.

This guy's worklog should help you out in picking components.

omg, that's the sexiest setup ever. My you guys are so spoiled....freaking awesome!

good luck to the op in doing this.

 

[FaRKle0079]

I just finished adding a 120mm radiator up top like in the diagram I drew for you. Here's my system now:

Shrouds are the 25mm thick fans beneath my 38mm San Ace fans. A common way, and how I made mine, was to take a normal 25mm fan and cut out the middle of it. That means getting rid of the fan motor and mounts that connect to the motor hub from the frame of the fan. You then use the empty frame as a spacer/shroud. This lessens the dead zone for the fan motor hub and also makes it run quieter so you can turn up the rpms for more cooling power.

A shroud or fan is pretty much required up top because the 180mm fan switches won't let you mount a 120mm radiator up top flush with the case frame. In my case I added a shroud and put a 120mm fan on top of the case frame for better performance, although you don't have to do it that way (it's also more work).

 

[vjcsmoke]

I just finished adding a 120mm radiator up top like in the diagram I drew for you. Here's my system now:

Shrouds are the 25mm thick fans beneath my 38mm San Ace fans. A common way, and how I made mine, was to take a normal 25mm fan and cut out the middle of it. That means getting rid of the fan motor and mounts that connect to the motor hub from the frame of the fan. You then use the empty frame as a spacer/shroud. This lessens the dead zone for the fan motor hub and also makes it run quieter so you can turn up the rpms for more cooling power.

A shroud or fan is pretty much required up top because the 180mm fan switches won't let you mount a 120mm radiator up top flush with the case frame. In my case I added a shroud and put a 120mm fan on top of the case frame for better performance, although you don't have to do it that way (it's also more work).

Very neatly done. I like it. But I can't help but notice a few things.
1. You're only cooling 1x5870 gpu and your cpu. The 5870 generates a lot less heat than a GTX 480 and the OP wants to do 3x480s.
2. You only managed to fit in a double 240 rad and a single 120 rad. That might be enough for cooling two components but your heat dissipation requirements are a lot less as well.
3. I like the fan shroud idea but that definitely creates clearance issue and prohibits a triple on the bottom. Then again you kept your bottom 180 fans. But even taking them out, the rad and fans would have been too tall to clear the video card.

 

[FaRKle0079]

Very neatly done. I like it. But I can't help but notice a few things.
1. You're only cooling 1x5870 gpu and your cpu. The 5870 generates a lot less heat than a GTX 480 and the OP wants to do 3x480s.
2. You only managed to fit in a double 240 rad and a single 120 rad. That might be enough for cooling two components but your heat dissipation requirements are a lot less as well.
3. I like the fan shroud idea but that definitely creates clearance issue and prohibits a triple on the bottom. Then again you kept your bottom 180 fans. But even taking them out, the rad and fans would have been too tall to clear the video card.

The picture wasn't to show OP how it should be set up necessarily, but to explain the top 120mm radiator and how I would set it up.

I'm not even cooling my 5870 with the WC loop.

Also, in my instructions to OP I told him to remove the 180mm fans in addition to the sleds and mounts that they sit on. If he does that he'll have enough room for a BI GTX 360 plus fans and shrouds considering that the GTX 480 is shorter by half an inch over the 5870. The BI GTX 360, according to Skinnee, can dissipate around 680W of heat with a set of Yate Loons running at 1800rpm. Imagine how much better it can do with a set of 38mm thick Panaflos or San Aces. Considering each GTX480 draws about 275W of power when at max, the heat output should be less than that, which is manageable. The 120mm radiator is essential if OP wants to put his CPU in the loop.

 

[stateofjermaine]

The picture wasn't to show OP how it should be set up necessarily, but to explain the top 120mm radiator and how I would set it up.

I'm not even cooling my 5870 with the WC loop.

Also, in my instructions to OP I told him to remove the 180mm fans in addition to the sleds and mounts that they sit on. If he does that he'll have enough room for a BI GTX 360 plus fans and shrouds considering that the GTX 480 is shorter by half an inch over the 5870. The BI GTX 360, according to Skinnee, can dissipate around 680W of heat with a set of Yate Loons running at 1800rpm. Imagine how much better it can do with a set of 38mm thick Panaflos or San Aces. Considering each GTX480 draws about 275W of power when at max, the heat output should be less than that, which is manageable. The 120mm radiator is essential if OP wants to put his CPU in the loop.

Sweet. Food for thought.

 

[stateofjermaine]

I also think this might somewhat apply. Maybe.

Water Cooled RV02 + GTX295

 

[vjcsmoke]

The video card is NOT In the loop pictured. It's a clean install because there are less parts involved, just the cpu and the mobo chipset.

Honestly just go with the FT02 because I can tell that's what you really want to do. And there's nothing wrong with going that route. Just don't be disappointed when you don't get the temps you're looking for because you already knew the risks going in. Less rads = less cooling. More energy consumed = More heat that needs to be dissipatedt. That's all it boils down to.

If you believe that the GTX 480 is a 275w video card, I've got some iceboxes in alaska I want to sell you.
http://www.techspot.com/review/263-nvidia-geforce-gtx-480/page13.html
GTX 295 power consumption stock = 462W
GTX 480 power consumption stock = 506W

GTX 480 Tri-SLI power consumption
http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-480-3way-sli-review/25

Now increase the voltage and heat to OC the 480 to 900mhz. Now multiply those heat increases by 3. It's simply math and thermodynamics. But you don't need an engineering degree to tell what's going to happen.

 

[FaRKle0079]

If you believe that the GTX 480 is a 275w video card, I've got some iceboxes in alaska I want to sell you.
http://www.techspot.com/review/263-n...80/page13.html
GTX 295 power consumption stock = 462W
GTX 480 power consumption stock = 506W

In the Guru article we can calculate how much power each card is using:
-Taking the difference between 3 GTX 480s and 2 GTX 480s at idle we can get the idle consumption, which is 51W.
-Multiply 51W by 3 to get tri-SLI idle consumption: 153W
-Subtract tri-SLI idle from tri-SLI load: 682W
-Add 150W to difference to get total power draw from the graphics cards only: 835W
-Divide by 3 to get individual power draw of each GTX 480: 278W

278W is darn close to my generalization of 275W no?

Now the other thing to realize is that not all the power consumed by the GPU goes into waste heat, so the heat output figure is below the power draw, but not a huge amount.

 

[stateofjermaine]

The video card is NOT In the loop pictured. It's a clean install because there are less parts involved, just the cpu and the mobo chipset.

Honestly just go with the FT02 because I can tell that's what you really want to do. And there's nothing wrong with going that route. Just don't be disappointed when you don't get the temps you're looking for because you already knew the risks going in. Less rads = less cooling. More energy consumed = More heat that needs to be dissipatedt. That's all it boils down to.

Heh, yeah, I know the graphics card wasn't in the loop. I was just using it (nearly identical space, nearly identical card dimensions, nearly identical fans and radiator) to judge space limitations. I think the 360 will fit.

Regarding the power/heat issues, I'm still just trying to sit back and take notes. I admit, I do favor the FT02 (hence the blog), but not if it doesn't make sense. Also, remember, no overclocking on the GTX480's.

 

[Deleted member 82943]

one could go with SSDs and then use the HDD drive bay for a pump

 

[Necere]

In the Guru article we can calculate how much power each card is using:
[...]

No need for excessive math - the GTX 480 consumes up to 310w.

Most reviewers use the total system draw from the wall to calculate power consumption, which means all the component plus the inefficiency of the PSU (~15-20%). Trying to calculate the power consumption of individual components using total system power consumption is an inaccurate estimation, at best. A few sites use a much more accurate method to determine power draw, right down to the exact current draw on individual rails.

Now the other thing to realize is that not all the power consumed by the GPU goes into waste heat, so the heat output figure is below the power draw, but not a huge amount.

Where do you think the rest of the energy goes? Remember conservation of energy? It all turns into heat, eventually. Not all of that heat makes its way into the GPU heatsink/waterblock, but what doesn't ends up being radiated/convected/conducted inside the case.

 

[stateofjermaine]

one could go with SSDs and then use the HDD drive bay for a pump

The thought did cross my mind.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Posted some updates. I guess for now I'll stick with the FT02. As vjcsmoke noted, I do seem to keep leaning that way. At least as I learn more about components, if I decide to go with a bigger case, I'll still have a general idea of what I'm doing. Anyway, I made quite a few changes:

- Upgraded the radiator to an X-Flow Black Ice Extreme III
- Added an XSPC BayRes One, and (by necessity) switched to an MCP355 pump
- Switched the DD GPU water blocks for XSPC Razor GTX480's
- Settled on Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000 (120mm x 120mm x 38mm; 87 CFM, 2000 RPM) radiator fans

The Black Ice radiators, the Razor water block, and the BayRes One setup have all reviewed very well, while the MCP355 seems to be a pretty ubiquitous pump option. Does anyone think that the switch from an MCP655 will be significant performance-wise? I think it would work well, setup-wise, in the case, but of course that doesn't matter if performance is awful, or temperatures are dangerous. I've tinkered with ideas for the loop a bit, but the general idea is the same, I think.

Edit: Also, I'm wondering about tubing. The Primochill tubing seems to be very nice, but I'm not up-to-speed on the barb sizes, adapters, and general feelings about all of that. It seems like 3/8" fittings and tubing would be fine, and I just realized that I can choose the barb size on the radiators, but again, I am still a noob. There are options on the Jab-tech site for "High-Flow" and "Perfect Seal" barbs&#8212;anyone care to enlighten me? Also, I'm not sure I'm clear on how the three GPU water blocks "link up". Is there a separate adapter I need to purchase, or do they just play well automagically?

I guess that's it for this update. Criticism and insults welcome, so long as they are constructive or help build character.

 

[FaRKle0079]

Upgraded the radiators to Black Ice GTX's

Radiators or radiator? A Black Ice GTX 120 won't fit up top. I made the mistake of trying it. Personally, I'm using a Swiftech MCR-120QP.

Settled on Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000 (120mm x 120mm x 38mm; 87 CFM, 2000 RPM) radiator fans

I would get some different fans considering the Ultra Kaze fans are sleeve bearing and you'll be orienting them horizontally. Panaflo or San Ace fans would work much better! I've got three San Ace fans for sale if you're interested. They're pricier, but I'd be willing to cut you a deal too if you want all three. Here are the specs.

Also, if you're going to be using high rpm and louder fans you might want to check out the Black Ice Xtreme III radiator. I hear it performs a bit better than the GTX.

Does anyone think that the switch from an MCP655 will be significant performance-wise? I think it would work well, setup-wise, in the case, but of course that doesn't matter if performance is awful, or temperatures are dangerous. I've tinkered with ideas for the loop a bit, but the general idea is the same, I think.

The MCP355 is better for your application than the MCP655. It has more pressure and will be able to get better flow through all the GPU blocks.

Also, I'm wondering about tubing. The Primochill tubing seems to be very nice, but I'm not up-to-speed on the barb sizes, adapters, and general feelings about all of that. It seems like 3/8" fittings and tubing would be fine, and I just realized that I can choose the barb size on the radiators, but again, I am still a noob. There are options on the Jab-tech site for "High-Flow" and "Perfect Seal" barbs&#8212;anyone care to enlighten me? Also, I'm not sure I'm clear on how the three GPU water blocks "link up". Is there a separate adapter I need to purchase, or do they just play well automagically?

3/8" is a bit easier to route than 1/2". I'm using 1/2" and it works pretty well in my system. It'll let you have better flow rates over 3/8". As for the GPU blocks you can put small pieces of tubing between them. They also have SLI adapters you can buy specifically for this. As for barbs, there really isn't too much difference between them. You also have the option of compression fittings, but they're double the price.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Radiators or radiator? A Black Ice GTX 120 won't fit up top. I made the mistake of trying it.

Ooh, good catch! I forgot that was the reason I had the Swiftech in the first place. Will update.

 

[stateofjermaine]

I would get some different fans considering the Ultra Kaze fans are sleeve bearing and you'll be orienting them horizontally. Panaflo or San Ace fans would work much better!

Okay, I didn't know anything about orientation issues with sleeve bearing fans. I learned today! Also, I looked into the Panaflo fans, but the sound characteristics were not very pleasing to my ear. They struck me as quite 'buzzy', as opposed to the more 'wooshy' noise I heard from the Scythe fans. For example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmfJpveSOjk

Maybe something was awry in the video? Anyway, I haven't looked deeply into the San Aces. I will be sure to do that.

Also, if you're going to be using high rpm and louder fans you might want to check out the Black Ice Xtreme III radiator. I hear it performs a bit better than the GTX.

Good deal. I'll check it out, thanks!

 

[stateofjermaine]

The Extreme III says it ships with G1/4" BSPP threads, and "includes 1/2" Fat Boy fittings". Does that pose a problem with the pump being 3/8"?

Edit: Sorry! Could have easily just looked it up myself. Looks like FrozenCPU has it with 3/8" fittings, so obviously that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[FaRKle0079]

The Extreme III says it ships with G1/4" BSPP threads

G1/4" BSPP threads are standard. Nothing to worry about.

 

[stateofjermaine]

G1/4" BSPP threads are standard. Nothing to worry about.

Great, I learned again! Also, I think your link to the fan specs was broken. I dug around and found these San Aces that look pretty amazing (they all look pretty amazing, actually). I always get confused with AC vs. DC power on fans, but it says they ship with bare leads, so it seemed alright for case-use. Are these along the lines of what you had in mind?

 

[FaRKle0079]

Great, I learned again! Also, I think your link to the fan specs was broken. I dug around and found these San Aces that look pretty amazing (they all look pretty amazing, actually). I always get confused with AC vs. DC power on fans, but it says they ship with bare leads, so it seemed alright for case-use. Are these along the lines of what you had in mind?

Fixed the link. The M101 is slower than the H101, but the same family of fans. If you have a fan controller (very good idea) it's always a better idea to get the higher speed model and turn it down to what you want. "Bare leads" mean it comes with just the wires. You need to put your own 3pin connectors on the fan.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Fixed the link. The M101 is slower than the H101, but the same family of fans. If you have a fan controller (very good idea) it's always a better idea to get the higher speed model and turn it down to what you want. "Bare leads" mean it comes with just the wires. You need to put your own 3pin connectors on the fan.

I would tend to agree, but only up to your sound threshold. I think at some point there's not much value in having fans that can spin two or three times faster than you would ever need. And after doing some testing (using the Antec Tri-Cools in my current setup and some decent sound demos online), I think I've determined that roughly 40 dB represents my single-fan noise threshold. I (and my wife) just couldn't handle more than that. Thanks for the offer, but I probably won't be buying parts until I get back from Basic Training in December. Don't know if it would do you any good, by then!

Edit: Do you know the RPM's on the M101 model? I will definitely check out some fan controllers, either way.

Regarding the leads, I figured the bare leads would require connectors of some kind. Is it fairly simple attaching plugs? Oh, and could you explain the difference between DC and AC fans? I can't find simple explanation anywhere. Thanks again.

 

[FaRKle0079]

Edit: Do you know the RPM's on the M101 model? I will definitely check out some fan controllers, either way.

Here's the M101 spec sheet. It's rated for 1950rpm.

Regarding the leads, I figured the bare leads would require connectors of some kind. Is it fairly simple attaching plugs? Oh, and could you explain the difference between DC and AC fans? I can't find simple explanation anywhere. Thanks again.

You need to buy the pins, and then find the 3pin female housing. I solder the pins to the leads and then insert the pins into the housing. It's not super difficult, but tracking down the parts numbers and suppliers isn't normally super easy. If you don't mind paying 25%-50% more you can get them from places like FrozenCPU.

AC and DC fans operate completely diferently. Your power supply puts out DC voltage. If you were to use an AC fan you'd have to plug it into your wall socket. You want DC 12V fans since they'll be compatible with your PSU.

 

[stateofjermaine]

Thanks, good stuff. I'll definitely pay the extra few dollars to avoid "modding" any fan connectors. Speaking of not-modding, is there anywhere I can get a shroud for the radiators? I'm hoping for something a little more aesthetically pleasing than a gutted fan.

And aside from that, does everything look workable, now? I've heard I should get 15 feet or so of tubing, to leave space for screw ups. Also, what about testing, bleeding, leaks, etc.? I've heard of putting a T in the line to make bleeding easier. Should I do something along those lines?

Anything else? Man, your help has been invaluable!

 

[Deleted member 82943]

OT - OP what will you use this tri-sli beast for? will the third 480 be used for physx? what games will you play? will you be doing 3d?

 

[vjcsmoke]

If you're buying from jab-tech, and you're after the sleekest look, forget barbs and just buy compression fittings. Jab-tech gives you a discount on bitspower compression fittings if you buy 8 or more, which you will need to connect this kind of loop. The black loop pictured above uses comp fittings as well. I hear that Koolance also makes quality comp fittings from my understanding but they look kind of plain in comparison to the BPs. BP also lets you pick between chrome color or black color for fittings.