Asus P5E-VM HDMI: best matx ever?

NichoTL said:
I don't have a Q6600. I own a C0 E8200 that I'm running 24/7 at 3.6GHz. I've pushed it to 3.8 once, seemed stable but when running ORTHOS my temps were getting too high for my taste (that was with my Ultima 90). Now with the HR-01 PLUS, I've taken 8 degrees or so off my IBT temps, so that'll give me enough room to up my voltages again. But my temps are not comparable with yours. Different CPU, different frequency. To give you an idea, IBT will push my core temps and CPUTIN to 52 degrees Celsius.
Click to expand...

8 degrees is pretty good. I could live with that if I was to upgrade from my Blue Orb II to the Xigmatek HDT-S1283.

When you just change your CPU multiplier, You're only impacting the CPU so vDIMM shouldn't have to change when you go from 7 to 8. I'm not sure about vPLL, but I operate on the assumption that you shouldn't have to change it either. You can then separate the whole thing into 3 different sections: Mem, CPU and 'The Rest' (essentially the NB). So far we've always kept your memory at rated frequencies so we've never had to worry about memory parameters. When changing the BUS frequency, lowering the CPU ratio prevents you from raising the CPU frequency (you then don't have to worry about CPU voltage). Then you just have to fix 'The Rest'. When that's done, you raise CPU ratio and just have to fix the CPU voltage.
Click to expand...

I see. Regardless, my temps were always high and it didn't matter (except for a couple of degrees or so) whether I was at 1.2V or 1.3V for vCPU. But I'll try lowering the vNB, vPLL and vDIMM voltages again, leaving the rest as they are now (1.312V vCPU, 8x ratio and 400FSB).

My temps on a full load without using IBT maxes out at 69-70C on the cores with the settings I use now (3.2GHz @ 1.312V).

In your opinion then, are you confident that I need to replace my cooler? Anything else we can try to "eliminate" that doubt?
 
Anyone have this problem on their P5E-VM HDMI systems and Vista 64?

In system properties (Control Panel), it shows the processor you have and its rated speed. Beside that, it shows you the speed it's currently running at. If yours is OC'd to anything other than 2.40GHz, what does it show on your end?

Before, when I OC'd to 3 GHz using a 9x multiplier it'd show 2.39GHz. Now, using an 8x multiplier it shows 2.13GHz even though it's OC'd to 3.20GHz. I'm no longer 100% sure that my system is actually running at 3.20GHz. See screenshot I posted earlier if you're not sure what I'm referring to:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1233021&page=63

(Page 63, post# 1256.)

I'm trying to figure out how to force it to show the actual speed it's currently running at. Or, at least confirm that it's misreporting it.
 
I would trust what the BIOS (and CPU-Z) is reporting over what Vista's Control Panel says. The CPUID guy is responsive to email last I checked, you could mention your question to him.

Also, compare your SuperPi 1M score to others running the Q6600 if you're still concerned.
 
I would trust what the BIOS is reporting (and CPU-Z) over what Vista's Control Panel says.
Click to expand...

Same here, but it makes you curious why MS can't detect your actual clock speed properly.

Compare your SuperPi 1M score to others running the Q6600 too if you're still concerned.
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by comparing my SuperPi 1M score. How do I do that?
 
yorkman said:
Not sure what you mean by comparing my SuperPi 1M score. How do I do that?
Click to expand...

You could compare any such benchmark, but I think you're most likely to find examples of SuperPi 1M. By that I just mean calculating Pi to 1M digits with the tool below, and then comparing your time to others running a Q6600 at a similar OC.

http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/

EDIT: See these links for SuperPi 1M scores
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/445761-q6600-superpi-1m.html
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/?tag=pcb_spi
 
NichoTL said:
Hmm I don't think the NB temp is actually reported by the Winbond chip on this board. On HWMonitor, you only have 2 temps: SYSTIN which is a 'board temp', which is indicative of how well the hot air is being taken out of your case. CPUTIN which is (as the name would suggest) a CPU temp that, I think, is taken at the CPU heatspreader (the area of contact between the CPU and the cooler IIRC). But I'm not 100% sure about all this.
Click to expand...

I have ordered a couple different aftermarket NB coolers and will verify this.

Really more out of curiousity than anything else, since I'm running a relatively meek 445MHz (*9) with the E8400 and only 333MHz (*10.5) with the E5200, and I'm only half-way up the scale of available voltages for vPLL, vFSB Termination, vNB in either case. Seems to me the stock sink should be more than sufficient with decent airflow (and Winter ambient. :p)

I based my guess that CPUTIN is really the NB temp because for me it is always 5-10C hotter than my core temps and I can't see how the "cores" could be cooler than the heatspreader. We'll see.
 
bing said:
You could compare any such benchmark, but I think you're most likely to find examples of SuperPi 1M. By that I just mean calculating Pi to 1M digits with the tool below, and then comparing your time to others running a Q6600 at a similar OC.

http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/

EDIT: See these links for SuperPi 1M scores
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/445761-q6600-superpi-1m.html
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/?tag=pcb_spi
Click to expand...

So what does it mean if I always get "Incorrect checksum"? I tried 16K and 1MB. What is the point of this anyway?

Even when I verify this user's PI it doesn't pass validation:

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7287/12484s407ghzuz5.jpg
 
I'm not at home now so I don't know what the room temperature is but it should be around 20C (basement). I get 18.991 seconds at 1MB. Guess I'm not running at full speed afterall. I am running something else though at full load in the background so perhaps that's skewing the reading.
 
yorkman said:
I'm not at home now so I don't know what the room temperature is but it should be around 20C (basement). I get 18.991 seconds at 1MB. Guess I'm not running at full speed afterall. I am running something else though at full load in the background so perhaps that's skewing the reading.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you need to be totally idle to test (use task manager.) BTW, what speed does IBT report?

I've been googling, and I'd hazard a guess that if your core temps stay under 70C with a Q6600, you're fine. Otherwise, invest in a better cooler and/or turn up a fan or two (and/or lap the surfaces and/or switch to MX-2.)
 
bing said:
Yeah, you need to be totally idle to test (use task manager.) BTW, what speed does IBT report?

I've been googling, and I'd hazard a guess that if your core temps stay under 70C with a Q6600, you're fine. Otherwise, invest in a better cooler and/or turn up a fan or two (and/or lap the surfaces and/or switch to MX-2.)
Click to expand...

I thought so, regarding the temps. Right now, as per SpeedFan, my temps don't go higher than 70C on the cores so I'm just within that limit. IBT doesn't report your speed, only the amount of available memory.

I'm skeptical however that I'll get much lower temps if I switch to another cooler, such as the Xigmatek HDT-S1283 (I think that's the best there is at lowering your cpu temps). I may just put up my large room fan with the side case open which should lower the temp. by up to 5C. I don't sit in front of the pc much as I often work on it remotely so noise doesn't matter much. That should make up for any improvement I'm missing out on by using the HS I have now.

Lapping the HS and CPU is on my agenda. I've even bought some 220, 800 and 1000 grade sandpaper. But it takes like an hour for the cpu and probably lots of manual hand labor so right now I don't have much time for that. But I will eventually. Kind of scared though. And if anything goes wrong my warranty is void.

Got 16.925 PI without load.
 
yorkman said:
I'm skeptical however that I'll get much lower temps if I switch to another cooler, such as the Xigmatek HDT-S1283 (I think that's the best there is at lowering your cpu temps).
Click to expand...

Don't be so sure, http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...-xigmatek-hdt-s1283-cpu-cooler-review-10.html

That was the first link I found but there are probably more reviews that are even more applicable to your choice. I really like the Noctua NH-U12P myself, great cooler, and with QC and all the included goodies it's a bargain if you OC.
 
yorkman said:
I thought so, regarding the temps. Right now, as per SpeedFan, my temps don't go higher than 70C on the cores so I'm just within that limit. IBT doesn't report your speed, only the amount of available memory.

I'm skeptical however that I'll get much lower temps if I switch to another cooler, such as the Xigmatek HDT-S1283 (I think that's the best there is at lowering your cpu temps). I may just put up my large room fan with the side case open which should lower the temp. by up to 5C. I don't sit in front of the pc much as I often work on it remotely so noise doesn't matter much. That should make up for any improvement I'm missing out on by using the HS I have now.

Lapping the HS and CPU is on my agenda. I've even bought some 220, 800 and 1000 grade sandpaper. But it takes like an hour for the cpu and probably lots of manual hand labor so right now I don't have much time for that. But I will eventually. Kind of scared though. And if anything goes wrong my warranty is void.

Got 16.925 PI without load.
Click to expand...


OK I'm back. I'm having some weird temp results with my new cooler. I need to investigate.

Don't worry about what Windows report as speed, it's only cpuz that matters.

Regarding the cooler, the Xigmatek 1283 is one of the best, and much cheaper than the TRUE. Here in Sweden you can find the the Xigmatek 1284 relatively cheap compared to both the 1283 and the TRUE. And the 1284 has got a quiet PWM fan with 4 white LEDs (so you don't feel too sad about your Blue Orb). I still think that you're ging to be limited by your cooler if you want to take your O/C further. Lapping your CPU will help a little, but clearly not as much as a new heatsink IMHO.
 
bing said:
I based my guess that CPUTIN is really the NB temp because for me it is always 5-10C hotter than my core temps and I can't see how the "cores" could be cooler than the heatspreader. We'll see.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know that does not make much sense. Is your 3850 cooled passively?
 
NichoTL said:
Yeah I know that does not make much sense. Is your 3850 cooled passively?
Click to expand...

I googled around for half an hour on the CPUTIN question and with various different boards some are running CPUTIN at half of the core temps, and some are running 20C higher than core temps.

:confused:

I wish more people would post HWMonitor screenshots in threads like these.

The 3850 is now in the E5200 system, it has the OEM fan but I just ordered an A/C Accelero S1 V2.

The E8400 system now has a 9800GTX+, stock with OEM fan.
 
NichoTL said:
OK I'm back. I'm having some weird temp results with my new cooler. I need to investigate.

Don't worry about what Windows report as speed, it's only cpuz that matters.

Regarding the cooler, the Xigmatek 1283 is one of the best, and much cheaper than the TRUE. Here in Sweden you can find the the Xigmatek 1284 relatively cheap compared to both the 1283 and the TRUE. And the 1284 has got a quiet PWM fan with 4 white LEDs (so you don't feel too sad about your Blue Orb). I still think that you're ging to be limited by your cooler if you want to take your O/C further. Lapping your CPU will help a little, but clearly not as much as a new heatsink IMHO.
Click to expand...

What weird temp results? Higher than your old HS? What temps were you getting before, and what do you get now?

Which HS did you get again? I don't recall it being the Xigmatek 1283 or 1284 so why not these? Newegg has the 1283 for $45 CDN now, free shipping. Though the "free shipping" is bullshit if you ask me. When you checkout, they add $6.08 handling and still charge $1.22 for shipping to Toronto. Where's the free shipping in that?! I hate retailers like that!

I think if I was to buy one it'd be from this site...even better prices, for Canadians at least:

http://www.directcanada.com/search/?kw=xigmatek%20hdt

From this page (or entire site), which cpu cooler do you guys recommend for my system? And do I need to buy a mounting kit separately or do these Xigmatek's come with all I need for my P5E-VM HDMI board? I noticed on the site that they have a crossbow mounting kit for these Xigmatek's for $10 which leads me to believe that a mounting kit may not be included.
 
This one!
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=16720AC9955&vpn=NH-U12P&manufacture=Noctua

OK, I'm biased, Noctua fanboi. Sorry. :p

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2199&page=1

It comes with SOLID mounting hardware (does not rely on crappy plastic pins.) AMD hardware too, and the same HS also supports LGA1366 with a new bracket kit (for an extra $7.) Plus, it comes with a best-in-class fan AND thermal goop that's on par with MX-2, voltage reducing pigtails to slow the fan if you can, etc.
 
yorkman said:
What weird temp results? Higher than your old HS? What temps were you getting before, and what do you get now?

Which HS did you get again? I don't recall it being the Xigmatek 1283 or 1284 so why not these? Newegg has the 1283 for $45 CDN now, free shipping. Though the "free shipping" is bullshit if you ask me. When you checkout, they add $6.08 handling and still charge $1.22 for shipping to Toronto. Where's the free shipping in that?! I hate retailers like that!

I think if I was to buy one it'd be from this site...even better prices, for Canadians at least:

http://www.directcanada.com/search/?kw=xigmatek%20hdt

From this page (or entire site), which cpu cooler do you guys recommend for my system? And do I need to buy a mounting kit separately or do these Xigmatek's come with all I need for my P5E-VM HDMI board? I noticed on the site that they have a crossbow mounting kit for these Xigmatek's for $10 which leads me to believe that a mounting kit may not be included.
Click to expand...

It's the HR-01 Plus from Thermalright that I got, which is slightly behind the 2 Xigmatek and the TRUE for high airflow but is much better than the other 3 in low airflow (read quiet/silent), at least according to silentpcreview.com. Also because I had an Ultima 90 before, I didn't have to unscrew the mobo because the backplate is the same.

As for the Xig HSs, they come with pushpins, but you can order the backplate system (crossbow) if you prefer. In theory the pushpins are enough. But some people don't like it.
 
i have a question...
is it me or the board that i receive is brown... not black?
i mean the PCB...
is it because i got a P5E-VM HDMI <GREEN>?
and the back of the mobo looks pretty damn greasy to me...
should i do a RMA or i m just being too picky?
i mean i have been using a few ASUS board... but this is the first time that it look kinda dirty to me...
 
KeymaN said:
i have a question...
is it me or the board that i receive is brown... not black?
i mean the PCB...
is it because i got a P5E-VM HDMI <GREEN>?
and the back of the mobo looks pretty damn greasy to me...
should i do a RMA or i m just being too picky?
i mean i have been using a few ASUS board... but this is the first time that it look kinda dirty to me...
Click to expand...

They're brown so that's normal. But greesy at the back of the board is not. How greasy are we talking? Do you see it if you run your finger over it? If so then that's definitely not normal and if it was me I'd exchange it if I just bought it. It should not be dirty...though I'm not talking to perfection either so a slight smudge somewhere is fine.
 
I finally decided to replace my Blue Orb II with the OCZ Vendetta 2 (stock fan) using MX-2 paste. A noticeable difference in more ways than one.

First, the size. I thought the blue orb was big when I was installing it but after installing this sucker and not being able to close my side window, I realized just how enormous it is.

Second and more importantly. The temperature went down by 12C! A big plus. As a result, I've been able to take my OC to the next level and can say that it's mission accomplished @ 3.60 GHz, currently testing @ vCPU 1.475.

Still trying to get it stable for more than 20 mins however. And although my temps are what they were with the Blue Orb II @ 72C max. on the core, the one thing that is not the same is the System temp. which reaches 55C.

How safe are these temps? Of course they're not what I'd like them to be, but are these at the border line or max. recommended?

Can someone run SpeedFan on their system with a Q6600 @ 3.6GHz or more and tell me what temps you're getting for System, CPU and the 4 cores?

Here's my temps after prime95 runnig for 16 mins and the one beside it @ 19 mins:
speedfan_3.60GHz.jpg
speedfan_3.60GHz_2.jpg


Btw, whoever invented pushpins should be shot!! It's never easy and I've always hated them!

Well, it looks like mission not quite accomplished after all as the last thread in prime95 just stopped after 28 mins. Temps are too high anyway so to make it stable I'd probably have to raise my vCPU from 1.475 to 1.485 or even 1.5...and then the temps will be way too high! I'll probably have to settle for 3.5GHz :-(
 
but IIRC... that the P5E-VM HDMI is a black PCB mobo
at least thatz what every told me and so does the pictures i see on the internet and ASUS own official website...
and that is the only reason y i m buying this mobo... because it is for the color theme of this rig...
but right now it is nothing compare to the pictures i have seen...
itz completely shit brown and like i said b4...
the back of the mobo looks oily and greasy... and there is like 2-3 smudges of white stuff of it...
and yes i just bought it recently and it just shipped to my place yesterday...

PS. the forum is a little buggy... stuff being roll back... i cant quote stuff...
 
If you're only comparing to a picture then that's the reason. What you see in a picture may differ slightly in real life.

It's dark brown, trust me. Anyway, sounds like you're not happy with it at all and the grease is a suspect so I'd return or exchange it.
 
i guess it is me having too high expectation of the color
cuz i had everything else in black PCB...
really hoped to find a black PCB 775 matx board =/
but more importantly is that the oily/greasy thing + white smudges on the back is really a turn off...
 
KeymaN said:
i guess it is me having too high expectation of the color
cuz i had everything else in black PCB...
really hoped to find a black PCB 775 matx board =/
but more importantly is that the oily/greasy thing + white smudges on the back is really a turn off...
Click to expand...

grease? where'd you buy it? anyway, i'd send it back as soon as possible.
 
yorkman said:
I finally decided to replace my Blue Orb II with the OCZ Vendetta 2 (stock fan) using MX-2 paste. A noticeable difference in more ways than one.

First, the size. I thought the blue orb was big when I was installing it but after installing this sucker and not being able to close my side window, I realized just how enormous it is.

Second and more importantly. The temperature went down by 12C! A big plus. As a result, I've been able to take my OC to the next level and can say that it's mission accomplished @ 3.60 GHz, currently testing @ vCPU 1.475.

Still trying to get it stable for more than 20 mins however. And although my temps are what they were with the Blue Orb II @ 72C max. on the core, the one thing that is not the same is the System temp. which reaches 55C.

How safe are these temps? Of course they're not what I'd like them to be, but are these at the border line or max. recommended?
Btw, whoever invented pushpins should be shot!! It's never easy and I've always hated them!

Well, it looks like mission not quite accomplished after all as the last thread in prime95 just stopped after 28 mins. Temps are too high anyway so to make it stable I'd probably have to raise my vCPU from 1.475 to 1.485 or even 1.5...and then the temps will be way too high! I'll probably have to settle for 3.5GHz :-(
Click to expand...

1. Glad to see that you changed your cooler. IIRC, the OCZ is a Xigmatek repackaged so that explains its performance.
2. Don't worry too much about your temps running Prime95. Of course they are high, but they represent a worst-case scenario and normal usage (even intense 3D gaming) will never come close to these temps.
3. The voltage still seems quite high to me. Maybe it's your Q6600 sample. But can you confirm that if you keep ALL settings unchanged and drop the CPU multiplier to 8 you have a totally stable system (I'm talking 6-8 hours of ORTHOS minimum for stress-testing)?
4. Is your SYSTIN higher than with the Orb?
 
Yes, I've had several reasons to finally change it (besides the obvious)...1) price only $37 after taxes and rebate 2) local availability - I bought it without ordering online 3) like you said it's practically a Xigmatek but according to 2 reviews I read it's even a little better than the HDT-S1283. MX-2 was also available locally, both items I expected to buy online because I couldn't find a local shop that had them.

Anyway, I could try my other Q6600 which I bought used for the kids pc but I HATE pushpin clips with a passion. I'd rather remove the mobo, honestly, like with my Blue Orb II since you only have to do it once. After the bracket is screwed in behind the mobo it's just a matter of screwing down 2 screws...or unscrewing 2 screws if you want to remove the cooler. It could NOT be easier! And with the Vendetta2, you have to remove the fan if you want to install/remove the HS and that's a bit of a pain too. The fins are very delicate and get bent easily.

I increased the vCPU to 1.4875 but it's still not enough to be stable, plus the temps go to 77C which I think is too high..and like you said, 1.4875 is too high. I'm not sure the vdroop is working again...I noticed a bigger vdroop after OC'ing from 3.2GHz to 3.6GHz (went from around 1.43V idle to 1.40V full). After lowering the voltage to 1.45V in BIOS I'm able to run my pc overnight, stable, but at 3.5GHz. I use rybka3 - 4 cores 24/7 and it maxes out at about 68C on the cores and 50C on the SYSTEM which I assume is my motherboard temp. I'm still not sure what CPU means as that goes up to 59C. If system is my mobo than I assume CPU must be the NB. What reading do you get for SYSTEM and at what voltage and cpu speed (using SpeedFan)?

And yes, my system was stable for hours with the settings we came up with before...8x ratio and 3.20GHz @ 1.312V (with blue orb ii). I'd like to stay with 8x and try raising my fsb from 400 to maybe 450 but when I do that then ram speed starts rising from 800MHz to like 991MHz and I know the ram (rated 800MHz) won't be able to handle that much.

So I'm not sure what to try next.
 
yorkman said:
Anyway, I could try my other Q6600 which I bought used for the kids pc but I HATE pushpin clips with a passion. I'd rather remove the mobo, honestly, like with my Blue Orb II since you only have to do it once.
Click to expand...

Now you understand why Xigmatek gives you the option of buying the mounting plate thingy...

And yes, my system was stable for hours with the settings we came up with before...8x ratio and 3.20GHz @ 1.312V (with blue orb ii). I'd like to stay with 8x and try raising my fsb from 400 to maybe 450 but when I do that then ram speed starts rising from 800MHz to like 991MHz and I know the ram (rated 800MHz) won't be able to handle that much.

So I'm not sure what to try next.
Click to expand...

I'm running on a different computer now so I can't access the P5E´s BIOS, but surely there are half multipliers available: try 400*8.5 in that case.
 
NichoTL said:
Now you understand why Xigmatek gives you the option of buying the mounting plate thingy...
Click to expand...

Crap, I just bought a Xigmatek HDT-S963 and didn't think to look for a mounting plate. Was rushing to beat 11am cutoff at newegg so I get it for the weekend.

I need to replace my Zalman CNPS7000. Thing is quiet but definitely not an OC cooler.
 
NichoTL said:
Now you understand why Xigmatek gives you the option of buying the mounting plate thingy...
Click to expand...

I do. But for $11 plus $10 shipping plus taxes, it's too pricey for me. I didn't see it in my local store.

I'm running on a different computer now so I can't access the P5E´s BIOS, but surely there are half multipliers available: try 400*8.5 in that case.
Click to expand...

My P5E-VM HDMI doesn't have halves. Yours does?!!
 
i have never used pushpins, only the thermalright or noctua mounting hardware. well worth the extra expense imho. especially with the more common vertical m/b orientation and weight of the bigger hs/f's.

i've even used the thermalright kit with the stock intel oem hs/f for a bit until an ultra-90 came in the mail from a different vendor. just had to find a big azz pair of cutters to get the pins out of the picture. :p

here's the t/r kit:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html

btw, the new noctua 1366 cooler comes with all the normal goodies plus TWO fans. It's $70 and you do need an extra bracket ($7?) for use with the 775. considering the fans retail for $20 ea., it's a future proof deal if one is planning on going 1366 down the road.

here's a link to a great vendor.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/nonhsecpucof.html
__________________________

my two p5e-vm hdmi's have the half multiplier, it's not obvious in the settings, you have to specify it including the dot. :cool:
__________________________
 
Sucked it up and ordered the bracket separately. Hope it comes at the same time as the cooler.
 
dwell said:
Sucked it up and ordered the bracket separately. Hope it comes at the same time as the cooler.
Click to expand...

if you are in the u.s. try sidewinder. gary is the man, and will get it to you in time. he did exactly that for me when i needed something for the weekend. he's even had stuff drop-shipped from thermalright for me, on maybe my second order with the company. (i have no interest in the business other than to be a satisified customer.)
 
NichoTL said:
... Don't worry too much about your temps running Prime95. Of course they are high, but they represent a worst-case scenario and normal usage (even intense 3D gaming) will never come close to these temps...
Click to expand...

that's a good point. but how do you test for stability if you can't really burn the components for a good while. maybe just increase airflow temporarily during stress testing?

i think the cores are safe to 100C, but i don't like to go over 80C. and the closer i can stay to 70C, the better. i notice that according to intel the thermal bounds are lower for the quads, so i would try to stay below 70C with those. if you plan to swap cpu's in a year or two (or less,) i guess it probably doesn't matter, unless you want to go a bit easier on it and/or help out the person who buys your used gear.
 
NichoTL said:
Now you understand why Xigmatek gives you the option of buying the mounting plate thingy...



I'm running on a different computer now so I can't access the P5E´s BIOS, but surely there are half multipliers available: try 400*8.5 in that case.
Click to expand...

bing said:
that's a good point. but how do you test for stability if you can't really burn the components for a good while. maybe just increase airflow temporarily during stress testing?

i think the cores are safe to 100C, but i don't like to go over 80C. and the closer i can stay to 70C, the better. i notice that according to intel the thermal bounds are lower for the quads, so i would try to stay below 70C with those. if you plan to swap cpu's in a year or two (or less,) i guess it probably doesn't matter, unless you want to go a bit easier on it and/or help out the person who buys your used gear.
Click to expand...

No, I don't plan on selling or replacing this cpu any time soon.

Well, I thought my system was stable after stressing it for 15 hours but it just rebooted during it's 16th hour!! Geez, can't even get 3.50GHz stable with this HS without hitting what will probably be 75C or so (I'm hitting 70C now!).

Now I'm pissed!
 
yorkman said:
Well, I thought my system was stable after stressing it for 15 hours but it just rebooted during it's 16th hour!! Geez, can't even get 3.50GHz stable with this HS without hitting what will probably be 75C or so (I'm hitting 70C now!).

Now I'm pissed!
Click to expand...

i'm reminded of this post.

officermartinez said:
Usually, most Q6600's are good on stock volts, up to 3ghz. To hit 3.2ghz, a itty bitty "nudge" in voltage is usually required. Anything past that, the voltage goes up pretty quickly. Some Q6600's simply are not stable at anything past 3.4ghz. Some are good up to 3.6ghz - 3.8ghz. The cherry ones are the ones that are able to attend the 4ghz club. But, obviously, at those speeds, you need extreme measures to cool a HOT processor! Check out some of the phase change and LN2 (liquid nitrogen) setup's on xtremesystems.org. Pretty amazing.
Click to expand...

if you're not having fun with the process of oc'ing back off a notch or two and just enjoy the pc. (my e8400 is back at 3.9GHz. :rolleyes:)
 
bing said:
that's a good point. but how do you test for stability if you can't really burn the components for a good while. maybe just increase airflow temporarily during stress testing?

i think the cores are safe to 100C, but i don't like to go over 80C. and the closer i can stay to 70C, the better. i notice that according to intel the thermal bounds are lower for the quads, so i would try to stay below 70C with those. if you plan to swap cpu's in a year or two (or less,) i guess it probably doesn't matter, unless you want to go a bit easier on it and/or help out the person who buys your used gear.
Click to expand...

What I do is use on my heatsink a 120mm PWM fan (Nexus) with its high speed and the Performance profile in the BIOS. When stress-testing is over, back to a Nexus 3-pin with the Silent profile.
 
NichoTL said:
What I do is use on my heatsink a 120mm PWM fan (Nexus) with its high speed and the Performance profile in the BIOS. When stress-testing is over, back to a Nexus 3-pin with the Silent profile.
Click to expand...

great tip!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top