Artic silver 5

The stuff on the AC7 should be MX-2.

Not that I see any reason to switch from a might-as-well-be-brand-new tube of AS5.
 
All the good brand names are SO CLOSE, it doesn't matter what you use. Even the white shit is FINE.

Caveat: when applied CORRECTLY.

All of this has been proven time and time again. Given correct usage, ALL of the brands are no more than 1c-2c different. Most "reviews" of TIM's are flawed/incorrectly controlled.

I am still using some AS3 I have had for a long time, as well as some AS5 and Ceramique. I also have a couple rigs with the white oem stuff. ALL of them are overclocked and working perfectly, and running with good temps.

It's not the material...it's the user.
 
is there any correct way of applying it, i just kind of slap it on. prolly not the greatest idea :/
 
onedestinazn2 said:
is there any correct way of applying it, i just kind of slap it on. prolly not the greatest idea :/
Click to expand...

I have always used the razor blade/spread very thin/entire surface....so thin that you can almost (but not quite) see through it. It should look almost glass-like when spread correctly and thinly. Then "tint" the heatsink mating surface by applying the leftover from the razor blade edge, and rub it in by using a plastic "wrapper" for your finger (like a piece of garbage bag). Then slightly "buff" that are with a clean lint free towel...that gets the microscopic pits and pores filled in a bit better.

It's easier than you think if you have even a resemblance of hand control...and most gamers do ;)
 
With CPUs that use heatspreaders, the best application method is to put a small blob in the center and let the clamping force of the heatsink spread it out. That way, you can make sure the TIM is making contact between the die area and the heatsink.
 
There is no "best" way. The three popular methods will ALL produce almost identical results, if done properly. :p It's not "rocket science".
 
Injection of <3 said:
Some of the white shit is corrosive to copper.
Click to expand...

This could be true, but none of the oem white paste I have used over the years has ever done any damage to a copper heatsink. It's very rare I would imagine. A savvy user would research it anyways...
 
TheRapture said:
There is no "best" way. The three popular methods will ALL produce almost identical results, if done properly. :p It's not "rocket science".
Click to expand...

Generally there isn't much of a difference, but considering many C2Ds have convex heatspreaders, using the thin layer application method can sometimes result in a lack of contact between the heatsink base and the die area of the heatspreader if the layer is too thin. That's why it's generally safer to use the blob method; you know for sure that proper contact will be made. You're right that it doesn't matter which method is used, so long as it's done properly.
 
Being semi anal about that TIM, I always check my seating pattern before final install....it just wastes a tiny bit of ceramique, and I have been lucky in getting pretty flat cpu's.

But good tip on the concave/convex spreaders, I should have included that in my post....
 
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