Am I pushing it with 750W and RTX 4090

edo101

Limp Gawd
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Jul 16, 2018
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Hi, I have a 24/7 OC 10850K at 5Ghz and I just picked up an Asus TUF 4090 OC. I don't think I plan to overclock the 4090 but I guess maybe in 2 years if it starts struggling at 4K I would? Anyways my rig also has a ton of HDDs and SSDs. I see there is a sale for a 1200W Corsair RM1200e PSU in Newegg for $169. An 850W of the same line is $139, only 30 bucks cheaper.

I was wondering if am I pushing the 750W PSU too hard with my current build? I have heard if PSUs are pushed, they can briick your entire system which means building a whole new computer? Should I close my eyes and buy the 1200W PSU or is there cheaper alternative that will provide good power and future proofing? I also would hate to rewire the system lol.
 
Hi, I have a 24/7 OC 10850K at 5Ghz and I just picked up an Asus TUF 4090 OC. I don't think I plan to overclock the 4090 but I guess maybe in 2 years if it starts struggling at 4K I would? Anyways my rig also has a ton of HDDs and SSDs. I see there is a sale for a 1200W Corsair RM1200e PSU in Newegg for $169. An 850W of the same line is $139, only 30 bucks cheaper.

I was wondering if am I pushing the 750W PSU too hard with my current build? I have heard if PSUs are pushed, they can briick your entire system which means building a whole new computer? Should I close my eyes and buy the 1200W PSU or is there cheaper alternative that will provide good power and future proofing? I also would hate to rewire the system lol.
No, unless it's some cheap PSU it will not brick your entire system. The computer will just shut off because of built-in protections the PSU has.
 
Considering that NVIDIA recommends, at a minimum, an 850W Power Supply (for the Founder's Edition), I would upgrade. For some 4090s, 1000W is recommended. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Well there are recommendations and then there are.. um facts. I suppose I am asking, are they just saying that or is that actually something that I NEED to do
No, unless it's some cheap PSU it will not brick your entire system. The computer will just shut off because of built-in protections the PSU has.
My current PSU is a Corsair RM750. I assume it's not one of those cheap PSUs that will brick my entire system?
 
Well there are recommendations and then there are.. um facts. I suppose I am asking, are they just saying that or is that actually something that I NEED to do

My current PSU is a Corsair RM750. I assume it's not one of those cheap PSUs that will brick my entire system?
No, that's not a cheap PSU at all. If it's not adequate for your PC you will know pretty quickly with the 4090.
 
Note you can power limit most 4090s quite a bit with minimal performance loss. I have my 4090 FE limited to 70% in MSI Afterburner and am entirely satisfied with framerates at the resolution and settings I prefer in the games I play. Cutting 100W off the power consumption with zero performance loss isn't uncommon. See
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60yFji_GKak
 
I would say you could maybe get away with it with a quality 750W PSU if you didn't have much else drawing power, but the fact you say you're powering tons of disks makes it an easy call. Get a new PSU.
 
No, that's not a cheap PSU at all. If it's not adequate for your PC you will know pretty quickly with the 4090.
I would say you could maybe get away with it with a quality 750W PSU if you didn't have much else drawing power, but the fact you say you're powering tons of disks makes it an easy call. Get a new PSU.
For the record I already have the 4090 in my rig. Haven't had it stutter or got weird signs of power issues. I have not played a lot on it with heavy gaming loads yet but little benchmarks here and there and a little Halo Infinite tests seem to be okay. Yes I got lots of disks and SSDs. Y'all still think I need to upgrade even though right now, seemignly everything seems fine?
 
You can, but I wouldn't do it on a Corsair RM750. The RM/RMx series is mid-tier, the OEM supplier being CWT. I ran my 3090 on a Seasonic FOCUS Plus 750W Platinum without issue, and the 3090 used more power than the 4090 does. I just couldn't overclock my 9900K without more power, which is why I got the EVGA unit in my signature, which is a rebranded Super Flower unit. If you are going to get a new PSU anyway then you may as well get one with more capacity.
 
For the record I already have the 4090 in my rig. Haven't had it stutter or got weird signs of power issues. I have not played a lot on it with heavy gaming loads yet but little benchmarks here and there and a little Halo Infinite tests seem to be okay. Yes I got lots of disks and SSDs. Y'all still think I need to upgrade even though right now, seemignly everything seems fine?
i would but its not my system at risk...
 
For the record I already have the 4090 in my rig. Haven't had it stutter or got weird signs of power issues. I have not played a lot on it with heavy gaming loads yet but little benchmarks here and there and a little Halo Infinite tests seem to be okay. Yes I got lots of disks and SSDs. Y'all still think I need to upgrade even though right now, seemignly everything seems fine?
You do you. If something happens, that's on you.
 
also, i dont usually put much stock in them and usually always recommend to go with the min the gpu recommended, but cooler master's psu calc says you should be running 777w minimum....
you really should go to at least a decent 850w.
 
also, i dont usually put much stock in them and usually always recommend to go with the min the gpu recommended, but cooler master's psu calc says you should be running 777w minimum....
you really should go to at least a decent 850w.
I've always found those estimation websites to inflate the wattage needed. I don't really think there's anything cynical at work, probably just has a margin of safety built in.
 
I've always found those estimation websites to inflate the wattage needed. I don't really think there's anything cynical at work, probably just has a margin of safety built in.
imo they are always under, like this example. they recommend 777w, gpu recommend 850w, ill go with the 850w.
 
You can, but I wouldn't do it on a Corsair RM750. The RM/RMx series is mid-tier, the OEM supplier being CWT. I ran my 3090 on a Seasonic FOCUS Plus 750W Platinum without issue, and the 3090 used more power than the 4090 does. I just couldn't overclock my 9900K without more power, which is why I got the EVGA unit in my signature, which is a rebranded Super Flower unit. If you are going to get a new PSU anyway then you may as well get one with more capacity.
You do you. If something happens, that's on you.
If you have the money, that's cheap insurance & peace of mind & an easy part to swap.
also, i dont usually put much stock in them and usually always recommend to go with the min the gpu recommended, but cooler master's psu calc says you should be running 777w minimum....
you really should go to at least a decent 850w.
I've always found those estimation websites to inflate the wattage needed. I don't really think there's anything cynical at work, probably just has a margin of safety built in.
imo they are always under, like this example. they recommend 777w, gpu recommend 850w, ill go with the 850w.
What PSU for that price range would you recommend? I've been out of the PSU market for a LONG TIME and don't know all the bells and whistles and features I should be looking out for
 
What PSU for that price range would you recommend? I've been out of the PSU market for a LONG TIME and don't know all the bells and whistles and features I should be looking out for
Top tier Seasonic (asus thor/strix are SS rebrands, as is top tier phanteks iirc) EVGA T2/P2 (superflower), were some of my favorites. Now though I'd probably go ATX 3.0 and the selection of those are a bit different.
 
If I was buying a PSU now I'd want ATX 3.0, which those three are. They look like solid options. FWIW I built a system for a friend over the summer using the platinum version of the MSI, and I was impressed.
 
The MSI A1000G is CWT. The Thermaltake units are Great Wall, which I would stay far away from.

I'd spend a little more for a better OEM.

The Antec NeoECO series is Seasonic rebrands, and they're a bit cheaper than the ones Seasonic sells themselves.
https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-series-ne1000g-m-atx3-0-1000-w/p/N82E16817371147

Super Flower's Leadex VII XG is Super Flower's own product and a little less expensive than the Antec.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1HU-024C-00056

Both of these are ATX 3.0 compliant. If I were in the market for a sub-$200 1000W PSU, I'd go with the Super Flower unit.
 
It's simple for me. Why risk a $2K GPU with a subpar PSU? If you can afford a 4090 you can afford a 1000W+ watt PSU.
 
I just got an FSP Hydro Ti Pro 1000W. Performance is solid, it's more compact than the usual 1000W PSU and it's quiet. The modular cables are a bit stiff though.

BTW, seems like the newer batches of this ATX3.0 PSU already have the 12V-2x6 socket.
 
I ran my 4090 on an EVGA supernova 750 watt without issue. I upgraded to see if having a native 12VHPWR connector would unlock any higher power targets (it didn’t) my 4090 only pulls about as much power as my 3080 did although I am cpu limited in most games I play with the 4090. I can certainly imagine significantly more power draw with a better gaming CPU.
 
I was in your position, just go for the 1200 and don't look back. A couple twenties isn't worth the fuss long-term because a ps that has an easier life is supposed to last longer and that's a good thing rather than pushing it closer to it's limit. Especially if you upgrade to a cpu that is more power hungry or gpu in teh future etc.
 
You're pushing it, but I don't think I've seen anyone mention that you *should* be fine if you just run it with three leads connected instead of four. The vBios will detect this and cap the power of the 4090 to 450w, and IMO - a good 750w supply will handle this, but given your description of your CPU setup you're absolutely pushing things.
 
The MSI A1000G is CWT. The Thermaltake units are Great Wall, which I would stay far away from.

I'd spend a little more for a better OEM.

The Antec NeoECO series is Seasonic rebrands, and they're a bit cheaper than the ones Seasonic sells themselves.
https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-series-ne1000g-m-atx3-0-1000-w/p/N82E16817371147

Super Flower's Leadex VII XG is Super Flower's own product and a little less expensive than the Antec.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1HU-024C-00056

Both of these are ATX 3.0 compliant. If I were in the market for a sub-$200 1000W PSU, I'd go with the Super Flower unit.
Obviously I am cost sensitive. What is wrong with the Themaltake? And the Corsair RM RM1200e and is the difference in quality big enough to justify going from 1200W down to 1000W?
 
Considering that NVIDIA recommends, at a minimum, an 850W Power Supply (for the Founder's Edition), I would upgrade. For some 4090s, 1000W is recommended. It's better to be safe than sorry.

I just got an FSP Hydro Ti Pro 1000W. Performance is solid, it's more compact than the usual 1000W PSU and it's quiet. The modular cables are a bit stiff though.

BTW, seems like the newer batches of this ATX3.0 PSU already have the 12V-2x6 socket.
The MSI A1000G is CWT. The Thermaltake units are Great Wall, which I would stay far away from.

I'd spend a little more for a better OEM.

The Antec NeoECO series is Seasonic rebrands, and they're a bit cheaper than the ones Seasonic sells themselves.
https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-series-ne1000g-m-atx3-0-1000-w/p/N82E16817371147

Super Flower's Leadex VII XG is Super Flower's own product and a little less expensive than the Antec.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1HU-024C-00056

Both of these are ATX 3.0 compliant. If I were in the market for a sub-$200 1000W PSU, I'd go with the Super Flower unit.
If I was buying a PSU now I'd want ATX 3.0, which those three are. They look like solid options. FWIW I built a system for a friend over the summer using the platinum version of the MSI, and I was impressed.
imo they are always under, like this example. they recommend 777w, gpu recommend 850w, ill go with the 850w.
also, i dont usually put much stock in them and usually always recommend to go with the min the gpu recommended, but cooler master's psu calc says you should be running 777w minimum....
you really should go to at least a decent 850w.
No, unless it's some cheap PSU it will not brick your entire system. The computer will just shut off because of built-in protections the PSU has.
If I lower my Wattage to 1000W to pick up the Antec Neo, is that future proofing enough? I don't want to have to upgrade to 1200W or greater in a couple of years if I need to upgrade to a more powerful GPU in like 4 years.
 
Obviously I am cost sensitive. What is wrong with the Themaltake? And the Corsair RM RM1200e and is the difference in quality big enough to justify going from 1200W down to 1000W?
Great Wall is the OEM on the Thermaltake units, who supplied most of the early ATX 3.0 units to manufacturers before Seasonic was able to hit the market with theirs. Units like the MSI A1000G that used Great Wall as their supplier had a lot of issues at first, but they have supposedly gotten better.

The Corsair uses CWT as their OEM supplier, and I've personally had issues with them in the past. I've also seen quite a few stories online about people having issues with Corsair's RM series, which is why I would avoid it.
If I lower my Wattage to 1000W to pick up the Antec Neo, is that future proofing enough? I don't want to have to upgrade to 1200W or greater in a couple of years if I need to upgrade to a more powerful GPU in like 4 years.
Future proofing is a fool's folly considering how quickly technology moves. That being said, I believe 1000W is going to be plenty for the next 10 years. PCI-E 5.0 is limited to 600W per power connector, and the most power hungry video card on the market currently is using less than 450W while playing games. The PC in my signature is pulling 700-720W from the wall, at worst. At 90% efficiency that leaves another 390-410W I can pull from the wall before hitting my power supply's specified maximum output, meaning I will still have plenty of overhead should a video card get released that maxes out the 12Vx6 connector. Note that if you stick with Intel when you upgrade you'll need to add 100W to your power consumption budget, but you'll still have overhead should you go that route. Your 10850K in your signature only uses about 50W more than my 7800X3D.
 
The MSI A1000G is CWT. The Thermaltake units are Great Wall, which I would stay far away from.

I'd spend a little more for a better OEM.

The Antec NeoECO series is Seasonic rebrands, and they're a bit cheaper than the ones Seasonic sells themselves.
https://www.newegg.com/antec-neoeco-series-ne1000g-m-atx3-0-1000-w/p/N82E16817371147

Super Flower's Leadex VII XG is Super Flower's own product and a little less expensive than the Antec.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1HU-024C-00056

Both of these are ATX 3.0 compliant. If I were in the market for a sub-$200 1000W PSU, I'd go with the Super Flower unit.

I got the Antec. It's a very nice compact size. Thanks for the recommendaton. Let's hope 1000W is enough for the next 6 years
Armenius
 
I got the Antec. It's a very nice compact size. Thanks for the recommendaton. Let's hope 1000W is enough for the next 6 years
Armenius

Late to thread and I see you bought a new PSU. But, you were fine with the 750 Watt PSU you had already. The Corsair RM750 is a good PSU. AMD and Nvidia have to play it very safe with their recommendations. If you were worried about the power consumption, a cheaper option would have been to undervolt/power limit the card and save a 100W in power use with a nearly imperceptible loss in performance.
 
I’m running a 7800x3s and 4090 , I bought a super flower 1200w with the 12pin . As future proof as o could get. A 750 W with your specs is pushing the limit .
 
I knew someone who ran his 4090 on a 650W PSU, a SeaSonic 650W gold and he was regularly gaming with that..
PSU recommendations for GPU's are always based on worst case scenario, as in the cheapest of the cheap PSU's that people love to buy. If you have something well built you can run a card on much less with no issues.
 
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