5v Stand By (5vSB)

Macho

Weaksauce
Joined
Jul 26, 2020
Messages
86
The single purple wire on the 24 pin motherboard connector. Short that wire to black ground and the PSU starts up. Momentary contact such as your computer on switch.
My PSU tester gave steady beeps and the voltage showed LL to 4.4 volts.

I had to test it because my computer kept going off. Instead of sleep mode, it went off. Then it was a computer hard to start without this going off.
The 5vSB I thought a few years ago was supposed to be -5vSB. The tester just has no plus sign like the others such as +12v, +3.3v, or +5v. just 5vSB.
With my VOM I get a voltage reading when on the AC volts reading. What this is may not be well known. There is a small circuit board on almost every
PSU's that stands up off the main PCB. It could be burnt or not, but that voltage that will fluctuate is not what you want. A steady 5vSB and that may
make you want to change your PSU.
Changing out your PSU is the cure! You may have even had HD problems with (not responding) I kept on going with this problem until I had to change
my HD too.
Shorting to ground momentarily starts your PSU & Computer. The power relay must drop out connecting power from the PSU on those contacts.

 
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The single purple wire on the 24 pin motherboard connector. Short that wire to black ground and the PSU starts up. Momentary contact such as your computer on switch.
My PSU tester gave steady beeps and the voltage showed LL to 4.4 volts.

If we're going by standard color codes on the Minifit Jr. ATX connector, that's wrong. To turn a power supply on, you short pin 16 to ground, PS_ON, which is green. Shorting the purple wire to ground is bad, you're shorting the +5v standby rail to ground. If you're saying shorting +5vsb to ground makes the power supply turn on, there's something wrong with it.

I had to test it because my computer kept going off. Instead of sleep mode, it went off. Then it was a computer hard to start without this going off.
The 5vSB I thought a few years ago was supposed to be -5vSB. The tester just has no plus sign like the others such as +12v, +3.3v, or +5v. just 5vSB.
With my VOM I get a voltage reading when on the AC volts reading. What this is may not be well known. There is a small circuit board on almost every
PSU's that stands up off the main PCB. It could be burnt or not, but that voltage that will fluctuate is not what you want. A steady 5vSB and that may
make you want to change your PSU.
Changing out your PSU is the cure! You may have even had HD problems with (not responding) I kept on going with this problem until I had to change
my HD too.
Shorting to ground momentarily starts your PSU & Computer. The power relay must drop out connecting power from the PSU on those contacts.

The +5vsb rail is generally not regulated as well as other rails in the supply, because it's usually a completely separate power circuit using a linear regulator. Many power supplies use an LM7805 for the +5vsb rail, which has a limited current capacity before it starts to drop out. If the rail is overloaded, it can drop below 5v, or have ripple issues.

Without seeing the PSU you have that's misbehaving, I'd suspect it has bad capacitors. It'd explain all of the symptoms you're having.
 
If we're going by standard color codes on the Minifit Jr. ATX connector, that's wrong. To turn a power supply on, you short pin 16 to ground, PS_ON, which is green. Shorting the purple wire to ground is bad, you're shorting the +5v standby rail to ground. If you're saying shorting +5vsb to ground makes the power supply turn on, there's something wrong with it.



The +5vsb rail is generally not regulated as well as other rails in the supply, because it's usually a completely separate power circuit using a linear regulator. Many power supplies use an LM7805 for the +5vsb rail, which has a limited current capacity before it starts to drop out. If the rail is overloaded, it can drop below 5v, or have ripple issues.

Without seeing the PSU you have that's misbehaving, I'd suspect it has bad capacitors. It'd explain all of the symptoms you're having.
Ok, you should be right. Green & Black. The 20 pin connector has different numbered pins to select than the 24 pin connector. The PSU tester turns on the PSU
by shorting the pins you mention. A cap they also supply does that without needing a paper clip which could be put in the wrong pins.

The PSU goes bad when the 5vSB voltage fluctuates and goes on and off. A LED on the motherboard could also be doing that, so anyone who says we do not
know what the purple wire does, was from the past when they used to say that.
The PSU tester will beep when your PSU voltages are a FAIL. It beeps when the 5vSB is less than 4.7.
On this forum, someone already said, "Go ahead and get your spare PSU and swap out." That will be the cure for your computer going off by itself and going off
in sleep mode. The decision to change out your PSU is now for you to do that, or you may damage other components and your motherboard. My Antec did that
but so does a Cooler Master GX 750 Watt PSU. I found a burnt bank of resistors on the Antec but did not find any visible reason on the Cooler Master so far.
I have recently been changing out my HDD when I have the (not responding) software freeze too often. The HDD shows to be perfect all other ways
but a swap out of that HDD does the trick. Stand by, is that what makes the HDD spin down when it's in sleep mode?
 
On this forum, someone already said, "Go ahead and get your spare PSU and swap out." That will be the cure for your computer going off by itself and going off
in sleep mode. The decision to change out your PSU is now for you to do that, or you may damage other components and your motherboard.

There's sleep and there's hibernate. The former won't turn the system off, the latter will dump the contents of RAM to disk and power the computer off.

I found a burnt bank of resistors on the Antec but did not find any visible reason on the Cooler Master so far.

Those were probably biasing resistors, and they didn't burn for no reason. If it was an Antec PSU, it was almost certainly capacitor related because they have a long history of using shitty capacitors. Capacitors don't have to show physical signs of failure to be very, very bad. I've recapped probably over a hundred Antec power supplies over the years, and many more from other brands.

Stand by, is that what makes the HDD spin down when it's in sleep mode?

If you don't want the disk to spin down, go into the power settings in the control panel and change the current power profile to not spin down the disk.
 
There's sleep and there's hibernate. The former won't turn the system off, the latter will dump the contents of RAM to disk and power the computer off.



Those were probably biasing resistors, and they didn't burn for no reason. If it was an Antec PSU, it was almost certainly capacitor related because they have a long history of using shitty capacitors. Capacitors don't have to show physical signs of failure to be very, very bad. I've recapped probably over a hundred Antec power supplies over the years, and many more from other brands.



If you don't want the disk to spin down, go into the power settings in the control panel and change the current power profile to not spin down the disk.
A pinout of the 24 pin connector from the PSU shows. PS On to be pin 16. Old-timers use their idea of using a paper clip to short that to a black ground pin, to turn ON the PSU.
To have the PSU go into sleep, the Windows OS software has to pull down pin 5 the 5vSB to a lower voltage. Just like your computer power button has a LED that blinks in
sleep mode, it could be that the purple wire that goes to LL to 4.5 is near sleep mode when the PSU goes bad and the PSU tester beeps.
More than an Antec having the resistor bank go bad and burn, the PCB material of the circuit board made out of fibreglass and resin is just carbonized and the traces have no circuit board left, due to heat.
For $15.00 you can buy a PSU tester. How else are you testing your PSU's to know why you're having problems? Do you use a VOM? When you install an expensive
motherboard you need to know that you have a known good PSU.
Sometimes we have software that shows us our PSU voltages or the Bios does. Software that shows us all our voltages such as 5vSB. A blinking LED on some
motherboards I see in other peoples text concerning the fluctuation of the 5vSB to LL or Zero volts.
Office Machines have Preventive Maintenance contracts since they are liable for expensive equipment. What would anyone do for a P.M. My UVK, Ultra Virus Killer program always turns off, hibernate.

How to Disable Hibernation on a Windows 10 PC
  1. Click the magnifying glass icon in the bottom-left corner of your screen. ...
  2. Then type Command Prompt into the search bar.
  3. Next, click Run as administrator.
  4. Then type powercfg.exe /hibernate off into the Command Prompt.
  5. Finally, hit Enter on your keyboard.
Professionally, that problem with the 5vSB going bad and destroying a computer and scaping the whole PSU, would have a retrofit and improvement in the future.
Attempt to improve foreign equipment and they do not like us for it. If they won't come up with something when all our vintage PSU's go bad with this problem in 7 years, what can we do? I still did not throw out my old Antec even though it has been causing problems when the PSU tester beeps. No way to have Antec just send me that small PCB that burnt.

Professionally, they should not outdate a model but still have parts that need to be soldered in if need be. The updated part should not burn out for Antec to still have a good reputation, that has a USA Branch office and authorized resellers.

There used to be 3M who took Toshiba equipment and made it more acceptable with improvements. IBM took Japanese equipment and sold it will higher prices and professionally done with available service and parts. Do not need to over glamorize any of this equipment that was not made. H.P. will professionally sell and service and represent foreign goods. Most professional Companies want perfection or they will complain. Today, no one to complain to except Staples, Best Buys, Office Depot and they send out
GEEKS.
 

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A pinout of the 24 pin connector from the PSU shows. PS On to be pin 16. Old-timers use their idea of using a paper clip to short that to a black ground pin, to turn ON the PSU.
To have the PSU go into sleep, the Windows OS software has to pull down pin 5 the 5vSB to a lower voltage. Just like your computer power button has a LED that blinks in
sleep mode, it could be that the purple wire that goes to LL to 4.5 is near sleep mode when the PSU goes bad and the PSU tester beeps.
More than an Antec having the resistor bank go bad and burn, the PCB material of the circuit board made out of fibreglass and resin is just carbonized and the traces have no circuit board left, due to heat.
For $15.00 you can buy a PSU tester. How else are you testing your PSU's to know why you're having problems? Do you use a VOM? When you install an expensive
motherboard you need to know that you have a known good PSU.
Sometimes we have software that shows us our PSU voltages or the Bios does. Software that shows us all our voltages such as 5vSB. A blinking LED on some
motherboards I see in other peoples text concerning the fluctuation of the 5vSB to LL or Zero volts.
Office Machines have Preventive Maintenance contracts since they are liable for expensive equipment. What would anyone do for a P.M. My UVK, Ultra Virus Killer program always turns off, hibernate.

How to Disable Hibernation on a Windows 10 PC
  1. Click the magnifying glass icon in the bottom-left corner of your screen. ...
  2. Then type Command Prompt into the search bar.
  3. Next, click Run as administrator.
  4. Then type powercfg.exe /hibernate off into the Command Prompt.
  5. Finally, hit Enter on your keyboard.
Professionally, that problem with the 5vSB going bad and destroying a computer and scaping the whole PSU, would have a retrofit and improvement in the future.
Attempt to improve foreign equipment and they do not like us for it. If they won't come up with something when all our vintage PSU's go bad with this problem in 7 years, what can we do? I still did not throw out my old Antec even though it has been causing problems when the PSU tester beeps. No way to have Antec just send me that small PCB that burnt.

Professionally, they should not outdate a model but still have parts that need to be soldered in if need be. The updated part should not burn out for Antec to still have a good reputation, that has a USA Branch office and authorized resellers.

There used to be 3M who took Toshiba equipment and made it more acceptable with improvements. IBM took Japanese equipment and sold it will higher prices and professionally done with available service and parts. Do not need to over glamorize any of this equipment that was not made. H.P. will professionally sell and service and represent foreign goods. Most professional Companies want perfection or they will complain. Today, no one to complain to except Staples, Best Buys, Office Depot and they send out
GEEKS.
The Geek Squad would have a product line at their store that they themselves could report back to the Service Manager of Antec or Cooler Master, that all their
product line of that model needs to be closed out with a burnt resistor or circuit board, due to the Computer & Power Supplies Stand-By-Mode. The Power Button is
blinking all night long, and the PSU has components that fail in 7 years or sooner. They have the choice of dropping a product line or never carrying a brand that
will never discover their failures.
How good they are with a product line that does not have any problems, and especially the manufacturers should not want to fire the service technician or bench tech. that discovers this problem. Where is the Geek squad now? After they fix the problem, they can sell it as refurbished. Only Mr. GIGaBiTe has the correct
character & knowledge to open up a PSU and break the warrant seal.
 
The single purple wire on the 24 pin motherboard connector. Short that wire to black ground and the PSU starts up. Momentary contact such as your computer on switch.
My PSU tester gave steady beeps and the voltage showed LL to 4.4 volts.

I had to test it because my computer kept going off. Instead of sleep mode, it went off. Then it was a computer hard to start without this going off.
The 5vSB I thought a few years ago was supposed to be -5vSB. The tester just has no plus sign like the others such as +12v, +3.3v, or +5v. just 5vSB.
With my VOM I get a voltage reading when on the AC volts reading. What this is may not be well known. There is a small circuit board on almost every
PSU's that stands up off the main PCB. It could be burnt or not, but that voltage that will fluctuate is not what you want. A steady 5vSB and that may
make you want to change your PSU.
Changing out your PSU is the cure! You may have even had HD problems with (not responding) I kept on going with this problem until I had to change
my HD too.
Shorting to ground momentarily starts your PSU & Computer. The power relay must drop out connecting power from the PSU on those contacts.


The lower bottom of the PSU schematic is 5vSB. The grey wire (pin 8) power good, or the PSU drops out. An Orcad technician can route a PSU and make it usually
in a few hours. Usually, to make it, it goes to China. Should be several hundred dollars apiece for a make.

What is the function of +5 SB pin ATX power supply? Voltage Drop to an Electrician is the formula concerning high amperage draw, conductor
size & the resistance caused when high amperage draws current. They therefore use larger conductors when the length of the wires becomes excessive.
When a circuit is being pulled down the function of Stand By, is to bias with a little more voltage as if an electrolytic capacitor for EMF storage was available.
Burning out this circuit could be when a for some reason there was excessive load on a 3.3 V supply.

The ATX connector provides multiple wires and power connections for the 3.3 V supply because it is most sensitive to voltage drop in the supply connections. Another ATX addition was the +5 V SB (standby) rail for providing a small amount of standby power, even when the computer was nominally "off".
 

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