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I did some tests with interlaced resolutions:
-AMD 7950 with Delock 62967, it works with CRU and AMD custom resolution panel with both Windows 10 and 7
Report: 1920x1440i @ 90 Hz is working on my Windows 10 machine with the HD 7770 through the Startech MDP2VGA.
I've played a lot of games on my LaCie near it's max frequency for many years now. Resolutions like 1920x1440@90hz, 2880x2160@60hz, and 1024x768@160hz. But that's not 24/7 by any means, I usually keep the desktop at the recommended 1600x1200 @ 85hz.How hard is it on a CRT to run it at a high horizontal refresh rate?
I've heard that running them at high horizontal scan rates significantly decreases their life, but by about how much and/or why?
Alright, that's decently reassuring. I'll probably not bother pushing mine to 98kHz. But, boy, for the specs from one of the settings I wanna use, the jump from 97 to 98kHz is so tempting on paper- even if the visual difference is highly negligible in practiceI've played a lot of games on my LaCie near it's max frequency for many years now. Resolutions like 1920x1440@90hz, 2880x2160@60hz, and 1024x768@160hz. But that's not 24/7 by any means, I usually keep the desktop at the recommended 1600x1200 @ 85hz.
I tried with 1920x1200i 160 Hz GTF using the AMD utility, the resolution is accepted and applied.So did both of you guys go into "advanced display settings" and check "active signal resolution" just make sure it's not being scaled to some other, progressive resolution?
Correct. I should clarify this is on a generic 17" monitor, not an FW900.So did both of you guys go into "advanced display settings" and check "active signal resolution" just make sure it's not being scaled to some other, progressive resolution?
i tested dpu3000 with nvidia gtx 1080 ti with no luck, was not able to use anything interlaced created from nvidia control panel, with any timing standard, it just showed a message telling "selected mode is not supported" without even let me test if it would actually work, also creating anything interlaced from custom resolution utility was ignored, and not displayed in any resolution/refresh list from windows or nvidia control panel, i tested on windows 10 64bit 1909 version with 456.55 driver version, also tested in windows 7 64bit and older driver version 378.78 (first 1080 ti launch driver) to see if with older os and older driver would help but same results as in windows 10.Has anyone ever tested interlaced resolutions with the DPU3000?
Someone in this thread tested the Sunix in LInux and got interlaced resolutions working. Can't remember what card they were using, this was a few years back. Having trouble finding the post through Google.Has anyone ever tested interlaced resolutions with the DPU3000?
So if I understand this correctly, some DP converters might be able to display interlaced correctly if it was enabled."AllowDpInterlaced":
When driving interlaced modes over DisplayPort protocol, NVIDIA GPUs do not provide all the spec-mandated metadata. Some DisplayPort monitors are tolerant of this missing metadata. But, in the interest of DisplayPort specification compliance, the NVIDIA driver prohibits interlaced modes over DisplayPort protocol by default. Use this mode validation token to allow interlaced modes over DisplayPort protocol anyway.
So i have three FW-900s, all of which are currently having issues.
#1 displays no image and does not degauss when turned on. Checking with Windas, it gives ABL errors, which, as i understand it, generally means a bad flyback in this context.
#2 displays solid colors with retrace lines when turned on (generally green, sometimes orange, occasionally violet). On rare occasion, it will just turn on normally and stay that way until shut off, at which point it goes back to the solid colors. Windas gives ABL and HV OVP errors. This issue seems rarer than #1's, but reading around, i suspect that the power supply may be the issue?
#3 turns on without issue 100% of the time if started cold, but often loses focus within 1-40 min, at which point it must be left off for 30-40 min before trying again. If it doesn't lose focus after and hour or so, it is usually fine for the rest of the day. Humidity and environmental temperature *might* be a factor, but that may also be pattern seeking on my part, since the problem first started as the season changed. Windas gives no errors.
My instinct is that i should check #3 for bad caps, and see what #1 does with #2's flyback, but it seemed prudent to ask for advice here first.
Yes, if the DP receiver has no problems with that missing metadata.So if I understand this correctly, some DP converters might be able to display interlaced correctly if it was enabled.
I can understand the displayport, but removing something that is working properly is a very bad thing.But really, we have bigger problems with interlacing support. It used to be supported over HDMI on both Nvidia and AMD cards. But I haven't been able to get even 1080i working on my Radeon 5700xt, and I've seen a thread on Nvidia forums saying their 2000 series RTX cards weren't outputting 1080i.
So if you load a game that resolution is not selectable?And then theres the issue where it's (almost?) impossible to directly switch to interlaced resolutions on Nvidia cards that do support interlaced. Like I have a GT 730 in a secondary slot in my PC, and over VGA, the only way I can get interlaced resolutions to actually display is to switch to it from the Nvidia custom resolution tool in the control panel. Like if I pick the interlaced resolution inside windows, it will just stay in the last progressive resolution I was running.
They should at least fix it with the HDMI output.So right now, we're on track to lose interlaced entirely as the older cards enter legacy status. Like, it might still be an option in the custom resolution tools, but you would always get "not supported by display" whenever you try to use it.
I've never used them before, but some users are interested so i do some tests to get as much information as possible.Does anyone really like interlaced resolutions?
They always look flickery and motion is not as good, everything get's artifacts
I've usually been able to get it to work by having my desktop at the interlaced resolution before launching the game. In the game's config file you can set the resolution before hand.So if you load a game that resolution is not selectable?
I've submitted bug reports to both in the past, but I probably don't do it often enough.They should at least fix it with the HDMI output.
What happen with your card, CRU ignored and unsupported by AMD panel?
Or resolution selectable but not working?
So i have three FW-900s, all of which are currently having issues.
#1 displays no image and does not degauss when turned on. Checking with Windas, it gives ABL errors, which, as i understand it, generally means a bad flyback in this context.
#2 displays solid colors with retrace lines when turned on (generally green, sometimes orange, occasionally violet). On rare occasion, it will just turn on normally and stay that way until shut off, at which point it goes back to the solid colors. Windas gives ABL and HV OVP errors. This issue seems rarer than #1's, but reading around, i suspect that the power supply may be the issue?
#3 turns on without issue 100% of the time if started cold, but often loses focus within 1-40 min, at which point it must be left off for 30-40 min before trying again. If it doesn't lose focus after and hour or so, it is usually fine for the rest of the day. Humidity and environmental temperature *might* be a factor, but that may also be pattern seeking on my part, since the problem first started as the season changed. Windas gives no errors.
My instinct is that i should check #3 for bad caps, and see what #1 does with #2's flyback, but it seemed prudent to ask for advice here first.
Unfortunately, nothing I can see in modern display technology beats the glass... Nothing as of yet...I've kinda stopped gaming so the 4:3 aspect ratio and blurriness of my CRT are becoming a bit of a pain for general use/browsing,
I already have an XL2411 from before the CRT and this just looks atrocious in comparison with washed out colours and horrible contrast even after calibration , even TN's superior response times don't come remotely close to the CRT... Iwould rather stick with CRT than use this.
Would an IPS or VA be worth getting or will everything just look horrible in comparison now, aside from the sharpness?
Unfortunately, nothing I can see in modern display technology beats the glass... Nothing as of yet...
Maybe try looking for a sharper CRTI've kinda stopped gaming so the 4:3 aspect ratio and blurriness of my CRT are becoming a bit of a pain for general use/browsing,
I already have an XL2411 from before the CRT and this just looks atrocious in comparison with washed out colours and horrible contrast even after calibration , even TN's superior response times don't come remotely close to the CRT... Iwould rather stick with CRT than use this.
Would an IPS or VA be worth getting or will everything just look horrible in comparison now, aside from the sharpness?
Like I always said it... and keep on saying it... "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder..."It's getting close... is what they always say. I think at this point modern technologies are close enough and better in some cases that people can now have choice, which is good. Heck, even four years ago there wasn't much of any choice outside of Plasma but then you still had issues inherent to plasma to deal with so it obviously wasn't better.
But most people are not very smart because all you really have to do is mount a 48" TV to your wall and move your desk back a foot to get a comfortable viewing angle.These are the only normal-desk ready OLEDs I'm aware of. Everything else is 40"+, which is just way too big for most people.
Most people don't have space for that, from what I've seen. While you're probably right that most don't think of it, I think part of why it doesn't even come to mind is that their desk isn't in a full, dedicated space. Even in big houses, I often see computer desks in cramped spaces.But most people are not very smart because all you really have to do is mount a 48" TV to your wall and move your desk back a foot to get a comfortable viewing angle.
thanks which os do i use to use the color meter abd windas?In short:
The resistor mod is garbage.
The G2 value manual modification is ALSO garbage.
What you need to do is to perform a white point balance procedure in Windas, using a colorimeter. The pinout of the RS232 plug on the monitor is shown in the service manual (it must be written on the board as well). Rxd and Txd must be reverted compared to the computer side of the cable.
Windas download: see my previous post https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...ived-comments.952788/page-438#post-1044677484
Speaking briefly, the top half of my CRT monitor's screen will randomly go black if the horizontal refresh rate is too high. In my case, .5kHz or more above its written limit causes it. Its written limit is 97kHz, so if I have it at 97.5kHz or higher, the artifact will occur. The higher the horizontal refresh rate is over the written limit, the more often it happens (won't test further, as I accidentally discovered the artifacts before I learned high horizontal refreshes can damage the yolks).Does anyone ever have their crt monitor randomly dim out when you're playing a game? I dont know if it's the adapter disconnecting or crt monitor just randomly degaussing itself but I'd like to know
Interesting, well I have a G225F and I haven't been trying to take my CRT to its limits. It happened when I was playing at 1200x900 90hz; this has been the first time in a while it's done this. But I do get worried about it.Speaking briefly, the top half of my CRT monitor's screen will randomly go black if the horizontal refresh rate is too high. In my case, .5kHz or more above its written limit causes it. Its written limit is 97kHz, so if I have it at 97.5kHz or higher, the artifact will occur. The higher the horizontal refresh rate is over the written limit, the more often it happens (won't test further, as I accidentally discovered the artifacts before I learned high horizontal refreshes can damage the yolks).
Not sure if you're running at high horizontal refreshes, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
1200x900 90Hz is definitely not pushing that beast! I'd want to be careful with it too. To me, it's the most attractive CRT on paper. 21 inch screen, .2mm dot pitch flat shadowmask, and 130 kHz horizontal rr all add up to quite the package.Interesting, well I have a G225F and I haven't been trying to take my CRT to its limits. It happened when I was playing at 1200x900 90hz; this has been the first time in a while it's done this. But I do get worried about it.
Awesome!!!Welp, she's here.
I got my IIyama Vision Master Pro 454 yesterday, the box was beat to shit, but luckily the only flaw is a small crack on the top front of the case.
I've had some issues with certain resolutions, and at higher resolutions it feels a bit.. blurry? not sure, will see what I can do to adjust it.
On another note, the 454 is has unlocked vertical refresh rate. Haven't tested below 240p, but like the Nokia445Pro, at 240p it can hit some... quite high numbers. Unfortunately it seems like these refresh rates simply do not load on blurbuster's site properly, so can't get any in action shots or the stability. cool regardless. seems the 514 is also uncapped, and it has even higher horizontal scan so you should be able to hit higher refresh rates per res.
View attachment 292093
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!!In short:
The resistor mod is garbage.
The G2 value manual modification is ALSO garbage.
What you need to do is to perform a white point balance procedure in Windas, using a colorimeter. The pinout of the RS232 plug on the monitor is shown in the service manual (it must be written on the board as well). Rxd and Txd must be reverted compared to the computer side of the cable.
Windas download: see my previous post https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...ived-comments.952788/page-438#post-1044677484
See my windas guide: https://hardforum.com/threads/windas-white-point-balance-guide-for-sony-trinitron-crts.1830788/thanks which os do i use to use the color meter abd windas?
and what software or guide do i use to make changes using the color meter?
it does not seem my colors are off now though