24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

You can fix this easily with Dynamic Convergence in WinDas. You find it in WinDas under Adjustment and then click on DCNV. You can set convergence in every corner on the fly.

If you run it you should set the Hz to 85 and resolution to 1920x1200. And dont forget to save your original settings to file first.

After you set up your convergence correctly you have to save the settings and load the new saved file to monitor. If you are not loading it to your monitor he will forget all settings youve done before after turn off.
 
Thank you for the suggestion Myramond. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure that convergence is not the issue. I should of course have mentioned that I have already done a thorough dynamic convergence correction with magnifying glass and everything :)

If I have the center of the screen in focus, the vertical blur at the top and bottom is there no matter if the convergence is set correctly or not in these areas in WinDAS (when setting convergence way off, the blur is visible even on the individual colors).

I fear that this is a hardware problem that needs fixing. But it could become an expensive affair getting hold of spare parts and replacing them one by one, hehe. Is it reasonable to blame the flyback, since this is where the focus pots are located?
 
Hmm thats odd....

So no matter how you set up the convergence in blurred corners he will not get sharp?

No idea why it comes to that, it sounds like a hardware problem. But I am not able to tell you which board or so, sorry.
 
Yep, the blur is not dependent on how I set the convergence. But I still have hope that it could be fixed somehow, since the screen itself is obviously not damaged when it is possible to get the top and bottom in focus, but as described only at the expense of having the center be blurred.
 
My FW900 works again! I figured out what the problem was: this defective POS (not that exact one but almost the same). I was moving some things around in the room and when I plugged my speakers into this power strip they started freaking out, making really loud drilling noises... that's when I suspected it was doing some really nasty ****. It looks like it is cycling power on/off several times per second... the monitor was plugged into it for a few months and it probably wrecked the power supply until it no longer would turn on at all. I paid $100 something for the repairs and when I brought it home - still same thing!

Now that I connected the monitor to another power strip with no switches it's been working for 3 days now, powers on like it's brand new... no screeching noises, nothing.

Don't buy cheap sh** and give your devices clean power, it really matters ;)

Long live the FW900! :)
 
I actually got rid of my blurriness problem (sort of). If I turned the pots so that the top and bottom were in focus, and I lowered the brightness to an unacceptably low level, the center of the screen was almost perfect as well.

Then I thought, how about removing the anti glare cover, since many others have reported getting a much clearer and brighter picture this way. So I removed it, which actually resulted in very sharp picture across the screen with an acceptable brightness!

Of course, now I need to sit in a perfectly dark room to avoid reflections from the screen and to get perfect black levels, which is a drawback. As soon as I turn on the lights, blacks are more like a dark grey. So I am thinking of ordering a new anti glare cover which is not as dark as the original one (it really darkens the image a lot!).

Would the diffusion of light by a 95% transmissive anti glare cover help with black levels at all, or would it only remove the direct reflections?
 
You would need a grey or dark grey neutral density filter of some sort, something that actually darkens the tube, as "blacks" can only be as black as the empty glass itself. An anti-reflective sheet alone (clear plastic) won't help much. Something like this, but good luck getting it from them - I tried contacting that company ages ago and never got a reply. If you do find something somewhere, let us know.
 
Man up.. Get a hood instead.

diy-hood.jpg
 
So I am loving Halo CE Anniversary to death on the FW900! I switched the xbox 360 to my Samsung S27A750 to get a side by side comparison and it was no contest. The FW900 just crushes the a750!

I am running the xbox 360 to the fw900 with just the stock microsoft vga cable, which is only capable of giving 60hz refresh rates which does suck, however, even locked at 60hz refresh the fw900 is still miles ahead of the a750 for Halo.

I have heard people talking about this HDfury being capable of framerate convert to 120hz, so I asked a question on HDFurys forum and this is what they said:

http://dme.ghost2.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25551

The hdfury 4 will allow you to display 1280x720p@120hz as long as you input 720p@60hz and set the dip switch to high framerate enable and then you can cycle to framerate convert to 120hz.

Please ensure your monitor can support 1280x720p@120hz before ordering by testing on a pc then you will know it will work for you.


While I'm pretty sure the FW900 can do 720p 120hz, I dont think its one of the monitors standard presets....their answer was not exactly confidence inspiring...plus they want $399 for the kit! Does anybody have any experience with the HDFury and the FW900? I would be in seventh heaven if I could get my BIGGEM HALO @120hz!
 
88bastard I'm right with ya. I am thinking about doing the same thing with my ps3. I can't afford to do so if it isn't going to do what I want. I haven't gotten my Fw900 yet but I am trying to get things all setup for when it gets here in a couple weeks. Also, does anybody know if the HD Fury 4 would cause any input lag?
 
I eventually got myself an anti glare screen from NuShield. They are selling DayVue screen protectors for Sony Trinitron 27" and 32" CRT TV's. So I bought one of those and just cut it to fit the FW900. It does not darken the image, so the black levels are only near-perfect, but it is very effective at removing reflections.

And in any case, I think I would have been back at the original problem if the image got darker, since that would mean turning up the brightness, thus giving me a blurry image. So I think I now have the best compromise for my monitor!
 
I just saw my old Sony G500 Crt for sale for $330 currently.

The FW900 is $375? It would be sweet to sell the G500 and upgrade. Is it at all likely I could get even $200 for my G500? It works perfectly now that I figured out the brightness issue.
 
Is the web site Accurateit.com sales of FW900 legit? They have refurbed FW900's for $375 and I've rarely seen them on sale in recent times.
 
88bastard I'm right with ya. I am thinking about doing the same thing with my ps3. I can't afford to do so if it isn't going to do what I want. I haven't gotten my Fw900 yet but I am trying to get things all setup for when it gets here in a couple weeks. Also, does anybody know if the HD Fury 4 would cause any input lag?

From the HD Fury website :

Is there any latency (delay) introduced to the signal?
Less than one frame of latency per second is added to the signal which is not at all noticeable in games.

So no.
 
I eventually got myself an anti glare screen from NuShield. They are selling DayVue screen protectors for Sony Trinitron 27" and 32" CRT TV's. So I bought one of those and just cut it to fit the FW900. It does not darken the image, so the black levels are only near-perfect, but it is very effective at removing reflections.

And in any case, I think I would have been back at the original problem if the image got darker, since that would mean turning up the brightness, thus giving me a blurry image. So I think I now have the best compromise for my monitor!

Any chance of some pictures?
 
Any chance of some pictures?

Here are two pictures, one with and without flash. You can still faintly see my silhouette on the screen on the picture without flash, but it is orders of magnitude better than the screen without the anti glare cover on!

2uy3nrq.jpg

24gvdc1.jpg
 
Here are two pictures, one with and without flash. You can still faintly see my silhouette on the screen on the picture without flash, but it is orders of magnitude better than the screen without the anti glare cover on!

Does the screen also work against static or is it just glare. Because the static cling is killer on mine.
 
Does the screen also work against static or is it just glare. Because the static cling is killer on mine.

It does work against static as well. I'd say it is about as effective against static as the original coating.

One comment though: Be very careful to remove ALL dust particles from the glass before applying a new anti glare screen. Even the tiniest speck of dust will leave an air bubble. I overlooked a couple in the corners myself, so I had to lift it partially to remove them.
 
Nice pics, so the new antiglare has the advantages of the original one without the drawbacks.

But to something other, my lovley fw900 has an problem. Every time i when i first start him the first time of the day then the hole picture starts getting extreme blurry after 10/20 min. I turn it off and wait 1 min and turn it back on, and he has no problems or buzzes or clicks or other things. Hes working perfect the rest of the day. But when i turn it off and then turn it on the next day hes doing it again.

Why?
 
Nice pics, so the new antiglare has the advantages of the original one without the drawbacks.

Well, if the tube wasn't worn, the original anti glare screen would be better since black levels are perfect with that one. But for extending the life of the tube and getting more light output without getting blurry (at the slight expense of black level), this solution works quite well I would say :)
 
I have a local on Craigslist trying to sell a FW900 with coating removed for $300 or trade with a intel 2600k or 2700k, it's a killer that i can't take him up on that offer right now :(
 
I have a local on Craigslist trying to sell a FW900 with coating removed for $300 or trade with a intel 2600k or 2700k, it's a killer that i can't take him up on that offer right now :(

Offer him what you can afford. I doubt he is getting very many bites on that ad. Most people won't consider any CRT at this point in time. They are abandoned technology and getting old. Parts and repair shops are getting hard to find as well. It could come down to taking your offer, or paying some recycle outfit to take it off his hands.
 
Ya make an offer, most likely he is trying to offload it locally to save him the hassle of shipping. But also make sure you check it out.
 
My Fw900 had looked like it got punched in the face, so I had a local artitst hook me up :cool:

IraquiFW900.jpg

Fw900bezel.jpg

fw900bezel2.jpg
 
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Awhile back in this thread someone posted pics of the focus pods that can be easily reached with a small screw driver without removing the plastic casing. Those pics are gone now. Anyone have any idea where these pics went or have an idea of where they are located?
 
Awhile back in this thread someone posted pics of the focus pods that can be easily reached with a small screw driver without removing the plastic casing. Those pics are gone now. Anyone have any idea where these pics went or have an idea of where they are located?


If you shine a light on the top left part of the monitor (when viewed from above) you should be able to see two screws on the flyback that are used for focus adjustment.
 
My fw900 is now shaking or "vibrating" at the normal 19x12 85hz frequency. Is there a fix and if not where can I buy another fw900? My FW900 doesn't think too highly of the barbarian hordes of LCD's that have invaded the scene and would rather be accompanied by another of his superior race.
 
My fw900 is now shaking or "vibrating" at the normal 19x12 85hz frequency. Is there a fix and if not where can I buy another fw900? My FW900 doesn't think too highly of the barbarian hordes of LCD's that have invaded the scene and would rather be accompanied by another of his superior race.

Could be caps...but I'm not qualified. Try asking user "LAGRUNAUER", he might be able to help you out.
 
Primarily it is because all LCDs blur considerably on motion, some very badly. Some would say they all blur badly by comparison to a professional crt at 80 - 100hz. CRT has essentially has no blur on fast motion, which includes just about every time you move your FoV in a game. They also have no native resolution, which unlike an LCD, allows you to change games to resolutions other than native without making the display look like crap. This has some benefits regarding older games, and also allows people to run lower resolutions with a perfecly clean look in order to get more fps out of frames-per-second/hardware limited games. They also have no input lag. Some people like to adapt them to console usage as well, to enjoy the lack of input lag and blurring that consoles used on TV's have.
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A 120hz 2ms response time + high/very high response time compenstation (RTC) TN LCD reduces blur, and the artifacts caused by reducing blur, appreciably compared to a 2ms 60hz TN, and especially compared to a 10ms+ ips panel. However they still blur and have uniformity issues / TN shift, and usually inferior black levels (partly due to shift).
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The post I made on this link goes into it more, with graphic respresentations, actual photos, and a response time blur test app linked.

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038753293&postcount=25
 
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Why are people still getting this monitor? Just curious.

Because black level detail sucks on LCDs (even IPS/PVA). Short version for me. I've never found LCD blacks and black level detail sufficient.

To get better than mediocre black levels and viewing angles you have to basically go IPS - and there you sacrifice response time.
You have to run at 60hz - so you have to enable Vsync (with all of its issues) to avoid screen tearing.
Add in the color accuracy/reproduction inferiority (not nearly as good as a CRT or a plasma), motion blur, etc.
I like classic games too - CRT is much better for non-native resolution games.

Basically all you gain by going to LCD is perfect geometry/convergence (sharpness) and nice lightweight package - but you lose black level detail, color accuracy, higher refresh rates, non-native resolutions, and add motion blur...and for fast response (TN panels) you lose decent viewing angles. And with some calibration you can get a CRT with pretty good convergence/geometry.

If they made a 32" - 37" 1080p plasma I'd be using one of those instead...but they don't. I'm not THAT picky - small plasma tech would be perfect for me.
 
Actually PVA LCDs have excellent shadow detail & black levels (I'm typing this on one now) the biggest problem with PVA is the slower response time which causes more motion blur than IPS & TN based monitors, so they aren't the best choice for gaming but perform great with movies / web browsing / photos etc.

A typical TN & IPS monitor measures around 800 - 1000:1 contrast ratio while PVAs range from 2800 - 3300:1

Although I dont own a CRT anymore I still think they had the best overall balance and I still miss the smoothness of gaming on the FW900.

Plasma is at a very close 2nd and even exceeds CRT in a few key areas.
 
Actually PVA LCDs have excellent shadow detail & black levels (I'm typing this on one now) the biggest problem with PVA is the slower response time which causes more motion blur than IPS & TN based monitors, so they aren't the best choice for gaming but perform great with movies / web browsing / photos etc.

A typical TN & IPS monitor measures around 800 - 1000:1 contrast ratio while PVAs range from 2800 - 3300:1

Although I dont own a CRT anymore I still think they had the best overall balance and I still miss the smoothness of gaming on the FW900.

Plasma is at a very close 2nd and even exceeds CRT in a few key areas.

For gaming a CRT like the FW900 is just great. If you want a no lag experience with high refresh rates and no blurring than it can't be beat.

That's why despite my recent buy of a Korean 1440p monitor I'm going to buy a FW900 for console gaming with an HD Fury 4 at 120hz.
 
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