24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

I just bought a FW900 and hooked it up. I tried both VGA and BNC cables but I see flickering on the monitor. Is my refresh rate not high enough? Currently 1920 X 1200 @ 85 hz.

1920 * 1200 @ 85hz is a optimal resolution, what GPU are you using also what driver and OS?
 
I'm using Windows 7. 9800 gtx with driver version 196.21
Should I not be getting a flicker? I remember my old crt flickered a bit, but I don't think it was this much.
 
It's probably actually 60 Hz then. With 85 Hz, the flicker should be extremely hard to spot.

Check what the monitor says (i.e. does it have a way of showing the current vertical refresh rate).
 
it says 107.2khz/ 85hz
By flicker, I mean the image is kinda shaky. Are these different concepts?

EDIT: Wow, I found out it was electromagnetic interference from my receiver... what should I do?
 
it says 107.2khz/ 85hz
By flicker, I mean the image is kinda shaky. Are these different concepts?

EDIT: Wow, I found out it was electromagnetic interference from my receiver... what should I do?

well two option

move your monitor or move your receiver.

and remember the FW900 need about 15-30mins warm up time
 
well two option

move your monitor or move your receiver.

and remember the FW900 need about 15-30mins warm up time

Yeah. Big bad electronics don't get along electromagnetically. You could also try shielding one from another with... something?

And if you go by the "book" its 120 minutes for full warmup before making any adjustments.
 
The troubles that I have had over the past few years with my C220p, is that all resolution and refresh rates work great in XP. However Vista and 7 have more stringent EDID acceptance, and if there is no EDID, than it will usually default to 800x600 @ 60hz. Has anyone tried to install monitor drivers via INF while using the 5XXX series?

I pulled pins out of my DVI cable to have my monitor report as a non-PnP. Than I FORCED an installation of the drivers of my choice through device manager. The quirk with it is that you cannot let windows pick a driver, even if you select the folder. YOU need to MANUALLY select the correct driver specifically and when it gives you the Unsigned driver warning, ignore it by clicking as much.

This allowed me to set my resolution and refresh rate manually.

I don't know if anything here will help or not, but is my method of getting proper resolutions with no EIDID information.

Which pins did you remove from the DVI cable?

Also disabling EDID for the ATI 5K drivers does not allow a change of refresh rates.
 
Dada said:
Hi everybody :D
I'm a recent proud owner of an FW900. It's an amazing monitor, and I really like the CRT technology.

Until a while ago I used to hook it on to an older Apple Powerbook with VGA output, which worked fine. Now I'm using a slightly newer PowerBook with DVI output... and I've noticed there's quite a bit of image quality difference. I've tried three different solutions, and none of them seem to provide a crystal clear image.

I'm sorry if this has been asked before but the topic is quite long so I figure I'll ask again, what is the best way to hook up an FW900 when there's only DVI available? Would this work? http://www.computercablestore.com/2_Meter_DVI_A_to_5_BNC_Ca_PID1339.aspx

Thanks for any help, very happy to have found such an active topic on this monitor :)


EDIT: ps, I'm going to try and see if I can adjust the focus knobs from the outside. I'm quite unskilled so opening it up is out of the question for me. is the inner aluminum layer, the one directly underneath the plastic, safe to touch with a screwdriver or is that a surefire way to put your organs on a skillet? you know... just in case. (sorry for being such a noob!)
You won't die if you touch it (edit: You wont die if you touch the outside. If you stick a screwdriver through the tin at the right spot .. yes you will die. But its a 100-1 shot!).. and the Adapter that goes from DVI to D-sub may affect your quality and cause shadowing. Change adapters.
Sorry for replying so late...
Just to be sure, when you say that a DVI to D-sub might cause shadowing, what exactly is D-sub? Right now I've got a male DVI to male VGA cable that I use to connect my monitor, and though I'm not exactly sure what shadowing is, I suppose that's what my problem is right now. Everything looks like it has a bit of a shadow on one side, and a bit of a halo on the other. Would the DVI to BNC cable be better than what I have now? Although I can't really come up with anything else that might get me a lossless connection :confused:
Again sorry for being such a noob :)
 
Sorry for replying so late...
Just to be sure, when you say that a DVI to D-sub might cause shadowing, what exactly is D-sub? Right now I've got a male DVI to male VGA cable that I use to connect my monitor, and though I'm not exactly sure what shadowing is, I suppose that's what my problem is right now. Everything looks like it has a bit of a shadow on one side, and a bit of a halo on the other. Would the DVI to BNC cable be better than what I have now? Although I can't really come up with anything else that might get me a lossless connection :confused:
Again sorry for being such a noob :)

Some DVI->VGA converters are better than others. Try different ones out and see if shadows are can be minimized. Perhaps someone on an AV forum knows of a super high quality DVI->VGA converter that. Just be careful that such a device wouldn't add input lag
 
Some DVI->VGA converters are better than others. Try different ones out and see if shadows are can be minimized. Perhaps someone on an AV forum knows of a super high quality DVI->VGA converter that. Just be careful that such a device wouldn't add input lag

I already tried three different converters, and I'm not sure if I want to get yet another one at an even higher price... it's too bad that the FW900 only has VGA input, and bummer that quality is reduced by so much when the source output is digital :(
If neither a standard DVI-VGA cable nor a DVI-BNC cable will help, I guess I'll just have to settle for this.
 
The converter i found worked best came from my old Radeon x1900. I also have a very thick, high quality 6' vga cable with ferrite beads on both ends. And the shadowing I get is very minimal and only appears over certain colors of background (like Steams color scheme)
 
I have fw900 and curios to what desktop resolutions you guys are running? And if its high what are you doing to make the icons and text easier to read?

Also what settigns in the menu can adjust where if you look at the both side edges of the screen starting from the bottom it gradually goes inward/narrow when at the top. So basically the sides of the screen are not straight.
 
I have fw900 and curios to what desktop resolutions you guys are running? And if its high what are you doing to make the icons and text easier to read?

1920x1200 is supposed to be the best resolution, but I use 1600x1000. Partially because of the quality loss in DVI-VGA conversion and partially because I haven't yet had the guts to poke a screwdriver in my monitor to turn the focus knobs.
 
I have fw900 and curios to what desktop resolutions you guys are running? And if its high what are you doing to make the icons and text easier to read?

Also what settigns in the menu can adjust where if you look at the both side edges of the screen starting from the bottom it gradually goes inward/narrow when at the top. So basically the sides of the screen are not straight.


1920x1200 is supposed to be the best resolution, but I use 1600x1000. Partially because of the quality loss in DVI-VGA conversion and partially because I haven't yet had the guts to poke a screwdriver in my monitor to turn the focus knobs.

You shouldn't have to mess with these adjustments. They are glued in place for a reason.

More than likely, you just need to work on convergence. If convergence is too far off, you have to use dynamic convergence in WINDAS
 
I will let you know how good it is when I get it.

Fail. Epic fail. If you guess Non-working, You have chosen correctly:

SDC12267.jpg


SDC12266.jpg


SDC12265.jpg


SDC12267.jpg


If you guess that the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it...You just got bonus points.

Thank god for paypal disputes. This one will be epic.

2 months ago, I quit smoking. Tonight I re-started. Camel Nonfilters ftw.


http://www.nooooooooooooooo.com/
 
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Fail. Epic fail. If you guess Non-working, You have chosen correctly:

If you guess that the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it...You just got bonus points.

Thank god for paypal disputes. This one will be epic.

2 months ago, I quit smoking. Tonight I re-started. Camel Nonfilters ftw.


Yeah, welcome to the club..

IMG_4693.jpg


Mine was FedEx Ground and I had picked the wrong time to stop sniffing glue.

lloyd-bridges-31.gif


Quick story.. Guy I bought it from in cali.. (I am in NY) wasn't willing to ship. So to make it super easy I sent him an empty box 25x25x25" and 35lbs costing me $50 and it was even pre-labeled by a fedex employee FRAGILE and THIS END UP. I reinforced the crap out of it and included everything he would need to just place the monitor in there and I arranged pickup from cali to me for another $90. Everything was perfect but the box was OBVIOUSLY Dropped strait on its side causing the crack. The monitor still works fine but It was SUPER green until I figured out to run several image restorations on it.

Bought a second on from Brooklyn for nearly 3 times what I paid for the Cali one just because I could pick it up.
 
You shouldn't have to mess with these adjustments. They are glued in place for a reason.

More than likely, you just need to work on convergence. If convergence is too far off, you have to use dynamic convergence in WINDAS

Look at page 65 or115 my refrence guide on main page
I adjusted my focus pods much sharper now
Its called calibraition and maintence
The reason there glued is so they don't move by accident (like shipping)
These monitors are old and need to be fine tuned now an then or recalibrated
PS: Buy a new bezel 49.99 from Sony
 
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I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now. Just a few nights ago I bought a pristine condition FW900 locally for $100. It worked beautifully at his house. He was using VGA to connect to the monitor. Ive read mixed reviews on which cables to use for the best picture quality. Currently I have an 8800GTS 512mb with only DVI. I've yet to hook it up to my pc due to me moving into a new apartment and still unpacking and whatnot. So any suggestion on what cables give out excellent picture quality? Can I get links to where I can buy these high quality cables? Thanks so much and this thread was a huge help. If I had not stumbled upon it I'd still be using my widescreen Gateway 19".
 
which cables to use for the best picture quality.

http://www.worldofcables.com/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1376

You want to go BNC.. But getting everything to go just right can take effort. Firstly you need to find a "lucky" DVI to VGA adapter. They sell bnc to dvi but even then you have to hope to get a good one with no ghosting. So I recommend using your own and being able to switch it out should the problem occur.

Secondly if you go BNC or (RGBHV) then you get no DDC info sent to your PC which means overriding the drivers and forcing your resolutions and refresh rates. This can be a piece of cake for XP users with sub 5000 series cards or HELL ON EARTH for 7 users with 5000 series cards.

I have used both VGA and RGBHV and the bnc connection is FAR superior.
 
Fail. Epic fail. If you guess Non-working, You have chosen correctly:

SDC12267.jpg


SDC12266.jpg


SDC12265.jpg


SDC12267.jpg


If you guess that the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it...You just got bonus points.

Thank god for paypal disputes. This one will be epic.

2 months ago, I quit smoking. Tonight I re-started. Camel Nonfilters ftw.


http://www.nooooooooooooooo.com/

If you paid for insurance and he did not get it
Breach of contract
Paypal should rule in your favor
 
Fail. Epic fail. If you guess Non-working, You have chosen correctly:


If you guess that the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it...You just got bonus points.

Thank god for paypal disputes. This one will be epic.

2 months ago, I quit smoking. Tonight I re-started. Camel Nonfilters ftw.


http://www.nooooooooooooooo.com/

Have you considered parting that thing out? I've a FW-900 here in need of a replacement Power supply board.
 
Don't fault the seller yet...however; don't expect more than you paid either :(

Insurance is a fickle beast...especially on used older equipment. I often choose to self-insure and will charge my buyers for that. If the item arrives damaged I just refund the money.

It took me about 6 shipments of 21" Trinitrons before I got one intact...all but 2 were packed totally properly. 1 was just thrown in a box with peanuts (stupid seller) and the other that arrived was not the right monitor at all...but it was also damaged in shipment.

The thing that sucks is it was definite carrier damage each time. Even the one that was good to go had abuse to the packaging.
 
When I got my FW900 from azatek (whom no longer exists), they used the expanding foam stuff (forget the real name for it) to create an effectively void-less carton. I can't see shipping a large CRT any other way.

I'm not sure how well AccurateIT packs stuff. But, I would always make sure I knew in detail how the seller was going to pack a monitor like this before going through with a purchase.
 
"the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it"
I'm I missing something or did this buyer just get screwed by the seller
There no 2 sides to this dicussion the seller thought he could keep the extra cash and took a chance and charged him for it
If he filed a dispute the seller must not want to refund money willingly
 
"the seller scammed me by not placing insurance, but charging me for it"
I'm I missing something or did this buyer just get screwed by the seller
There no 2 sides to this dicussion the seller thought he could keep the extra cash and took a chance and charged him for it
If he filed a dispute the seller must not want to refund money willingly

Heres how it ended:

The seller charged me $130 to ship the item with insurance. I stressed repeatedly that It HAD to be boxed very very well, and I had no issue paying more for quality shipping. What I got was 2 boxes taped together with shipping tape, AND newspaper for padding material. What the seller did not know was that when I got this in working condition, I was going to paypal him $50 more dollars.

The only attempt at a discussion was the seller asking if we could simply "split the cost" of the monitor and shipping. I don't know about you guys, but I got better ways to throw away $150 dollars.

UPS reported that actual shipping cost was $77 without insurance. In lieu of me claiming the automatic $100 insurance that UPS offers, they extended the courtesy of returning the item at their expense. I filed a dispute with paypal, stating that funding was more than afforded for insurance of the item in question. I paid handsomely for the item pictured in that auction, and what I got was a busted item that my state would charge me for disposal of due to the mercury and other toxic materials that comprise it. Within 24 hours they awarded me 100% of my costs right back.

UPS has the whole situation under review and the monitor will be taken to the local hub for investigation, because even though it wasn't boxed up the best, it was quite apparent that it was mishandled. It wouldn't take a lot to break the bezel, but to have dropped it so hard that no signs of powering up, No smoke, no sparks, and no fire.

Either way Im happy with how it was handled. the shipper certainly screwed up badly. As advice to anyone shipping ANY CRT, the best way to handle it is to take the monitor DIRECTLY to a UPS store IN light bubble wrap only, and pay them to box it SUFFICIENTLY. Even make sure they test it as working as further proof.

After this incident, my Buddie and I have hatched a scheme to mail an old 17 inch dell back and forth with $500 insurance. My guess is that there is a 75% chance of it being destroyed.

Either way I compared the size of the FW 900 to my current 22", and it has IDENTICAL height, just 3" wider. Ive gotten a handle on another one, but its tricky because its "pickup only". Thankfully I have an employee who lives 45 minutes from it, who will be making sure it gets packed up by ups and insured correctly. Its a shame when you have to call out of state to make these things happen.
 
When I got my FW900 from azatek (whom no longer exists), they used the expanding foam stuff (forget the real name for it) to create an effectively void-less carton. I can't see shipping a large CRT any other way.

I'm not sure how well AccurateIT packs stuff. But, I would always make sure I knew in detail how the seller was going to pack a monitor like this before going through with a purchase.

The Ebay seller that shipped mine put it in a triple layered box (basically 3 boxes) and then filled it tightly with bubble wrap, and finally wrapped the outside with plastic wrap for extra sturdiness. Seemed to do the trick although he had a lot of practice boxing these beasts, being he had a huge lot of them for sale at the time.

IMG_FW900_Boxr.jpg
 
Its so crazy how those old CRTs have to be shipped. If it wasn't for that I would probably snag one of these monsters .. but alas none locally and I will not be shipping something like this.
 
Good luck with your scheme, you realize that is criminal though, right?

Anyway...when paying a seller for shipping and insurance you are entering a contract with them...it doesn't matter what policies or pricing anyone else offers. For example, if the carrier is charging me $10 to ship that doesn't cover the cost of my box and foam/packing materials. On a larger volume item, the materials may be more than the cost of the postage.

As a seller I can choose to build this into my pricing or charge for it on the back end.

As a seller I can choose to insure my packages myself and state those insurance policies. When I do insurance I self-insure, I offer to have the item shipped back at my cost and refund the money.

I work for a large company and in our heyday we had a lot of equipment to get back and forth between coasts. Certain routes I knew no matter how careful I packaged items, they arrived with considerable box abuse. These were insured through the carrier.

Dealing with insurance isn't as simple as saying your package is worth a grand and hoping it breaks. They send out adjusters and the like in cases like that. In the end it also is a long process and chances are if you are not backed by a company that would go to court over it, the carrier will tell you to pound sand.

In our case we had 3 shipments of 6 LCD's packed and shipped by UPS. They all arrived with damage, one box it looked like the panels were melted they were so mangled. It took 6 months to end the claim and another 30-60 days to get our check. They were adjusted down from the $300 we paid for each to $200 each that would buy us the exact same units.

Often though on items like the FW900, it's value to you may be much more than accepting you simply have to return it and get your money back, unfortunately time and that are not covered.
 
Heres how it ended:

The seller charged me $130 to ship the item with insurance. I stressed repeatedly that It HAD to be boxed very very well, and I had no issue paying more for quality shipping. What I got was 2 boxes taped together with shipping tape, AND newspaper for padding material. What the seller did not know was that when I got this in working condition, I was going to paypal him $50 more dollars.

The only attempt at a discussion was the seller asking if we could simply "split the cost" of the monitor and shipping. I don't know about you guys, but I got better ways to throw away $150 dollars.

UPS reported that actual shipping cost was $77 without insurance. In lieu of me claiming the automatic $100 insurance that UPS offers, they extended the courtesy of returning the item at their expense. I filed a dispute with paypal, stating that funding was more than afforded for insurance of the item in question. I paid handsomely for the item pictured in that auction, and what I got was a busted item that my state would charge me for disposal of due to the mercury and other toxic materials that comprise it. Within 24 hours they awarded me 100% of my costs right back.

UPS has the whole situation under review and the monitor will be taken to the local hub for investigation, because even though it wasn't boxed up the best, it was quite apparent that it was mishandled. It wouldn't take a lot to break the bezel, but to have dropped it so hard that no signs of powering up, No smoke, no sparks, and no fire.

Either way Im happy with how it was handled. the shipper certainly screwed up badly. As advice to anyone shipping ANY CRT, the best way to handle it is to take the monitor DIRECTLY to a UPS store IN light bubble wrap only, and pay them to box it SUFFICIENTLY. Even make sure they test it as working as further proof.

After this incident, my Buddie and I have hatched a scheme to mail an old 17 inch dell back and forth with $500 insurance. My guess is that there is a 75% chance of it being destroyed.

Either way I compared the size of the FW 900 to my current 22", and it has IDENTICAL height, just 3" wider. Ive gotten a handle on another one, but its tricky because its "pickup only". Thankfully I have an employee who lives 45 minutes from it, who will be making sure it gets packed up by ups and insured correctly. Its a shame when you have to call out of state to make these things happen.

Let me guess, its this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-GDM-FW900-...temQQptZComputer_Monitors?hash=item4a9f33fb7d
 
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Good luck with your scheme, you realize that is criminal though, right?

Anyway...when paying a seller for shipping and insurance you are entering a contract with them...it doesn't matter what policies or pricing anyone else offers. For example, if the carrier is charging me $10 to ship that doesn't cover the cost of my box and foam/packing materials. On a larger volume item, the materials may be more than the cost of the postage.

I was in no way serious about the $500 insurance thing, but in all honestly, what is the point of paying a logistics firm to ship something if you know there is a greater than 50% chance of it getting damaged? That seems more like a scam than a shipping firm.


I cant see where a pile of newspaper, 2 previously used boxes taped together, and 2 pieces of foam + the cost of putting the "box" outside for pickup costs $40+ dollars.



It was. I simply cannot justify the amount of money and effort required to get one of these right now. If I can get one close by, I will fire away, but untill something is within a 3-4 hour drive I will wait. I feel I cant even trust a shipping company to move something around without breaking it. The monitor I had was 100% perfect. No scratches on the screen or bezel. UPS destroyed it.
 
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people don't understand how jeans can cost $200+ or a suit $5k.

No one is forcing a buyer to buy.

I have had bad luck with all the carriers on damage...UPS the worst, DHL the least (they don't ship domestic anymore :()...USPS has always been great, but costly.
 
I was in no way serious about the $500 insurance thing, but in all honestly, what is the point of paying a logistics firm to ship something if you know there is a greater than 50% chance of it getting damaged? That seems more like a scam than a shipping firm.


I cant see where a pile of newspaper, 2 previously used boxes taped together, and 2 pieces of foam + the cost of putting the "box" outside for pickup costs $40+ dollars.




It was. I simply cannot justify the amount of money and effort required to get one of these right now. If I can get one close by, I will fire away, but untill something is within a 3-4 hour drive I will wait. I feel I cant even trust a shipping company to move something around without breaking it. The monitor I had was 100% perfect. No scratches on the screen or bezel. UPS destroyed it.

That is just the way shipping is......hence why those type of things have to be packed very well. Then again, I've never attempted to ship a CRT via Fedex or UPS.
 
Need a little help here. I'm currently using a DVI-VGA adapter and a VGA-BNC cable to connect to the FW900. I can get 1920x1200 85hz on the desktop but I cant get that in WoW. It only allows 1600x1024. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
hi plp, i have a big problem with my gdm-fw900, its been faultless all this time until a few nights ago the screen went blankand displays an orange light that just blinks, so i took the back off icant smell anything bad there was no bang or pop or fizz, when i turn the monitor on there is no degause present, i dont hear the normal relay click but there is some kind of click present and there is no static build up either, the 3 heaters are on full anyone know where i can get spare parts for this i dont want to throw away a perfectly good tube!
 
Im so jealous, I want one of these so badly but if i put this on my desk I think it will just fall right through cause my desk is on its last legs.
 
Does anyone have one of these units thats not working?? i need the power supply and i need the other big board opposite the power supply board which has the flyback transformer on it, i will pay good money for it but i live in the uk so dont know how to get around this !
 
Can't help you with the broken power supply, but maybe you could help me with this:

I'm trying to take the case off my FW900 to adjust the focus knobs (I see where they are in the rear).

So far I've gotten the rear plastic panel off and the four screws around the main case in the front out. Is my only choice to go in from the rear, or do I need to take off the main case (I don't know how) to get at it from above?
 
Can't help you with the broken power supply, but maybe you could help me with this:

I'm trying to take the case off my FW900 to adjust the focus knobs (I see where they are in the rear).

So far I've gotten the rear plastic panel off and the four screws around the main case in the front out. Is my only choice to go in from the rear, or do I need to take off the main case (I don't know how) to get at it from above?

with the right sized screw driver u should be able to adjust the pots without haveing to take anything apart.
 
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