12V line is 14

M

mattthemodder

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 16, 2003
Messages
233
+3.3 | 1.49 V | 1.49 V | 1.49 V | 1.49 V |
+5.00 | 5.21 V | 4.31 V | 6.07 V | 5.21 V |
+12.00 | 14.07 V | 14.01 V | 14.14 V | 14.07 V |
-12.00 | -8.65 V | -9.05 V | -8.19 V | -8.69 V |

How bad does that look?

BTW its this psu
 
Well, those numbers are from a software program, which are all notoriously inaccurate when it comes to specific voltages. However, they are pretty damn good at detecting changes, so those numbers are quite frankly scary. That PSU barely meets ATX specs for ripple and regulation. For you equipment's sake, get a new, high quality supply. Is it really worth $40 to skimp on a PSU, which could easily damage $1000 of equipment?
 
Just to be sure, get a digital multimeter and check those voltages.
 
Some say that you get a more accurate reading when you test from the 20-pin connector, but I can't say for sure. I've always tested using a free molex connector.

Just make sure that you test at idle and at full load.
 
tgxiii said:
Some say that you get a more accurate reading when you test from the 20-pin connector, but I can't say for sure. I've always tested using a free molex connector.
Click to expand...

You don't get a more accurate reading at the motherboard connector; you get a more meaningful reading. You'll get a different voltage at the two connectors because of the different length of wire between the two connectors and the actual power source.

If I want to know what voltage is entering my refrigerartor, I measure at the plug behind my refigerator. I don't measure the outlet behind the garage at my buddy's house. I have a nice Fluke meter, so the measurement is accurate no matter where I measure it. But only the measurement I make behind my refrigerator is relevant to the question of how much voltage is behind my refigerator.

Depending on the supply, the drive connector might even be a separate output rail than what the motherboard is seeing.

.B ekiM
 
a more pertinent question would be whats it running?

that supply is only rated at 17A max on the +12V
I dont recognize the manufacturer, its likely only rated at that when its at 25C
(likely your oprerating at closer to 40C in the PSU enclosure)
the "rating" is thus inflated, and the actual parameter for how long it can output 17A on the +12V without an unacceptable sag completely unknown considering its likely a rebranded Generic
your probably drawing way too much power on the +12V rail for that to deal with
watts dont mean @#$%!
 
You can NEVER rely upon motherboard voltage readings unless you first verify them with a digital multimeter. I have an ECS K7VTA3 v. 8, and Motherboard Monitor says that its +12V rail puts out 10.6xV while SpeedFan says that it alternates between 6V and 8V every second, all while the meter shows a steady +12.11V. The fact that your system's +3.3V is being reported as +1.49V should make you really suspicious because if that was the real reading, the mobo wouldn't work at all, unless it was an unusual one that doesn't use the +3.3V rail but instead generates this voltage from the +5V.

JeanTech isn't the best, but I don't believe they're the worst, either, although I'd like to see what one looks like inside.
 
Yeah.. My BIOS and MBM show 4.7 for the 5V rail which is actually right at 5V with a DMM and around 11.40 for the 12V which is actually more like 12.25V with a DMM. Don't trust what you see on the screen.
 
which is why there is a calibration option in MBM
and that link covers the verification with a DMM
however that is an older ATX12V PSU with questionable parentage
(that is a case manufacturing company, they stamp metal not make PSUs and its likely just this side of generic junk, )
and depending on what its actually trying to power....


your acceptable range for voltage regulation is 5%
+3.3V Orange 3.135V to 3.465V
+5V Red 4.75V to 5.25V
+12V Yellow 11.4V to 12.6V
as mentioned in the link test starting from power on
serious instability is most likely to occur as your spinning up drives and fans
though its not the only time, if the supply is overloaded especially, any sudden change in load could produce under or over shoots
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top