Parish_Rane
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2009
- Messages
- 216
Sleeving Question: For those of you who have shortened / sleeved the SF600. Thoughts on average cable run length? Or a direction to a good readup on the topic.
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https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608020
Probably a good idea to check with the vendor but a company named AmaMax is listing a Noctua NH-C14 original version on Newegg for $120. Be worth the price if you could actually still get one new.
Sleeving Question: For those of you who have shortened / sleeved the SF600. Thoughts on average cable run length? Or a direction to a good readup on the topic.
Alright. I've gotten the SX700-LPT installed:
1. The fan does turn on sometimes during gaming, and when it is on, it is somewhat loud, but it activates only briefly. HUGE improvement over the SF450, which spun up loudly and *stayed spun up* even when I stopped gaming.
2. I'll try replacing the slim 140mm fan with two slim 120mm fans in the side bracket to see if that helps. When I have some spare time, I'll also try flipping the vent of the PSU inward (*might* run cooler, once there are two 120mm fans)
3. I might also try replacing the PSU fan with a better one, but I'll probably wait and see if Noctua actually releases the slim 120mm fan that they've been teasing for years this summer.
4. Installation was a bit tight. An extra mm or two of height in the case would do wonders... But I got the video card in there without too much difficulty.
5. No coil whine detected from the PSU, though I did notice some from the motherboard. I've been having lots of minor issues with the board (popping in audio, one of the front panel USB ports provides power but not data, unresponsive keyboard on bootup, flicker in video (though I haven't seen the latter two since upgrading to Windows 10)) so I might have a defective motherboard.
6. I really really like that the SX700 only requires one set of cables from the PSU to provide two 6+2 power connectors to the video card. Definitely helps with wire clutter.
Here's a picture of it:
Asus Z170I Pro Gaming
6700k
Noctua C14s cooler
be quiet! Silentwings 3 (lower CPU fan)
NF-A9 FLX (exaust)
Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140mm slim fan (side panel/upper CPU fan)
Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming GTX 1070
Silverstone SX700-LPT
Samsung 960 Evo 1tb (NVMe)
Right now, the lower fan situation is less than ideal, since I'm waiting on Noctua to send me some 120mm clips. Right now, half of it is being propped in place by the ram, so the fan is at an off-angle.Can you talk about temps / noise with this setup? The prolimatech fans are very nice, wondering how important the lower fan is.
Right now, the lower fan situation is less than ideal, since I'm waiting on Noctua to send me some 120mm clips. Right now, half of it is being propped in place by the ram, so the fan is at an off-angle.
As for noise, the Xtreme Gaming has rather buzzy fans, which, as long as the PSU fan doesn't spin up, aren't terribly noisy, but do have a somewhat irritating sound signature.
The CPU fans are very quiet, even when running Prime95. Temperatures peaked at 80, but I do have the fans running slowly and the lower fan is off-angle.
Coil whine on the motherboard is somewhat irritating when running Prime 95.
The PSU fan speeds up pretty much immediately if I'm playing a game that requires 100% GPU power, and it is loud. Games that require less only cause it to spin up on occasion.
My hopes are that flipping the PSU inward + a pair of 120mm fans will quiet down the PSU under load. If not, I'll replace the fan (being veeeerrrry careful and using rubber gloves when doing so!)
Oh, and has anyone with the Xtreme Gaming tried removing the shroud and replacing it with a pair of bottom-mounted 120mm fans? Taking advantage of the oversized heatsink, but replacing the fans with ones with a better sound signature. Given the construction of the M1, exhaust is the preferred direction, correct?
Alright. I'll look into it.I read your last post and think you absolutely have a defective mobo. I had a Z270i with coil whine, 1 usb header bad, and front audio not coming through correctly. You'll definitely want to check that out!
I'd say jump all over that! Wow! Amamax is one of Noctuas biggest distributors, and sells a lot via Amazon/Newegg. I would have no hesitation buying that or paying that price.
Am I wrong to think there seems to be an unusually large amount of QC issues with these new z270 mobos?I just got a Z270 ASRock ITX Fatal1ty, and the board is fantastic.... other than the fact it won't post with anything in the DIMM A slot.
DIMM B only works great, DIMM A, nope, DIMM A+B, nope.
CPU fan whirrs up and down kinda pulsing at high rpm.
=/
Going to check tonight with another set of RAM, then RMA it off....
I also ordered a SATA-Express (PCI-E x2) to PCI-E x4 adapter, will let people know if it works tonight. Put that 3rd PCI slot to work...
What is that?I also ordered a SATA-Express (PCI-E x2) to PCI-E x4 adapter, will let people know if it works tonight. Put that 3rd PCI slot to work...
Forgot cable hadn't gotten here from china.What is that?
Am I wrong to think there there seems to be an unusually large amount of QC issues with these new z270 mobos?
Interesting. I'd like some pics when you get that installedForgot cable hadn't gotten here from china.
http://www.microsatacables.com/u2-sff8639-to-pcie-4-lane-adapter-sff-993-u2-4l
SATA-Express is PCI-E x2 electrically, so that's valid.
M.2 would be better, but this isn't a GPU so it doesn't need the extra 2 lanes, so I didn't bother.
Mobo is confirmed bad... RMAing (or the CPU memory controller which I HOPE not).
The metal cover (which is also covered with clear plastic by the way) is a heatsink for any M.2 SSD you install in that slot. The blue tape (that says "remove") is protecting the white thermal pad that should make contact with the label of the SSD (which, most of the labels claim to have some kind of copper or aluminum to them to act as a weird cheap heatsink).anyone have an Asus Z270i?
just started building and see this:
View attachment 19236
looks to be some sort of tape that needs to be removed?? anyone have any ideas?
Whoa, surprised to see that my Z77 Asus Deluxe/WD ITX mobo is selling on ebay used ($~160+) for more than my brand new purchase price ($150). I'm wondering why... is it because Windows 10 is now attached to the mobo? i5 2500K also has solid price at $80. Looks like I won't have to spend much to upgrade to 7700K or the new Ryzen!
Anyone else here looking to upgrade and still deciding between Ryzen and 7700K? Any guesses how many months before an ITX for AM4 gets released?
I'm slightly leaning towards Ryzen since I read it has better minimum frame rates, though gets beat by 7700K overall in gaming. I'm betting that future games are optimized to use more CPU cores. Back when I got the 2500K, there was really no point getting the i7 version for gaming since not many games would use all the threads. That has clearly changed by today.
EDIT: Just watched this. Basically a more in-depth big picture analysis of cpu performance dating back from Intel 2500K vs AMD 8xxx up to 7700K vs Ryzen. I'd say I'm now sold on getting Ryzen for my upgrade.
I used to have an H80i, and I thought the power for the pump comes from SATA? Also, the internal USB is for the Corsair Link software stuff (which isn't mandatory) but I'm pretty sure the Z270I doesn't have any headers that match.awesome thanks... ok, I have another weird issue. So my H100i needs an internal USB connector for power, my old motherboard had two of these but the Z270i doesn't seem to... it does have this header called 'heatsink 3' that isn't documented anywhere in the manual... can I use it for that? pic:
View attachment 19240
edit: just found out it won't fit, I can't align the connector to fit the header properly so it must not be the right connector
I used to have an H80i, and I thought the power for the pump comes from SATA? Also, the internal USB is for the Corsair Link software stuff (which isn't mandatory) but I'm pretty sure the Z270I doesn't have any headers that match.
Aircooling while you have such a big reservoir available??!!Accelero!
As with most AIOs the pump speed is fixed, there is no PWM and you shouldn't try to change the pump speed through adjusting the voltage. The USB header is for monitoring water temperature, controlling the light and adjusting fan speeds. I.e. you are stuck with the constant humming noise of the pump, which is the very reason I chose air cooling.I'm pretty sure Corsair Link is not mandatory for these units. You're controlling the pump with PWM, fans with a separate PWM header... so, LED lighting?
xDDDDDAircooling while you have such a big reservoir available??!!
Looks like a dangerous setup, hopefully the M1 will not fall backward from its elevated position!
Hello,
Having just acquired an M1 (undamaged from post #23441), I have some noob questions. I've read several hundred pages of this thread, which have been informative, but at the same time the sheer mass of posts has turned into a stream of mush in my memory.
I have a long time to wait for my build, as I'm waiting for a Ryzen-compatible mini-ITX board to become available which is probably months away. At the same time, I live in Hong Kong where it's surprisingly difficult to get a decent variety of computer parts (e.g. the Noctua U9S is a special order item here and has a 2 month delivery time) so I'd like to at least make a start getting things (fans and coolers) together now via the US.
My system will be something like this:
My main goal is lots of positive air pressure as I live in a dusty environment. I'll be using much finer 3M Filtrete sheets over the fan intakes rather than the dust filters that come with the M1, and these sheets really impact airflow, hence a preference for two high static pressure fans. A second and conflicting goal is I'd like this build not to sound like a hair drier. The PC will be about a yard away, above my head.
- AMD 1700 or 1700X, mildly overclocked, probably using a Noctua U9S or a Dark Rock TF for air cooled simplicity
- Old graphics card (9" dual fan Radeon R9 270X) as the only game I play is not GPU intensive
- Motherboard: The only one that's been announced so far is by Biostar, here: https://www.kitguru.net/components/...hows-off-first-mini-itx-x370-am4-motherboard/
- In addition to SSDs, I'll be mounting a single 3.5" HDD
I'm going to start off ordering several fans, 2 x NF-F12 and 1 x NF-A15, and possibly a U9S or Dark Rock TF.
So my questions:
- Does using a Noctua U9S mean that there is no space for an intake fan directly above the motherboard?
- Does the Dark Rock TF still have the terrible mounting system that is mentioned from the old 2015 reviews, or has Dark Rock addressed this? Any idea if this cooler will work with the Biostar motherboard linked above?
- Will the addition of the single 3.5" drive interfere with the installation or airflow of a side intake fan?
Thanks.
Hello,
Having just acquired an M1 (undamaged from post #23441), I have some noob questions. I've read several hundred pages of this thread, which have been informative, but at the same time the sheer mass of posts has turned into a stream of mush in my memory.
I have a long time to wait for my build, as I'm waiting for a Ryzen-compatible mini-ITX board to become available which is probably months away. At the same time, I live in Hong Kong where it's surprisingly difficult to get a decent variety of computer parts (e.g. the Noctua U9S is a special order item here and has a 2 month delivery time) so I'd like to at least make a start getting things (fans and coolers) together now via the US.
My system will be something like this:
My main goal is lots of positive air pressure as I live in a dusty environment. I'll be using much finer 3M Filtrete sheets over the fan intakes rather than the dust filters that come with the M1, and these sheets really impact airflow, hence a preference for two high static pressure fans. A second and conflicting goal is I'd like this build not to sound like a hair drier. The PC will be about a yard away, above my head.
- AMD 1700 or 1700X, mildly overclocked, probably using a Noctua U9S or a Dark Rock TF for air cooled simplicity
- Old graphics card (9" dual fan Radeon R9 270X) as the only game I play is not GPU intensive
- Motherboard: The only one that's been announced so far is by Biostar, here: https://www.kitguru.net/components/...hows-off-first-mini-itx-x370-am4-motherboard/
- In addition to SSDs, I'll be mounting a single 3.5" HDD
I'm going to start off ordering several fans, 2 x NF-F12 and 1 x NF-A15, and possibly a U9S or Dark Rock TF.
So my questions:
- Does using a Noctua U9S mean that there is no space for an intake fan directly above the motherboard?
- Does the Dark Rock TF still have the terrible mounting system that is mentioned from the old 2015 reviews, or has Dark Rock addressed this? Any idea if this cooler will work with the Biostar motherboard linked above?
- Will the addition of the single 3.5" drive interfere with the installation or airflow of a side intake fan?
Thanks.
In your guys' opinion, in terms of Corsair water cooling, is there a big performance difference between dual radiator (e.g. H100) vs single radiator (i.e. H75, H80) etc.? If not, shouldn't we just go single radiator?
You really should look at other cooling options. I know you're in HK, why not take the train a short way to Shenzhen where they have electronics shopping malls for pc building? You can easily find one of the cooling options not readily available in north america. Scythe for example should be very easy to get over there. (I used to live in HK)
What's the reason you even need to consider water cooling? What chip / overclock do you desire?
I just added a Noctua P12 to the side bracket and connected it with the included low noise adapter to my Asus Z270i Strix Gaming but the fan doesn't spin. It just barely moves forward and backwards. Would could I've done wrong?
//edit
Oh well, the P12 seems to be off when not needed and turns on if needed. Does this sound normal to you? I am not familiar with this.