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Has anyone found a solution to all of the PC windows being in the upper left hand portion of the screen each time the TV is turned on?
Has anyone found a solution to all of the PC windows being in the upper left hand portion of the screen each time the TV is turned on?
Describe this issue, I don't see it. My browser and explorer windows remember its previous location on reboots.
A few times when I've turned mine on, Chrome has resized itself to like an 1024x768 window at the top left corner of the screen. And other programs that I had running might be relocated to different areas on the desktop.
It didn't do it today or yesterday though, so it seems to be intermittent.
As far as the firmware, I updated to 1210 and so far so good. Thanks for the early positive reports.
I've got the top left box thing problem too. Is it how it wakes from sleep?
Power on order? Power on TV, then wake it up?
It's annoying as hell.
A few times when I've turned mine on, Chrome has resized itself to like an 1024x768 window at the top left corner of the screen. And other programs that I had running might be relocated to different areas on the desktop.
It didn't do it today or yesterday though, so it seems to be intermittent.
As far as the firmware, I updated to 1210 and so far so good. Thanks for the early positive reports.
The input lag in 4k is the only thing thats stopping me from buying one. My overlord monitor is not the best but its ok as far as lag goes.
Mine has been doing the same thing, is randomly resizes all windows to the same size and stacks them all on top of each other.
So did some further testing, I recommend setting the gpu to YBR 4:4:4 in the Nvidia control panel, in that mode playing in game mode 4k it feels just as responsive as 1080p... this was not the case on 1209 firmware.
Do you manage to view BIOS POST with a Nvidia HDMI 2.0 card and UHD Color enabled?
50 on PC should be native resolution with nothing applied... at least that's what someone said. 0 in game mode = 50 in PC mode.
Thats correct, lowering it under 50 in pc mode reduces sharpness. At 50 there no additonal sharpening being added.
Would 50 in PC mode really equal 0 in game mode? That doesn't seem sensical; it would make sense that it defaults to one or the other, though.
And to say that at 50 no sharpening is being added...so what does that make 0 then? Intentional blurring? I could be wrong but I see no practical application for that idea.
^^ Then this has been fixed in recent firmware. If so that's great news!
It was documented early-on in the thread and verified multiple times.
I may have spoken too soon on that. While I have looked at this before and don't recall it doing so, mine is definitely resetting the HDMI black levels to "auto" every time I turn the TV off. I don't know if this started with version 1209 or what.
I'm looking at buying a Samsung UN40JU6700 for a computer monitor. In the same room, I plan to get a UN65JU7100 for my main tv/couch gaming. I'm purchasing a single Titan X and I'm trying to figure out how I'll connect both tvs like I have with my current 1080p setup. Apparently the Titan only has 1 HDMI 2.0 output. A second Titan X isn't in my budget right now, and I'm not interested in SLI 980s. Does anyone know of a way to get 4k @ 60hz on both TVs? Will I just have to wait for an Active Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter to be released? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The input lag in 4k is the only thing thats stopping me from buying one. My overlord monitor is not the best but its ok as far as lag goes.
Could you pls. answer to this?
Thanks
Hi everyone,
I just bought a Samsung 40JU7500, I am sitting around 2-3 feet from the monitor and I am really bothered by PWM.
I was previously using a Dell UltraSharp U3014 and Rog Swift PG278Q.
The Samsung screen blow those two monitors out of the water, but I am not sure if I will get use to the PWM on the Samsung. Does it get less bothering with time ?
It currently giving me light headache and eye strain.
What optimum setting would you recommend to reduce the PWM to the maximum (I dont mind sacrificing the picture quality).
What Backlight, Brightness, Constrast, Sharpness, other setting are you using to reduce PWM ?
From what I could read in this thread, here are the optimum settings :
Set the back-light to 20 for minimum PWM
brightness to 60
sharpness to 50
contrast to 50 or lower (it can go down all the way to 1 if the screen is too bright). That pretty much eliminates the PWM.
Does everyone agree ?
Does anyone else bothered with PWM got used to it with time ? can it damage eye sight ? (maybe a stupid question just wondering)
I did a lot of research based on this thread, here a few useful links :
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
https://www.flickr.com/photos/97364704@N08/16320517710/
http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/lcd-motion-artifacts/#pwm
Thank you very much for your support !
Regards,
Benoit
Does anyone else bothered with PWM got used to it with time ? can it damage eye sight ? (maybe a stupid question just wondering)
I've seen my MOBO splash screen before (Asus), but not the POST as that's hidden behind the MOBO splash screen. Try changing to full memory check POST (then hide the splash screen if you have one) if you need to see the BIOS. I believe the Samsung loads its OS when it boots for about a few seconds which is the reason why you don't see the POST.
Sorry Cyph, I ment the MOBO splash screen. I cannot see anything before Windows logo appears!
Does anyone have the same problem?
Sorry Cyph, I ment the MOBO splash screen. I cannot see anything before Windows logo appears!
Does anyone have the same problem?
I'm able to see everything, vga card screen>bios screen>windows screen>desktop
What graphics card are you using?
I'm able to see everything, vga card screen>bios screen>windows screen>desktop
What graphics card are you using?
On my machine I only see the POST screens if I boot my system cold with the TV already on. If I just restart it the system I won't.
OS will make a difference in seeing POST. Windows 8 will blow right by it.
Weird, I just tried restarting and still see everything. I'm running a GTX 780 at the moment.
Also, I'm using an a/v receiver.
PC HDMI>A/V receiver>TV
FYI: AV Receiver adds input lag.
Edit: You should go HDMI -> TV -> ARC back to AV
FYI: AV Receiver adds input lag.
Edit: You should go HDMI -> TV -> ARC back to AV
Is there a proof to that? I have it set up the same way and I don't see any difference in lag.
Besides, ARC usually transmits/passes through only 2CH audio, so this is a no go.
Do the Samsung TVs have an HDMI out that you can send back to the receiver just for audio? I'm totally insane about audio and demand bitstreaming for TV/Films (Bitstreaming is audio passthrough to receiver and the receiver does the decoding).
Right now I use Dual link DVI 1440p QNIX 27 inch montor and hdmi passthrough out of my videocard to my receiver... so one cable for video and another for audio. It's great because you can still have a quality av receiver to bitstream DTS HA MA and True HD without having any additional input lag for games.
Do the Samsung TVs have an HDMI out that you can send back to the receiver just for audio? I'm totally insane about audio and demand bitstreaming for TV/Films (Bitstreaming is audio passthrough to receiver and the receiver does the decoding).
Right now I use Dual link DVI 1440p QNIX 27 inch montor and hdmi passthrough out of my videocard to my receiver... so one cable for video and another for audio. It's great because you can still have a quality av receiver to bitstream DTS HA MA and True HD without having any additional input lag for games.
Would you not just connect an optical cable from the TV to your receiver? I haven't done this myself, but was getting ready to.
Please let us know.