Want to get a TEC?

could a good watercooling loop with chilled water @ -30C handle the heatload this can put off? Because if it could, it IS only $20.........
 
computerpro3 said:
could a good watercooling loop with chilled water @ -30C handle the heatload this can put off? Because if it could, it IS only $20.........
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if you have coolant at -30C, why would you waste your time with another pelt?
 
I could use that as a dinner plate. Sure would keep my food warm.
Or I could hook it up to my car battery and use it as an emergency stove!!

Screw computers, I want cold beer. :cool:
 
RickyJ said:
I could use that as a dinner plate. Sure would keep my food warm.
Or I could hook it up to my car battery and use it as an emergency stove!!

Screw computers, I want cold beer. :cool:
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I have a 30watt one that I am going to hook up as a drink cooler. I just need a small PSU to power it and a way to attach a heatsink.

im gonna sit it next to my computer and slide cans/bottles into it :cool:
 
kronchev said:
if you have coolant at -30C, why would you waste your time with another pelt?
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the specs say it works until -60C.....that would be sweet..... 4.5-6ghz probably. My chiller is almost operational, will finish it tomorrow. It brings water down to around -35 no load haven't tested with load yet. Can't wait to throw it on my chip. If I cooled that pelt with it, I would think -50 would be possible...
 
computerpro3 said:
the specs say it works until -60C.....that would be sweet..... 4.5-6ghz probably. My chiller is almost operational, will finish it tomorrow. It brings water down to around -35 no load haven't tested with load yet. Can't wait to throw it on my chip. If I cooled that pelt with it, I would think -50 would be possible...
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...no. youre not listening. dont bother with a pelt if you have coolant that cold. it just adds more heat and complication.
 
I'm gonna be doin some kind of water chiller thinh like the swiftech one... My question is can the Meanwell Powersupply handle this thing and you think the Hyper 6 coolermaster handle the heat (I Think not)??
 
good god a 350W pelt, thatll put a noticable dent in your electric bill.
 
It is not likely you can build a system to make the pelt run at -30C.

Watercooling with standard parts (non-chilled) will take the pelt to about 0-10C, meaning the hot side is 70-80C. Peltier cooled systems can be used as spaceheaters. Quite literally. Depending on the pelt and the setup, you're dumping as much as 350watts of heat into the room.

Hot++;
 
I have a better idea. You could put one side to a Prescott, and the other side to a phase changer, and then hook it up to something. It should provide enough current to power a hard drive, or two.
 
My mach I is a space heater. It makes the room uncomfortable to be in unless the air is turned way down.
 
what water block could possibly cover the whole heat side ? :eek:
I epoxied a copper cold plate to the cold side then the hot side to the large aluminum waterblock that comes with kits. I upgraded a nice copper unit so it was doing nothing.
I connect it to an old AT ps piggy-backed to computer case.
im not sure if it was potting the pelt with non-acidic epoxy and/or epoxying the units together as a whole with as3 between all... but ice would develop within 9 seconds. sounds like utter bs i know but i actually cannot use it because yes the sandwich is too thick and its difficult to connect to mobo.
 
Sepal said:
what water block could possibly cover the whole heat side ? :eek:
I epoxied a copper cold plate to the cold side then the hot side to the large aluminum waterblock that comes with kits. I upgraded a nice copper unit so it was doing nothing.
I connect it to an old AT ps piggy-backed to computer case.
im not sure if it was potting the pelt with non-acidic epoxy and/or epoxying the units together as a whole with as3 between all... but ice would develop within 9 seconds. sounds like utter bs i know but i actually cannot use it because yes the sandwich is too thick and its difficult to connect to mobo.
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how are you doing something wrong, of COURSE its going to ice within 9 seconds, the bastard gets really cold, really fast. if you want to put it on your mobo you have to insulate the hell around it to prevent air from getting near the die so ice doesnt form then melt, as well as you gotta put dielectric grease EVERYWHERE to prevent any icing on the connections
 
i never said i was doing anything wrong ... :D
i hear and agree with you kronchev - bigtime. I must ask you, where else besides the pin holes do you apply the die-grease ? Just currious cause i sensed you meant other places too.
 
it says that peltiers generate electricity if you apply heat to one side while cooling the other, i never knew that. i knew that you can reverse the temps by changing polarity. i have an old 75W pelt laying around that i never used, can only cool to a little under 50F
 
it says that peltiers generate electricity if you apply heat to one side while cooling the other, i never knew that.
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well close... if you run current through the peltier, the electricity draws heat away from one side - drawing it all to one side. The result is the other side gets deprived of heat so much so, that it gets cold.

*edit* forget what i wrote, i get what you said now. But you be the first to use it as a power generator :D
 
mwarps said:
It is not likely you can build a system to make the pelt run at -30C.

Watercooling with standard parts (non-chilled) will take the pelt to about 0-10C, meaning the hot side is 70-80C. Peltier cooled systems can be used as spaceheaters. Quite literally. Depending on the pelt and the setup, you're dumping as much as 350watts of heat into the room.

Hot++;
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Reason why i got out of it :p
Had Swiftech 200W peltier block with 100W block on GPU and it came summer last year :p Gone in no time... Running 2.4b C1 at 3.7ghz was awesome but the heat... sigh. (I had better 3dmark 2001 with that rig than my 3.2c oc'd and 9800 pro oc'd instead of 9700 pro i had)... :p
 
acascianelli said:
it says that peltiers generate electricity if you apply heat to one side while cooling the other, i never knew that.
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The NASA probe that just arrived at Saturn uses peltiers to generate its power (too far from the sun for solar). Coldside is kept cold by space itself, the hotside is warmed by ceramic pellets that contain plutonium. A reliable 30 year supply of power.
 
HeThatKnows said:
The NASA probe that just arrived at Saturn uses peltiers to generate its power (too far from the sun for solar). Coldside is kept cold by space itself, the hotside is warmed by ceramic pellets that contain plutonium. A reliable 30 year supply of power.
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maybe its just me but thats a SICK idea. I gotta hook that up for my car :p
 
note to self...create cooling solution for cpu with lasers and magnetic fields similar to those used to approach absolute zero...

well now i know my summer project :)
 
Actually, the lasers and magnetic fields are used to heat up Deuterium and Tritium to fusion temperatures in fusion reactors, a combination of these two methods, with other ones. One of the ways to achieve close to absolute zero, is the same way of achieving close to absolute vacuum. Where there's no matter, "heat" can't exist.. except IR radiation, but that can be blocked :). Space isn't an absolute vacuum. In one cubic metre of outer space, there's on average 10^24 particles, IIRC.
 
The problem with tec's is that they make everything much more complicated and are generally a waste of time and money because they aren't really that efficient. To actually keep one cool enough to be worth it , it would be much easier to just watercool the system and (maybe) chill the water.
 
I wonder if anyone tried pelt + phase changer to cool the hot side. Or is there no point??
 
I'd say the phase change system probably reaches lower tempertures on its own, plus you just trippled the thermal load on your phase change system.
 
congratz got PICS? :p

it basically decreases the efficiency
lower temperatures are typically gained with direct single stage or cascade phase change systems, there was a member (Satamax) that had the idea to use the amazing amount of heat transfer possible with transforming H2O to superheated steam, and he wanted to use stacked pelts to accomplish it, but the inefficiency was so large I think he abandoned it.
He was also unable to locate pelts powerful enough for the top units, at the time.

a few people experimented with stacked pelts but the inefficiency compared to chipchillers or direct phase change (not to mention the reliability issues) lead to abandonment
 
Stack plets? That's just retarted. What would be the point? CPU-Cold-Hot-Cold-Hot-Cold-Hot and between each process a certain percent of eff. is lost. Why would someone even want to consider this idea?
 
Stacking pelts gives a bigger temperature difference. You just have to make sure each new layer can handle the heat from the one(s) below. It's not too useful an idea for computers, but is common in research setups where you need to reduce thermal noise.
 
it also "typically" increases the interface area to the final waterblack
enlarging it from the core to a typical pelt, then (quite often) dual pelts dealing with the the heat below, but offering twice the interface, a mentioned it was all about increase the temperature differential. There where some pretty fancy rigs to develop good contact force with the various levels and with the CPU core, yet not chip it (exposed Athlon days)

when I first started here there where quite a few accomplished "Pelt Gawds" like
Mr Thompson, who moved on to a position with Arctic Silver

MultiStage Pelts

Multi-Stage modules are modules that are "stacked", or cascaded to achieve higher temperature differences than can be had with single-stage modules. Our proprietary "potting" for moisture protection and ruggedizing is available as an option, although the reduction in performance is more notable with Multi-Stage modules and therefore is rarely used on modules with more than two stages.
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there are PDF spec sheets for various models
and an instruction sheet to interpret a pelts graph
http://www.tetech.com/modules/graphs/instructions.pdf
 
hmmm one only needs to be concerned with 'dealing' with the heat, ultimately with water.
To try to overpower the heat with cold side of #2... rings/sounds true, but what happens when said cold side of #2 (top pelt) starts to warm up a lil ? im worried that would happen, if it does- what happens when a pelt has a hot side and a warm side ? does it take on a new characteristic or does it continue to counter ? the upper one must be a larger/stronger pelt then the lower one ? good-gawd how would one secure the final 'setup' to a mobo ? ubersandwich that eats up two city blocks of electricity :eek:
 
Sepal said:
hmmm one only needs to be concerned with 'dealing' with the heat, ultimately with water.
To try to overpower the heat with cold side of #2... rings/sounds true, but what happens when said cold side of #2 (top pelt) starts to warm up a lil ? im worried that would happen, if it does- what happens when a pelt has a hot side and a warm side ? does it take on a new characteristic or does it continue to counter ? the upper one must be a larger/stronger pelt then the lower one ? good-gawd how would one secure the final 'setup' to a mobo ? ubersandwich that eats up two city blocks of electricity :eek:
Click to expand...

Assuming there is a fairly constant heatload, and that the second peltier can handle the heatload of the CPU and first peltier, the cold side of pelt2 shouldn't really "start to warm up". Hot and cold is all relative, so even if it did get a little warmer, it will always be cooler than the hot side. Now if it gets TOO much warmer, pelt2 is going to start melting in certain places, and then you're really in trouble. So, it's most important to have pelt2 powerful enough to handle the heatload.
Yes, that would be one complex mounting setup :D And yes, you would need a small powerplant in your house to power something like that.
 
kronchev said:
I have a 30watt one that I am going to hook up as a drink cooler. I just need a small PSU to power it and a way to attach a heatsink.

im gonna sit it next to my computer and slide cans/bottles into it :cool:
Click to expand...
bgmicro for powersupplies like 9v, etc... whatever, i dont feel like typing much today
 
uploadit2-CopyofDSCF0045.JPG



my Frankenstien :) gets real real cold.
 
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