Pump , Tubing and misc WC questions

K

Koslov

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 31, 2003
Messages
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Hey guys I'm getting a Polarflo CPU Waterblock SF and Polarflo Northbridge WaterBlock from http://www.polarflo.com (All 1/2" fittings by the way) .
I'm also ordering their AMD64 mount kits.

I plan to use it for the upcoming P4 Prescott (3.4ghz unless the 2.8E 800fsb HT overclocks well). If for some reasons it sucks (wich i doubt) i'll be able to go with AMD

I'd like to know how many feets of Tygon 1/2" tubing I would need for my setup approx.

I hesitate between 3 pumps:
-Via 1300 Pump (370GPH)
-Eheim 1250 Pump (317GPH)
-Hydor L30 Pump

Would I need to buy special adapter to fit my 1/2" tygon tubing on these pumps? or they're okay "stock"

For radiator I plan to buy a JR-120 Performance Radiator with fan shroud and a quiet 120mm fan (vantec stealth or panaflo maybe)

-What are the best water additives that I should put in the water? (ex: SuperCool ,RedLine Water Wetter ,Purple Ice )

-Do you recommend metal hose clamps or nylon?
I heard metal hose clamps can cause leaks (becuase it cuts the tubing overtime)

Finnaly, I would prefer to make a closed loop setup (no reservoir).
Is it hard? I can't seem to find any tutorial on how to do it. If someone could explain clearly I would appreciate a lot.
Maybe someone can recommend a great reservoir?

thanks a lot
 
The L30 works out of the box with 1/2" ID tubing...I run it in my rig.

I went ahead and bought 10ft of Tygon, but I also run a Video Block. I did have about 2 ft. left over. With you set-up, I would say 6-7ft. would be ok, but you would rather have too much than too little. I also use the plastic hose clamps, and Water Wetter.

I run the BayRes from DangerDen, so I can't help you with the inline question
 
The Ehiem will work fine with 1/2" tubing as well.

The inlet is 5/8", but tygon will stretch over the fitting just fine. I did fit 3/8" 1/16"wall tygon over that barb, so 1/2" will definately fit. I eventualy went to speedfits, since I didn't like how much that tubing was being stretched. Big tip for stretching tubes, use some dish soap on the barb first so lube it up, so that friction isn't as much of a concern. Don't slop the soap on it, just put a few drops on your fingertips and rub the soap onto the barb. One more tip for the 1250, remove the grey clamping rings from the barbs if your not going to use them, it will give you a bit more space to work your clamps. Don't use them unless you run thin wall tubing (not reccomended, thin walls kink easier)

I use the 1250 in my rig, very nice pump. You many wnat to consider buying some kid of vibration dampener though for any pump that size. I was given a link a while ago for a place that sold some for $15. For $15 they had better work, and when I got them, I found they worked so well I can't hear my pump at all.

My new coolant is 80% distilled water, 19% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, 1% idodine. At first it will look horrible, but in a few days it turns a nice crystal clear color.

Closed loops can be tough to deal with. Best bet is to use a fill/bleed system like the swiftech one, but to have a bay-res to attatch to that kit temporarily. This solves many of the coolant contamination issues I had using the open basin fill method, and is just overall safer to use around your PC since there is only one small hole it can leak from.

I use metal clamps myself. I am aware of cutting issues, but htose issues happen to tubes for two conditions 1)high pressures (doesnt happen in PC W/C) 2)overtightening. Just make sure you have it tight enough that it won't slide off and your fine.

For amount of tubing, just buy 15ft and work with that. I often buy 20ft and have about 6ft left when done. Miss-cuts and layout issues are common. I still mess up a few cuts each time, but have learned to cut the longest runs first, that way you can re-use the bad cut on the shorter parts. BTW get yourself a soft tubing cutter. USPlastics sells a nice one for about $5. A large gague single blade guillotine style cigar cutter could suffice as well. The cigar cutter may be easier to find, but would most likely be more costly.
 
I agree-- I use 1/2 tubing on my eheim, and it works just fine.. just need some sexy flexy tubing :p
 
thanks for the great reply(s) guys.
I checked a few review of different pumps and the via aqua 1300 is a good pump but it's a case heater. runs verrry hot compared to Hydor or Eheim about 15-18 degrees celsius hotter.

I'll go with Eheim or Hydor L30.
If I can't get Tygon tubing 1/2" ID , is Clearfex 1/2" a good alternative or even better?

PS: Does anyone knows how the D-Tek ProCore Heater Core are rated for heat dissipation (ex: rated for 790KCal per hour (3134BTU per hour) or 919Wh)

I might buy 2 , or 1 Black Ice Xtreme 2 (2x120mm fans)

thanks
 
This is site has some great data on radiator preformance.click. The ProCore will have the same preformance as the Big Mama radiator. Also I would recomend that you take a look at BeCoolings HC and shroud if you are going that route. The HC and Shroud is less expensive and the quality is much better.
 
if you use the stock inlet barb on the 1250, get tygon. If you get clerflex, get a 1/2" inlet barb for the 1250.

Reason for this is tygon has stiffer walls. Stifefr walls means less elasticity, so it's going to be far toughter to get it on the barb.
 
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