Plugged in my Antec 480 today and nothing....

R

Rob94hawk

2[H]4U
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Jul 20, 2002
Messages
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Today I started putting together my 1st pc and I bolted in the psu (antec 480 true blue), fan regulator and fans and tried to run the fans and nothing happened. The blue LEDs in the PSU didn't go on and it's fans didn't go on. What did I do wrong?

Will it only power up when everything is all hooked up to the mobo? Note: I didnt bolt the mobo up to the tray yet.

Please clue the idiot in on what I didn't do. Thanx
 
It must be plugged into the MOBO. there is a way to power up just the PSU, by jumping 2 wires, but I forget which 2 they are.
someone will probably be by soon and tell you which ones they are
 
14 and 15


It is 14 and 15, which is the 'switch'. You have to have something on it generating load though, or it won't start at all, or will just start cooking until it fries itself. Plug in a couple old hard drives or something. :p I end up doing this when I leaktest a watercooling setup, just run the pump and a couple hard drives off the powersupply with 14 and 15 shorted.
 
And if you don't want to count (or don't know which pin is 1 ;)) then it would be the green wire and any black wire
 
Thanx. Don't have any old drives. I'll just wait till I have the whole thing finished.
 
eastvillager said:
14 and 15


It is 14 and 15, which is the 'switch'. You have to have something on it generating load though, or it won't start at all, or will just start cooking until it fries itself. Plug in a couple old hard drives or something. :p I end up doing this when I leaktest a watercooling setup, just run the pump and a couple hard drives off the powersupply with 14 and 15 shorted.
Click to expand...

it would be pin 8 GRN wire PWR_ON signal
and any of the COM (Ground\common)
pins 3, 5, 7, 15, 17, 18, 20

for an ATX\ATX12V v1
 
If you look at the edge of the plug that faces towards the wires, you should see that each slot is numbered. they're tiny, but even with my crappy eyesight, i can see them.

Shot of the edge, you can just barely make out the numbers(I really need to learn how to use manual focus on this digital camera, lol).

plug2.jpg


with shorting jumper in place

plug1.jpg


Anyways, I end up doing this whenever I do any watercooling changes in my case, just so I can test for leaks without powering up anything besides the pump and a couple drives out of the potential leak path.
 
hmm, checking my waterchill manual, they say 13 and 14.

14 is the ps-on lead, and 13 and 15 are both common, so it'd work either way(13+14 or 14+15). That is for an ATX 12v form factor power supply.

pin 8 is pok (grey wire) on my antecs, not ps-on.

antec reference
 
ATX20.jpg

ATX - ATX12V v1

ATX24.jpg

ATX12V v2 & EPS12V

from the FAQ

both are pin 8
I incorrectly assigned the COM\GND to pins however :p
 
here is the write up from the Cool Cases FAQ (Power Supply forum didnt exist back then :p )

Power Supply: turning on an ATX supply that isn't connected to a motherboard
**disclaimer: power supplies are dangerous, they can shock you; do this at your own risk **

Find the ATX mobo plug, find the green wire, (should be only one, if there are multiple green wires... then your PSU sucks, i wouldn't go any further), and take a piece of a wire so that you can connect something, than find a ground wire (should be 6, these should be black), and connect the green wire to the black wire, basically by shoving the third piece of a wire you have into both of those two plugs

this is what the final product should look like:
powersupply2.jpg


or, ghetto paper clip style,
powersupply.jpg

then plug in/turn on powersupply and you should be set. You can also wire up a switch so you don't have to reach to the back of the power supply to turn it on & off.

VH also has a decent writeup on using a switch and adding a status LED
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/guides/atx_psu_mods/index.shtml
 
FLECOM, you might want to ammend that FAQ to include a resitive load
(if its not somewhere in it already) many PSUs require a resistive load to switch on

gee said:
That PPAC test jig is far from a proper piece of test equipment; it will only tell you if the power supply is putting out voltage, and chances are it only works on half the power supplies out there.

That jig just has a voltage-indicating LED and a resistive load. All power supplies have a minimum loading requirement, but wether that load has to be put on the 3.3V, 5V or 12V rail varies from supply to supply; chances are this is why the Antec is "failing" on this test jig..
Click to expand...

I remember the first time I had the GRN > BLK trick (without a resistive load)
fail on me, of course it was when I was trying to show a tech friend how to do it :p

generally the load need to be applied to either the 5V or 12V (most PSUs having the 3.3V and 5V combined) so a HDD will typically do ;)

gee mentions an Antec above, that happens to be one of the supplies (in the True Power Series) that has dedicated rails for both 3.3V, 5V & 12V and is likely the reason the resitive load failed with the PCP&C tester

with the latest rendition of the EPS12V and ATX12V v2 specs, I'll be interested in seeing which rail or rails (up to 4 +12V) require a resistive load to start the PSU
 
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