Modded for usability: The log

[kronchev]

OK I have the thread in the gallery going on...which I might get cleaned up since theres 20 versions of pictures on it. Anyway Ill put them in order here, explain the changes in each place and how I did them (if thats even needed), and I'll add explanations and plans to this thread from now on.


The original:

http://tsrtechnologies.com/parts/cases/lianli/pc601.jpg

Lian Li PC601


I bought this case off my friend for 100...he got it for 50...his dad bought him one for xmas and accidently got 2, a black and silver one, so he sold the silver one to my friend for 50, then i bought it for 100... ah well. There you see it in all its aluminum glory. I like this case, its got the removable tray, the cool front, the ports in the front (which i havent even used due to inside space), and just the right number of bays (although i wouldve been ok with just one 3.5, 2 is better than 3).

The first edition mod: Put a blowhole in. I got this computer with the intent of making it watercooled, with the rad in the top.

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/rigside.jpg

the fan is all thats been done to it, that was a spare fan I had lying around.

Later on though when I got my wc system in and installed I realized that the crappy fan wouldnt cut it, so I bought the aluminum 120 mm fan from compusa. while that seems dumb since compusa is so overpriced, taking shipping into account from any place online, it was actually the same price to go 10 minutes away and just buy it. so I did.

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/case.jpg

About this time I saw |(illbee's (where is that fucker anyway) li-li where he put black bays in a silver case. I liked it so much, i stole my friends extra bays

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/caseblack.jpg

You can also see I vinyl dyed my drive bay. you can see it sucks. i dont know why but the top just wont not get ripped up even when im not moving a whole lot of stuff around in the bays.

soon after I added a second evercool fan, and while the case was apart, i decided what the heck, some handles

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/case3.jpg

still not all black bays, they hadnt come in yet

inside view of the case

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/casein.jpg

thats with a maze4 block, hydor l20, and the single fan heatercore that dangerden sells.

soon after the bays did come in:

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/case4_34ths.jpg

also you cant see in that pic but the heatercore has been replaced by a bonneville core, which is longer and nearly as wide as the single fan radiator

heres a pic of the old wc system, out of order but the directory shows up as being created later for some reason

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/WC/side.jpg

thats when I had a 9600 video card too. also notice the battery plugging up the t-line

later on at a computer show i bought a lian li brand temp monitor for the 3.5 bay

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/newest/P1010131.JPG

annnnd heres the newest

http://www.spatula-city.us/computers/window/P1010308.JPG

lets see. bulgin power switch that also displays the access to the SCSI main drive...window that will not be a clear window, aka there will be mesh covering it. crystalfontz 634 serial LCD that i got from my friend, i built it in his computer but he never used it. i got a new monitor too

color scheme i'm trying to get:

black accents on silver body. info displays are blue. power indicator is white. access lights are red.

planned:

* black on white graphical LCD: i have it, but i have no -12v generator. im trying to get my friend to build one but hes dragging his feet

* outside-of-case accessable t-line valve. possibly in the side? in the back? in the top? i dont know!

* change the colors on the damn lian li temp monitor. green does not belong! it must be blue!'

* change the power LED to white. not hard, but i dont even have the power switch soldered, so i need to get off my ass.

 

[FLECOM]

you can get -12 from your psu, on the ATX connector

or get one of these

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=200&item=DC-32&type=store

it will give you -19... with a nice pot that should be fine for contrast

 

[kronchev]

you can get -12 from your psu, on the ATX connector

or get one of these

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=200&item=DC-32&type=store

it will give you -19... with a nice pot that should be fine for contrast

im really nervous about tapping into the ATX connector, but that little PSU is *exactly* what I needed, thanks fle

 

[FLECOM]

np dude

ive used those on a pair of larger graphical panels and they work just fine...

tapping into the ATX connector is actually pretty easy, just find the right color, and your done...

but the little converter is a less "permanent" solution if you should ever want to remove the LCD or replace your psu etc...

also make sure to read the spec sheet... it needs some caps and resistors to function properly... the resistors should be placed on whatever lines your not using, and the caps are mostly for filtering, but are still nessicary

 

[kronchev]

np dude

ive used those on a pair of larger graphical panels and they work just fine...

tapping into the ATX connector is actually pretty easy, just find the right color, and your done...

but the little converter is a less "permanent" solution if you should ever want to remove the LCD or replace your psu etc...

also make sure to read the spec sheet... it needs some caps and resistors to function properly... the resistors should be placed on whatever lines your not using, and the caps are mostly for filtering, but are still nessicary

ok so i just put the caps and reses when it says, and pull the -19 (on a pot for contrast) and ground off onto the contrast for the LCD?

 

[FLECOM]

yes, dont put a load resistor on the -19v line to ground obviously, just the lines you dont use

the ground is common, so ya that isnt a problem... and then put a pot (i would say like a 10K? maybe 5k?) between the -19v output and the contrast line of your LCD