GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor

why does HDR1000 dimming the whole screen?Cant turn that off

Local Dimming
I don't use it anymore. It's completely useless on this monitor once you know the problem it causes. The zones dim too readily, dimming entire scenes constantly, drastically reducing contrast within each zone itself, making scenes darker than they should be with a subdued, veiled, washed out look especially to scenes in the mid to low-ish luminance range. Only a very bright scene keeps the zones undimmed. Zones that are dimmed are only really good for showing pure black but they are used to show everything from mid bright to 0. Don't use it.

LD being so bad it's not usable means using HDR content instead of SDR content has no benefit other than color depth.

DCR
DCR is basically dynamic brightness control and produces deeper blacks than local dimming. Dark scenes make the screen go darker, bright scenes make it go brighter up to what the brightness setting is. DCR doesn't make normal scenes too dark like LD does and doesn't cause that washed out look I mentioned earlier. Its downside is that you don't get highlights in scenes that are majority dark even with the brightness maxed. I still prefer DCR over LD. It is best paired with a brightness setting of 100 with which (unlike without DCR) blacks are still good and you need at least 75 to get enough highlight pop in average lit scenes. Cranking the brightness doesn't have as much of an effect in average lit scenes as it does without DCR. When a majority bright scene comes up which can include certain menu / load screens or whatever, it's blinding because DCR then no longer reduces the backlight.

Find the sweet spot
LCD tech has limited dynamic range. The LD implementation sucks and DCR isn't a perfect solution either. You may be better off simply finding the brightness setting's sweet spot between acceptable blacks and acceptable highlights. It does depend on how much ambient light there is and your preference but a brightness of 28-30 is a good compromise. Beyond 30 dark scenes really start to look more washed out. Anything over 35 will begin to wash out almost any scene as the light starts to bleed into everything.

Make a 4k pure black image in Paint, open it with the Windows built-in 'Photos' app and press F11 for fullscreen. Disable local dimming and DCR if you haven't already. Set the brightness to 0 and start increasing it to see just how much that raises the black levels. The effect on black depth of going from 0 to 15 is huge already.

Sweet spot method vs DCR
In practical terms, the difference between simply setting the brightness to 28 vs using DCR is that the latter lets you run a much higher brightness which gets used in bright scenes only so you don't mess up the black depth in other scenes. In return, you give up having highlights in dark scenes and dark scenes can be displayed darker than the creator intended.

After testing I ditched DCR (and LD both) and just use a brightness setting of 28. For Dead Space (2023) with so many dark scenes 20 seems to be the sweet spot. I even lowered it to 10 for a brief section that's in almost complete darkness. DCR reduces the backlight too much in semi dark scenes just to get the best possible blacks, making semi dark scenes dull / low contrast and difficult to see in.
 
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Wag Does it seem to randomly drop the signal during use too or does it only happen when you turn it on / wake it up from sleep? Mine turned off at what at first glance would seem to be random times but it turned out it was the Spotify website. See attached pic. It was fixed after disabling HDCP via registry and rebooting. This issue may not be limited to just Spotify and Nvidia as it could indicate the monitor doesn't follow the (expected version of the) standard. IIRC there are two different methods of HDCP handshake, I forgot the specifics. If it fails you aren't allowed to watch protected content, and... poof, off it goes.

My 2nd suggestion would be to swap the cable. My 3rd would be to try to use CRU or the driver control panel to create a mode that does work properly, with slightly different numbers for timings etc. I would also stick with 120Hz for a while to see if it only happens at 144Hz. After all, a visual artifact that occurred at 144Hz was fixed in a firmware update and we don't know what kind of workaround was applied.

I changed Displayports on my GPU and it seems better now for some reason. Occasionally it will refuse to display an input but for the most part it's working.

I don't think it's the cable because it's a high quality braided cable that worked fine with my 2080Ti.
 
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For what it's worth, I don't recall ever having turned mine on more than once to get it to display the signal from my 3080. When my PC is cold booted it does take a while before it picks up the signal. Longer than my 27" secondary monitor.

As far as the cable goes it's not the wiring but the solidness of contact at either end that I was thinking about. But it sounds like it's only having trouble waking up at times. A bad connection would drop the signal while in use.
 
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I changed Displayports on my GPU and it seems better now for some reason. Occasionally it will refuse to display an input but for the most part it's working.

I don't think it's the cable because it's a high quality braided cable that worked fine with my 2080Ti.

It could definitely be the cable and it doesn't cost much to get another one. I had the same problem with a "Brand Name" high quality HDMI 2.0 cable back in the days that will lost signal once in a while at 4K@60 and I have had problem with "brand Name" HDMI 2.1 cable that will not properly do 4K@120.
 
It could definitely be the cable and it doesn't cost much to get another one. I had the same problem with a "Brand Name" high quality HDMI 2.0 cable back in the days that will lost signal once in a while at 4K@60 and I have had problem with "brand Name" HDMI 2.1 cable that will not properly do 4K@120.
If I see another 10’ DisplayPort cable for not too much I’ll pick it up. I also have a 25ft fiber HDMI cable I have yet to try with my 7900xtx to my Vizio. Interested to see if I can get 120Hz/VRR working with it,
 
Well, this monitor just does not play nice with my 7900xtx at all- it's not like it was great with my 2080ti but this is just ridiculous. Every time I start my PC I have to turn off and on the monitor in windows hoping it will get a picture. As for sleep mode, forget it. I'm lucky to ever get the monitor out of sleep mode without physically unplugging the power.

Getting frustrated now- probably a combination of AMD drivers and the fact the display needs a firmware update.

I also have plenty of dead pixels now, not even 2yrs in.
 
Well, this monitor just does not play nice with my 7900xtx at all- it's not like it was great with my 2080ti but this is just ridiculous. Every time I start my PC I have to turn off and on the monitor in windows hoping it will get a picture. As for sleep mode, forget it. I'm lucky to ever get the monitor out of sleep mode without physically unplugging the power.

Getting frustrated now- probably a combination of AMD drivers and the fact the display needs a firmware update.

I also have plenty of dead pixels now, not even 2yrs in.
did you DDU all Nvidia Files?
Maybe you take a look into the Windows Device Manager and check the part "monitor" and delete all you find (+ the hidden ones)
Then load the Windows driver from the Aorus Site and install it.

I think you are also on the latest Firmware F07?
 
did you DDU all Nvidia Files?
Maybe you take a look into the Windows Device Manager and check the part "monitor" and delete all you find (+ the hidden ones)
Then load the Windows driver from the Aorus Site and install it.

I think you are also on the latest Firmware F07?
Yes, everything wiped and updated. Still doesn't work quite right.
 
Do you see the same issues over hdmi? I would take 120hz over all the issues you are describing.
 
Do you see the same issues over hdmi? I would take 120hz over all the issues you are describing.

I haven't tried HDMI- I'd rather just turn on and off the monitor.

I think I'm going to be replacing it sooner rather than later. Maybe within a year or so- just waiting for the newer OLEDs.
 
Well, it died completely this morning. No inputs at all are working, can’t even get a menu in the screen, it just sort of blanks out and comes back. I tried the DisplayPort with both onboard gpu and 7900xtx, nothing. I tried USB C from my motherboard (has TB4 graphics out). Nothing. Tried multiple HDMI inputs with every device I had, Fire stick, PS4, etc etc. Nothing. Unplugged from the wall a zillion times. Nothing.

POS. Over a year old so no warranty coverage. My first and last Gigabyte monitor.

I’ll call them tomorrow but I doubt they’ll offer much help. Cost prohibitive to ship it back for repair, I’m disabled anyways so I can’t do it (not without a lot of help).

I can’t really afford anything else at the moment. I just invested in my first new build in a decade and am on a fixed income. Eh. Maybe I’ll find something super cheap next month. For now no Starfield for a while.

Edit- Holy shit this display has some major issues. After trying to get it working all day I wondered what would happen if I changed the refresh rate of the FV43U in Windows 11 from a secondary display (TV)- I did, and after a few more changes! Viola! Picture returns!

Well, I will totally disable sleep mode in Windows and hopefully it won't happen again. The weird thing is it didn't even work with HDMI devices (and I'm not about to try again). Let's see what happens when I turn off monitor...

Edit2- Turned off PC for a while, came back to it, monitor doing the same thing- needed to turn off multiple times and then adjust primary and secondary displays to get picture back. Seems display is not long for this world.
 
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this also happening without second display or have you used it only for changing?
 
this also happening without second display or have you used it only for changing?
Yes, was happening with no other display connected. No devices worked with it at all over any inputs. The only way to get a picture is by connecting a second device to my pc and changing the refresh rate. Otherwise nothing else works. Now I just get a black screen on boot and hopefully turning on and off the display works but otherwise, nothing.

Display is definitely broken.
 
using HDMI?I noticed in one Firmware that HDMI 2.1 doesnt work completly.
I had to disable the HDMI 2.1 feature in the monitor settings
 
using HDMI?I noticed in one Firmware that HDMI 2.1 doesnt work completly.
I had to disable the HDMI 2.1 feature in the monitor settings
Nah. I just spoke to Gigabyte tech support. It’s completely dead now and out of warranty. Not worth shipping back (even if I could). I paid $600 for it not much more than. a year ago.

Edit- spoke to Gigabyte Customer Support- they extended the warranty on this model to 3yrs so it’s still covered. Still not sure how I’m going to ship it back. I posted before I am physically disabled and I can’t get it to the car myself, let alone getting it off the desk and boxing it up (I don’t have the original box anymore.)

Debating whether it’s even worth bothering- will cost at least $150-$200 to ship back after I buy the box, insure and everything. Boston area to CA.

Wondering what people think?
 
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Sign up for a free Pirate Ship account and check the shipping rates on there. Most likely will be a massive discount vs. paying retail rates. You'd still have to get it boxed up, but that should help greatly on the cost.
 
Nah. I just spoke to Gigabyte tech support. It’s completely dead now and out of warranty. Not worth shipping back (even if I could). I paid $600 for it not much more than. a year ago.

Edit- spoke to Gigabyte Customer Support- they extended the warranty on this model to 3yrs so it’s still covered. Still not sure how I’m going to ship it back. I posted before I am physically disabled and I can’t get it to the car myself, let alone getting it off the desk and boxing it up (I don’t have the original box anymore.)

Debating whether it’s even worth bothering- will cost at least $150-$200 to ship back after I buy the box, insure and everything. Boston area to CA.

Wondering what people think?

Forget it and move on.
 
It appears the FV43U has a serious design flaw. I am not the only one dealing with the exact same problem right now- the monitor gets stuck in sleep mode (even with the latest F07 firmware), and you have to turn on/off, unplug a million times to get the picture back. I don't want to pay to ship it back to get another and then develop the exact same problem.

Do not buy this display.
 
It appears the FV43U has a serious design flaw. I am not the only one dealing with the exact same problem right now- the monitor gets stuck in sleep mode (even with the latest F07 firmware), and you have to turn on/off, unplug a million times to get the picture back. I don't want to pay to ship it back to get another and then develop the exact same problem.

Do not buy this display.
To be fair if it was a design flaw, every single one would have this issue. I have never had any such issue with it. And I've had it for more than two years.
 
To be fair if it was a design flaw, every single one would have this issue. I have never had any such issue with it. And I've had it for more than two years.

Well, a lot of people are experiencing it- if you google "FV43U stuck in sleep" you'll find a lot of posts. I suspect that's why they extended the warranty from 1 to 3yrs. It could be just specific batches of the monitor has this problems.

I'll send it back once- it will cost me approx $80 even with the discount.
 
Well, a lot of people are experiencing it- if you google "FV43U stuck in sleep" you'll find a lot of posts. I suspect that's why they extended the warranty from 1 to 3yrs. It could be just specific batches of the monitor has this problems.

I'll send it back once- it will cost me approx $80 even with the discount.

Try a different cable first if you haven't already.
 
Came here looking for info on firmware version F07. Didn't find any, instead I see a bunch of people very confused about what they're looking at.

It's really simple. What you're looking at here is simply VA dark smearing due to slow pixel response for dark transitions. The reason it gets worse above 100Hz is you're already displaying the next image 1000ms/100Hz=10ms later. At 144Hz that's 6.9ms. Dark transitions on a VA panel, especially a large one like this take longer than that. When a bright point is moved onto the location of a dark pixel, you are asking the dark pixel to switch out of being dark. This takes a while, hence the bright part appears to darken. If you keep moving the mouse, this process repeats so the bright part looks darkened until you stop. Only when the image is static you stop asking the pixels to switch again half way through the process of switching and the monitor gets multiple frames worth of time to finish its dark pixel transitions. Even slower than dark-to-bright transitions are deep dark to slighly less deeply dark transitions. It takes 25ms for the FV43U to switch a pixel from 0 luminance to 20% luminance. Slow dark transitions (and brightness flicker with variable refresh rate) is the widely known, primary price you pay for the deeper dark tones of VA compared to IPS. At 120+ Hz in the "right" game with e.g. a lot of grass and foliage it can be perceived as flicker: so many midtones and highlights are darkened due to dark pixels not brightening fast enough that you perceive the whole scene to be darker in motion, it then suddenly brightens back up when you stop the mouse.

Things that worsen dark smearing:
- Using a high refresh rate, especially 120 and higher.
- enabling "super resolution" in the OSD (Big factor - I still use it a lot, but not in every game)
- increasing the sharpening in the OSD
....because sharpening increases micro contrast, enhancing edges by making dark tones darker
- Lowering Black Equalizer below its default setting of 10, doing so darkens darks. (I still often use 9, makes games look better; you have to find a nice balance.)
- Selecting an overdrive setting too low for the current Hz (the PQ setting is best up to 90, Balanced for 100+)


Weird description of black smearing, no wonder people got confused.


What these have in common is dark tones right next to bright ones.

When I use g-sync I cap the fps at 110 to keep the refresh rate under 120 which is where I personally start to notice the dark smearing more. A large VA panel tends to have slower pixel transitions than a smaller one, but every VA panel does this. If you can't get 110 fps in a game, then cap the fps to whatever value you can consistently reach to avoid the brightness flicker caused by high frametime variance: the variation in the amount of milliseconds it takes for each frame to be rendered. Then, match your overdrive setting to that fps cap.

Its pixel performance sweet spot is at 110Hz imo, with overdrive set to Balanced. The lower you go below 100 you get more and more overshoot (bright edges next to moving objects). Overshoot gets bad below 85 ish, and lowering the overdrive a notch to Picture Quality only helps a little bit. This narrow Hz band that it performs well in (90-110) is my main gripe with this monitor. It's often impossible to get 90 fps at 4k. This is why having a hardware g-sync module inside a monitor is so important, for the variable overdrive that automatically adjusts the overdrive voltages to the current refresh rate. Not that that would help the black smearing much at high Hz (there is a limit to what overdrive can do to make dark transitions faster on VA) but it would have made the panel usable at refresh rates below 85-90, without the crazy overshoot that we now get.
That was a great response thank you. However, the same thing is happening at an OLED panel I now have only slightly reduced.

I'm so perplexed that this is not discussed more as at anything above ~100HZ the pixel stutter/smearing appears no matter the panel significantly taking away from the smoother experience of high HZ.
 
Mine is going in the trash. It no longer turns without going to a black screen. Unfortunately it will cost me over $100 to ship back (even with the discounted shippers like pirate ship) and then if I get it back and still have problems I have to pay to ship both ways.

I just purchased a 42 C3 OLED Open Box from w/5yr geek squad for $850 out the door.

Feel like I threw almost $700 in the trash, Never purchasing another gigabyte product again.
 
Mine is going in the trash. It no longer turns without going to a black screen. Unfortunately it will cost me over $100 to ship back (even with the discounted shippers like pirate ship) and then if I get it back and still have problems I have to pay to ship both ways.

I just purchased a 42 C3 OLED Open Box from w/5yr geek squad for $850 out the door.

Feel like I threw almost $700 in the trash, Never purchasing another gigabyte product again.
I'm not sure It's a Gigabyte problem. I believe It's the same old AOE iirc brand panel that all brands use from Asus to Acer to whoever else made a 43" VA. Same manufacturer. This was when mini led and oled was just coming out also. I tried all 3 tech and liked the mini led the most. Some like oled, and some like the VA because it was cheaper and one of the first panels to do 144hz in 43 size. It was a tricky time to buy a monitor. Either way I have had nothing but good luck with Gigabyte for almost 20 years and bad luck with Asus for example. Luck of the draw I guess. Just be sure you are happy with your 2nd purchase because I didn't like the oled because of the aggressive dimming and exchanged it for a mini led qn90b just saying in case noone else mentions these things to you.
 
Mine is going in the trash. It no longer turns without going to a black screen. Unfortunately it will cost me over $100 to ship back (even with the discounted shippers like pirate ship) and then if I get it back and still have problems I have to pay to ship both ways.

I just purchased a 42 C3 OLED Open Box from w/5yr geek squad for $850 out the door.

Feel like I threw almost $700 in the trash, Never purchasing another gigabyte product again.
I couldn’t be happier with my 42” C2 as a gaming display.. I’ll probably upgrade to a C3 48” and rotate the 42 to the guest room or something down the road.
 
I'm not sure It's a Gigabyte problem. I believe It's the same old AOE iirc brand panel that all brands use from Asus to Acer to whoever else made a 43" VA. Same manufacturer. This was when mini led and oled was just coming out also. I tried all 3 tech and liked the mini led the most. Some like oled, and some like the VA because it was cheaper and one of the first panels to do 144hz in 43 size. It was a tricky time to buy a monitor. Either way I have had nothing but good luck with Gigabyte for almost 20 years and bad luck with Asus for example. Luck of the draw I guess. Just be sure you are happy with your 2nd purchase because I didn't like the oled because of the aggressive dimming and exchanged it for a mini led qn90b just saying in case noone else mentions these things to you.
I haven’t used it much but I’ve done what I could to mitiagate the burn in and dimming. As an every day display and a light gaming monitor it should do me fine, and I have the Geeksquad coverage if/when it does burn in.

I have more of an issue with Gigabyte’s warranty coverage- they know full well not many people are going to pay >$100 to ship a large item back (and a fragile one like a large monitor) . Then even if it gets there in one piece I have to hope whatever I get back doesn’t have any problems or I’ll have to pay to ship both ways.
 
It's sad they didn't include a proper manual equalizer because the speakers are pretty good but every audio mode is kinda messed up in my opinion.
 
Mine is going in the trash. It no longer turns without going to a black screen. Unfortunately it will cost me over $100 to ship back (even with the discounted shippers like pirate ship) and then if I get it back and still have problems I have to pay to ship both ways.

I just purchased a 42 C3 OLED Open Box from w/5yr geek squad for $850 out the door.

Feel like I threw almost $700 in the trash, Never purchasing another gigabyte product again.
Same thing just happened to my FV43U. No picture not even OSD 😢 I've contacted Gigabyte.
 
You people are scaring me.
Mine is still going strong. And I have never turned it off for years. I bought a 27" HDR 1000 VA mini led monitor boasting 576 local dimming zones to compare. I went back to my FV43U. Can't beat that size for sheer emersion. Although the mini led was brighter, it was not by much. I will keep this FV43U until it dies on me.
 
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Mine is still going strong. And I have never turned it off for years. I bought a 27" HDR 1000 VA mini led monitor boasting 576 local dimming zones to compare. I went back to my FV43U. Can't beat that size for sheer emersion. Although the mini led was brighter, it was not by much. I will keep this FV43U until it dies on me.
Mine was going strong for 2.5 years and last night I turned on my PC and no picture. Looking around it is quite common so I would sell yours while you still can.
 
Mine was going strong for 2.5 years and last night I turned on my PC and no picture. Looking around it is quite common so I would sell yours while you still can.
Never. I will use it to death. I have yet to see a monitor in it's size with HDR 1000 or better at the price of the FV43U. Until then, I'm keeping it.
 
I like mine enough that I will try a capacitor replacement if/when it fails with a power problem.
 
Never. I will use it to death. I have yet to see a monitor in it's size with HDR 1000 or better at the price of the FV43U. Until then, I'm keeping it.
Easy: 43QN90C.

I like mine enough that I will try a capacitor replacement if/when it fails with a power problem.
I'm up for a repair job but no idea where to start.
 
You can easily spot bulbed capacitors.
The monitor powers on detects input as the light turns white, panel turns on but no picture just a dark grey screen no OSD either.

Tried different cables and computers so its definitely the monitor.
 
I still have it sitting here because it's a hassle to get it to the corner, and I have to spend an extra $45 to dump it. I'm tempted to crack it open and replace the main circuit board (I've seen it for $50 on ebay) but I honestly don't think it's worth the effort.

The LG C3 is so far away a better display I wouldn't go back to using it even if I fixed it.
 
I had the best experience with Gigabyte RMA they had the monitor repaired with a new panel and back to me in 48 hours.

I jumped the gun though and already replaced it so anyone wants to buy an FV43U in the UK :LOL:
 
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