Search results

MM uses the Asus probe, you know.

What's your price range?

Hot air rises, but heat will be equally distributed throughout the base (or at least the part above the core), regardless of height. This is because the hotter regions of the base are still a solid, and cannot rise due to differences in density. [Edit] What I was describing was a heatsink...

If the fan is blowing air towards the heatsink, the air first makes contact with the coolest parts of the heatsink, moving onto the center of the block afterwards. This is technically the most efficient flow, since convection depends on the temperature differential. If you have the air being...

And the more you blow in, the more will exit. It's all the same. At least with intake, it'll blow directly over his components.

Having it blow over your motherboard is probably a better idea. That way it'll avoid letting the air get stale, and increase turbulence, which I think would improve the convection. Correct me if I'm wrong, though.

Good call. Thanks.

How hard is it to dust your PSU's insides without killing yourself?

Thanks a load.

If I've proven that my RAM runs perfectly at 250MHz, but I want to push my CPU further, is it unsafe to downclock it to 200MHz in one step when I'm switching to 5:4? What about pushing it back up to 250 from 200 if I'm unhappy with the results? I've heard the rule of thumb about incrementing...

That would be a completely useless mod; heatspreaders barely do anything as is. Don't worry about it. If you have decent case ventilation, that should be more than enough.

Do NOT spread it out before placing the heatsink on the chip. The reason they tell you to apply a tiny glob and then squash it with the heatsink is so that air bubbles are minimized, thereby improving heat transfer. Just place a small drop on the very center, place your heatsink directly...

Alright, I cleaned the old stuff off, applied some Antec Silver using the "rice grain" method, and reinstalled the heatsink. At idle, I'm getting about 1-2 degrees lower, and at load, around 6-7, so I'm pretty satisfied. I also ripped off the fan hole covers machined into my case with a set of...

I'm using a Zalman passive aluminum heatsink on mine, attached using the included thermal adhesive. So far I've been able to get my FSB to 250 on my 2.4C at 1:1, so it seems like it's doing its job pretty well. You might want to look into it...

After owning this computer for about a year and a half, I decided to overclock the processor. Before I go on, here are my system specs: Abit IC7 w/ Zalman silent northbridge heatsink Intel Pentium 4 2.4C w/ Zalman CNPS7000A-AlCu Kingston ValueRAM (C3) DDR400 - 2 x 512mb (dual channel mode)...

I'd go for a Zalman 400 watt power supply. They have very high efficiency and they are most likely the quietest power supplies you're going to find.

I have a pair of Sony SS-950's that are giving me trouble when I plug them into my amp. Now, I realize I can't exactly expect speakers this old to work perfectly, but I was wondering if anyone could help me identify the problem. After a certain amount of time, one of the channels becomes...

Your kitchen stove top actually gets much hotter than you might think. Many in fact do get hot enough to melt aluminum. The reasons you probably hadn't noticed how hot it gets is because you've never touched it at full output, or you've always had some water/food sitting in the pot you were...

Well the problem is that I'm looking to own a gig of RAM, and I already have a 512 stick of this stuff, so splurging on the Corsair would cost a hell of a lot more. How much extra performance are we talking here?

I really can't tell what the difference is. Can anyone give me some pointers? I'm playing mp3s in foobar2000 with the 48khz resampler on, and I really can't differentiate between that and normal playback.

So for my needs, it's perfect? I don't really care about squeezing every last drop of performance juice out of my CPU; I just want a noticeable - and free - performance increase.

Yeah I'm not sure what went wrong, but it's working now. Must have been the buggy game.

So I guess you're saying the RAM should easily support a 250mhz FSB at a 5:4 divider. What I'm wondering is if there's that large a difference in performance between 5:4 and 1:1.

So if you exclude that shower head from the setup, you notice a large difference? I'd think that the water would evaporate either way, though it wouldn't look as cool.

When I try playing music in Windows Media Player while running Counter-Strike, the game's sound won't show up. It seems unlikely that this would be the card's fault, since I was able to do this with my onboard Realtek chip.

I have a stick of CL3 PC3200 KVR, which I've been able to tweak from it's factory settings of 3-4-4-8 down to 2.5-3-3-5. If I got another stick that would in all likelihood be able to do the same, would I be able to easily push my FSB to 250mhz in 5:4 mode? I'm using an ABIT IC7 and a P2.4C...

Should I bother getting that new one with the attachable silent fan? I've seen tests where it helped quite a bit, and knowing Zalman, the fan's noise won't bother me.

I've finally isolated the last of the loud components in my PC, the HSF attached to my 9600 Pro. I removed the fan from the heatsink for about a minute when the system was in idle, and my PC was just about silent, with a mild whisper coming from my PSU and CPU fans. This also brought light...

I don't have the most incredible setup imagineable; all I've got are some Monsoon MM-1000's, so I probably won't notice the difference. Is there anyone here that has a genuine high fidelity sound system that can tell me they're bothered by the resampling with absolute confidence, or is this...

In what ways is this faulty resampling audibly noticeable? I'm having trouble finding fault in it.

Is the resampling job done by the Audigy 2 ZS better when converting from 44.1 to 96 though?

So why on earth do people even bother using the 48khz mode? Just for compatibility with CDs and what not?

What sort of effect would using the 96khz mode have on the audio?

I generally don't like to use anything that colors the audio, so most of that I already turned off. I'm kinda pissed off about having to use that damn Creative volume control instead of the standard Windows version, since you can't really make any quick changes to the volume. Is there any way...

Does anyone know if there exists a way to disable the 48khz resampling, or if there's even an audible difference when it's done? Just curious since I just bought the card, though it's not too late to return it.

Exactly how important is having good memory for a simple 250mhz FSB running at a 5:4 divider? Is Kingston Value RAM absolutely worthless?

Oh, and what kind of performance gains do you get by putting your page file on a separate drive? I was thinking about buying a second hard drive too.

Alright, I've been planning to make some changes to my system for a while, but with my Western Digital's recent death, I decided that now might be a good time to go ahead with the upgrade. Firstly, I want to replace the noisy stock HSF on my Radeon 9600 Pro with something heftier, like a...