Time and tide wait for no man...
Thanks for your work on the project guys - I really think you redefined an entire segment with the thoughtful design and responsible management after launch. So many people have had a good time with it. Can't wait to see what you guys can come up with next...
I've just used copious amounts of IPA in the past. You'll definitely get that dark grey "oxidised" remnant that you can already see on your block, but it doesn't seem to affect temperatures when being used again.
The only way to truly get it clean is to sand it down with a mild abrasive...
It's mounted with 3M dual lock tape - Sorry for the uber delayed reply!
Noise & Temperatures: Absolutely. There's so much excess heat capacity it makes water cooling a bit boring.
Pros: It's quiet, reliable, unobtrusive.
Cons: You need a good control scheme because the wiring and power is...
Thanks! :geek:
That's a Bitspower mini water tank ultra! I've wanted to use one of these since I saw my first water cooled loop.
Filling/draining loops is always a difficult in a small case. The quick disconnects at the back are a godsend - I just use a dropper and top up from the back with...
Probably just move on... :( There's not enough clearance or thickness for a proper repair;
1. Helicoil would be the standard for a stripped component like this that you can't tap
2. Small barrel nut like this would work if you had surrounding clearance
3. Sex nut and barrel bolt combo if you...
I've always wondered how those fans are. They're definitely overlooked in SFF builds where that extra 5mm should improve fan performance.
Is the tophat config better for temps?
Loving that loop! The Barrow block for the card looks great (y). Are you happy with the quality?
Those are incredible temperatures for an asshat config and the Apogee fit is perfect.
BTW - I'm not certain, but I think your hose clamps need to be opened up so they sit all the way towards the...
That Asus AIO is great! I paid almost as much for my Aquacomputer CPU block with its teeny tiny "vision" display a few years back. Are you planning on leaving the sides open for now?
Solid clean build as always (y) The M1 has great access, but the Ghost is so simple to build in. It's lovely.
That's an interesting choice of radiator. I never knew there was an option with an integrated res. Not having it fixed in place will make bleeding the system so much easier.
Are you...
rfarmer This is still running a 6600K and a 1080, both with a small OC. The AC/DC gets warmer than the DC/DC unit.
Nanook Thanks!
obs Go for it. I find hard tubing easier in some ways. particularly for smaller bends, which suits the SFF formfactor. I did the cables myself - I only got magic...
Finally got this guy built up!
Having done the Ncase M1 and been happy with everything maybe aside from the noise at full load, this Ghost build is based on an external 480 radiator.
Temps are just silly. Delta's are in the 2-3 degree range with fans at 1000rpm.
Most components were just...
M3 screws of many lengths can be bought from hobby supply shops. Usually in aluminium which is very easy to shorten if required.
These guys based in your neck of the woods would be great. :)
At some stage I'd like to emulate Faggan's build and do acrylic everything actually. As soon as I saw the original project I had the same idea as it was as close to the HG PAI as I could get without heavy fabrication.
- I still have no idea how he made the sliding profile for the side panel. I...
Hmmmm I'm hoping to use that space for a pump. :whistle:
There space on the floor, but I'd rather have a fan to actively ventilate the case. I guess consider a new motherboard with dual M.2?:cry:
Nice build - If that's your first attempt then you really killed it! Good job (y)
That external pump/res is an awesome find. There will be a lot of M1 owners who find that very very useful.
You'll be fine - microbes still need some nutrients to survive after all. You could run the loop for an extended period without issue.
- However, using an anti-corrosion additive would still be required. The biocide is actually overkill.
Just pull the screw out and measure it up as below.
I think you're looking at one of the "G"screws in the list that Smitty2k1 linked. Should be M3 x 1 x 5
Plus you an buy pre-bent glass tubing if you need it. The smoothness of these bends would go some way to reducing build up from using more fittings.
(Don't stress the build up though - it's not a big issue)
The arctic white maybe? It was ditched as the suppliers couldn't produce a finish that didn't cause interference with the side panel/gable interface.
Not surprising for that area - probably only ceramization could solve that issue, but not at an appropriate price.
That's a nice upgrade from your original system!
Which version of Prime 95 are you using?
- versions after 26.6 are not useful in testing as the load far exceeds what is reasonable.
I haven't played with the 8086k so take my observations with a grain of salt. But, 5GHz @ 1.4v is very high...
I was so so keen to try it out but I trust what you're doing - It's a shame though because if I had to put a percentage on the aesthetic component of water cooling joy it would be 60%.
Would you do it again though?
It might seem like an obvious question, but I've seen build up using Mayhems...
:cry: Easy does it - the screws and threading on all water cooling components are just to squeeze the o-ring enough to create a seal. They shouldn't be loose, but really they're not far off.
As soon as you see that o-ring flatten out, it's time to stop.
Perhaps you know already - but the...
Just for ease of viewing:
I'm skeptical of a passive radiator - despite dondan testing this. Sorry Dan!
However, the front intake guarantees fresh non circulated air with low noise as a full thickness fan is used.
If this was a concept for a purely windowed case then I'm more positive it...
There was an interesting write up about the differences in blade profile compared to the old GT's. Actually the performance is incredibly close too... Whoever engineered the GT did a great job!
I guess there really isn't any downside to playing a looping soundtrack overnight - it kinda makes sense that the mechanical components might change slightly from brand new.
You could try the 545LC on the rear part of the frame - I actually think you'd get decent results despite its small size.
edit: Oops! I misread your post. AIO CPU would be easy as above. GPU AIO would be fairly difficult. Without a side panel to mount the radiator you're limited to either the...
Not strictly M1 related, but I just got my /u/90n1ne keyboard cable. Can't rate him highly enough! Not only was he cheaper than the others, but turnaround was blazing fast. It's just a cable but damn do I love it...
THIS!!! I feel like the original trilogy was far more edgy back in the day. If you could blend in a little blade runner (the remake) vibe then it would actually be pretty badass. Deadpool level would be a bit much though.
Astro A50 for me - I've got the previous gen and the battery life is only OK. But the sound and most importantly the connection is super rock solid.
Mic is clear and loud. The mix-amp feature that lets you selectively dial down other people's mic is perfect though.
They're bass heavy and the...
Should be very straight forward to do:
RC car ball stud. These come in many sizes and are easy to purchase in hobby shops or online. Just choose one that fits the plastic retention clips on the frame.
Some micro sized stand offs. Source these from Aliexpress or ebay. These are 12mm x 22mm for...