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it'll ask you what you want to clone, then will reboot your system for you and start back up in a DOS mode to do its thing.

Download the free trial of Acronis: http://www.acronis.com/en-us/personal/pc-backup/ Then clone your existing harddrive to another. Works like a damned charm!

I have an 960t that I have unlocked to 6 cores (essentially the same as your cpu) and overclocked to 3.5ghz/core. I'm using a Zalman 9700cu with no issues. In fact, the warmest it gets is around 58c under load. My .02

Pics? Need to verify if it's a surface damage, or multilayer damage. If only surface damage, Plugwash's advice is sufficient. If the screwdriver gouged through the top layer and damaged layers beneath, you might not be able to repair.

depending on the harddrive it is, go to the manufacturer's website and download whatever diagnostic tools they may have. Essentially you want to find out the 'health' of your drive. Also while it's running, it would be a good idea to make an image of your drive, and also backup any important...

One is a cloning software (1:1 copy), the other is a backup. I'm assuming the cloning software allows you to select one drive and clone it to another, whereas the backup will ask you what files you want backed up, and where you want them saved. Good question, and I agree it's confusing...

easy... get an external enclosure to put your new ssd in, plug it in through USB, download/install this software: http://www.easeus.com/disk-copy/ Then clone your mechanical drive to your SSD. When it's finished, you take the mechanical out, and install your SSD in its place. I've done this...

payment sent for 750gb Momentus XT drive. Thanks buddy!

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you can always try for a 960t chip as well. It's a native quad-core, which can be unlocked to a 6 core chip. I have one and love it.

Do you even know what 'bait and switch' means? By definition, Newegg would have to advertise said D-link switch, then when you try to buy they would tell you it's unavailable and start pressuring you into a higher priced/different product. A revision change is not bait and switch. If that...

the reason the price went up on your drive was because of Newegg's inventory monitoring software. I've seen it happen before on other items. The more webhits a product gets, after a certain period of time the software will automatically raise the price of it. It's happened with me while...

reset your BIOS and try again...

absolutely. You should at least do the 1st two. Blow that case out with an air compressor. Then take off the heatsink and remove the old thermal paste with Isopropyl Alcohol. Reapply new paste (size of a grain of rice) and reinstall heatsink. You'll probably be amazed at the change

have you reapplied thermal paste?(size of a grain of rice) Have you cleaned the dust/dirt out? Have you ensured you have proper airflow (from front of case to the rear of the case)?

do coretemp and speedfan show the same temps as a triple core?

If you are running it as X4, your temps are not accurate, period! (They tend to be about 20 degrees too high)

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Couldn't find anything still for sale through a search. I guess I should be specific that I am looking for ATI/AMD cards only. Thanks anyways!

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Hi all, Looking for something better than a Radeon 5770 for my son. Looking to spend around $70 shipped. We just went the Ebay route and found a Sapphire 6790 for $58, but I've been fighting it for a couple days and have come to the conclusion it is faulty. Currently in the process of...

^ Fanboi much?

pm regarding one of these: $45/ea Shipped - (4) Reference ATI 5770

+1... go for it!

Sorry, but the Phenom II didn't have the TLB bug the original Phenom had, so it was far from the 'dog' you claim. Please take a step away from the Intel high-horse and just leave the argument be. I would expect more tact from an Editor.

I have that same router, but no switch.... My setup - ISP > Cable Modem > Router > all 4 computers in the house run wirelessly, two desktops and two laptops... Also have a Kindle Fire HD and Roku player connected wirelessly as well. Not sure why you have a switch in the mix unless you...

well, I came in to read about the 8150, but instead saw 4 pages that were overtaken by a couple of assholes. Thanks for the waste of my time... (you know who you are)

^^ Gawd, here we go again with the AMD vs Intel bullshit!

Definitely keep the voltage OFF auto... if it lowered you an additional 5c, would that put you about 32c idle on the CPU core? If so, that's about normal. I'd leave it there and roll with that.

I'm thinking once you reapply the paste, life will be good again. I would also not worry about disabling Cool-n-Quiet. I've always ran it and love how it throttles the CPU when I don't need the extra 'oomph'. Post back once you've reapplied the grease, I'm curious to see the results.

I'm not necessarily in that 'mindset'. The mindset I have is doubling the chance of losing data because you are now relying on two drives instead of one. Ideally a RAID 0/1, or RAID 5 or RAID 6, but then you're talking some serious cash!

no redundancy...

I would say it's the most you would want to do with an OEM system and stock cooling.

I was able to OC to 4.0ghz on stock voltage/stock heatsink. Temps were around 50c full load. I would imagine 4.5 would be doable with the right cooler.

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I'm calling YOU a noob son. Making this statement alone doesn't give you much validation. We know the Athlon II doesn't have l3 cache, but that may cost what, 3 to 5% performance of a Phenom II? Besides, being an ex Brisbane owner myself, I know the Athlon II will be a pretty fair upgrade...

Can't say I totally agree with this trolling noob... :rolleyes: I've built several systems with the Athlon II... a couple of X4's, a few X2's... regardless, they overclock like beasts and are quite snappy once you get to the 3.5ghz realm. I would also suggest an X4 like others have...

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