Recent content by Strat_84

As soon as the LED is blinking orrange, that means a fault is detected and power supply is shut down. So yes, there won't be any anode voltage, that makes sense. And BTW trying to measure anode voltage is stupidly risky, do you realize it normaly is of several TENs of KILOVOLTS ?

Ah, people and their flyback fancies ... :wacky: Blinking orange means there's a fault, period. The blinking frequency can give a clue, so does reading the error log in Windas. The issue can be anywhere, and flyback failures may be less than 10% of them.

I do not remember exactly how it is called but it's the first choice in windas' procedure list. It's not a safety report, but a failure log. The monitor doesn't have to be powered on to access it. Checking 220V ? With a multimeter, as simple as that. Power the monitor on and measure voltage...

I checked your previous posts and found your video about the original problem. Does it still do the same, with that spark gap SG901 enabling continuously several times before the monitor going down ? That's a symptom for high voltage overvoltage, but it doesn't mean necessarily the flyback is...

Not too sure about what you're meaning, but according to your description, my best bet is that's the digital area by area convergence setting that has a problem on your screen, as opposed to the basic convergence parameters.(horizontal global, and vertical top/center/bottom). Before breaking...

I have a pair of Sun GDM5410, the casing is made of a mix of light grey and purple parts.

Nope. As I said previously, even if swapping flybacks between different models were a good idea, the service manuals show the flybacks aren't pin compatible between the FW900/G500 gen and the G520 gen. There might be some hope with your screen but well, there sure is quite an investigation to...

Good luck "replacing" the AR coating on a P275 or a P1130: it is a metallic coating deposited directly on the glass of the tube. It must be the same for Mitsubishi tubes as far as I know. Only the Sony tubes from the early 2000's and before feature a stuck plastic coating.

This is a big NO. The circuit schematic inside the flyback is different between the service manual of the G520 and the one of the FW900, they're not pin compatible. Also, I think someone reported using another flyback with success in the past and the patch-up job was holding but this is a...

Weird story. The front glass is very thick and if a CRT tube had to break, it would be in the neck area, and it wouldn't happen on its own.

Well, first things first, you have to check the cables are properly set in, and if it doesn't solve the problem, check the continuity of the tracks. As for the sources, there's one i bought on ebay, but the ones linking the N board/D board are Molex ref 98268-0331, with a few extra tracks cut...

If you read everything, you certainely noticed that in my case, the issue came from a faulty flat cable. One of the two linking the N board and the D board.

Lesson One: Never edit manually a file when you have no clue about the values you're messing with. And on the top of that it doesn't allow to do things that can't be done properly another way. You can try the "restore" function in the color menu after heating for 30 minutes. If it doesn't...

Absolutely no idea. These were all second hand monitors and I don't think there was an operation duration counter on any of them. But absolutely all the used diamondtron I've seen had sharpness problems in the corners.

The funny thing is that I ditched four 22" based on diamondtron tubes a few years ago because they all got unfixable blur problems in the corners with aging. I hope for the bidders they are lucky and their unit is fine regarding that aspect, but I wouldn't count on it.