NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Sorry for any typos I'm on mobile

Ek supremacy Evo on cpu
Ek thermosphere on gpu
Xspc 90 degree rotary adapter g 1/4
Monsoon compression fittings g 1/4
Swiftech mcp35x
Alphacool laing ddc top
Alphacool nexxos st30
Adamantium reservoir from frozenq
Primochill tubing, 10 feet was plenty for my novice skills
 
Kypore said:
Do you know how the temps are compared to the NH-C14 or the NH-U9B SE2
Click to expand...

There's no benchmark that I know of that compares the two but unless there's something terribly wrong with the design, the cooling ability usually scales according to the mass of the heatsink minus the fan, which you can look up yourself.
 
cowsgomoo said:
There's no benchmark that I know of that compares the two but unless there's something terribly wrong with the design, the cooling ability usually scales according to the mass of the heatsink minus the fan, which you can look up yourself.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I just looked it up and the Scythe Kabuto 2 is 730g without fans and the NH-C14 is 700g. Sorry if this seems like something I should have known this is going to be my first build.
 
Kypore said:
Thanks, I just looked it up and the Scythe Kabuto 2 is 730g without fans and the NH-C14 is 700g. Sorry if this seems like something I should have known this is going to be my first build.
Click to expand...

I looked it up again and I think it's 695g with fan, ~580g without. The NH-C14 is heavier and allows two fans, so it's likely to cool better. But the downside is that th Noctua prevents you from using the HDD cage. Both has the advantage of being really close to the side panel to minimize recycling of hot air. The Scythe's advantage is that it has a centralized overhanging profile, while the Noctua juts out at one end, in this case into the HDD cage area.
 
Thanks for the advice. Just ordered the NH-C14 off amazon last part I needed for my build too.
 
I want to thank WiSK for helping me find a solution to my connection problem.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...able_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

Exactly what i needed, control all PWM fans and use a sata plug (not molex)

I've managed to put 6 fans in my Ncase.

5x 120 mm :

- 2x Noiseblocker eLOOP B12-P (800-2000 rpm pana la ~ 77 CFM ~ 28 dB/a ) - 1 for cpu / 1 for PSU
- 1x Noiseblocker Multiframe M12-P (1000-2000 rpm ~ 43 - 78 CFM ~ 12-30 dB/a ) - 1 for cpu from the side
- 2x Bitfenix Specter (3 pin - connected separatly, think will change them in the future with more eLOOPs.) - both for the video card

And 1x de 92 mm as exhaust.
- Noiseblocker PE-P (500-1800 rpm ~ 9 - 38 CFM ~ 3-20 dB/a)

Now i have airflow.
Temperatures dropped very nicely all around and also quiet.

http://i.imgur.com/63a9dyN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kpVYXbA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/83NRWot.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PNvt7pb.jpg
 
Hello Chris,

Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design and our Kelvin liquid coolers. We are working to bring them to the various markets as quickly as possible while still maintaining outstanding build quality. While they are not yet available in the US, you can always check our facebook page and our website for the most up to date information.

Best Regards,
Click to expand...

I was bored and decided to e-mail Fractal a while back. Honestly forgot about it and I got a response just now. Maybe we shouldn't account the Fractal Kelvin out of the US market because of patent/copyright yet, but certainly not anytime soon.
 
I was having heat problems with my GPU. It was basically stuck at 80C all the time and throttling itself to keep from going higher. I have the MSI GTX770 with the blower style cooler. Since I couldn't seem to bring the temps down, I decided to go with water cooling. I got myself an Alphacool full cover block and a Glacer 240L. After installation my GPU temps were down in the 40s!

5 days later, the pump died! I was extra careful to flush the system before I built it because I heard that there were pump problems possibly caused by gunk left over in the radiator. I did see a lot of stuff come out while flushing it, but it still died in less than a week! I noticed that there was some kind of residue on the inside of the tubing that came with it.

I contacted Amazon for a replacement, and they got one right out to me. This time, I also ordered my own tubing, translucent blue. It is up an running again and I must say, the translucent tubing made it easier to bleed the air out because I could see a lot of bubbles in there even after I would have thought they were all gone. Let's just hope that this replacement pump lasts.

oh and here's a picture mid-build. I'll post the finished product later
INS0dJYl.jpg
 
Last edited:
I finally pulled my thumbs out of my ass and got to work with all the watercooling stuff I bought along with the case, so I now have my 780 Ti and delidded 4770K all cooled by the H220.
Happy with not having to hear the wooshing from the titan cooler, I was very disappointed to hear a horrible coil whine when starting up Star Citizen.
I know coil whine is normal when running games at very high frames per second, but the whine I'm experiencing now is most prominent when running at low fps. Idling in Star Citizen at 50fps, my computer sounds like a really really angry fly.

Does anyone have a clue why switching to the EK block for my gpu could have caused this?
 
xinux said:
Does anyone have a clue why switching to the EK block for my gpu could have caused this?
Click to expand...

Coil whine is simply some coil that is vibrating. Maybe one or some of the coils are pressing against the metal of the waterblock. If you can somehow identify which one(s), you can maybe try a piece of thermal pad to dampen it.

Try to contact EKWB support for suggestions in case anyone else has had similar issues.
 
As promised, pictures of the finished build. This time the pictures won't monkey with the page formatting, thanks to vips excellent advice.

some people have complained that the pump, or power supply is loud. They must have some really quiet rooms and super silent computers overall, because I don't think they are that loud.

this is my solution for putting 2 SSDs in the optical drive slot:
JwYDacjl.jpg


some views of the inside. cable management is messy, but oh well:D
njqK0Btl.jpg

IvyvtUEl.jpg

thFvafzl.jpg

5N8C2hSl.jpg
 
Last edited:
I realize people are still waiting to receive their orders from the second run but has there been any news on the possibility of a third run? I'm extremely interested in getting my hands on one of these
 
Yanger said:
I realize people are still waiting to receive their orders from the second run but has there been any news on the possibility of a third run? I'm extremely interested in getting my hands on one of these
Click to expand...
I believe Necere said that there probably wouldn't be a third run for a while.
And even if there was a third run, the soonest you would be able to get one is next year.

Your best bet is trying to buy it from someone else.
 
Graphics card cooling question time! I've got a 6950 twin frozr iii with one broken fan (it was crap and then I broke it) and it was running at about 99 degrees before I "fixed" it.

I've removed the fan shroud and temperatures are down to a maximum of about 94 degrees - what's my best option for getting them lower? I've got a H105 cooling the cpu, and will probably be using the 6950 for the rest of its natural life.

I've got one nf-s12a at the moment, the second is being delivered with the psu when scan get them in stock. The plan was to have those two in the bottom of the case under the gpu. I'd like to keep this kind of configuration if possible because I think it looks cool, so what'll work around that, fit in the case, and keep the card running at a reasonable temperature without breaking the bank? Bonus points if it'll transfer to another gpu in future.

This is the halfway-built shot, the fan has since moved to the front of the case and the rear gpu fan is the surviving one - http://i.imgur.com/Tu1OVew.jpg. Some of the arctic cooling accelero things look alright, but also pretty large. Help from the masters please? :)

edit: I've got about thiiiiiis much space above the card http://i.imgur.com/du0MRiQ.jpg, without the rad+pump in the way. Slightly regretting not being patient enough for the FD Kelvin S24 now... but my water skills are weak and it'd be a lot of cooling for something I run at pretty much stock clocks.
 
Last edited:
whiteface said:
Graphics card cooling question time! I've got a 6950 twin frozr iii with one broken fan (it was crap and then I broke it) and it was running at about 99 degrees before I "fixed" it.

I've removed the fan shroud and temperatures are down to a maximum of about 94 degrees - what's my best option for getting them lower? I've got a H105 cooling the cpu, and will probably be using the 6950 for the rest of its natural life.

I've got one nf-s12a at the moment, the second is being delivered with the psu when scan get them in stock. The plan was to have those two in the bottom of the case under the gpu. I'd like to keep this kind of configuration if possible because I think it looks cool, so what'll work around that, fit in the case, and keep the card running at a reasonable temperature without breaking the bank? Bonus points if it'll transfer to another gpu in future.

This is the halfway-built shot, the fan has since moved to the front of the case and the rear gpu fan is the surviving one - http://i.imgur.com/Tu1OVew.jpg. Some of the arctic cooling accelero things look alright, but also pretty large. Help from the masters please? :)

edit: I've got about thiiiiiis much space above the card http://i.imgur.com/du0MRiQ.jpg, without the rad+pump in the way. Slightly regretting not being patient enough for the FD Kelvin S24 now... but my water skills are weak and it'd be a lot of cooling for something I run at pretty much stock clocks.
Click to expand...

Firstly I would get fans with better static pressure like the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 20mm Twin Pack.
Then I'd get something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/x2-Motherbo...Adapter-Cable-Wire-Wire-318-002-/121419583860 or http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19933/cab-1521/Mini_4-Pin_GPU_to_2_x_4-Pin_PWM_Fan_Adapter.html
Then power the two fans with the GPU pin and adjust the fan profile with MSI Afterburner. This allows the fans to be extremely quiet during idle.
P.S. I'm doing the same thing with SP120L fans stolen from my H80i. It's extremely quiet at idle and ramps up when the GPU gets hot.
 
Last edited:
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
The H105 has SP120L fans, which google tells me are basically SP120 fans that run up to 2700rpm instead of 2350 - could I run the S12As as an intake on the back of the radiator where static pressure shouldn't be important (as it's to do with air pressure behind the fan if I'm understanding correctly) and use the now spare SP120s as GPU coolers successfully? Would it be worth trying to bodge a duct in place so that 2x120s worth of air actually goes through the heatsink?

One of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321122344060 and the selection of pwm splitters/cables I've got spare should sort me out hopefully - thanks for the tip on these, I was not aware it was a thing. Glad I don't have to butcher the one from the gpu :)

edit: now I see your edit :p I'll move the fans around when they and the PSU arrive (within a week hopefully, come on Scan! :D) - got any action shots?
 
Last edited:
whiteface said:
Would it be worth trying to bodge a duct in place so that 2x120s worth of air actually goes through the heatsink?
Click to expand...

I sort of did something like that. First I elevated my fans with extra long fan screws (20mm) and four layers of fan silencers (7mm+2mm+2mm+2mm). This serves to move my fan closer to the heatsink. Next, as you have noticed, the heatsink's width is for 80mm fan, 120mm fans placed over it will cause wasted airflow. So I duct-taped the exit of the fans to roughly the width of the GPU, so that all the air going out the fans goes through the heatsink.
The problem is whether this method is worth the effort and money? If you don't think it is, maybe upgrade to the GTX970 reference when it comes out or try some other innovative method. :)
 
Frazhna said:
some people have complained that the pump, or power supply is loud. They must have some really quiet rooms and super silent computers overall, because I don't think they are that loud.
Click to expand...
I can't say about the PSU (I have the semi-passive 300W, and I haven't installed the GTX670 yet to test it at full blast) but AIO pump noise is VERY variable. When I first installed my H75, I was really surprised by just how loud the flow noise was, and was seriously considering switching to air. After changing CPUs (from a low-end Pentium to a 3570k, so it wasn't a drop in heat load) and re-installing the cooler, the flow noise is not even audible. With no way to bleed the system, I suspect that pump orientation and hose path play a big role in how loud the pump sounds.
 
Proper bleeding is crucial to pump noise, as is the pump rotational speed. I have mine (H220) on a steady 2100rpm (1200-3000rpm range) which is the quietest setting. Bleeding it properly will eliminate the bubbles causing the frizzing sound and lower the noise considerably.
 
I believe that the first page says the boat with the container containing all of the cases arrives tomorrow. I'm pretty sure they will be busy getting the cases moved. From there they will need to label and ship all of them. I don't expect anything to ship tomorrow and never did.

I imagine there won't be much posting on here about it because he will be busy trying to send out the cases. Be patient, they will be here soon enough.
 
hshot_rooke said:
Hey guys, so is the Panasonic UJ-265 pretty much the only option for blu-ray drive?
Click to expand...

There's that, the pricey TEAC, the LG CA40N, a Pioneer XU03 (drive not sold seperately), a couple Dells, an HP, and the Streamcom ST-OB3.

I'm guessing a few of those are probably just UJ-265 rebrands (I know the Silverstone one is).


My 265 works very nicely, but wow.. it's loud as hell.
 
AFD said:
There's that, the pricey TEAC, the LG CA40N, a Pioneer XU03 (drive not sold seperately), a couple Dells, an HP, and the Streamcom ST-OB3.

I'm guessing a few of those are probably just UJ-265 rebrands (I know the Silverstone one is).


My 265 works very nicely, but wow.. it's loud as hell.
Click to expand...
Thanks AFD, yeah I saw a review on amazon and now you've confirmed that it's really loud. Does it bother you when you're watching BluRays?

The 265 seems to be sold on amazon, ebay so readily available. Anyone else using another BD drive that is readily available?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top