What RAD is this? 10 Years - RADs leaking - Best distilled water additive for copper and Chrome-Plated copper?

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Tanquen

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I have always used distilled water and copper blocks with PT Nuke and a Silver Kill Coil Strip.

I could not get a plane copper block for the RTX4090. What is the best additive for a distilled water, copper CPU and RADs with a Chrome-plated copper?

I assume the RADs are copper as one has a small leak on two sides that I can see.

Can anyone tell what brand they are? I can't see the logo and it was too long ago.

I was not wanting to redo the loop but it seems the radiators need to be replaced.

I was kind of wanting to replace the 12 DC fans with pwm fans but they work.

1683045093675.png
1683045105326.png
 
Tanquen said:
I have always used distilled water and copper blocks with PT Nuke and a Silver Kill Coil Strip.

I could not get a plane copper block for the RTX4090. What is the best additive for a distilled water, copper CPU and RADs with a Chrome-plated copper?

I assume the RADs are copper as one has a small leak on two sides that I can see.

Can anyone tell what brand they are? I can't see the logo and it was too long ago.

I was not wanting to redo the loop but it seems the radiators need to be replaced.

I was kind of wanting to replace the 12 DC fans with pwm fans but they work.

View attachment 567817View attachment 567818
Click to expand...
Can't give a guess as to what rad that may be until you pull it out. Will be easy to tell if its copper cored, brass or aluminum once you take the fittings off (most likely brass) and peek inside. I've never seen a rad leak like that :(
What kind of pt-nuke were you using? The clear pt-nuke phn or the blue pt-nuke cu (copper sulphate)? If you were using the phn and still have some, that's still the best additive for straight distilled. The blue stuff, i wouldn't mess with. It doesn't play well with copper loops, or a lot of other metals (causes corrosion). That might explain the leaks. EK specifically voids warranties if it's used in their gear. Also stains copper blocks a blueish tint iirc.
I would clean and rinse the surviving rad, CPU block and fittings with CLR. To get whatever gunk has built up out of it before you expose your new GPU block.
GL! And be sure to post some pics of that leaky rads ports.
 
I’m pretty sure the RADs are copper and were pricey. The mineral-like growth looks like copper.

I was using the blue pt-nuke cu and thought it was ok for copper. It's been so long and my memory is going. I mostly relied on the Silver Kill Coil Strip and don't think I've used the pt-nuke cu more than once or twice over ten years. I never saw anything growing.

I'm thinking of just getting new RADs, Corsair Hydro X Series XR7 360mm. I tried checking my email to see where I got them and what brand but I don't think it matters if pt-nuke cu should not have been used. The older CPU and GPU blocks were copper and changed color.

This is from the pt-nuke cu or the Silver Kill Coil? If the Silver Kill Coil is reall .999 silver then it should be ok for a distilled water, copper CPU block and RADs with a Chrome-plated copper GPU block?

1683051590556.png
 
In general the fewer ions you have floating around your loop the better, so ditch PT Nuke and the kill coil. They could actually promote corrosion rather than prevent it.

DIY coolants are really rather difficult to pull off right.

Straight distillled water will have too much of a surface tension, not enough of a corrosion inhibitor and not enough of a growth inhibitor to make for a good coolant.

I was really interested in mixing my own, but as soon as you start researching it it gets complicated in a hurry.

For instance, there is no such thing as a general corrosion inhibitor. You use different chemicals based on te particular metal you want to inhibit the corrosion in, and it is different for copper, for brass, and for nickel. Yo may have to add multiple different corrosion inhibitors, but then they can interact with each other, or one of them could interact with rubber seals, or plexiglass or the tubing plasticizer, etc. etc.

Automotive antifreeze really isn't a good match for the composition of a PC water cooling loop as it is optimized for things you might find in a car, which are going to be different. A car will have more other junk in there which will require inhibitors that you don't need in a PC water loop, which in turn could have side effects on things in your loop that aren't generally in cars

Then there is also the fact that pure distilled water has among the best heat transfers of any liquid, and the more junk you add to it, the less efficient it will be at conducting heat.

So the key is to start with a distilled water base, and add enough stuff to break down surface tension, inhibit corrosion and prevent growth, but only just the chemicals you need and only just enough to do the job, as the more you add the more of a deleterious effect you could have.

This is why I have come to the conclusion that fluid composition is best left to the pros.

Buy a pre-formulated coolant. Preferably a simple one without colorants or sparkly/shimmery floaters which can and will gunk up block microchannels.

When I first got into water cooling, EK's nickel plating problems were relatively recent memory, and both my blocks were nickel plated EK blocks, so I decided to play it safe. I figured if EK tests their systems with anything, it's probably with their own coolants, so that's what I'll use. I first got their old "Ekoolant", and later their "Cryofuel" when the Ekoolant was discontinued. (still not sure if it was actually a new formulation or if it was just new branding) but the result has been fabulous. I've run the same fluid for 2-3 years at a time and all of my supposedly sensitive EK nickel plated blocks have come out looking perfect.

Because of this I would recommend Cryofuel. A little 100ml bottle of concentrate (which mixes with 900ml of distilled water to make a liter of coolant) is only about $10. I have a huge loop with a huge reservoir, so I usually use three bottles of clear and one bottle of blue just to give it a small amount of color so it is easier to see.
 
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A bit of a correction, I don't think the copper blocks you are seeing are chrome plated. They are nickel plated.
Zarathustra[H] said:
In general the fewer ions you have floating around your loop the better, so ditch PT Nuke and the kill coil. They could actually promote corrosion rather than prevent it.

DIY coolants are really rather difficult to pull off right.

Straight diatillled water will have too much of a surface tension, not enough of a corrosion inhibitor and not enough of a growth inhibitor to make for a good coolant.

I was really interested in mixing my own, but as soon as you start researching it it gets complicated in a hurry.

For instance, there is no such thing as a general corrosion inhibitor. You use different chemicals based on te particular metal you want to inhivit the corrosion in, and it is different for copper, for brass, and for nickel. Yo may have to add multiple different corrosion inhibitors, but then they can interact with each other, or one of them could interact with rubber seals, or plexiglass or the tubing plasticizer, etc. etc.

Automotive antifreeze really isn't a good match for the composition of a PC water cooling loop as it is optimized for things you might find in a car, which are going to be different. A car will have more other junk in there which will require inhibitors that you don't need in a PC water loop, which ik turn could have side effects on things in your loop that aren't generally in cars

Then there is also the fact that pure distilled water has among the best heat transfers of any liquid, and the more junk you add to it, the less efficient it will be at conducting heat.

So the key is to start with a distilled water base, and add enough stuff to break down surface tension, inhivit corrosion and prevent growth, but only just the chemicals you need and only just enough to do the job, as the more you add the more of a deleterious effect you could have.

This is why I have come to the conclusion that fluid composition is best left to the pros.

Buy a pre-formulated coolant. Preferably a simple one without colorants or sparkly/shimmery floaters which can and will gunk up block microchannels.

When I first got into water cooling, EK's nickel plating problems were relatively recent memory, and both my blocks were nickel plated EK blocks, so I decided to play it safe. I figured if EK tests their systems with anything, it's probably with their own coolants, so that's what I'll use. I first got their old "Ekoolant", and later their "Cryo fuel" when the Ekoolant was discontinued (still not sure if it was actually a new formulation or if it was just new branding) but the result had veeb fabulous. I've run the same fluid for 2-3 years at a time and all of my supposedly sensitive EK nickel plated blocks have come out looking perfect.

Because of this I would recommend Cryofuel. A little 100ml bottle of concentrate (which mixes with 900ml of distilled water to make a liter of coolant) is only about $10. I have a huge loop with a huge reservoir, so I usually use three bottles of clear and one bottle of blue just to give it a small amount of color so it is easier to see.
Click to expand...
I'm with you. I've been water cooling for the better part of 20 years and I have always used pre-mixed coolants. Specifically I've had great luck with Koolance LIQ-702BU-B 702 Liquid Coolant. I've used that in my Exos 2.5 units which are over ten years old and are still working to this day. I've used these for close to 200 motherboard reviews and even some GPU testing. One of those units belonged to Kyle at one point and that unit is even older than the one I bought. I've also used EK's Cryofuel now for two years and I haven't had any issues with that so far either.
 
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Zarathustra[H] said:
In general the fewer ions you have floating around your loop the better, so ditch PT Nuke and the kill coil. They could actually promote corrosion rather than prevent it.

DIY coolants are really rather difficult to pull off right.

Straight diatillled water will have too much of a surface tension, not enough of a corrosion inhibitor and not enough of a growth inhibitor to make for a good coolant.

I was really interested in mixing my own, but as soon as you start researching it it gets complicated in a hurry.

For instance, there is no such thing as a general corrosion inhibitor. You use different chemicals based on te particular metal you want to inhivit the corrosion in, and it is different for copper, for brass, and for nickel. Yo may have to add multiple different corrosion inhibitors, but then they can interact with each other, or one of them could interact with rubber seals, or plexiglass or the tubing plasticizer, etc. etc.

Automotive antifreeze really isn't a good match for the composition of a PC water cooling loop as it is optimized for things you might find in a car, which are going to be different. A car will have more other junk in there which will require inhibitors that you don't need in a PC water loop, which ik turn could have side effects on things in your loop that aren't generally in cars

Then there is also the fact that pure distilled water has among the best heat transfers of any liquid, and the more junk you add to it, the less efficient it will be at conducting heat.

So the key is to start with a distilled water base, and add enough stuff to break down surface tension, inhivit corrosion and prevent growth, but only just the chemicals you need and only just enough to do the job, as the more you add the more of a deleterious effect you could have.

This is why I have come to the conclusion that fluid composition is best left to the pros.

Buy a pre-formulated coolant. Preferably a simple one without colorants or sparkly/shimmery floaters which can and will gunk up block microchannels.

When I first got into water cooling, EK's nickel plating problems were relatively recent memory, and both my blocks were nickel plated EK blocks, so I decided to play it safe. I figured if EK tests their systems with anything, it's probably with their own coolants, so that's what I'll use. I first got their old "Ekoolant", and later their "Cryo fuel" when the Ekoolant was discontinued (still not sure if it was actually a new formulation or if it was just new branding) but the result had veeb fabulous. I've run the same fluid for 2-3 years at a time and all of my supposedly sensitive EK nickel plated blocks have come out looking perfect.

Because of this I would recommend Cryofuel. A little 100ml bottle of concentrate (which mixes with 900ml of distilled water to make a liter of coolant) is only about $10. I have a huge loop with a huge reservoir, so I usually use three bottles of clear and one bottle of blue just to give it a small amount of color so it is easier to see.
Click to expand...
Cryofuel for sure. I love this stuff. I haven't had any problems for years. My loop is always super clean. I buy the premixed big bottle and done.
 
Dan_D said:
A bit of a correction, I don't think the copper blocks you are seeing are chrome plated. They are nickel plated.

I'm with you. I've been water cooling for the better part of 20 years and I have always used pre-mixed coolants. Specifically I've had great luck with Koolance LIQ-702BU-B 702 Liquid Coolant. I've used that in my Exos 2.5 units which are over ten years old and are still working to this day. I've used these for close to 200 motherboard reviews and even some GPU testing. One of those units belonged to Kyle at one point and that unit is even older than the one I bought. I've also used EK's Cryofuel now for two years and I haven't had any issues with that so far either.
Click to expand...

So EK's Cryofuel is the best way to go? It would be ok with copper, Chrome-plated copper and cheap whatever (brass) plated Barb Fittings? I did see some just brass fittings and was thinking about getting them.

The new GPU block makes a big deal about being Chrome-plated copper.
Chrome-plated copper
The cooler is made entirely of chrome-plated copper. A chrome plating is much harder than a nickel plating and therefore less sensitive to acids, scratches and damage. It completely eliminates the risk of chipping nickel plating. Additionally, chrome plating looks much more homogeneous and provides a shine that cannot be achieved by nickel plating. Chrome-plated coolers have previously only been used in the industrial sector in areas where extreme influences act on the coolers.
 
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Tanquen said:
So EK's Cryofuel is the best way to go? It would be ok with copper, Chrome-plated copper and cheap whatever (brass) plated Barb Fittings? I did see some just brass fittings and was thinking about getting them.

The new GPU block makes a big deal about being Chrome-plated copper.
Chrome-plated copper
The cooler is made entirely of chrome-plated copper. A chrome plating is much harder than a nickel plating and therefore less sensitive to acids, scratches and damage. It completely eliminates the risk of chipping nickel plating. Additionally, chrome plating looks much more homogeneous and provides a shine that cannot be achieved by nickel plating. Chrome-plated coolers have previously only been used in the industrial sector in areas where extreme influences act on the coolers.
Click to expand...
The premixed coolants are generally fine with all the metal types. Issues with corrosion occur when you mix metals. It could be aluminum or copper, or whatever as long as its all the same.
 
Tanquen said:
I’m pretty sure the RADs are copper and were pricey. The mineral-like growth looks like copper.

I was using the blue pt-nuke cu and thought it was ok for copper. It's been so long and my memory is going. I mostly relied on the Silver Kill Coil Strip and don't think I've used the pt-nuke cu more than once or twice over ten years. I never saw anything growing.

I'm thinking of just getting new RADs, Corsair Hydro X Series XR7 360mm. I tried checking my email to see where I got them and what brand but I don't think it matters if pt-nuke cu should not have been used. The older CPU and GPU blocks were copper and changed color.

This is from the pt-nuke cu or the Silver Kill Coil? If the Silver Kill Coil is reall .999 silver then it should be ok for a distilled water, copper CPU block and RADs with a Chrome-plated copper GPU block?

View attachment 567832
Click to expand...
Yep, that looks like the staining that pt-nuke cu does to pure copper blocks. It may not effect the cooling capacity of the block right away but it can slowly cause the brass/copper in rads, blocks and fittings to corrode. Im assuming that's your old block in the picture? Not your new 4090 block? Reason being is Alphacool has started chrome plating all of their blocks, including their latest 4090s. I figured when you said, chrome plated, that's what you were getting ready to add to your loop. If it is your new block you may be able to clean it up...maybe. :(
Pt-nuke phn is great stuff. I don't mix it with anything else and I make sure it's mixed with distilled properly (according to the directions) and it's been golden. I've still got a couple of gallons pre-mixed along with a half bottle stashed away. I have been using it problem free since Petra released it years ago (only running it in my back up rigs now). The problem is it hasn't been made for...7 or 8 years now at least. If all you have left if the pt-nuke cu I would definitely go with a quality pre-mix like the guys have suggested. I've been using Koolance stuff for a couple of years in my main rig with no problems.

Edit- Rads!

If you're looking at getting new rads and going with Corsair xr7s (solid, got one in my back up rig)go to performance-pcs.com and get these instead
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...l-series-360-xtreme-radiator-nlx360-f2pb.html
They're oos right now but it's worth the wait. These are what Corsair rebadges and calls xr7s. Same exact rad just cheaper.
If you don't want to wait for the LX to come back in stock go with a Hardwarelabs 360gtx if its cheaper than the xr7. Its the retail version of the LX.
 
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hititnquitit said:
Yep, that looks like the staining that pt-nuke cu does to pure copper blocks. It may not effect the cooling capacity of the block right away but it can slowly cause the brass/copper in rads, blocks and fittings to corrode. Im assuming that's your old block in the picture? Not your new 4090 block? Reason being is Alphacool has started chrome plating all of their blocks, including their latest 4090s. I figured when you said, chrome plated, that's what you were getting ready to add to your loop. If it is your new block you may be able to clean it up...maybe. :(
Pt-nuke phn is great stuff. I don't mix it with anything else and I make sure it's mixed with distilled properly (according to the directions) and it's been golden. I've still got a couple of gallons pre-mixed along with a half bottle stashed away. I have been using it problem free since Petra released it years ago (only running it in my back up rigs now). The problem is it hasn't been made for...7 or 8 years now at least. If all you have left if the pt-nuke cu I would definitely go with a quality pre-mix like the guys have suggested. I've been using Koolance stuff for a couple of years in my main rig with no problems.

Edit- Rads!

If you're looking at getting new rads and going with Corsair xr7s (solid, got one in my back up rig)go to performance-pcs.com and get these instead
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...l-series-360-xtreme-radiator-nlx360-f2pb.html
They're oos right now but it's worth the wait. These are what Corsair rebadges and calls xr7s. Same exact rad just cheaper.
If you don't want to wait for the LX to come back in stock go with a Hardwarelabs 360gtx if its cheaper than the xr7. Its the retail version of the LX.
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Yea, that is the old GPU block before I got the MSI RTX3080 2 years ago. I could not hear 3080 running and did not water cool it but the GIGABYTE RTX 4090 GAMING OC 24G, I know it's running.

So the new GPU block is Chrome-plated copper, the CPU block is Copper and the new Corsair xr7s (with the $14 expedited shipping) will be copper. I can't find any copper fittings, just cheap plating or brass.
Then use EK's Cryofuel because Pt-nuke phn is no longer sold? Then all should be well?
 
Tanquen said:
I can't find any copper fittings, just cheap plating or brass.
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its not usually used*, most are brass, even the plated ones. the "chrome" is usually nickel too. both are fine with copper rads, which usually have a brass thread anyways.
*too soft maybe?
 
Tanquen said:
Yea, that is the old GPU block before I got the MSI RTX3080 2 years ago. I could not hear 3080 running and did not water cool it but the GIGABYTE RTX 4090 GAMING OC 24G, I know it's running.

So the new GPU block is Chrome-plated copper, the CPU block is Copper and the new Corsair xr7s (with the $14 expedited shipping) will be copper. I can't find any copper fittings, just cheap plating or brass.
Then use EK's Cryofuel because Pt-nuke phn is no longer sold? Then all should be well?
Click to expand...
Yep that sounds like a solid plan. Pretty much all fittings are either, nickel plated brass, chrome plated brass or painted brass so just go with the most durable finish you prefer or the color you like. If you're using barbs and worm clamps you miiight be able to find stainless steel fittings but I haven't looked at barbs in a really long time. Most fittings will last forever with good coolant either way.

Yeah like pendragon1 said, copper is rarely if ever used for fittings anymore because it's so easy to strip out.
 
Tanquen said:
Ok, there are too many EK's Cryofuels, I want this one I guess.

EKWB EK-CryoFuel Clear Concentrate, 100ml, PC Liquid Coolant, Water Coolant​

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That one is great for keeping shipping costs down, just keep in mind that you will need to add 900ml of distilled water to the concentrate to make a liter of coolant.

EK also sells it as a premix, which does not require any dilution. It is exactly the same as the concentrate, just diluted in advance at the factory. it will usually cost a little more as you are essentially shipping a kg of water, but other than that, the end result is identical.


This is the premix:

https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Premix-Coolant-1000mL/dp/B07LB1M3K8/

I don't mindmixing, so I usually go with the concentrate, and just buy distilled water locally.
 
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Zarathustra[H] said:
That one is great for keeping shipping costs down, just keep in mind that you will need to add 900ml of distilled water to the concentrate to make a liter of coolant.

EK also sells it as a premix, which does not require any dilution. It is exactly the same as the concentrate, just diluted in advance at the factory. it will usually cost a little more as you are essentially shipping a kg of water, but other than that, the end result is identical.


This is the premix:

https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-CryoFuel-Premix-Coolant-1000mL/dp/B07LB1M3K8/

I don't mindmixing, so I usually go with the concentrate, and just buy distilled water locally.
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It pays the shop around. I got three of them for like $24 at Aquatuning. I could only find the clear tubing I've used in the past and it's way more expensive now. Almost $7 a foot.
 
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I've been running straight distilled and silver killcoil for the last 10 years and have not had a problem with corrosion or growth. I've only topped off with distilled when needed, it's probably been several years since I changed out the water.
 
Tsumi said:
I've been running straight distilled and silver killcoil for the last 10 years and have not had a problem with corrosion or growth. I've only topped off with distilled when needed, it's probably been several years since I changed out the water.
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I think I'd do that again but I don't have all copper blocks this time and even when it was just copper the RADs where eaten through and leaked. That was maybe because of the PT Nuke? I just don't want the Chrome on the GPU block or the Nickel on the CPU coming off in the loop. My understanding is I have to remove the kill coil and use an additive for bio and corrosion.
 
I've had chrome, nickel, and bare copper blocks and brass radiators. I don't think anyone made full copper radiators (only the fins were copper) until Alphacool started making their full copper radiators. Vast majority were brass liquid contact. Never had an issue and the brass fittings in my reservoir still look good.
 
Tsumi said:
I've had chrome, nickel, and bare copper blocks and brass radiators. I don't think anyone made full copper radiators (only the fins were copper) until Alphacool started making their full copper radiators. Vast majority were brass liquid contact. Never had an issue and the brass fittings in my reservoir still look good.
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Trust me, I'd love to just use distilled and the kill coil I already have but a few different folks has said that is a bad idea. ???

Maybe mine leaked just from the PT Nuke, I don't know.
 
I'm just stating my own personal experience. Never used PT Nuke, distelled + silver only. Two different loops with all the different platings, haven't observed an issue. A sample size of two is a very small sample size, but until I experience something breaking I won't change it.
 
I just can't win. Got the new Corsair Hydro X Series XR7 360mm radiators and it M4-0.7mm not 8-32 like the old ones.
So, not I need 52 of these.
1683912369980.png
Home Depot has 6 for like $1.50 each.

I don't see any markings one the old RADs and they don't look bad inside from what little I can see.

1683912711607.png
 
I been using Distilled water and the primochill stuff for years and never had a issue with corrasion or growth. I am extremely lazy about loop maintenance. I haven't touched my loop since I added a 3080ti into the loop like 2 years ago.
 
I see that some only have a 3-year warranty and some recommend replacing them every 3 years. Seems like a waste to me. Shouldn't they last indefinitely if there are no dissimilar metals and the correct fluid?

Can the old ones be recycled, would anyone want them? Seems like a good amount of copper?
 
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