Rx480 temps

auntjemima

auntjemima

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Mar 1, 2014
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I got an rx480 recently.. see this...

https://hardforum.com/threads/identify-this-rx-480.2013210/

Anyway, took it to work, cleaned off some corrosion and bolted a fan to the side. Boots and runs.

Issue is, when gaming or mining it spikes to high 80's FAST. Even at -50% core and -2500 memory, it still sits at 75C. I mean, I am mounting a fan (at 4000rpm) to a waterblock, so I wasn't expecting perfection, but even at 75C for an hour, the waterblock isn't even warm, so is the sensor even correct?
 
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Take a larger screw driver and really tighten the four screws mounting the GPU core or if you have some plastic washers add them to those screws.
 
so strapped a fan to a heatsink with an empty water block? its probably right since the block isnt part of the heatsink.
 
auntjemima said:
Never thought of this. I'll see about removing the waterblock portion.
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the block is the only part touching the core though. do that and it has nothing and will fry if you try to use it. you need to build a little loop for it.
 
pendragon1 said:
the block is the only part touching the core though. do that and it has nothing and will fry if you try to use it. you need to build a little loop for it.
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Well, I took it apart anyway, even though I had a feeling it would be removing the core portion. I like to know how things work. ANYWAY,

I guess I am going to have to build a small loop. I don't really want to build a loop for this card, but I'm sure I can purpose it later for something else.

Here are some pictures of the fittings.. both the rad and block have the same fittings. Someone local said I would need hard lines for this type of fitting but I know NOTHING about this aspect of PC building. Help!

IMG_20210826_153011.jpg


IMG_20210826_152957.jpg
 
Check and make sure you put the screws back in the right holes. On my 480 there's a spot you can put a screw in which will hit the heatsink and keep it from making full contact. Or maybe it was if you overtightened one screw. One of those.
 
Johnx64 said:
Check and make sure you put the screws back in the right holes. On my 480 there's a spot you can put a screw in which will hit the heatsink and keep it from making full contact.
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Good thinking, but with this waterblock all of the screws are the same except for one and it's separated from the rest.
 
auntjemima said:
Good thinking, but with this waterblock all of the screws are the same except for one and it's separated from the rest.
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Yeah all the screws on mine are the same just there is one spot it looks like you should add a screw but shouldn't or you should but the screw just needs to be snug.
 
auntjemima said:
Well, I took it apart anyway, even though I had a feeling it would be removing the core portion. I like to know how things work. ANYWAY,

I guess I am going to have to build a small loop. I don't really want to build a loop for this card, but I'm sure I can purpose it later for something else.

Here are some pictures of the fittings.. both the rad and block have the same fittings. Someone local said I would need hard lines for this type of fitting but I know NOTHING about this aspect of PC building. Help!

View attachment 388916

View attachment 388917
Click to expand...
yeah those are hard line fittings. just get some cheap barbs, a pump and small res.
 
Alright, this is becoming painful. So, I originally ordered some 1/2 barbed fittings. Turns out almost everything is 3/8. So, I now have some 3/8 fittings, clamps, pump and hose in my cart.... But all the reservoirs say 1/4?

Am I going insane?
 
auntjemima said:
Alright, this is becoming painful. So, I originally ordered some 1/2 barbed fittings. Turns out almost everything is 3/8. So, I now have some 3/8 fittings, clamps, pump and hose in my cart.... But all the reservoirs say 1/4?

Am I going insane?
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well you need g1/4 thread and then a barb size to match tubing, could be 1/2 or 3/8. what did you order?
 
Wait you weren’t running water through the block and temps were in the 80s and this was surprising? 😂

1/4” npt is standard for everything, so the part that screws into the block or into the rad or pump is all 1/4 npt

also make sure you get a radiator… I don’t see you mentioning one. Even a small cheap 120 will work. Also try to have like metals (if block is copper get a copper rad)
 
pendragon1 said:
well you need g1/4 thread and then a barb size to match tubing, could be 1/2 or 3/8. what did you order?
Click to expand...

Sabers post cleared up a question before I even asked it, but this is good info. Thanks! I didn't order anything yet, I stopped when I didn't have a clue why the rad lists 1/4 and everything else was 3/8 of a 1/2.

sabrewolf732 said:
Wait you weren’t running water through the block and temps were in the 80s and this was surprising? 😂

1/4” npt is standard for everything, so the part that screws into the block or into the rad or pump is all 1/4 npt

also make sure you get a radiator… I don’t see you mentioning one. Even a small cheap 120 will work. Also try to have like metals (if block is copper get a copper rad)
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
Andrew_Carr said:
Do you need this to be watercooled? I have some dead 470/580 GPUs I could mail you and you could probably use those heatsinks. I would try the washers if everything is connected and it's still overheating.
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Oh god, this is great news.

I don't WANT to watercool, but this packaged deal came with a rad, and a card with a waterblock on it, but no heatsink. I would prefer a heatsink instead of $300 worth of crap to watercool a 480 lol
 
auntjemima said:
Oh god, this is great news.

I don't WANT to watercool, but this packaged deal came with a rad, and a card with a waterblock on it, but no heatsink. I would prefer a heatsink instead of $300 worth of crap to watercool a 480 lol
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Ok, these are the dead ones I have. Some turn on / might be fixable but I haven't had any luck and just didn't want to throw them out. Do any of these look like they'll work?
https://files.catbox.moe/u7zjno.jpg
Aorus 570, sapphire 470, MSI 580 I think (model # ms-v341), and a reference rx 580 (labeled dooku-rx580, looks like an OEM one, that's the one with the heatsink taken off in this photo)
 
Andrew_Carr said:
Ok, these are the dead ones I have. Some turn on / might be fixable but I haven't had any luck and just didn't want to throw them out. Do any of these look like they'll work?
https://files.catbox.moe/u7zjno.jpg
Aorus 570, sapphire 470, MSI 580 I think, and a reference rx 580 (labeled dooku-rx580, looks like an OEM one, that's the one with the heatsink taken off in this photo)
Click to expand...
I'll have to pull my waterblock and see how the board lines up based on reference design. Hopefully it's similar.
 
Andrew_Carr said:
Ok, these are the dead ones I have. Some turn on / might be fixable but I haven't had any luck and just didn't want to throw them out. Do any of these look like they'll work?
https://files.catbox.moe/u7zjno.jpg
Aorus 570, sapphire 470, MSI 580 I think (model # ms-v341), and a reference rx 580 (labeled dooku-rx580, looks like an OEM one, that's the one with the heatsink taken off in this photo)
Click to expand...
After removing my waterblock, I think the Aorus in the center or the MSI on the bottom seem the closest, mostly based on apparent length and DVI placement. Shoot me a pm and we can discuss cost and shipping. Thanks!
 
Watercooling all hooked up. Forgot to buy coolant at the same time. Genius move. It's on its way
 
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auntjemima said:
Just standard automotive ethylene glycol?
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yup or propylene glycol will work as well if you want something less toxic, but it has more work associated as it believe it breaks down into lactic acid.

but yup regular antifreeze.

jayztwocents did a video about it years ago.
 
applegrcoug said:
yup or propylene glycol will work as well if you want something less toxic, but it has more work associated as it believe it breaks down into lactic acid.

but yup regular antifreeze.

jayztwocents did a video about it years ago.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I've ordered some anyway, so I'll wait, but good to know!
 
yup. aios are filled with a 10/90% mix of the good old green stuff and distilled water. im currently using some red stuff for my mix.
 
Why not just use water? Are you leaving your computer outside in the winter? The glycol automotive stuff doesn't do anything to help cool, it actually is less good as a coolant than distilled water.
 
travm said:
Why not just use water? Are you leaving your computer outside in the winter? The glycol automotive stuff doesn't do anything to help cool, it actually is less good as a coolant than distilled water.
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100% of the Google searches I did say to not use water. I didn't read into why, but when you google "should I use water in my watercooling setup" and the first entire Google search results page says no, I didn't need to look further.
 
auntjemima said:
100% of the Google searches I did say to not use water. I didn't read into why, but when you google "should I use water in my watercooling setup" and the first entire Google search results page says no, I didn't need to look further.
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Interesting. Distilled water makes excellent coolant for most things. Is preferred for automotive if temperatures don't get near freezing. Being distilled is important, but I wonder what the logic is for not using it in PC applications.
Edit, copper and aluminum galvanic issues. Makes sense. A good quality copper radiator and all copper blocks and fittings would work fine, but adding aluminum is a problem. Automotive only uses aluminum typically. But that is why. Don't use plain water 🙂.
 
travm said:
Interesting. Distilled water makes excellent coolant for most things. Is preferred for automotive if temperatures don't get near freezing. Being distilled is important, but I wonder what the logic is for not using it in PC applications.
Edit, copper and aluminum galvanic issues. Makes sense. A good quality copper radiator and all copper blocks and fittings would work fine, but adding aluminum is a problem. Automotive only uses aluminum typically. But that is why. Don't use plain water 🙂.
Click to expand...
Yeah, distilled is probably fine, just not straight from the tap.
 
travm said:
Glycol doesn't stop that. Nothing grows in distilled water.
Unless you put it there
Click to expand...

It's nearly impossible to not contaminate water. You will get growth. Both ethylene and propylene mitigate the likelihood of growth.

Distilled water might also not be the best choice for a coolant system in an engine.
 
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auntjemima said:
100% of the Google searches I did say to not use water. I didn't read into why, but when you google "should I use water in my watercooling setup" and the first entire Google search results page says no, I didn't need to look further.
Click to expand...

You don't use straight tap water, or distilled water for the same reasons you don't in an automotive engine, namely corrosion. Straight tap water has minerals and metal ions dissolved in it, and distilled water will too the second it touches any metal parts in the cooling loop. Modern automotive antifreeze has more than just ethylene/propylene glycol in it, it also has additive packages of corrosion inhibitors and things to balance the pH of the fluid to keep it from becoming too acidic or too basic. The additive package does more than the glycol itself in a PC liquid cooling system, but the glycol still works to lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point of the liquid, which is useful in some atmospheric conditions.

One such use for the glycol is at the high end. The boiling point of water drops with atmospheric pressure. At sea level, the boiling point of water is 212F, but in Denver at 5280 feet, it's only 202 degrees. It drops about 1.8F every 1000 feet you go up, so the glycol would help keep the water from boiling.

I don't think CPUs and GPUs are powerful enough heat sources to cause cavitation and/or boiling in the liquid, maybe if the pump failed or something.
 
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