Proposed Gaming Rig: Thoughts/Suggestions

T

Tsuyoi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 17, 2011
Messages
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Hey guys, So after 3 years in college being stuck using a gaming laptop (half of my spare time was spent in school due to gaps between classes, so needed something portable), I'm finally back to desktops. However, the last desktop I had was an Alienware (pre-Dell) that I bought in 2006, and that sucker cost me $2,300 without any peripherals, so that's not really an option anymore.

Long story short, I'm looking to build my own desktop now by Black Friday, and I've put together a list of parts/components. However, it's been so long since I've actually touched a desktop system that I'm not sure in terms of max efficiency/compatibility/cooling etc, so I'd love some input on how well those parts would mesh, bottlenecks, heating issues, etc. So here's the planned build:

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131730

Intel Core i-7 2600k
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.757241

CM Hyper 212 Evo HSF
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB(4x4GB) DDR 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143

MSI GeForce GTX 580 Lightning
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127579

Seasonic X-850 850W Gold
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102

Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM SATA III 6GB/s
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697

Fractal Design Arc Midi Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007

SAMSUNG 24'' LED Monitor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001482


The two main things I'll be doing on it: Watching Hi-Def videos from it on my 55'' LED-TV, and full effects gaming (MW3, BF3, and in the future, NFS, ME3, etc). Budget-wise, I'm trying to keep it under $2,000.

So far a few issues concern me, and I'll list them below in order of importance (or perceived importance).

Power supply - Too much? Too little? I do plan on eventually putting the graphics card in SLI, either getting another 580 or getting two brand new cards a year or two down the road. Rumors of Radeon 7990 make me drool. Also, I plan on overclocking the i7-2600K to about 4.5 GHz. Some people tell me a solid 850W like the Seasonic is enough, others say nothing less than a 1000W. Problem is the 1000W seasonic is like $100 more. I know that with a single graphics card right now 850W should be overkill....

RAM - Overkill? I've been living with 4GB of laptop ram for 3 years, but I definitely hate the lag times for loading apps. Plus, I'm a notorious multitasker. 12 windows open in Firefox, which I know gobbles RAM, two youtube videos buffering, MMO idling in background, music player running, etc. Still, even with all that, do I honestly need 16GB, or would 12 or even 8 be plenty?

HSF - Necessity? I know i7 comes with a stock HSF, and it's not like the case should be particularly cramped. Computer will be in a room with AC that never goes above 75 F. I've also heard that the CM 212 might block a ram port on the MoBo. However, with my plans to OC, I'm afraid the stock HSF wouldn't be enougoh.

HDD - How much difference does a SSD really make from a 7200RPM SATA 6GB/s with 32MB cache? My main two concerns are a) OS boot time (Windows 7) and b) commonly used software boot time (Firefox, MS Office, VLC, Photoshop, etc). If any of you have direct experience with SSD vs SATA 6GB/s, would love some input on actual load time/ load time differences. I do plan on eventually getting a 60GB SSD (prob Crucial) to boot Windows and core programs, but that's another $100 i'm loathe to spend if it won't make that huge of a diff.


That's all that I'm aware of for now, but if you see anything else awry please let me know. I know this has been one hell of a long post, and I'd appreciate any input!
 
Tsuyoi said:
The two main things I'll be doing on it: Watching Hi-Def videos from it on my 55'' LED-TV, and full effects gaming (MW3, BF3, and in the future, NFS, ME3, etc). Budget-wise, I'm trying to keep it under $2,000.

So far a few issues concern me, and I'll list them below in order of importance (or perceived importance).

Power supply - Too much? Too little? I do plan on eventually putting the graphics card in SLI, either getting another 580 or getting two brand new cards a year or two down the road. Rumors of Radeon 7990 make me drool. Also, I plan on overclocking the i7-2600K to about 4.5 GHz. Some people tell me a solid 850W like the Seasonic is enough, others say nothing less than a 1000W. Problem is the 1000W seasonic is like $100 more. I know that with a single graphics card right now 850W should be overkill....
Click to expand...

Too little if you are going to do 580 SLI 'and' overclocking imho. Check out this site for qualified PSUs for 580 SLI:

http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone_build_psu.html

Tsuyoi said:
RAM - Overkill? I've been living with 4GB of laptop ram for 3 years, but I definitely hate the lag times for loading apps. Plus, I'm a notorious multitasker. 12 windows open in Firefox, which I know gobbles RAM, two youtube videos buffering, MMO idling in background, music player running, etc. Still, even with all that, do I honestly need 16GB, or would 12 or even 8 be plenty?
Click to expand...

Overkill, but RAM is pretty cheap. I had 6GB and my system ran great, then I upped it to 12GB and it ran marginally better. Now I am up to 16GB in my new build (exact same RAM you are buying). RAM is cheap, that is all there is to it really. Lots of RAM of at least 1600 Mhz is good.

Tsuyoi said:
HSF - Necessity? I know i7 comes with a stock HSF, and it's not like the case should be particularly cramped. Computer will be in a room with AC that never goes above 75 F. I've also heard that the CM 212 might block a ram port on the MoBo. However, with my plans to OC, I'm afraid the stock HSF wouldn't be enougoh.
Click to expand...

I always prefer aftermarket coolers. If you plan to OC and are worried about space, I would go with a watercooler like the Corsair H80 or H100. It is a bit of a jump in price, but watercooling offers more stability and you will have more room to work with. www.frostytech.com is a good place to check out as well to get a list of coolers and how they operate.

Tsuyoi said:
HDD - How much difference does a SSD really make from a 7200RPM SATA 6GB/s with 32MB cache? My main two concerns are a) OS boot time (Windows 7) and b) commonly used software boot time (Firefox, MS Office, VLC, Photoshop, etc). If any of you have direct experience with SSD vs SATA 6GB/s, would love some input on actual load time/ load time differences. I do plan on eventually getting a 60GB SSD (prob Crucial) to boot Windows and core programs, but that's another $100 i'm loathe to spend if it won't make that huge of a diff.
Click to expand...

SSDs make a huge difference from a mechanical HDD. SSDs are even faster than mechanical HDDs in RAID. But there is a jump in cost as well. You have to determine if that extra performance is worth the cost to you. I would suggest a 60-120GB SSD for your OS and then 2 1TB drives in RAID for the rest of your system. Also SATA III for mechanical drives is a waste imho, they can't even saturate SATA II. For SSDs, i prefer OCZ Agility 3 and any of the Vertex series. I have a Vertex Pro 240 and an Agility 3 240GB SSD.
 
Thanks NoOther, that's really helpful. Guess I'll bump the PSU to the Seasonic 1000W platinum, get the SSD, and drop the HDD to a SATA II
 
It would help if you answered the following questions:
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video? etc.
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? 32bit or 64bit?

And to address your concerns:
PSU: It is a tad overkill for a single GPU. It should be ok for SLI even with the overclock. However, you can get a larger PSU for only $6 more:
$226 - Corsair HX1050 1050W Modular PSU

RAM: You would probably be fine with 8GB of RAM. However RAM is stupid cheap at this point. So unless you really really need to save $45, get 16GB of RAM. It's really cheap and more RAM rarely hurts. However I'd go with a different set of RAM since the heatsinks on that RAM is rather tall and may interefere with the HSF placement. I recommend this RAM instead:
$88 - 2 x G.Skill Sniper F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR 2 x 4GB DDR3 1600 RAM

HSF: If you're overclocking, stick with the CM 212+

HDD: SSD does speed up load times immensely compared to current hard drives. Not to mention better response times too. Even the fastest consumer grade hard drive is no match for the middile of the road SSDs when it comes to just sheer speed. Also note that the SATA 6.0Gb/s interface itself does not matter when it comes to hard drives: Mechanical hard drives haven't even reached the limits of SATA 3.0Gb/s and probably won't for awhile. So if you see SATA 6.0Gb/s on a hard drive, pay no mind to it as it's basically a marketing gimmick. SSDs, however, have exceeded the SATA 3.0GB/s and therefore requires SATA 6.0Gb/s.

Anyway, if you want to stick with a hard drive, don't bother with that Seagate as this Hitachi drive is significantly faster:
$156 - Hitachi Desktar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 1TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Hard Drive

If you want to grab a SSD, I definitely recommend the Crucial M4 SSDs.
 
Thanks Danny, I'll probably be making those mods to my shopping list.

I'll be Using an existing copy of windows 7 pro 64 bit.

As for the MoBo, USB 3, SLI, overclock friendly, SATA 6 for SSD, and onboard graphics. I'm planning on watching videos with the integrated HD 3000, then switching to the 580 for gaming, to save power/reduce heat.

However, for the HSF, why is the 212+ better than the 212 Evo? From what I could gather from videos/Newegg review, the two differences are that the Evo pipes have better surface contact with the processor, and it's fans move more air. I figured the Evo was the upgrade of the +, or did they mess up and the originals still the top?
 
Tsuyoi said:
However, for the HSF, why is the 212+ better than the 212 Evo? From what I could gather from videos/Newegg review, the two differences are that the Evo pipes have better surface contact with the processor, and it's fans move more air. I figured the Evo was the upgrade of the +, or did they mess up and the originals still the top?
Click to expand...

The main reason why I recommend the 212+ in general is that it's cheaper than the 212 Evo. I haven't seen any reviews so far showing whether or not the Evo's supposedly better cooling justifies the extra $9. With that said, if you don't mind the extra $9, then go for the Evo.

Mobo wise, from what you've said, you should be fine with any of these mobos:
$178 - MSI Z68A-GD55 (G3) Intel Z68 ATX Motherboard
$178 - Asus P8Z68-V Intel Z68 ATX Motherboard
 
So just another question that popped up in my mind. I'm currently considering buying the Fractal Arc Midi case, but it just looks so.... blah. I'm definitely not looking for your typical "gaming chassis" with 20 different LED lights, Dead Space style protrusions, and a dozen drive bay slots painted in orange. However, I WOULD like something sleek, elegant, preferably in black/gray, that can still fit all the hardware listed above.

My two major concerns when it comes to the case is sadly a bit contradictory, sound level and cooling.

My room is typically very quiet, quiet enough that you can hear the clock ticking. My old Alienware, however, was loud enough to drown out a vacuum cleaner. I prefer something that at the very most would sound like a light breeze while idling. Preferably, I want to be able to leave it on overnight (for downloading), and be able to sleep 5 feet away from it without it being really audible.

On the other hand, I'd like it to be able to keep my hardware cool when I am doing a 4 hour BF3 marathon, especially since I plan on OCing the processor.

Other than the Arc Midi, I had a few other possibilities in mind, primary focus being on silent, then on cooling, and finally on looks.

NZXT H2 Classic
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146072

NZXT Whisper
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146051&Tpk=nxzt whisper

Thoughts? Anyone know anything about these 3 cases?


On a final note, for computer cases that come with "built in fan controllers", is it still possible to re-route those fans to another controller? I'm looking at: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005
 
Tsuyoi said:
So just another question that popped up in my mind. I'm currently considering buying the Fractal Arc Midi case, but it just looks so.... blah. I'm definitely not looking for your typical "gaming chassis" with 20 different LED lights, Dead Space style protrusions, and a dozen drive bay slots painted in orange. However, I WOULD like something sleek, elegant, preferably in black/gray, that can still fit all the hardware listed above.

My two major concerns when it comes to the case is sadly a bit contradictory, sound level and cooling.

My room is typically very quiet, quiet enough that you can hear the clock ticking. My old Alienware, however, was loud enough to drown out a vacuum cleaner. I prefer something that at the very most would sound like a light breeze while idling. Preferably, I want to be able to leave it on overnight (for downloading), and be able to sleep 5 feet away from it without it being really audible.

On the other hand, I'd like it to be able to keep my hardware cool when I am doing a 4 hour BF3 marathon, especially since I plan on OCing the processor.

Other than the Arc Midi, I had a few other possibilities in mind, primary focus being on silent, then on cooling, and finally on looks.

NZXT H2 Classic
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146072

NZXT Whisper
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146051&Tpk=nxzt whisper

Thoughts? Anyone know anything about these 3 cases?


On a final note, for computer cases that come with "built in fan controllers", is it still possible to re-route those fans to another controller? I'm looking at: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005
Click to expand...

I would suggest this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129174
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129154

The Antec P183 is highly recommended for quiet cool operation. There is a whole website dedicated specifically to quiet computing: http://www.silentpcreview.com/section9.html

I have used some of their suggestions and methods before to make my systems a bit less noisy.
 
What's the difference between the 183 and 180? At a cursory glance the two seem almost identical.
 
Tsuyoi said:
What's the difference between the 183 and 180? At a cursory glance the two seem almost identical.
Click to expand...

Glad you asked, this is a good time to point out the site I was referring to:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article945-page7.html

Basically each P180 successor has had some minor changes, improving things like airflow and organization. The P183 improves air intake and better spacing in the PSU compartment.
 
Just finished reading through their review, was really helpful. Will probably get the 183, and pick up some quieter 120mm fans.
 
Most everything is awesome... but instead of the 212 go Corsair H60 w/ push-pull fans. It will keep your chip icy even overclocked, and will keep quiet too. As for the HDD, prices are sky-high ATM. Look at buying a 1TB external drive (they haven't all adjusted pricing yet) and raping the innards. You can prob save $100 there alone. Everything else looks cash.
 
I do have one last question, can't seem to find any info on what sized graphics card will fit in the Antec 183. Would the lightning be too big?
 
I have the Mini P180, and I'm not sure about the relative dimensions, but I can say for sure that if you are using fewer than three hard drives, there's a superfluous hard drive cage, right where most graphics cards would run into trouble. I have removed that cage, and I'd say there has to be 13"+ of clearance, easily. With the cage installed, I can still fit an EVGA Superclocked HD [9 inches] card without much fuss.
 
Tsuyoi said:
I do have one last question, can't seem to find any info on what sized graphics card will fit in the Antec 183. Would the lightning be too big?
Click to expand...

If you don't use the upper drive bay in the Antec P183, you can use just about any length video card, including the GTX 580, just fine.

However, as an owner of the original P180 case, I'd have to recommend taking a solid look at another case before you go with the P183:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Silverstone_Raven_Two
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/09/30/my_quiet_galaxy_geforce_gtx_480_sli_build

Buying links:
$160 - Silverstone RV02B-W ATX case
$178 - Silverstone RV02B-EW ATX case

If the Raven is too much money, then the P183 is a fine alternative.
 
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I do love the Mini P180, also, but the swinging door has become something of a mild nuisance. For the price I paid, though [$69.99], it was far and away the most sleek, feature-rich Micro ATX case I could find, and it has served me quite well.

That said, I have built computers for friends/family using the Cooler Master RC-692, and I love it. Other cases at different price points that I think would make great options:

59.99 Cooler Master HAF 912
89.99 Cooler Master RC-692
99.99 Corsair Carbide 400R
159.99 Corsair 600T

Best of luck!
 
Well thanks everyone for all your help, I've finally bought all the components through Newegg, getting quite a few discounts during their Black Friday sales. Here's a breakdown of the final build:

ANTEC P183 V3 Black - Case
ASUS P8Z68-V Gen 3 - MoBo
Seasonic X750 Gold - PSU
Intel Core i7 2600K - CPU
CM Hyper 212 Evo - HSF
MSI N580 GTX Lightning - GPU
G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB(4x4GB) DDR3 1600 - RAM
Crucial M4 64GB - SSD
Hitachi Deskstar 1TB 7200RPM - HDD
GELID Solutions 120mm Gamer Fan - Case Cooling
SAMSUNG 24'' ToC LED 1920x1080 - Main Display
SAMSUNG 55'' UN55D6000 LED HDTV - Connected TV for epic movies and gaming

Will be putting it all together this Sunday, praying for no duds/lemons. Will post pics and update when complete!
 
That psu costs a lot more, and I currently don't have plans of SLIing anytime soon since I only have 1 1920x1080 monitor to run, so the 750W will run me fine.

That ram's rated at 1.65V. Don't want any future complications with RMA/warrantys trying to run that on a 1.5V system.

Also two GTX 570s not only cost more, they'd generate more heat, take up a lot more space in my case, and be louder. For my needs (Skyrim, MW3, BF3, etc) a 580 GTX will do just fine for a 1920x1080 display. My main priority is sound insulation and heat generation.
 
Well, just found the time to put together the rig over the weekend, and everything looks/works great! Haven't had time to seriously OC tweak due to work, but a preliminary OC run has the i7-2600k Running at 4.5Ghz with x43 multipliers, and the MSI Lightning GTX580 running at 930 core clock at 1.100 V. Getting 3D Mark 11 score of around 7000 in performance, and 3000 in extreme. Uniengine is benching at 1386-1390 consistently with standardized settings.

Skyrim runs at 1920x1080 everything ultra 8xMSAA 8xAF with 3rd party HD tweaks extremely smoothly, no visual lag even at max render distance.

Under load the CPU is keeping under 40 degrees with the CM Hyper 212 Evo, and the GPU is keeping under 65 degrees with 66% fan speed using a custom fan speedgraph.

From pushing the power button to seeing Windows 7 homescreen takes about 10 seconds, and core apps installed on the SSD (word, firefox, skype, etc) boot instantaneously.

Case is being cooled by two GELID NFB 120MM fans and 1 stock case fan (Antec 3 speed), with two front fans and one rear fan. Even at max rpms both GELID fans are COMLPETELY silent, had to put antec at medium speed since it generated a slight whine at high rpms. Currently, it is impossible to tell whether my computer is on or not without looking at the power LED. The loudest component is actually my GPU, which produces a slight audible hum when the fans go beyond 70%.

Obviously, the Antec P183 lives up to its reputation as being extremely quiet. I do have one small complaint about the case, though. The case comes with two separate HDD bays, with a total of 5 slots. However, only the top two use screwless removable mounts that can fit 2.5'' drives. I've had to take out the upper tray due to my ridiculously long graphics card (13'', conflicts with the drive bay by about .3''). The bottom drive bay attaches 3.5'' drives by means of 4 screws each vertically, and has zero compatibility for a 2.5'' drive without a separate adapter (which is not included). My 2.5'' SSD is currently fastened to the bottom drive bay via duct tape while I wait for a separately purchased 2.5 to 3.5 adapter to arrive.

Will be attempting more serious OC this coming weekend, will post new benches/temps when that happens.
 
Tsuyoi said:
Obviously, the Antec P183 lives up to its reputation as being extremely quiet. I do have one small complaint about the case, though. The case comes with two separate HDD bays, with a total of 5 slots. However, only the top two use screwless removable mounts that can fit 2.5'' drives. I've had to take out the upper tray due to my ridiculously long graphics card (13'', conflicts with the drive bay by about .3''). The bottom drive bay attaches 3.5'' drives by means of 4 screws each vertically, and has zero compatibility for a 2.5'' drive without a separate adapter (which is not included). My 2.5'' SSD is currently fastened to the bottom drive bay via duct tape while I wait for a separately purchased 2.5 to 3.5 adapter to arrive.
Click to expand...

I have not looked at how they have the bays attached in the P183 in a while, isn't it possible to remove the top bay and install it down where the bottom bay is? So that way you have the 2.5" compatibility?

I am interested to see how your temps go and how quiet the case is with all the OCing.
 
I'm not sure about the original P183s, but in the P183 Ver 3 the two drive bays are different sizes, and the guide rails on the chassis are different. It really is just the slightest bit of conflict between my graphics card and the upper drive bay.

For OC, i'm going to keep the graphics card at its current clock/voltages. I tried tweaking it further to 940 core, but to maintain temps of under 70 i'd have to ramp the onboard fans to over 75% rpm, at which point they become just audible.

The CPU i'm going to keep working on, if anything i'm going to swap out the default fan on the CM Hyper 212 with another GELID to get more airflow/less noise. Still, since I really don't do anything that's that processor intensive, I might just leave it at it's current 4.5 GHz clock.

So far I've had the comp on for 48 hours continuously. About 12 of those were spent gaming/running benches with 3D Mark 11 and UniEngine, the rest were taken up primarily with installing more games and torrenting massive massive amounts of data. Looking at HWMonitor, peak temps within the case have not gone above 60 ever, with average temps around the low 40s. The GPU hits ~65 when benching, but has maintained under 60 while gaming. Got to say, the MSI lightning keeps itself cool pretty well.

For a comparison between the GELID and stock case fans, I have one GELID and one stock fan on the two front fan slots. Both are mounted via screws (gelid rubber grommets wouldn't fit on the front bracket). When I have both at max RPM, the GELID is still a very slight whisper, while the stock fan is more of a hum/whine. Placing my hand over the vents, the GELID is generating noticeably more suction, and thus more airflow, probably around 30%. At this rate I'm considering swapping out my last stock fan for another GELID.
 
Ok slight issue. I'm trying to get ASUS Lucid Virtu up and running, and it keeps giving me some shit about how no intel onboard graphics are detected, even though I have all the latest Intel drivers installed. From what I could find online, this is possibly due to me having a display plugged into my GPU port?

Does this mean Lucid Virtu only works if you have all your displays plugged into the MoBo, and can't have any directly plugged into the GPU?

My main problem is that both my TV and monitor use HDMI, but my GPU only has one HDMI port. My MoBo also has an HDMI port, but currently it won't detect a display through that port, so yeah....

Also, how good is an HDMI to DVI converter in terms of fidelity/quality? I spent $30 on a 50 foot HDMI cable to route it around my room from my TV to my comp, would hate to have to buy another HDMI to DVI cable, so i want to just pick up a HDMI female to DVI male converter. Would that result in a loss of video quality, since I'm planning on playing 1080p videos on a 55'' TV?
 
HDMI to DVI converter won't cause any issues, since it is a passive adapter (it's not converting the signal).
 
Ok this might seem like a stuipd question, but the adaptors don't limit the "direction" of data flow right? Most of the HDMI female to DVI male adaptors I see on Amazon and state "play your HDMI sources on your DVI display", but I'm trying to do the opposite, use my GPU's DVI out on a HDMI screen, so data would flow through the male DVI end of the adapter to the female HDMI end and onwards.

The specific converter i'm looking at is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Eforcity-HDMI...ctronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1323372406&sr=1-56
 
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Tsuyoi said:
Ok this might seem like a stuipd question, but the adaptors don't limit the "direction" of data flow right? Most of the HDMI female to DVI male adaptors I see on Amazon and state "play your HDMI sources on your DVI display", but I'm trying to do the opposite, use my GPU's DVI out on a HDMI screen, so data would flow through the male DVI end of the adapter to the female HDMI end and onwards.

The specific converter i'm looking at is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Eforcity-HDMI...ctronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1323372406&sr=1-56
Click to expand...
A few people from the Amazon user reviews of that item are trying the DVI to HDMI route with that adapter and are reporting that it does not work.
 
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Honestly, I don't think so, but I'm not sure. I use a DVI-to-HDMI cable to connect my DVI video card to my HDMI TV and it works great. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work the other way also.
 
For cables I know they're designed for cross compatibility, but some adapters are only designed single path. Well, the connector should be here next wedn, will report on if it works then.
 
Tsuyoi said:
For cables I know they're designed for cross compatibility, but some adapters are only designed single path. Well, the connector should be here next wedn, will report on if it works then.
Click to expand...

It depends on how the wires are connected. HDMI can carry more signal than DVI, mostly because it has the ability to carry sound as well as video. So it really matters how they pinned out the conversion from HDMI to DVI.

I would look here for adapters, this place pretty much has everything for fairly cheap prices too:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419

And those adapters should go both ways.
 
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