NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Hy Folks

Summer Project Done.
Ready for Winter Days. Ready for great Stories. Ready for 1080p/60fps

Highly Inspired by Bluehandstechs M1 Build. Thx for that.


NCase M1 ITX Small Form Factor

CPU - Skylake 6700K
GPU - Nvidia Geforce GTX 980Ti
RAM - 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4-2133
Samsung SSD 850 EVO M.2 128 GB
Samsung 850 EVO Basic 500GB
Corsair SF600
ASUS Z170I PRO GAMING
XBOX ONE Elite Controller


Custom Selfmade Watercooling Loop

- Alphacool Radiator
- Alphacool Adapters
- EKWB Radiator
- Monsoon Hardline Fittings
- EKWB Waterblocks
- Monsoon PETG 13/10 Tubes
- Watercool Heatkiller Pump/Res Combo
- 2x Silverstone 120mm Fans
- Noctua 92mm Fan

Is this the 100 long reservoir?

How did you mount it to the front of the chassis?
 
Hey guys,

It's 48mm clearance from an EK gpu waterblock to the bottom of the case, right? I read that somewhere in this thread but I'm not sure if it's 48mm or 49mm

thanks
 
Hey guys,

It's 48mm clearance from an EK gpu waterblock to the bottom of the case, right? I read that somewhere in this thread but I'm not sure if it's 48mm or 49mm

thanks

I measure 44mm to the bottom of the plugs on the terminal. Less on the far right plug.
The card itself ranges from about 49mm to 47mm from left to right. Despite my best efforts, the card droops significantly. I weighed the card, with acrylic block, acrylic terminal and alloy backplate it's a pretty substantial 1.03kg total.

In terms of your build, every little bit of extra room helps. Even one or two mm may mean the difference between actually being able to fit your GPU (or not!...) into the case after you bolt the water block on. A combination of unscrewing the bottom rads/fans and sliding the card are all required to fit the card into position.
 
^
so 49mm if the card doesn't droop, gotcha. I'm planning to get this top, 46mm total height excluding top plugs

images
 
Holy crap I put a EVGA Hybrid kit on my 1070 Aero last night and mounted it up in the Ncase. Card went from throttling at 80% fan and 82C to rock solid clock speed at a peak so far of 42C. And the very best part is I can now game without needing headphones because the blower fan is so damn loud.
 
Saturday I hope to disconnect my old comp and boot up the new build for the first time.

Should I place the Win 10 installation flash drive in a USB port prior to the boot, or put the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming MB drivers DVD in first instead?
 
Saturday I hope to disconnect my old comp and boot up the new build for the first time.

Should I place the Win 10 installation flash drive in a USB port prior to the boot, or put the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming MB drivers DVD in first instead?

Put the usb in first, just change your boot options in the bios to boot off usb. Drivers install after the OS.
 
Holy crap I put a EVGA Hybrid kit on my 1070 Aero last night and mounted it up in the Ncase. Card went from throttling at 80% fan and 82C to rock solid clock speed at a peak so far of 42C. And the very best part is I can now game without needing headphones because the blower fan is so damn loud.
Nice! I did the same upgrade on my GTX 1080 Founders Edition, and have the same temperature and performance improvements.
 
Hi everybody... First of all excuse my bad english

I´m just a noob in building a PC so i ordered the components and got them assembled in a shop. I own a V2, with a Asus Z97 i plus, a 4790K, M2 ssd... and a Silverstone SFX-500L. I´ve used this config first with a 770, later a 960 and now i´ve just bought a gigabayte 1080 G1

I´m trying to fit the card inside the case and i´m having PSU clearance problems-. I can´t insert the PCI connector as the back part of the card is contacting the PSU power connectors. I´ve tried to search this forum for PSU clearance but i can´t find anything.

Is it possible to fit that Graphic Card in my case or do i have to buy another PSU like de Corsair 600 or the SFX-L Lianli PE-500 ?

Has anyone solved this problem?
 
Hi everybody... First of all excuse my bad english

I´m just a noob in building a PC so i ordered the components and got them assembled in a shop. I own a V2, with a Asus Z97 i plus, a 4790K, M2 ssd... and a Silverstone SFX-500L. I´ve used this config first with a 770, later a 960 and now i´ve just bought a gigabayte 1080 G1

I´m trying to fit the card inside the case and i´m having PSU clearance problems-. I can´t insert the PCI connector as the back part of the card is contacting the PSU power connectors. I´ve tried to search this forum for PSU clearance but i can´t find anything.

Is it possible to fit that Graphic Card in my case or do i have to buy another PSU like de Corsair 600 or the SFX-L Lianli PE-500 ?

Has anyone solved this problem?

If it still won't fit with the revised SFX bracket it will fit with the Corsair SF600. It is a regular SFX not a SFX-L.
 
does anyone know what size the countersunk screws are that hold the radiator bracket up are? I've managed to misplace them...
 
The M1 V3 and later cases come with a revised SFX bracket that allows for more SFXL support. My understanding is it gives a few extra mm of space for cables. Check out the accessory page on the M1 website. It has the bracket for sale for ten dollars. I would try that before purchasing a new video card.

Thx, I´ll check it. Is there a v3 or superior owner that can confirm that it´s compatible a 1080 with a sfx-l?
 
The last few days I've noticed small puddles of coolant appearing under my Ncase. Apparently my EK FC R9 290X waterblock decided to start leaking after a year of service. I wasn't entirely happy with the Swiftech H220, having crappy fans (one was even rattling loudly under a certain angle) and the pump not being able to be quiet.

So I decided to remove the watercooling setup and focus on a good air cooling:

SoLVfi5.png


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I used a Scythe Kabuto 2 (thanks cowsgomoo) with a Noctua NF-F12 fan from a NH-L12 heatsink I still had (used the Scythe fan on that one) and an Arctic Accelero Extreme IV (thx Necere) on the R9 290X with two Noctua NF-F12 fans. The Noiseblocker 80x15mm fan in my ST45SF-G is now the noisiest (read as: least quiet) part in my case...

I'll need to tweak the fan settings but I'm basically running almost the same temps as idle, except it's whisper quiet now. Oh yes and no more leaks.

Hi! I have a quick question to not using the back place of the Accelero 4. According to the manufacturer you should use the thermal pads on the back side of the card and then mount the back plate. I assume the hot areas of the RAM are cooled via the backplate. Did you worry about this at all / do any mounting of thermal pads on the back side?
 
Alright so I finally managed to put together a final solution to my loop. cutting all PETG pipes today. Holy smokes it's tight in this baby. A real challenge.

bBIhwPF.jpg


Oh boy, do yourself a favor and get rid of that Magicool Pump / Res immediately.

Mine leaked on the top. After i fixed it with Silikon, the glass cracked on its own out of nothing (see Picture). I was lucky nothing got damaged.

BluehandsTech Magicool leaked as well. Sadly he was not so lucky. His Titan X died.

Get the Heatkiller from "Watercool" HEATKILLER® Tube 100 DDC - Watercool Store

Its made of gorgeous quality, feels very solid, and its so easy to fill. Don't forget the Mounting kit and the Pump. You have to order those separately.

But nice Build after all!!

A few posts back, you can see my build with the Heatkiller. Or check it here Dropbox - M1

Cheers.
 

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Hi! I have a quick question to not using the back place of the Accelero 4. According to the manufacturer you should use the thermal pads on the back side of the card and then mount the back plate. I assume the hot areas of the RAM are cooled via the backplate. Did you worry about this at all / do any mounting of thermal pads on the back side?
Not really, since it was never cooled in its original state. Most times, the memory chips will suffice without cooling. The VRM heatsinks are important though.
 
Not really, since it was never cooled in its original state. Most times, the memory chips will suffice without cooling. The VRM heatsinks are important though.
But the VRM heat sinks are already on the card? Or do I need to buy something additional?
 
I think I really messed up my build...

It's possible I put my 1080-FE power cable into the SF600 PSU upside down. The little plastic clip that is supposed to prevent that from happening broke off earlier. So, a few days later when I believe I put the cable into the PSU it could have been upside down. Is it crucial to get the cable oriented correctly, or does it not matter? (I think I read somewhere that most PSU's can automatically reverse polarity of it's cables if necessary. I have no ides what I'm talking about here...) If it is crucial that the vid card cable be inserted into the PSU only one way, then I have a big problem.

I have to remove the video card to get access to the cable going to the power supply. I can't get the 1080 vid card out of it's PCI slot on the motherboard...it's stuck. I've repeatedly pushed down on the little tab at the end of the card, but no luck getting it out no matter what I do.

Help...
 
I think I really messed up my build...

It's possible I put my 1080-FE power cable into the SF600 PSU upside down. The little plastic clip that is supposed to prevent that from happening broke off earlier. So, a few days later when I believe I put the cable into the PSU it could have been upside down. Is it crucial to get the cable oriented correctly, or does it not matter? (I think I read somewhere that most PSU's can automatically reverse polarity of it's cables if necessary. I have no ides what I'm talking about here...) If it is crucial that the vid card cable be inserted into the PSU only one way, then I have a big problem.

I have to remove the video card to get access to the cable going to the power supply. I can't get the 1080 vid card out of it's PCI slot on the motherboard...it's stuck. I've repeatedly pushed down on the little tab at the end of the card, but no luck getting it out no matter what I do.

Help...

b980ad3b2a.jpg


The plug has those cut outs on certain corners, so it is not possible to actually insert it upside down. As far as removing the card goes are you pulling the back of the card out first, where it attaches to the pci slots?
 
b980ad3b2a.jpg


The plug has those cut outs on certain corners, so it is not possible to actually insert it upside down. As far as removing the card goes are you pulling the back of the card out first, where it attaches to the pci slots?

It seems like when I try to remove the 1080 from the back (side where that little tab is on the card) first as you say, then the opposite end of the card where it fits into the little slot on the back I/O side of the case prevents that.

A guy over at the Anandtech forums said, "...The little plastic clip that broke off isn't really there to prevent you from plugging in the cable upside down, but rather to ensure that the cable stays in place. The thing that prevents you from plugging in the cable upside down is the fact that the individual pins of the PCIe connector have different shapes and as such will only fit in the connector in one orientation. So unless you used an excessive amount of force, it really shouldn't be possible to connect it upside down...."
 
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It seems like when I try to remove the 1080 from the back (side where that little tab is on the card) first as you say, then the opposite end of the card where it fits into the little slot on the back I/O side of the case prevents that.

A guy over at the Anandtech forums said, "...The little plastic clip that broke off isn't really there to prevent you from plugging in the cable upside down, but rather to ensure that the cable stays in place.

The thing that prevents you from plugging in the cable upside down is the fact that the individual pins of the PCIe connector have different shapes and as such will only fit in the connector in one orientation. So unless you used an excessive amount of force, it really shouldn't be possible to connect it upside down...."

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Have you removed that cover and the screws that attach the card to the pci bracket?
 
For my 290X, I got this kit, which fits nicely with the Arctic Accelero Xtreme kit: GELID Solutions > Products

Thanks! Is your VRM on the same side as the GPU or on the opposite site of the card? I have an Nvidia GTX 960 and just wondering if the Accelero Extreme 4 will leave space for additional heatsinks on the VRM if its on the same side of the card as the GPU.

Edit: Are you running the Noctuas of your GPU or the motherboard headers?
 
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The one I drew the red square around.

I can't view that image... it's blocked for some reason.

But, I see what you meant when I just checked the case back side... I still had that little cover plate on there which prevented the 1080 from coming out... DOH, DOH, DOH.............. Got the 1080 off the MB, but even w/ the card removed I can't see/get to the 1080 power cable where it inserts into the SF600... I'm thinking lots of components will have to be removed to get to it... :(

But, based on comments from several folks besides yourself, no one seems to think I could have gotten that 1080 power cable upside down into the Corsair PS... so I'm thinking of just booting it up....
 
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Thanks! Is your VRM on the same side as the GPU or on the opposite site of the card? I have an Nvidia GTX 960 and just wondering if the Accelero Extreme 4 will leave space for additional heatsinks on the VRM if its on the same side of the card as the GPU.

Edit: Are you running the Noctuas of your GPU or the motherboard headers?
My solution is based on my card, a reference Radeon 290X. It's by no means a universal solution and I have no experience with a GTX 960. My 290X can consume up to 275W of power, a GTX 960 is about half that, so I wouldn't expect the VRM part to need the heatsinks. I ran without for a while until I noticed the VRMs went over 90°C too regularly. On the reference 290X the VRMs are on the same side as the GPU core and memory.

The Noctua fans are powered by the on-board header (mini PWM or what it's called) on the GPU, with an adapter from that tiny connector to two 4-pin fan headers. The fan profile is set with MSI Afterburner.
 
My solution is based on my card, a reference Radeon 290X. It's by no means a universal solution and I have no experience with a GTX 960. My 290X can consume up to 275W of power, a GTX 960 is about half that, so I wouldn't expect the VRM part to need the heatsinks. I ran without for a while until I noticed the VRMs went over 90°C too regularly. On the reference 290X the VRMs are on the same side as the GPU core and memory.

The Noctua fans are powered by the on-board header (mini PWM or what it's called) on the GPU, with an adapter from that tiny connector to two 4-pin fan headers. The fan profile is set with MSI Afterburner.

I understand. How did you detect the VRM temperature? I haven't discovered a sensor showing the data.
 
Oh boy, do yourself a favor and get rid of that Magicool Pump / Res immediately.

Mine leaked on the top. After i fixed it with Silikon, the glass cracked on its own out of nothing (see Picture). I was lucky nothing got damaged.

BluehandsTech Magicool leaked as well. Sadly he was not so lucky. His Titan X died.

Get the Heatkiller from "Watercool" HEATKILLER® Tube 100 DDC - Watercool Store

Its made of gorgeous quality, feels very solid, and its so easy to fill. Don't forget the Mounting kit and the Pump. You have to order those separately.

But nice Build after all!!

A few posts back, you can see my build with the Heatkiller. Or check it here Dropbox - M1

Cheers.


Really nice build overall! Congrats. I actually had to replace the magicool pump/res combo anyway as it didn't fit exactly as I wanted it to. Getting a EK pump/res now.
 
Yes excactly.

I just used doubleside tape and cableties to mount it on the PSU.

Your build has in part inspired me to use an internal reservoir. My parts have been in transit for more than a month but hopefully I can rebuild by the end of this week!
I'm not quite there yet with the hard-tubing. I don't want to have to buy new fittings, tools etc.

But for future reference: Any tips? What would you have done differently?
 
asus-vrm-load-645x396.jpg


On the lower right, 290x have built in vrm sensor.

I had a look and the VRM sensors aren't listed automatically on mine. But I also could find a way to change the settings. Do you have a suggestion where I can change the in GPU-Z?
 
I had a look and the VRM sensors aren't listed automatically on mine. But I also could find a way to change the settings. Do you have a suggestion where I can change the in GPU-Z?

Did you check the sensor tab in settings for GPU-Z? Sorry I have never owned a 290X, I had just read that they had built in sensors and have seen several people post on their temps using GPU-Z.
 
Did you check the sensor tab in settings for GPU-Z? Sorry I have never owned a 290X, I had just read that they had built in sensors and have seen several people post on their temps using GPU-Z.

I have a GTX 960 and am just wondering if it even has a VRM sensor. Yes, I clicked the sensor tab and there is nothing listed. But are they listed automatically if they exist? I see no options to choose other sensors.
 
I have a GTX 960 and am just wondering if it even has a VRM sensor. Yes, I clicked the sensor tab and there is nothing listed. But are they listed automatically if they exist? I see no options to choose other sensors.

According to what I have read there were some nvidia kepler cards that had vrm sensors, but most of the newer ones do not have sensors. I know neither my 970 nor my 1070 have vrm tenp sensors.

The large majority of the R9 290X had sensors, but apparently not all of them. Check HWInfo also to see if it displays vrm temps.
 
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