LG C1 & Samsung QN90A: Experiences?

B6 user here. I can safely say that running the OLED backlight at too high will cause long-term wear problems. I'm running at 30 now, where I used to run at 100. As for static content, as long as the backlight isn't blaring and you don't have a UI up completely uninterrupted, you should be fine.
I'd add that running in HDR mode should be fine as the brightness is controlled for SDR content using the Windows SDR slider. Since OLED can do per pixel dimming you will have a similar brightness to SDR if you adjust the display for that using the Windows slider. I measured that a 7% value on my display gave me the 120 nits I normally use. So with HDR even though the setting for OLED backlight is at 100 it does not mean those pixels are running at 100% brightness unless watching HDR content and even there it will vary a lot.

But for desktop use it's generally best to go for low brightness.
 
I'd add that running in HDR mode should be fine as the brightness is controlled for SDR content using the Windows SDR slider. Since OLED can do per pixel dimming you will have a similar brightness to SDR if you adjust the display for that using the Windows slider. I measured that a 7% value on my display gave me the 120 nits I normally use. So with HDR even though the setting for OLED backlight is at 100 it does not mean those pixels are running at 100% brightness unless watching HDR content and even there it will vary a lot.

But for desktop use it's generally best to go for low brightness.
Best part about OLED is that even at OLED light of 100, black is still black.
 
if you buy through best buy and get geek squad extended warranty, it covers burn in. This is the only extended warranty I'm aware of that covers burn in

Or, I've heard you can call LG, and they will do a free one-time panel swap.
 
Only reason I don't go OLED anymore is that I have a massive amount of light to deal with:


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Luckily the Best Buy protection plan is "only" $700 for 5 years. While not exactly cheap, that extra $ will be long forgotten in a few years and it'll give me the peace of mind not to be paranoid all the time. This TV will basically be my entertainment center, work monitor, game monitor, etc.
That doesn't sound right. It was only $150-200 for the C8 I bought 3 years ago.
Only reason I don't go OLED anymore is that I have a massive amount of light to deal with:


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For such a videophile-sounding person I figured you would have blackout curtains.
 
He's buying the 77" version which costs a lot more. The warranty is based on price.

Yup, there's a pretty substantial jump for the larger models. The 65" model is still $500, too. At least at BB, the 65" model is $1200 less, so I'm tempted to go with that one anyway. That's the same size of TV I have right now. We have a 77" Sony at work that looks pretty amazing, but $1200 is $1200.
 
Yup, there's a pretty substantial jump for the larger models. The 65" model is still $500, too. At least at BB, the 65" model is $1200 less, so I'm tempted to go with that one anyway. That's the same size of TV I have right now. We have a 77" Sony at work that looks pretty amazing, but $1200 is $1200.

You could try to get a CX, instead of C1. There isn't a big difference between the two.

I tried really hard to get a 77" G1 but they were constantly sold out and I eventually gave up and got a 77" GX for $1000 cheaper. I'm glad I did.
 
Ha! Apparently since it's my birthday month, Best Buy is discounting certain items by 10%. The TV doesn't qualify, but the protection plan does. Guess I'll take what I can get.
 
Not worth saving $50 to get someone else's man handled/rejected panels.

Yeah, I'm all for open box with certain items, but not a TV or big ticket item. Especially not one that's so big it's challenging to return and has a known weakness.
 
Wow, if you can seriously get the CX $1000 cheaper than a C1... that's a pretty easy decision. There isn't THAT much difference.
 
Welp, I'm up and running on a new 65" C1. Going to take me a while to figure everything out. Initially I suspected that Gsync wouldn't work through my AV receiver, but it turns out that it DOES work as long as you keep the color space in YCbCr420. You have to change the color space on the TV and in that format, a lot of games never do seem to look right. It also doesn't like when you run anything with HDR and Atmos at the same time. One of the two straight up won't work.

It's going to take me a while to get all of the colors and whatnot configured. Out of the box I'd say the colors are duller than I'm used to. I do appreciate that when the set detect HDR, it goes into a pre-set HDR color scheme that's actually pretty good looking by default. With my older Samsung, that was entirely manual.

Is there some way to keep the screen from automatically dimming whenever there is a lot of white onscreen? It's kinda jarring and I've turned off every "automatic" setting I can find. It doesn't always happen, but it seems to happen in the Windows UI constantly.
 
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Welp, I'm up and running on a new 65" C1. Going to take me a while to figure everything out. Initially I suspected that Gsync wouldn't work through my AV receiver, but it turns out that it DOES work as long as you keep the color space in YCbCr420. You have to change the color space on the TV and in that format, a lot of games never do seem to look right. It also doesn't like when you run anything with HDR and Atmos at the same time. One of the two straight up won't work.

It's going to take me a while to get all of the colors and whatnot configured. Out of the box I'd say the colors are duller than I'm used to. I do appreciate that when the set detect HDR, it goes into a pre-set HDR color scheme that's actually pretty good looking by default. With my older Samsung, that was entirely manual.

Is there some way to keep the screen from automatically dimming whenever there is a lot of white onscreen? It's kinda jarring and I've turned off every "automatic" setting I can find. It doesn't always happen, but it seems to happen in the Windows UI constantly.
You need a service remote to access the firmware options and disable ASBL. There are instructions on what remote you need and how to do it buried somewhere in the 48CX thread. Just be cognizant of the increased burn-in risk from leaving static white images on the screen if you go this route.
 
Hey all, I recently bought FV43U VA monitor but I'm thinking about chaniging it to LG C1 48" but one thing is holding me back. I have already OLED 55" CX in my living room but every time I connect / disconnect my PC or even turn it off - I need to set the HDMI setting to PC as the TV keeps reseting it. Would any of C1 owners be able to confirm if this is not the issue with C1's ?

Thanks.
 
Hey all, I recently bought FV43U VA monitor but I'm thinking about chaniging it to LG C1 48" but one thing is holding me back. I have already OLED 55" CX in my living room but every time I connect / disconnect my PC or even turn it off - I need to set the HDMI setting to PC as the TV keeps reseting it. Would any of C1 owners be able to confirm if this is not the issue with C1's ?

Thanks.

Mine retains all of the settings from prior uses without any issues. Even through my amp, but also when plugged directly into the TV.
 
That is absolutely not happening to me with my CX. Not even if I unplug and replug the hdmi cable while fiddling with things. There's got to be a fixable issue there with your setup.
 
That is absolutely not happening to me with my CX. Not even if I unplug and replug the hdmi cable while fiddling with things. There's got to be a fixable issue there with your setup.
Same. My CX55 retains my settings.
 
Hey all, I recently bought FV43U VA monitor but I'm thinking about chaniging it to LG C1 48" but one thing is holding me back. I have already OLED 55" CX in my living room but every time I connect / disconnect my PC or even turn it off - I need to set the HDMI setting to PC as the TV keeps reseting it. Would any of C1 owners be able to confirm if this is not the issue with C1's ?

Thanks.
Not happening on my C9 or CX.

You could try this: Disconnect the port you are using, then go to Home dashboard and change it to PC, then reconnect. Maybe that will retain the setting. Otherwise try a different cable.
 
Thank you guys. That sounds good. Think I need to play withe the settings but I only used my CX a few time as PC screen as it's in my living room so didn't bother to go extra mile with the settings.

I think I'll get the LG C1 48" as my main PC monitor but as I'll be working a lot with word / excel / web on this screen, what's your experience with burn-in ?

I have really done a long long research and every source is a mixed state - some people are sayng they get burn in quickly where others claim to have no burn in after months of use as PC monitor.

One thing I'm sure about is that I'll be using this screen in a dark room 90% of the time with brightness at 20% - 30% so even if I'll have a lot of static images for a few hours a day but with varied content and screensaver in between, do you think it will be safe to use with no huge burn in issue ?
 
Thank you guys. That sounds good. Think I need to play withe the settings but I only used my CX a few time as PC screen as it's in my living room so didn't bother to go extra mile with the settings.

I think I'll get the LG C1 48" as my main PC monitor but as I'll be working a lot with word / excel / web on this screen, what's your experience with burn-in ?

I have really done a long long research and every source is a mixed state - some people are sayng they get burn in quickly where others claim to have no burn in after months of use as PC monitor.

One thing I'm sure about is that I'll be using this screen in a dark room 90% of the time with brightness at 20% - 30% so even if I'll have a lot of static images for a few hours a day but with varied content and screensaver in between, do you think it will be safe to use with no huge burn in issue ?
I've used the CX for a year now as a desktop monitor. No burn in. I am a web developer so I typically have an IDE, a few browsers, terminal, Slack/Teams/Outlook etc open on several virtual desktops. I use dark modes where I can. I am not sure if Word and Excel offer that but if they don't then that might be an issue in the long run.
 
I have a CX 65" in my living room and love it. I went out and bought the C1 and had it for about 2 weeks before taking it back for the Asus PG43UQ. While the C1 was good and everything, I am not willing to compromise anything to make it work for my PC monitor. Why should I have to make my background black? Why should I have to hide my taskbar? Why do I need to kick in the screensaver after a few minutes? Too many compromises to make it work, so I took it back. I also hated the auto dimming when I'm on a webpage. It was very distracting. I tried the PG43UQ for about 3 weeks trying to force myself to like it. It was ok but picture was laggy when I'm browsing on here, I could see the yellow lettering lag as I scroll up and down on this page. The color shift was very annoying as it'sa typical VA issue when looking at an angle. It was just as fast in game as the C1 with no input noticeable lag.

I gave up on it and tried the QN90A. I managed to find an open box and when I said open box, it was an open box. I got it for $1100 and yes the blacks were as black as the C1. It also blows away the C1 in terms of colors. Gsync works and I can see the picture is fine at any angle unlike the PG43UQ. I also have a bright room as well, but I was never bother by it when I used the C1. There is on some occasion black crush when my mouse cursor became grey instead of white. There was some slight halo effects and I didn't really see any blooming. It's just as fast as the C1 in game with no input lag or ghosting so far. Now I have a monitor that I can treat as a monitor with no compromises needed to make it work as a pc monitor. Ok there is one compromise, I do have to manually turn the tv on and off as I usually turn it off at night.
 
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Hey Guys, Cable/connection question.

How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?

If so please suggest cable/Adapter's

Thanks
 
I had both.

The LG C1 was returned almost immediately. Maxing out the brightness & oled brightness it still looked dim. It just didn't have the bright punch I wanted. Even in a dim room. The whites aren't really white they have a dim greyish look to them. I really disliked it instantly. Not to mention the burn in requirment none of which I want to perform. It is not a montior for me, never will be.

The QN90A was a beast. The bright beautiful colorful HDR picture literally made my jaw drop in awe. I think it is the best large format gaming experience you can get right now. Contrast is amazing, blacks are deep black, bright highlights are unbeatable, peak brightness full screen & specular are unbeatable, input lag & response time are competitive enough with the fastest monitors or tvs. It really has almost no faults. I did notice a text issue where it looked like there were artifacts above or below text which is the reason I returned it, otherwise it was for sure a keeper. I'm still heartbroken about it as I loved it so much. The other Samsung QN90A thread is investigating whether or not my sample is isolated or it is universal in all. Other than that single problem of text I'm having withdrawals as I just returned it today. I know nothing can compete with the HDR experience I had with the QN90A on 100 brightness in HDR was on another level, just amazing.
 
I compared the C1 and the QN85A and preferred the QN85A. I do think the image is a little more pure with the OLED but the problem is my sitting distance is only about 25-30 inches. Whites shift to cyan tint in the 1/3 left and right corners on the bottom half the screen. If I raise the display so I am sitting level with the bottom half the screen, then whites on the top half 1/3 left and right sides will shift whites to a cyan tint. Too distracting for me especially since I do alot of stuff in excel or word and full screen white performance is not really enough for me. I have to raise OLED brightness to something like 85+ to mostly overpower the effect, which degrades the life and increases burn in so...can’t really justify keeping it.

Gaming looks better on the OLED. The MiniLED zones flickering on and off can be somewhat distracting in games because stuff with hair moving tends to trigger the zones rapidly turning on/off. I'd say it's a much poorer gaming display and probably needs a lot more zones. But I only game about 10% of the time on this display so its not a big loss. With a 7 year Costco warranty I can wait until Micro LED comes around and use the QN85A as my primary display for now.
 
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