Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master won't power on - (temporary) solution

You're right. Competitor products have their flaws too, however the MSI X570 Unify and Tomahawk should be good. They don't have all the features, but then again also don't have the cold boot issues.

I was contemplating getting a rev 1.2, but if they are also affected I'll have to buy an MSI board anyway.

You talk about chipset temperatures, but consider this: the thermal pad on the Master is horrible. I, and may others before me have replaced it. This decreases temps by a good 10 degrees Celsius.
 
Is there a way to reset the cmos without taking the battery out? Maybe solder a switch to the battery holder?

This was covered earlier in the thread.

Take a switch with the two wires on it and tape one wire to each side of a small piece of paper or thin cardboard.
Slip the paper under the top battery contact so that the switch must be closed to connect the battery to the contact.

You can drill a hole in a spare slot cover to mount the switch on the rear of the case.

This way you are not modifying the board at all.

ETA: If the battery holder is too tight to fit the paper in, tape one wire end to the top of the battery near the edge.
Then slip the battery in the holder so the tape is under the top contact and pinch the other wire end on top of the
tape and under the top contact at the edge. That way you are only adding the thickness of one piece of celo-tape
and the very small gauge wire ends.

.
 
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There's a much easier way to do that.

Use your small switch, but just use a small piece of paper to insulate the side contact on the battery holder.
Then use one lead from your switch on each side of the paper. That will then use the switch to complete or break
contact with the battery holder contact. You could probably super glue the wires to the piece of paper or thin
cardboard. That way you can just slide it into the battery holder with no changes to the mobo.

In the old days I took a slot cover and drilled a hole in it for a switch. I had the switch wired to a jumper that I used to
replace the clear CMOS jumper on the mobo. That way I had a clear CMOS switch on the back of the system before
they started adding that feature to the mobos on the I/O shield.

I think I still have that slot cover with the switch on it in a parts box someplace. Will post a pic if I find it.

.

Where do you slide the piece of paper?
 
>> Where do you slide the piece of paper?

You want to insulate the top contact from the battery with the paper so it doesn't make contact.
Then you are using the wires from the switch to make the contact instead.

It can be a little tricky to do depending on the style of the battery holder.

Don't short out the battery for long though or it will heat up and kill the battery.
I would say don't try it if it looks like it won't work easily with the style of battery holder you have.

ETA: Just to clarify my warning above..... you are not using the switch to short out the battery.
You never want to have both sides of the battery connected together. I should have said don't short
out the battery while you are messing around to get this done.


battery.jpg
 
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I am very happy that I found this thread :) in the group it's better :)

my x570 aorus master problems started with a "dead" motherboard and a super fast rgb flashing (next to the sound card) + gurgling / farting from the same area. Removing the battery did not help for a while, only after a long time (~ 1h) everything returned to normal.
The rest of the symptoms were the same.

It has happened to me 2 more times since then. as standard every time, without light and sound effects :)
motherboard version 1.0, 3700x, after the first adventure with the defaults + xmp settings

Greetings from Poland

edit: i just found photo from my 1st experience.
 

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BTW I have some good results with following combination:
- F20b
- single bios mode
- every night turning power of "the wall" (I started to live in new apartment and sleeping in noise stoppers so thats why - security reason :p)
And with these I see no problems since almost 3 weeks, before it was failing every week. Ofcourse I am not opening champaign yet but "there's something going on" ;P
This method has been working for me for more than 2 months now :)
I believe that turning power of "the wall" every night is actually doing the trick. Please note that before "the issue" was happening every week or two. This seems to be the best workaround for me, while not perfect (well maybe its a little bit inconvenient) it actually does not cost a thing and "just works" :p
 
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Yo, what’s up guys, so glad to have found this thread as well, as I thought it was my PSU also.
my set up is:
X570 aorus master, 3700x, 32gb 3600 trident z neo CL16, 2070s, 1tb sabrent 4.0 nvme ssd. first time I experienced this issue was just yesterday morning once I woke up, tried turning on pc and it was DEAD, noticed the power LED on the MOBO wasn’t on, and my nzxt fan Hub in my h710 case has a bright led light that illuminates even when the PC is powered OFF, was also not lit up, so I knew it was dead. I tired swapping the psu with a brand new one I had same one also the GX850w seasonic. And still no luck, I finally found this thread and removed the battery behind my gpu and what do you know ! It turns on ! thought I was good until I kept reading the thread and yep, I powered my pc off and and tried turning it on again and dead.... not even after a week or a month like some users, just died even after first go. It’s a shame cause i really like this board and I don’t wanna deal with rma. It really does seem hardware related, I knew I should have gotten the msi tomahawk or even went with the rog strix E X570. Any updates on anyone else with this issue ? I update my bios to f30a and I changed my erp to enabled. I also cleared my cmos while i had the battery removed. So I’m going to try it out today after work ! I’ll keep you guys updated !
 
yeah that's weird and I think new on this thread. Well, with so many people reporting I like to think we're getting closer to a solution :)
Yeah I really hope so, I can’t believe this thread was made around April and still no solution. BTW I came back home flipped the switch to my psu on and turned on my pc with my fingers crossed and it turned on! But I know I’m not in the clear, well I hope I am, but idk, all I did was update the bios and set the epr to enable. Will keep you guys updated...
 
It doesn't feel like we're any closer to a solution. Gigabyte replied to my ticket saying my power strip is faulty. I'm not even using a power strip...

I'm now trying the displayport cable trick. Bought two VESA-certified cables in hopes of fixing the issue. Doubtful this will solve it, but we'll see.

Edit: new reply:
1600428982441.png
 
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Anyone here had some luck with latest BIOS (F30) and ErP enabled?

How are you guys dealing with this? Re-installing CMOS battery a couple of times per week?

Any luck sending the mobo back to Gigabyte?

Due to COVID I've travelled to some other location and haven't been able to use my rig for several months now.
 
Anyone here had some luck with latest BIOS (F30) and ErP enabled?

How are you guys dealing with this? Re-installing CMOS battery a couple of times per week?

Any luck sending the mobo back to Gigabyte?

Due to COVID I've travelled to some other location and haven't been able to use my rig for several months now.
well since it first happened to me a couple days ago, I updated my bios to f30a, and changed my ErP to enable. So far so good, but like others said they’ve updated their bios and changed the Erp to enable also, but it still happens to them after a week or month..., I’m hoping this latest f30a bios update did something maybe, but for now only time will tell.
 
well since it first happened to me a couple days ago, I updated my bios to f30a, and changed my ErP to enable. So far so good, but like others said they’ve updated their bios and changed the Erp to enable also, but it still happens to them after a week or month..., I’m hoping this latest f30a bios update did something maybe, but for now only time will tell.

Nah, already had the issue on F30a.
 
It happend again to me. This time it lasts only two weeks. It is the fifth time now. After the fourth time i switched to single bios mode. Daily or nightly routine for me is also and has ever been to disconnect the power completely. ERP was on as usually. It seems that all these settings have no effect. I am still on F20, but the BIOS version seems to have also no effect to this "no power issue" - yet.

So, yesterday, before i shutdown the system for the night, i played a game on my third screen, which is a TV (connected with HDMI). I rarely use this TV with my PC, but it's always connected. I don't know if it has something to do with the TV which was still switched on when i shutdown the PC, but i will figure it out.

I noticed immediately that the "no power bug" occurred when i saw the onboard power button and the CMOS button on the back are still lit after shutdown. After this, i tested the usb-ports with a simple usb light. Back- and frontpanel ports were powered after shutdown. I could charge my phone on these ports, and it did not charge slowly... hmm...
 
It happend again to me. This time it lasts only two weeks. It is the fifth time now. After the fourth time i switched to single bios mode. Daily or nightly routine for me is also and has ever been to disconnect the power completely. ERP was on as usually. It seems that all these settings have no effect. I am still on F20, but the BIOS version seems to have also no effect to this "no power issue" - yet.

So, yesterday, before i shutdown the system for the night, i played a game on my third screen, which is a TV (connected with HDMI). I rarely use this TV with my PC, but it's always connected. I don't know if it has something to do with the TV which was still switched on when i shutdown the PC, but i will figure it out.

I noticed immediately that the "no power bug" occurred when i saw the onboard power button and the CMOS button on the back are still lit after shutdown. After this, i tested the usb-ports with a simple usb light. Back- and frontpanel ports were powered after shutdown. I could charge my phone on these ports, and it did not charge slowly... hmm...

I'm also curious about that, I wrote here in one of my first post this: (and some people also mentioned cables, etc)

I'll try to isolated the problem but at the moment I'm suspicius about when I connect a second monitor(a samsung-tv hdmi to the displayport) as both times happened next morning after gaming on windows then disconecting restarting to linux, worked fine, (I did use acpi-cpufreq powersave mode on the cpu) shutdown, going to bed and next morning didn't POST, "dead" again.

That and sound are suspicious, as I had one time my sleep on linux didn't work when I was listening to a radio website, it just show a lot of snd messages on the terminal instead.
 
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Hi everyone,

I had exactly the same problem this evening. Did all the checks and also came to the conclusion that it had to be the mb. Exactly the same config as most of you:


Gigabyte GP-AORUS LIQUID COOLER 360
Corsair HX1000i PSU
Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 TI AORUS WATERFORCE EXTR
Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB M.2 SSD
X570 AORUS MASTER
AMD Ryzen 9 3900X processor
G.Skill DDR4 Trident-Z 4x8GB 3200MHz CL16 RGB
Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB M.2 SSD
Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL ROG Certified Black Midi

Started an RMA and I asked my supplier to get in contact with Gigabyte and confront them with the posts on this forum. This supplier is a premium Gigabyte distributor so hopefully he can get more info .
I’ll keep you posted.

Greetings out of Belgium
MrBazzy
 
Gigabyte support completely sucks. I filed one more ticket with my MB (about freezes in bootloader/bios) a month ago -- they answered something like "we'll check" -- no more answers yet.
About this case -- given the reports here, there is high probability that 20pin DP cables could be one of the causes.
When I experienced the issue power scheme was the following:
PC was connected to UPS, every night I switched off the UPS and disconnected it from wall outlet
DP display was permanently directly connected to the wall outlet (same phase). It was always "on"/"suspend", as I used it for laptop. So if my DP cable has a "20th pin", the display provided a power to PC when computer was switched off.
Now I've got a good Eaton UPS and both DP display and PC are connected to it and always under filtered 230 voltage. (Currently I have a B550 MB, but as we already know it is also affected by this bug)
 
Hello everyone,

I just wanted to post that I had the same issue with an X470 Gaming 7 Wifi. It "died" two times on me.
What worries me especially is that it seems that this issue seems to occur more and more often, at least
according to the GB forum and this thread.
I now have an X570 Aorus Master Rev 1.2 but as said above this issue is all too familiar to me.
 
Hello everyone,

I just wanted to post that I had the same issue with an X470 Gaming 7 Wifi. It "died" two times on me.
What worries me especially is that it seems that this issue seems to occur more and more often, at least
according to the GB forum and this thread.
I now have an X570 Aorus Master Rev 1.2 but as said above this issue is all too familiar to me.
do you use Displayport cables/adapters?
 
Actually yes. But I've switched the cable to a certified Displayport cable yesterday when I read that some people
suspect this might be an issue. The cable I used before and indeed on my old mainboard, too was the one
that came with the monitor.
 
Actually yes. But I've switched the cable to a certified Displayport cable yesterday when I read that some people
suspect this might be an issue. The cable I used before and indeed on my old mainboard, too was the one
that came with the monitor.
Please report here if you experience issues with certified cable as well
 
Interesting info on why standard DP cables should not carry power on pin 20.

https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/a1nmej/psa_please_do_not_use_dp_cables_provided_with/

What a cluster-fuck of a design! The DP design spec should define that devices that don't need the power
on the cable to just have no connection or ignore it. Maybe it does and equipment manufacturers are at fault.

Did we ever establish that everybody having this cold boot problem is using DP?


.
 
Interesting info on why standard DP cables should not carry power on pin 20.

https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/a1nmej/psa_please_do_not_use_dp_cables_provided_with/

What a cluster-fuck of a design! The DP design spec should define that devices that don't need the power
on the cable to just have no connection or ignore it. Maybe it does and equipment manufacturers are at fault.

Did we ever establish that everybody having this cold boot problem is using DP?


.
I really find it hard to believe that DP cables are causing this. I (knock on wood) haven’t had this issue recur in months since I changed Windows settings to never sleep / hibernate. No hardware changes, and actually never updated BIOS either. Still F11. I do have a DP ASUS monitor using the same cables I’ve had for years.
 
Hi guys, I haven't posted here at HardForum is quite a while, but am happy to have gotten back into computers the past year or so with my first ever AMD builds. Prior to that, the past 12 or so years, I've always used Intel.

I have the Gigabyte Aorus Master X570 Rev. 1.0. I had a 3900X, but I just sold that a few days ago as I wasn't going to make use of the extra cores and decided to stick with my 3700X.

What are the main issues you guys are having with the MB, and do these issues not happen for all of you, as in, only on some of the MBs?

Anyway, I'm not sure what to do with the X570 MB. I was initially going to hold onto it to use with a Ryzen 47xx or 48xx series CPU, but not sure if I should sell it (If I can get a decent price for it) or keep it? A lot of the features on the MB are a bit overkill for me and I am not likely to use (eg. 3 x NVMe slots, I'm likely to only ever use one) I never really used the 3900X system much, so not sure if I also would have had all the problems that some of you are having with the X570 Master?

If you guys say I should consider selling (if I don't get a good offer, I will keep the MB as I don't want to give it away), would it be worth downgrading to something like a B550 Gigabyte Aorus Master, or should I look at a different brand X570 such as MSI? I hear MSI have some great X570 MBs (I'm not looking to spend too much on one), and I've never used an MSI MB before, so I'd be interested to try MSI out. I normally use Asus 90% of the time and then Gigabyte, Asrock etc. The main thing I'd want is a MB that is good with overclocking RAM as I have a few 32GB kits of Samsung B-Die RAM that I want to try/learn how to overlock. I was also thinking of buying a 64GB kit of Crucial Ballistix E-Die 3200Mhz RAM in 2 x 32GB sticks or 3600Mhz 4 x 16GB density kit. If I were to buy 64GB of Crucial Ballistix, would the 2 x 32GB sticks be better or the 4 x 16GB sticks? What density would be better for Ryzen 3xxx and 4xxx series CPUs?

Here are the kits of RAM I was looking at :

https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-Ballistix-Unbuffered-PC4-19200-BLM2K8G40C18U4BL/dp/B083VMQPMX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JE7IPZ95HIBL&dchild=1&keywords=crucial+ballistix+max&qid=1594902630&sprefix=Crucial+Ballistix+Max,aps,525&sr=8-1&th=1

https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-Ballistix-Unbuffered-PC4-19200-BLM2K8G40C18U4BL/dp/B083VMSRJJ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JE7IPZ95HIBL&dchild=1&keywords=crucial+ballistix+max&qid=1594902630&sprefix=Crucial+Ballistix+Max,aps,525&sr=8-1&th=1

Not sure if you guys would recommend something different/better at a similar price range? Would either of these kits be OK on the X570 Rev. 1.0 Master?
 
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Hi guys, I haven't posted here at HardForum is quite a while, but am happy to have gotten back into computers the past year or so with my first ever AMD builds. Prior to that, the past 12 or so years, I've always used Intel.

I have the Gigabyte Aorus Master X570 Rev. 1.0. I had a 3900X, but I just sold that a few days ago as I wasn't going to make use of the extra cores and decided to stick with my 3700X.

What are the main issues you guys are having with the MB, and do these issues not happen for all of you, as in, only on some of the MBs?

Anyway, I'm not sure what to do with the X570 MB. I was initially going to hold onto it to use with a Ryzen 47xx or 48xx series CPU, but not sure if I should sell it (If I can get a decent price for it) or keep it? A lot of the features on the MB are a bit overkill for me and I am not likely to use (eg. 3 x NVMe slots, I'm likely to only ever use one) I never really used the 3900X system much, so not sure if I also would have had all the problems that some of you are having with the X570 Master?

If you guys say I should consider selling (if I don't get a good offer, I will keep the MB as I don't want to give it away), would it be worth downgrading to something like a B550 Gigabyte Aorus Master, or should I look at a different brand X570 such as MSI? I hear MSI have some great X570 MBs (I'm not looking to spend too much on one), and I've never used an MSI MB before, so I'd be interested to try MSI out. I normally use Asus 90% of the time and then Gigabyte, Asrock etc. The main thing I'd want is a MB that is good with overclocking RAM as I have a few 32GB kits of Samsung B-Die RAM that I want to try/learn how to overlock. I was also thinking of buying a 64GB kit of Crucial Ballistix E-Die 3200Mhz RAM in 2 x 32GB sticks or 3600Mhz 4 x 16GB density kit. If I were to buy 64GB of Crucial Ballistix, would the 2 x 32GB sticks be better or the 4 x 16GB sticks? What density would be better for Ryzen 3xxx and 4xxx series CPUs?

Here are the kits of RAM I was looking at :

https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-Ballistix-Unbuffered-PC4-19200-BLM2K8G40C18U4BL/dp/B083VMQPMX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JE7IPZ95HIBL&dchild=1&keywords=crucial+ballistix+max&qid=1594902630&sprefix=Crucial+Ballistix+Max,aps,525&sr=8-1&th=1

https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-Ballistix-Unbuffered-PC4-19200-BLM2K8G40C18U4BL/dp/B083VMSRJJ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JE7IPZ95HIBL&dchild=1&keywords=crucial+ballistix+max&qid=1594902630&sprefix=Crucial+Ballistix+Max,aps,525&sr=8-1&th=1

Not sure if you guys would recommend something different/better at a similar price range? Would either of these kits be OK on the X570 Rev. 1.0 Master?
The issue seems super sporadic and for me hasnt recurred in months since I turned off windows sleep and hibernate. If I had it to do over I’d go for an MSI Meg ace, but as it is, I’m in no rush to get rid of the board now that it’s seemed to have calmed down for me.
I made no other real changes to my system.
 
Hi, thanks for the reply. I actually use sleep quite a bit on my current Intel system, so it has a problem with sleep (that won't be a good thing for me)? Is sleep or hibernate less problematic? Also, does it matter what CPU you have in the MB for the sleep issues?
 
Hi, thanks for the reply. I actually use sleep quite a bit on my current Intel system, so it has a problem with sleep (that won't be a good thing for me)? Is sleep or hibernate less problematic? Also, does it matter what CPU you have in the MB for the sleep issues?
We can’t produce this at will, so the sleep connection is just a best guess at this point on my end since I changed nothing else and my issue stopped. Are you having this problem with your board? If not- I really wouldn’t worry about it if you already have it installed. I would just avoid buying a new one personally.
 
I have received several responses on my Gigabyte ticket. They ask, in a way of troubleshooting, to check the following things:
- Try running a different PSU
- Flash both BIOS'es to the same one
- Check the amount of connected USB devices and confirm that they do not near or exceed the maximum output current of the PSU's 5v USB standby power

Since I am now running the VESA certified DP-cables, I'm holding off on any other solutions. I am already running the same BIOS version on both chips. It will most likely be weeks or even months before we'll be able to confirm if the DP-cables do the trick. It is very important that the people who have switched to VESA certified cables, keep us updated if the issue should arise again. Also be absolutely certain that your new cables are certified. It's not because a brand has certified cables, that all of their cables have been certified. You need to specifically check the SKU and buy the correct certified cable!

I'm using four USB-ports: mouse, keyboard, usb-passthrough on the keyboard, microphone. I'm not sure how to check what these things added up come to in a matter of 5v USB standby power.
 
Personally I don't think it's the Display port cable (but as said above, I switched mine to a certified one, just on the off chance that it is indeed the culprit) simply because I would expect other issues to appear before, like a flickering/flashing screen, damaged GPU, etc...
The PSU is an interesting point but as I had the same issue with my x470 gaming 7 wifi and actually *did* test two different PSUs (HX 850i and an RMI850) I do not think that this is the likely culprit.
And I wouldn't expect USB devices to be the culprit either because I'm only using a mouse and keyboard (just like I had on my old system). Ok, granted, I do use an external SSD for backups but that is only temporarily plugged in.
The idea of making sure that both BIOS versions are the same is interesting, as removing the CMOS battery does clear the CMOS. So it could be garbage values being present which could lead to issues.
So, well, one might give that a try, too.

Then again, maybe at the end it was indeed the DP cable, it's not like that this was any serious investment (and even if it was, I'd rather have a rock stable system).
 
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I doubt only those USB items you have connected are the issue. You should be able to use a bunch of your ports without issue.

I also don't think it's the Display Port cable. That sounds a bit silly to me, but I guess I could be wrong.

How do you update the second BIOS to the same one? I actually think that this could be a possibility and updating both to the same version might make a difference. Are you guys using the latest official released BIOS?

Also, which of those two kits of Crucial RAM do you guys think would be better on the Aorus Master? Dual channel 32GB density sticks or 4 x 16GB density sticks? What generally runs better on Ryzen? I am assuming less sticks is better, but not sure if the larger density is an issue?
 
Personally I don't think it's the Display port cable (but as said above, I switched mine to a certified one, just on the off chance that it is indeed the culprit) simply because I would expect other issues to appear before, like a flickering/flashing screen, damaged GPU, etc...
The PSU is an interesting point but as I had the same issue with my x470 gaming 7 wifi and actually *did* test two different PSUs (HX 850i and an RMI850) I do not think that this is the likely culprit.
And I wouldn't expect USB devices to be the culprit either because I'm only using a mouse and keyboard (just like I had on my old system). Ok, granted, I do use an external SSD for backups but that is only temporarily plugged in.
The idea of making sure that both BIOS versions are the same is interesting, as removing the CMOS battery does clear the CMOS. So it could be garbage values being present which could lead to issues.
So, well, one might give that a try, too.

Then again, maybe at the end it was indeed the DP cable, it's not like that this was any serious investment (and even if it was, I'd rather have a rock stable system).
On the PSU front, I initially thought I had a dead PSU, and bought a new one hoping to remedy. The issue recurred on the new unit as well about a month later.
 
[...]
How do you update the second BIOS to the same one? I actually think that this could be a possibility and updating both to the same version might make a difference. Are you guys using the latest official released BIOS?
[...]
QFlash should have a tickbox "flash backup bios" or something along those lines.
 
QFlash should have a tickbox "flash backup bios" or something along those lines.

Thanks. That sounds easy enough.

Edit : When flashing the backup BIOS, do you also have to be updating the primary one at the same time? For example, if you're already running the latest BIOS, can you still go into Qflash and update/backup the secondary BIOS to the current one? I'd check myself, but I don't currently have a CPU for the MB as I sold my 3900X. Still deciding on whether or not to keep the X570 Master or to maybe, possibly put it up for sale and get a cheaper board. I'd like to keep it, but a lot of the features/extras I won't use (eg. I'll probably only ever use one PCIe 4.0 video card, 1 x PCIe 4.0 NVMe drive). I want to hold onto it and try it with the newer Ryzen 4xxx series CPUs, but I also use sleep function quite a bit on my current Intel system, so if I do keep it, hopefully I don't have issues with it.
 
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Thanks. That sounds easy enough.

Edit : When flashing the backup BIOS, do you also have to be updating the primary one at the same time? For example, if you're already running the latest BIOS, can you still go into Qflash and update/backup the secondary BIOS to the current one? I'd check myself, but I don't currently have a CPU for the MB as I sold my 3900X. Still deciding on whether or not to keep the X570 Master or to maybe, possibly put it up for sale and get a cheaper board. I'd like to keep it, but a lot of the features/extras I won't use (eg. I'll probably only ever use one PCIe 4.0 video card, 1 x PCIe 4.0 NVMe drive). I want to hold onto it and try it with the newer Ryzen 4xxx series CPUs, but I also use sleep function quite a bit on my current Intel system, so if I do keep it, hopefully I don't have issues with it.

Just use the switches to set it to single BIOS and choose the BIOS. Name the file Gigabyte.BIN, plug the drive into the correct port for the BIOS and then use Q-flash plus. That way you can update both BIOS-chips. It doesn't have to be at the same time.
 
Hi all,

To confirm, I've had - exactly - the same issues with my Gigabyte Aorus Master (X570) board after one full year of error-free operation - one night over the other and 'wham' no power at all.
Bought a PSU tester that showed nominal values so - PSU not faulty (HX1000i).. so removed all peripherals and any other potential blockers, no result.
Requested an RMA and the MB should be away for 4-6 weeks - SO GLAD I found this topic the night before returning...

I've removed the CMOS battery and waited for 5mins, reinstalled all hardware on the motherboard, reconnected the power and as a magician - the PC booted as if nothing happened. Upgraded my bios to F30.

Alas, three days later - the same story - removed the GPU (RXT2080S), the batteries, waited 5mins and again I was the magician at home...it worked.

Last night, I physically switched to the backup bios and updated the backup bios to F30. Now its wait and see.

My next steps if this happens again:
1) Remove PSU power cord each night (/after last PC use of the day)
2) Follow this thread whether the DP (certified) cable thingy is of influence...

I'm doing one thing at the time to be sure the action had an effect and will report effects after time.

GL all, and to be honest...480$ for a GB mobo - going to AMD + GB after 16 (!) years running Intel + ASUS makes me soooooo f'n angry.....
 
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