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Well if the new bios does not fix things, Idea, option or what I would do if this is a frequent problem:
I think after the third time or so I would have done above until Gigabyte fixed the issue if they ever do. I would probably not RMA the board due to how many others also are having this issue.
- Buy a battery holder and a switch
- something like this that will fit your battery
- https://www.amazon.com/CR2025-CR2032-Button-Battery-Connector/dp/B07PP1MWP2
- Remove battery from motherboard
- Solder two wires to the motherboard battery socket, very small solder points (temporary, you could probably just use alligator clips for this)
- Mount switch and new battery holder to a convenient location (for example: mount on back of case or front, drill small hole for switch with the new battery holder mounted inside. Another example have a small external box holding both if you don't want to put a small hole anywhere)
- Hook it up to the motherboard battery socket and never have to pull anything out or open up your case for this problem
Hi!
I am having the same problem with my Aorus Master. I have a Ryzen 7 3800X. It happened for the first time the other day out of the blue, and I thought it was a Power Supply issue. I actually got a new PSU and found this page when a new PSU didn't solve my issue. I am on BIOS version F20.
Removing the CMOS battery did the trick for me and it worked for around 2 days; but I started having the same issue again. One thing that immediately solves the problem for me is to remove the 24 pin motherboard connector and put it back on, it's certainly better than having to remove the GPU every single time.
I also opened an RMA request but I first need to find another computer I can use for work.
For me, the red power button LED goes off as soon as the computer turns off.
PS: I have one NVM.e SSD, one SATA SSD, and 2 3.5" SATA HDDs connected.
For me it will be easy. My mobo is in RMA for 4 weeks now. I hear nothing so when they return it and the issue happens again I will bring it back to the shop and change it for an Asus...... it will be for me the last time I buy anything from GB..... Giga Brickedso for me, I (unnecessarily) completely swapped my power supply which certainly had me remove the 24 pin connector, but the board was still soft bricked. That lead me to trying the battery removal. I think several others of us have experienced the unnecessary psu swap that didn’t fix the issue.
Very cool and even better.There's a much easier way to do that.
Use your small switch, but just use a small piece of paper to insulate the side contact on the battery holder.
Then use one lead from your switch on each side of the paper. That will then use the switch to complete or break
contact with the battery holder contact. You could probably super glue the wires to the piece of paper or thin
cardboard. That way you can just slide it into the battery holder with no changes to the mobo.
In the old days I took a slot cover and drilled a hole in it for a switch. I had the switch wired to a jumper that I used to
replace the clear CMOS jumper on the mobo. That way I had a clear CMOS switch on the back of the system before
they started adding that feature to the mobos on the I/O shield.
I think I still have that slot cover with the switch on it in a parts box someplace. Will post a pic if I find it.
.
For me it will be easy. My mobo is in RMA for 4 weeks now. I hear nothing so when they return it and the issue happens again I will bring it back to the shop and change it for an Asus...... it will be for me the last time I buy anything from GB..... Giga Bricked
Yeah, I also have a Gigabyte board running my wife’s i7 9700k rig - bought a week before this one. Not a single hiccup.Gigabyte makes amazing intel boards. Their AMD boards have had issues from time to time - I had one of their NF3 boards that violated the DDR2 spec back then and had nothing but stability problems, and I have one of the worst motherboards ever made on a bulldozer system from them (990FX-UD3)... I stick with others for AMD as a result.
Yeah, I also have a Gigabyte board running my wife’s i7 9700k rig - bought a week before this one. Not a single hiccup.
I wish this works for me. What is your boards hw. revision?One thing that immediately solves the problem for me is to remove the 24 pin motherboard connector and put it back on, it's certainly better than having to remove the GPU every single time.
I have one 1TB WD blue and one 2TB Seagate barracuda drive. I also use a 1TB USB Toshiba drive to transfer media around. No issues to report. They are connect to the hot swap bays on my 011 dynamic XL and are seen as removable drive if it matters any.Since we opt out the DualBios as the culprit, it is clear now that the issue always happens on shutdown process (during or immediately after).
hypothesis: during the shutdown process for some reason motherboard powers down before HDD's fully spin down their plates.
While plates are still rotating (spinning down) electric motor rotation is producing electricity, this electricity could then backfire running
into the motherboards electric circuit and eventually triggering some internal circuit protection (ESD, anti-power-surge, name it...)
which as a consequence doesn't allow motherboard to power up ...
So I was wondering if everyone of us have spinning hard drives in the system.
I personally have 2 of them: 14TB Toshiba N300 and 500GB WD VelociRaptor (the real dinosaur, I know)
Just trying to be imaginative here
EDIT: this theory could also apply to EXTERNAL USB enclosures with spinning HDDs.
It's 1.0I wish this works for me. What is your boards hw. revision?
I enabled ErP over 2 months ago and haven't had one single issue, thank the gods! Worth a shot!Oh no, and i hoped that this issue is fixed with the F20 versions...
Do you have ErP enabled? If not, try it with ErP enabled.
This sounds like over-current protection, possibly caused by inrush current (which may be higher with ErP enabled?).The second issue is that the computer won't cold-boot more than once. If I turn it off with ErP enabled, then try to turn it back on, I hear a slight 'tick' sound (similar to a small relay clicking on, then off 1-2s later), and nothing happens. I have to unplug the mains from the PSU for a few seconds, plug it back in, and it starts again normally. I solved it for now by using a remote-controlled on/off switch - at least I don't have to get under my desktop each time to un/replug the mains. This is weird, especially given that my PSU (a Seasonic X-650MK3) is explicitely listing ErP compatibility in its features.
But then I do not understand why the overcurrent protection trips when the computer is turned off, then back on, without unplugging the power cord. The inrush current would be the same regardless when the cord is un/replugged or not before turning the on again.This sounds like over-current protection, possibly caused by inrush current (which may be higher with ErP enabled?).
Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.But then I do not understand why the overcurrent protection trips when the computer is turned off, then back on, without unplugging the power cord. The inrush current would be the same regardless when the cord is un/replugged or not before turning the on again.
Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.
Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.
I don't believe the problem happens at power off, as in all 3 cases my machine was asleep when the problem occurred. When I left the machine the previous night, lights on the memory and onboard power button were on, when I came back the following morning it was completely dead. So in this case the machine had to have lost power when it was asleep. I have only just tried enabling ErP - too early to tell at this point whether it has made a difference. Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
I use APC SmartUPS SMT750I with pure sine wave output on battery. Happened 3 times so far.Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
Interesting. That would be a rather peculiar issue for sure. The only thing I can think about is trying a different configuration in the power distribution cables, especially the PCI-Ex GPU feeders. Otherwise, I see no other option. Given that the exact same PSU worked well with my previous motherboard (an Asus Z87-WS+4770k), I'm very reluctant to burn more money in a new PSU when it could likely be a motherboard issue.Maybe it happens at shut down? That's the only thing I can think of.
Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.Interesting. That would be a rather peculiar issue for sure. The only thing I can think about is trying a different configuration in the power distribution cables, especially the PCI-Ex GPU feeders. Otherwise, I see no other option. Given that the exact same PSU worked well with my previous motherboard (an Asus Z87-WS+4770k), I'm very reluctant to burn more money in a new PSU when it could likely be a motherboard issue.
It’s definitely not a PSU specific issue. While I’ve still only had this happen twice, once was with the original Corsair 850w that I thought had died, and it happened again with the ASUS Thor replacement unit I (needlessly) bought about a month later.Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.
Just to be clear: that's obviously not the "no power" issue playing there (I had that no-power issue, and that's what forced me to turn ErP mode on). It is the ErP mode itself causing that click-no-turnon. Bit somehow I can't help thinking both are linked to some sort of design flaw in the motherboard power subsystem.Yeah, Id suspect the mb first, myself. But it sounds like the PSU might be the issue in this case, at least partly. I never heard a click when my x370 gigabyte board exhibited the no-power issue, and unplugging from mains, clearing cmos, and removing the battery wasn't 100% guarantee of success.
I had an EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 (which is a decent PSU) when it started happening.Hi, sorry to appear out of the blue, but have been lurking for a while now (like more than 20 years). I have the same problem on the X570 Master with a 3950x. Ran for several months with no problems at all, but now have had the no power issue 3 times in maybe 6 weeks. Thanks very much to everyone here for the info in this thread - saved me from a long and probably pointless RMA process. Don't want to go to a different type of board as even with this issue I absolutely love this MB.
I don't believe the problem happens at power off, as in all 3 cases my machine was asleep when the problem occurred. When I left the machine the previous night, lights on the memory and onboard power button were on, when I came back the following morning it was completely dead. So in this case the machine had to have lost power when it was asleep. I have only just tried enabling ErP - too early to tell at this point whether it has made a difference. Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
Out of curiosity, has anyone experiencing this problem been running their system on a reasonably high end UPS? Something with pure sine wave output just to eliminate the possibility that it's caused by external power fluctuations?
So they returned you the same motherboard? Are there any signs of intervention on it?My mobo is back form RMA, they mentioned nothing about what was wrong or what they repaired. Build it in again with the water cooling and it is running smooth (no overclock, just the XMP and ERP enabled.......
I turned it on and off several days now and although my heart rate is a little bit higher when I touch the power button.. no problems so far. Btw, bios is f11..... I think i will stick with this for a wile....
keeping you posted.....
They returned the same mobo, I noticed that they probably have taken of the backplate because some screw were loose, further nothing .... (Bad service to return a board with loose screws...).....So they returned you the same motherboard? Are there any signs of intervention on it?
ErP mode is another name for a state of BIOS power management features that instructs the motherboard to turn off power to all system components, including USB and Ethernet ports meaning your connected devices will not charge while in a low power state.Hi what does ERp ?
Just checking in on everyone, it's been fairly quiet since the new bios has dropped. I can report I have gone almost 3 months without any issues, and all I did was replace the battery, enable ErP and update to the latest bios. I hope everyone is having similar success!
What was wrong with the old one?This is the second time I've had to pull the battery--I replaced it with a new one
Please read through the thread.What was wrong with the old one?