Adventures in 2700X Overclocking

This is in regards to the 5000 series: I want to undervolt --

What is the difference between just setting a cpu vcore offset in the BIOS vs playing around with the curve optimizer in PBO2?
 
This is in regards to the 5000 series: I want to undervolt --

What is the difference between just setting a cpu vcore offset in the BIOS vs playing around with the curve optimizer in PBO2?
general all purpose setting vs finetuned per core
i cant be bothered with the curve.
 
general all purpose setting vs finetuned per core
i cant be bothered with the curve.
I was being lazy and just googled it now.
Apparently curve optimizer applies a sort of vcore offset on its own based on steppings, each step is 3-5mv. You can go to up 30 steppings. It's basically an AI automatically applied algorithm that's more efficient and 'knows better' when and what voltages to apply based on workload than a static cpu vcore offset that never changes.
You can do all core curves too instead of just per core in curve optimizer, btw
 
I was being lazy and just googled it now.
Apparently curve optimizer applies a sort of vcore offset on its own based on steppings, each step is 3-5mv. You can go to up 30 steppings. It's basically an AI automatically applied algorithm that's more efficient and 'knows better' when and what voltages to apply based on workload than a static cpu vcore offset that never changes.
You can do all core curves too instead of just per core in curve optimizer, btw
Curve Optimizer also backs off the offset the higher in clock speed a core goes so it can still achieve the higher clockspeeds when under load. It's not a static offset so it's a balance between power efficiency and speed efficiency.

A static offset is likely to leave performance on the table unlike Curve Optimizer.
 
Curve Optimizer also backs off the offset the higher in clock speed a core goes so it can still achieve the higher clockspeeds when under load. It's not a static offset so it's a balance between power efficiency and speed efficiency.

A static offset is likely to leave performance on the table unlike Curve Optimizer.
I don't know if I really lost the silicon lottery or what, but in YouTube videos on how to use it, most of the presenters say -20 to -30 works for them. For my 5600x, even -3 all core curve errors right away in OCCT (PBO set to auto, passes), and -5 or higher results in a blue screen before Windows even comes up. On reddit people have said even -10 is a conservative undervolt... sad :(
I did just OC my RAM and I lowered my soc vcore and changed some other settings around (but verified complete stability in every regard with that). I wonder if that could play a part in being unable to undervolt using a negative curve now..
My SoC and VDDG are both at 1V. Maybe I'll try upping those next time, even though I'm not sure they're related to a CPU undervolt being unsuccessful, it's just the only things I can think of aside from being unlucky with silicon. But if it can't even do a -3 all core, I probably have the worst binned 5600x out there, lol. Right at barely passing their binning tests :LOL:
(wait a minute! Maybe the higher 1900 FCLK I have is why? I know if you want high IF you need a good CPU sample, right? So higher FCLK=more pressure on the CPU=less ability to undervolt, since part of the CPU communication needs are actually overclocked? OK, now how to compensate for that along with trying to undervolt it is above my head and I just don't care enough to be honest. I was wanting an easy undervolt to lower case thermals, but it's not like my PC is close to being too hot or anything. Not worth any more testing!)
 
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I don't know if I really lost the silicon lottery or what, but in YouTube videos on how to use it, most of the presenters say -20 to -30 works for them. For my 5600x, even -3 all core curve errors right away in OCCT (PBO set to auto, passes), and -5 or higher results in a blue screen before Windows even comes up. On reddit people have said even -10 is a conservative undervolt... sad :(
I did just OC my RAM and I lowered my soc vcore and changed some other settings around (but verified complete stability in every regard with that). I wonder if that could play a part in being unable to undervolt using a negative curve now..
My SoC and VDDG are both at 1V. Maybe I'll try upping those next time, even though I'm not sure they're related to a CPU undervolt being unsuccessful, it's just the only things I can think of aside from being unlucky with silicon. But if it can't even do a -3 all core, I probably have the worst binned 5600x out there, lol. Right at barely passing their binning tests :LOL:
(wait a minute! Maybe the higher 1900 FCLK I have is why? I know if you want high IF you need a good CPU sample, right? So higher FCLK=more pressure on the CPU=less ability to undervolt, since part of the CPU communication needs are actually overclocked? OK, now how to compensate for that along with trying to undervolt it is above my head and I just don't care enough to be honest. I was wanting an easy undervolt to lower case thermals, but it's not like my PC is close to being too hot or anything. Not worth any more testing!)
To be safe make your soc V stock and remove your mem overclock, then do curve optimizer. Also it’s probably your 2 best cores that aren’t stable with -3 offset, so do per core curve optimizer, set the 2 best cores to zero offset then the rest you can negative offset and probably get at least -10 on those. You can find your 2 best cores by using AMD ryzen master. Your 2 best cores are the 2 that windows will always use first so that probably explains why you are unstable and bsod’ing when putting a negative offset on them. AMD already bins those 2 cores higher so they have lower tolerances for less voltage. For example, extensive stability testing revealed my 5900x’s 4 best cores can only take -12 while the other 8 cores can take -30 offset.
 
I don't know if I really lost the silicon lottery or what, but in YouTube videos on how to use it, most of the presenters say -20 to -30 works for them. For my 5600x, even -3 all core curve errors right away in OCCT (PBO set to auto, passes), and -5 or higher results in a blue screen before Windows even comes up. On reddit people have said even -10 is a conservative undervolt... sad :(
I did just OC my RAM and I lowered my soc vcore and changed some other settings around (but verified complete stability in every regard with that). I wonder if that could play a part in being unable to undervolt using a negative curve now..
My SoC and VDDG are both at 1V. Maybe I'll try upping those next time, even though I'm not sure they're related to a CPU undervolt being unsuccessful, it's just the only things I can think of aside from being unlucky with silicon. But if it can't even do a -3 all core, I probably have the worst binned 5600x out there, lol. Right at barely passing their binning tests :LOL:
(wait a minute! Maybe the higher 1900 FCLK I have is why? I know if you want high IF you need a good CPU sample, right? So higher FCLK=more pressure on the CPU=less ability to undervolt, since part of the CPU communication needs are actually overclocked? OK, now how to compensate for that along with trying to undervolt it is above my head and I just don't care enough to be honest. I was wanting an easy undervolt to lower case thermals, but it's not like my PC is close to being too hot or anything. Not worth any more testing!)
Trust me, I know about losing the silicon lottery. My 5800x is definitely not the best. I did a lot of stability testing for a per core offset and found most of my cores, including my "good" ones are -10 to -15. A couple will do -20 with one core doing no more than -5. I also cannot do more than +150 on boost or the system is unstable and it rarely hits that anyway.

That said, I'm not convinced all the people saying they are doing -20 and -30 are actually stable. It would require pure 100% golden samples to do that and be stable. When I first started messing with CO I did all-core CO offsets for initial testing to make things more simple. At that time it seemed like I might have a decent sample since -15 and maybe -20 offsets looked stable with initial short tests. Once I started going for per core offsets and testing longer to make sure of stability I found most of those offsets were not even close to stable. The one core which can't handle more than a -5 offset shows that and it's not one of the "good" cores.

For me, it's quite important to make sure the CPU is stable at all times and under all loads. I do encoding and run distributed computing projects so full stability is required, especially when all cores are working. Heavy, sustained all core loads are more likely to show up problems and if most people aren't pushing loads like that they may very well not be seeing the instability that is present especially if the cores which have problems are rarely used.
 
This weekend i did a forced upgrade to windows 11 (windows assistant) but i still have 1 whea error in hw info.When i run windows scanner from windows security and superantispyware free full scan at the same time, then i get that whea error.
Can someone try and run at the same time a full scan from windows security and superantispyware full scan with high priority and look at hwinfo,do you also get that whea error?
I tried everything, the default cpu clock and always the same, now the same is the case with windows 11.
With default it is even worse because to me,according to hwinfo the processor jumps out of those some percentage parameters, as if trotling, it displays hw info, as if too much bust clocks...

One processor with 8 cores should work without problems with two different programs, you can also try combinations of windows security full scan and full scan malwarebytes at the same time, so let me know how it went ... because I don't know if I have a problem with the processor (oc ), motherboard, etc. or it happens with all ryzen processors ...
 
This weekend i did a forced upgrade to windows 11 (windows assistant) but i still have 1 whea error in hw info.When i run windows scanner from windows security and superantispyware free full scan at the same time, then i get that whea error.
Can someone try and run at the same time a full scan from windows security and superantispyware full scan with high priority and look at hwinfo,do you also get that whea error?
I tried everything, the default cpu clock and always the same, now the same is the case with windows 11.
With default it is even worse because to me,according to hwinfo the processor jumps out of those some percentage parameters, as if trotling, it displays hw info, as if too much bust clocks...

One processor with 8 cores should work without problems with two different programs, you can also try combinations of windows security full scan and full scan malwarebytes at the same time, so let me know how it went ... because I don't know if I have a problem with the processor (oc ), motherboard, etc. or it happens with all ryzen processors ...
they are probably hitting a dll or something at the same time and freak windows out. dont scan with two at once, which is weird anyways...
thread is also about overclocking the 2700x...
 
I know,it says that the cpu is a whea error, the error is related to the cpu, so if anyone wants to try if the same thing happens to him...
 
New bios finally arrived, 4.30, again just some agesa, I don't know what it is, I guess for the new ram support only...they didn't fix anything again
I still have a problem with slow booting, it takes 2-5 minutes to get into windows, they haven't solved it yet.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/amd/b450m steel legend/#BIOS1

I also have a problem sometimes getting 5 short beeps:

5 Short Beeps
Five short beeps mean there has been a processor error. A damaged expansion card, the CPU, or the motherboard could be prompting this AMI beep code.Start by reseating the CPU. If that doesn't work, try reseating any expansion cards. Chances are, however, the CPU needs replaced.

Either the processor burned out when I tested it with avx2 or the motherboard is faulty, it is possible that it loses the signal somewhere if the CPU cooler squeezed it too much, the motherboard looks too clean, or maybe nvme ssd... i don't know how to check it and what the problem is...
A bunch of fixes for windows 11 have already come out and the slow boot should already be fixed.
They don't have any contact addresses to contact asrock and ask what the problem is?
This first and second generation ryzen is really rubbish.
I still have a sound card but i don't believe it would create a problem.
 
The 2700X also obsoleted a bunch of Haswell and Skylake X parts...
He also loses to the i5 8400 in games...
When will the games come that these 8 cores mean something to the ryzen 2700x, obviously never ...Microsoft is always in favor of Intel
 
He also loses to the i5 8400 in games...
When will the games come that these 8 cores mean something to the ryzen 2700x, obviously never
I remember playing Far Cry 5 and various other contemporary games back in late 2018 on a 2700X and they used all eight cores...

...Microsoft is always in favor of Intel
They were nicknamed wintel for a reason.
 
He also loses to the i5 8400 in games...
When will the games come that these 8 cores mean something to the ryzen 2700x, obviously never ...Microsoft is always in favor of Intel

And thanks to parts like the 2700x, Intel's i7 lineup moved to 8C/16T for a few generations.

I don't think anyone would have told you that the 2700x would have out performed CFL CPUs just because of the 2 cores. And by the time games were multithreaded enough to show performance increases with 8 cores vs 6 cores, both CPUs would be irrelevant.
 
Well, I have nothing against Intel, I just fell under the influence of one forum before, to see if amd works, and nothing works ... just to try, and I've already prepared everything for the purchase of i5 10400f which is a better processor than amd 2700x overall
i5 8400f to i5 12400f are real gaming processors and they won't rob you so much for money.
 
Well, I have nothing against Intel, I just fell under the influence of one forum before, to see if amd works, and nothing works ... just to try, and I've already prepared everything for the purchase of i5 10400f which is a better processor than amd 2700x overall
i5 8400f to i5 12400f are real gaming processors and they won't rob you so much for money.

What motherboard do you have? I mean if you already have an AM4 motherboard, you should update the bios and add a 5600x instead of a 8400 or 12400, especially if you have to buy a new motherboard to use either of those. The 5600x will out perform the 8400/10400 but will be slightly behind a 12400.

It's the cheapest option by far as long as your motherboard supports it.
 
What motherboard do you have? I mean if you already have an AM4 motherboard, you should update the bios and add a 5600x instead of a 8400 or 12400, especially if you have to buy a new motherboard to use either of those. The 5600x will out perform the 8400/10400 but will be slightly behind a 12400.

It's the cheapest option by far as long as your motherboard supports it.
Sometimes 5-10 minutes I have to wait to get into the windows ... With Intel it would be in 9 seconds ...
It doesn't pay to change anything anymore, it's just too expensive, if the prices fall I'll buy an rx 6700xt gpu ...
I have a computer from the signature ... I've already lost too much on graphics cards so I can't switch to 5600x, it's too expensive ....
 
Does secure boot affect ignition timing? When I press restart during loading, ie when it is constantly spinning and does not enter, then after restarting the button on the case, it enters immediately
How is that possible?
 
Sometimes 5-10 minutes I have to wait to get into the windows ... With Intel it would be in 9 seconds ...
It doesn't pay to change anything anymore, it's just too expensive, if the prices fall I'll buy an rx 6700xt gpu ...
I have a computer from the signature ... I've already lost too much on graphics cards so I can't switch to 5600x, it's too expensive ....

5-10 minute Windows boot is a software problem not a hardware one.

If you're thinking of upgrading to a whole new CPU/MB anyway, you'd save money by just buying a 5600x instead of a CPU AND a motherboard.

I'd start by reinstalling Windows. No reason that setup shouldn't be better than that. My mother's 1700x based computer is faster than that.
 
5-10 minute Windows boot is a software problem not a hardware one.

If you're thinking of upgrading to a whole new CPU/MB anyway, you'd save money by just buying a 5600x instead of a CPU AND a motherboard.

I'd start by reinstalling Windows. No reason that setup shouldn't be better than that. My mother's 1700x based computer is faster than that.
I tried everything, I don't know what it is, is it hardware or software .... I don't know what else to try ...
Sometimes it boots up fast but a lot more cases it is a slow boot, the bios is the latest and everything is up to date...
 
I tried everything, I don't know what it is, is it hardware or software .... I don't know what else to try ...
Sometimes it boots up fast but a lot more cases it is a slow boot, the bios is the latest and everything is up to date...

Did you do a fresh install of Windows?

Is your memory stable?

What happens when you remove the add-on cards and use minimal USB devices and only the boot SSD?

I've built probably 15-20 different Ryzen systems and have never had one take more than 30 seconds to boot into Windows.
 
Did you do a fresh install of Windows?

Is your memory stable?

What happens when you remove the add-on cards and use minimal USB devices and only the boot SSD?

I've built probably 15-20 different Ryzen systems and have never had one take more than 30 seconds to boot into Windows.
Yes, yes, no....
I have only 1 kingston v300 240gb, I didn't say that ...And those first v300 240gb, later they broke them, they put some worse parts ....
 
Yes, yes, no....
I have only 1 kingston v300, I didn't say that ...

Is the drive healthy? Could be some sort of drive error causing that kind of behavior.

Might be worth grabbing a cheap m.2 OEM pull from ebay to test it out. I see SN530 Western Digital drives there all the time for cheap or the Samsung non-retail units.
 
Well, chipset drivers are the latest, asus sound card I don't think it matters even though there are no win 11 drivers but only win 10 ...
The only downside is that I can't put it in the slot 1x slot because it bothers me nvme cooler
But the slow boot was also with realtek integrated
 
Well, chipset drivers are the latest, asus sound card I don't think it matters even though there are no win 11 drivers but only win 10 ...
The only downside is that I can't put it in the slot 1x slot because it bothers me nvme cooler
But the slow boot was also with realtek integrated
where do you see the slowness, at the post screen or the windows loading screen?
 
where do you see the slowness, at the post screen or the windows loading screen?
Do you know that little circle of dots, that circle has been spinning for a very long time...i believe on windows loading screen
I will change the sata cable, there is a lot of air and free space on the sata slot from the motherboard but also from the disk ...
But I write and read neatly from the ssd disk...
 
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Do you know that little circle of dots, that circle has been spinning for a very long time...i believe on windows loading screen
k. thats were i get mine. just checking it wasnt a post delay or drive search slowing it down. odd it happens only with one drive connected. do you have another spare drive to do a test install on? have you disabled the extra i/o crap in the bios? tried toggling fastboot?
 
k. thats were i get mine. just checking it wasnt a post delay or drive search slowing it down. odd it happens only with one drive connected. do you have another spare drive to do a test install on? have you disabled the extra i/o crap in the bios? tried toggling fastboot?
So that circle and black background, and then when it finally finishes and twists, then comes the window where I type the pin and then it immediately enters the windows...
Fast boot always disable in bios, bios is curently on auto,most of parameters... I have another sata disk or AHCI sata, with a try with that or to throw this kingston out completely?
I have never tried fast boot enabled in bios...
 
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I have never had a problem with shut down, it always works quickly ....
Now I don't have a single game on the disc and it's not jammed at all ...
 
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