42" OLED MASTER THREAD

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jarablue said:
Yes. I bought that exact same remote. I was able to get into the service menu with it!
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Sweet. Imma get one too. Thank you very much!

jarablue said:
With the 4090 getting 16fps in cyberpunk cindi lauper edition, I am in no rush to upgrade my C2. 120hertz is fine for me atm.
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Ikr? Path tracing update to coming the 11th. RIP 4090 lol. 120hz is fine … fast enough for Apex (for me) and love the real estate of the C2 vs an uw … although I was eyeballing that 45” LG gaming display.. for RPGs I like the full 4k height …. Really happy with the C2.
 
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I was visiting a friends house last week and he had a LG G9 65" TV that had cool artwork with frames as his screen saver. I haven't seen anything like that on my C2. It has some modern art when it goes into screensaver mode but no fake frame (which was actually pretty cool because it looked real on certain images).

Is it possible to get the screensaver that was on my friends G9 on my C2 42" OLED?"
 
Best Buy cock suckers had the LG C2 for $900 for a single day then jacked it to $1000.

Missed it of course. Every place I have looked online has it for $1000.
 
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Epyon said:
Yeah the 42 inch. Refurbished makes me nervous. Have they ever been turn on and used or just returned?
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The one that I got looked brand new, I couldn't find anything showing the box was opened but I forgot to check the screen on time. It has a 2 year warranty through allstate. I ended up returning mine but it seems to go on sale often. It was $699 refirb at woot 22 days ago.
 
The screen time doesn't tell you how far down the emitters have burned and been re energized back to normal by the wear evening routines.

It's like having a phone battery that you can't see the remaining charge of. The time the screen has been on could be listed, and lower is better, but that doesn't tell you what brightness level was used and what static content durations have been shown which would burn through that battery faster.

As far as I know there us no way to tell how much energizing/wear evening buffer has been used or what range of it remains on any oled tvs, even in service menu.

Just something to consider.
 
elvn said:
The screen time doesn't tell you how far down the emitters have burned and been re energized back to normal by the wear evening routines.

It's like having a phone battery that you can't see the remaining charge of. The time the screen has been on could be listed, and lower is better, but that doesn't tell you what brightness level was used and what static content durations have been shown which would burn through that battery faster.

As far as I know there us no way to tell how much energizing/wear evening buffer has been used or what range of it remains on any oled tvs, even in service menu.

Just something to consider.
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I’ve read that current OLED panels (evo model) are good for nearly 100,000 hours — so panel robustness and longevity has very much been increased since the beginning and introduction of the panel tech almost a decade ago. With that in mind - we shouldn’t be so worried about lifespan…. The c2 isn’t even old enough to make much of a dent in 100,000 hours even if it was on all day.
 
Archaea said:
I’ve read that current OLED panels (evo model) are good for nearly 100,000 hours — so panel robustness and longevity has very much been increased since the beginning and introduction of the panel tech almost a decade ago. With that in mind - we shouldn’t be so worried about lifespan…. The c2 isn’t even old enough to make much of a dent in 100,000 hours even if it was on all day.
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They are better and more mitigating but hours doesn't tell the whole story like I said - esp. in regard to buying used displays.
 
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so I am serious thinking of changing my mind of moving from Asus PG48 back to the LG C2. As it's the same panel, I can get a 48" for about $800 from Woot, so if I buy from Asus, it's double the price. So I seriously need to ask, what do I get for that extra $800+ from Asus? Don't tell me the Heat sink costs that much
 
Happy Hopping said:
so I am serious thinking of changing my mind of moving from Asus PG48 back to the LG C2. As it's the same panel, I can get a 48" for about $800 from Woot, so if I buy from Asus, it's double the price. So I seriously need to ask, what do I get for that extra $800+ from Asus? Don't tell me the Heat sink costs that much
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Display port and possibly shit quality with an hard time trying to get a replacement/refund.
 
Don't forget the matte abraded outer layer. Unfortunately there aren't many (any?) options for glossy outside of some of LG's gaming tvs. Most screens marketed as monitors will have an abraded matte AG layer on them.

Also unfortunate that most likely the only dp 2.1 displays out in the next few years will probably be matte abraded outer layer. Until hdmi versions catch up or tv mfgs somehow start to include dp 2.1 but they stick with hdmi for the hdcp I think so that might never happen outside of "monitors".


. . . . . .

This is from the PG42UQ review on tft central

and yes (controversially to some people it seems) a matte anti-glare coating.
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The PG42UQ features a more traditional monitor-like matte anti-glare coating, as opposed to a glossy panel coating like you’d find on TV’s including the LG C2. This does a very good job of reducing reflections and handling external light sources like windows and lamps and we noticed much better reflection handling (no surprise) than the LG C2. However this does mean that in some conditions the blacks do not look as deep or inky visually to the user. With this being an OLED panel, famous for its true blacks and amazing contrast ratio this could be considered a problem – are you “wasting” that by having an AG coating that reduces your perceived contrast?

In certain conditions blacks look a little more dark grey as the anti-reflective coating reflects some of the surrounding light back at you and it “dulls” the contrast a bit. The anti-glare coating means the image is not as clear and clean as a fully glossy coating. You don’t get this same effect if the coating is fully glossy as there’s no AG layer, but what you do get instead is more reflections. Don’t forget this same thing applies to all AG coated desktop monitors, you have the same impact on perceived black depth and contrast on IPS, TN Film and VA panels depending on your lighting conditions if there’s an AG coating used. You’d still get better relative blacks and contrast on the OLED (not to mention other benefits) compared with LCD technologies. They are all impacted in the same way by their coatings.

This impact to the black depth and contrast really varies though depending on your ambient lighting. If you were using the screen in a darker room and were careful about the positioning of your light sources, then blacks look very good and as you would hope for from an OLED screen. Just because it’s got an AG coating doesn’t mean it can’t still offer those benefits, it certainly can. In a dark room blacks and contrast look excellent. In daytime viewing or with light sources in certain places though the blacks do get impacted a bit and you lose some of that perceived contrast. Some people might assume that the screen is flawed or that this ruins the experience
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. . . . . . . . . . .

One of my replies from this thread:

https://hardforum.com/threads/do-glossy-displays-require-dark-rooms.2024933/#post-1045559484

Main takeaways are that

- you are going to get some kind of ghost like reflection even with a matte layer, and when direct light sources are hitting the screen they will still be compromising the screen parameters (perceived contrast, saturation . . washing it out at least on zones where the direct light is splashing on the screen surface).

- you are going to create a frost like effect on the light coming out of the screen through the matte diffusion layer.

-ambient lighting hitting the screen will also raise blacks to greys and can affect how wet and saturated the screen looks. The +$500 apple "nano" layer allows more saturation through it's matte glass layer than most matte layers do but it still takes things out of focus some degrees in effect, blurring/losing some fine detail. All matte diffuse, they are a light diffusion layer using abrasions.

Ghost in the matte screen 👻

inside-mirror_102618012504.jpg
 
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It's a reflection on glossy not a ghost. Point is you are still polluting your ag abraded screen with light blobs + an activate frost haze, and seeing ghosty reflection blobs in it when you allow ambient light to pollute the screen surface. That and you are raising the black levels, making the screen looks less saturated/more dull than the clear wet glossy look. All abraded layers are diffusing light that hits it from either direction.

There are a bunch of examples in that thread I linked.

The very light you are trying to delete from your screen via abrading the surface is "activating" the frost like sheen of the ag layer, splashing against the micro abraisions like light hitting thin dry frost - lifting blacks and losing that wet dark saturated, clear look. The only way to get near that look is to view AG coated in dim to dark viewing conditions without ambient light sources hitting it in the first place.

Most reference monitors come with a hood in the kit by default because they know light pollution ruins how settings/calibration looks to your eyes. Allowing light conditions to vary throughout the day/night/weather will also swing how brightness/contrast/saturation looks, paling it or making it more intense since our eyes and brain seen everything relatively.


Eizo coloredge prominence CG3146

Light-Shielding Hood​


The monitor comes bundled with a light-shielding hood that effectively prevents glare on the screen caused by ambient lighting. The hood attaches magnetically for quick and easy setup.


hood.gif


I'm not saying install a hood on every screen, you can get a similar effect by designing your lighting environment around your screen rather than the other way around. One of the best ways is to face your back to a wall. The stereotypical way of setting a desk up against a wall like a bookshelf or upright piano with your back to the room is a like a catcher's mitt for light pollution.

Otherwise, putting floor lamps/wall lamps, unshaded windwos etc in line with/on the wall the screen's back is facing and then turning off (via smart switches/bulbs for example) and shuttering any other light direct light sources facing the face of the screen while using it. White painted walls are probably not optimal either. Overhead/overhead fluorescent lighting is terrible.

. . . . . . . . . .

some examples of matte abraded layers still getting light pollution and tradeoffs


rYb3PCeiRycaWhzuxk5U3k-1200-80.jpg


4N6Rgvi.png


Or course you are seeing this picture below on whatever screen surface you are using at the moment so it's more of a simulation. ;)


matte-glossy.jpg





. . . . . .

https://euro.dough.tech/blogs/news/matte-vs-glossy-gaming-monitors-technology-explained


7fc6daaf63fa0869961e502ac6cb4fb2e99b179e_480x480.jpg




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075c78e242e254fd3f497774caaceadd54b947ba_480x480.jpg



subpixel photo the euro.dough.tech site referenced from TFTcentral:


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well, when I first setup my room, I have my concern on that, so I make sure my screen is not behind a windows, as to light, I use energy saving spot light that is shine at an angle so they never shine on my screen directly

so matte or glossy screen, doesn't make much difference at all. I am using 43" Viewsonic VX screen, I wonder what screen it is, glossy or matte. In fact, now that you mention about these glossy vs. matte screen, I wonder what my Philip 4035UC was? And I stick w/ that for 5 yr., no problem there.

in short, if I am not concern about glossy vs. matte screen, is there other big gain I get for that extra $1K?
 
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How far are people sitting from these? On a desk it seem like maybe 25" to 30" is about all the room there is.
 
Jumpem said:
How far are people sitting from these? On a desk it seem like maybe 25" to 30" is about all the room there is.
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..

A better measure for this that takes the ppi and distance into consideration is PPD, pixels per degree. The PPD number is how many pixels per degree of your view but it also represents the perceived pixel size to your eyes and brain by nature of that so you could think of it as the perceived pixel density (though the D really stands for 'per Degree).
https://qasimk.io/screen-ppd/

.
At the human viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 4k screen of any size gets around 64 to 77 PPD.
.
At the human viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 2560x1440 screen of any size gets only 43 PPD to 51 PPD.
.
At the human viewing angle of 60 to 50 degrees, every 1920x1080 screen of any size gets only 20 PPD to 25 PPD
.

A 42" 4k hits 60 degree viewing angle at 32" inches.

A 42" 4k hits 50 degree viewing angle at ~ 39 inches.


You have to go by the screen surface to your eyeballs though, not the desk dimensions if you want to be precise. There can be some variance there too depending on what you are doing - if you are over your desk with your peripherals on top of it or if you are more casually laid back using a game controller in your chair for example.

Pixel sizes are more or less compensated for at 60PPD but only because text sub sampling and aggressive AA in games are applied to mask how large the pixel structure actually is. Unfortunately LG OLED uses WRGB and samsung uses Pentile which are both non-standard subpixel layouts which text-ss is not designed for. The 2D desktop's graphics and imagery typically have no pixel size/edge-masking compensations at all either. So even higher than 60 PPD is better. The smaller the perceived pixel sizes, the less noticeable artifacts and fringing issues are. In text and even occasional edge artifacts from things like DLSS and frame insertion/amplification technologies. Larger perceived pixel sizes, larger problems.
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.

This graphic shows the optimal viewing distances of both a 42" 4k and a 48" 4k, plus a lower 50-ish PPD one at 24" to show how a lot of people are viewing one on a desk sub-optimally at ~ 1500p like PPD.
tJWvzHy.png
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-.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-.-.--.-

Human viewing angle is 50 to 60 degrees

3kU3adt.png


optimal viewing angle minimizes the off axis and non-uniform edges
XvKRu9t.png


Sitting too close pushes the sides of the screen outside of your viewpoint and makes the off-axis areas larger:
RUdpoK8.png




Decoupling the screen from the desk is the most optimal way to setup your layout for viewing gaming TVs if at all possible... though you can do the same thing essentially with a flat footed or caster wheeled tv stand. The kind with a simple slim flat spine. I prefer that for more modularity if I want to move anything (completely or even slightly) and for not having to break into the wall.


https://i.redd.it/k972rgcctena1.jpg

https://i.redd.it/o4tzj8m5802a1.png


. . . .

These screens are too big to get 60 to 50 deg viewing angle unless you decouple them from a desk to get a little more distance to begin with. Most people are shoehorning them directly onto a desk and getting something more like 1500p desktop monitor pixel sizes to their perspective.

You don't hit a 60 deg viewing angle (and 64 PPD) on a 42" screen until you are sitting at 32" from screen surface to eyeballs. ~ 51 PPD at 24" view distance for example is like a 27" 1440p or 1500p at a desk. Not to mention pushing the sides of the screen outside of your 60 to 50 deg human viewing angle.


. . . .
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. .
"Normal" / stereotypical "drafting table" or office cubicle like setups for media and gaming are overrated imo. I get that some people are confined by circumstances and space but otherwise consider breaking out of the 90's "up against the wall like a bookshelf" / "upright piano keyboard with sheet music screen" pc scenario.


piano-clipart-25.gif





A slim rail spined tv stand (flat footed or caster wheeled) with full wall-mount like VESA hardware is around $90 - $150 usd and is very modular.

(tray installs are optional on these types of stands)


swll7VU.png




sHneoux.png





That or a more dedicated wall mount or a 2ndary surface for the screen to sit on. Uncouple your screen from your desk. You can get a peripherals desk on caster wheels potentially too or install some on a capable desk - then roll your desk back up to the screen or vice-versa to save space when not in use if necessary. It can also potentially provide enough flexibility in setting up your room layout that you can keep your screen from being a giant light collector catcher's mitt to every direct light source in the room (light pollution is bad no matter if glossy or coated). People do racing wheels, dance pads or dance tracking camera game areas, small scale VR gaming (beat saber, etc) areas, etc. Consoles from a couch. Or even small exercise areas similarly. And it's not even going as far as that. You can still have your full desk. (Space and finances permitting) - It's not really an outrageous concept to get a floor TV stand and increase the distance to a larger screen a bit. An incease of 8 to 12 inches from what was a 24" view distance on a 42" 4k stuck on a desk would result in 32" to 36" view distance, 60deg 64PPD to to 54 deg 71 PPD. Better viewing angle, better pixel density, better text, smaller upscaling/frame amplification edge artifacts, and finer 2d desktop graphics and imagery whose pixel sizes are uncompensated for by AA/sub-sampling.

. . . . .

768839_8ss1o9P.png
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Jumpem said:
How far are people sitting from these? On a desk it seem like maybe 25" to 30" is about all the room there is.
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Same distance as any monitor when using zero Windows scaling. It works like a multi-monitor with just a single display.
 
realworld said:
Same distance as any monitor when using zero Windows scaling. It works like a multi-monitor with just a single display.
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Not true really unless you are ok with pixel sizes that look the same as what a 1440p to 1500p desktop monitor looks like, along with the ends of the screen being pushed outside of your view and more of those areas off axis/non uniform. The non-standard pixel layout just makes having larger pixels effectively to your perspective an even worse downgrade in the text facet which leads many people using them mounted on top of a desk to increase the scaling in attempt to compensate. That drops the effective desktop real-estate down well below 4k 1:1 px of real-estate as well though, and doesn't do anything to mask how big the pixels actually are for the 2d desktop's graphics and imagery where there is no text-ss or AA to mask the pixel sizes, and increasing the scaling on the desktop doesn't do anything for the limitations of AA vs PPD in games.

You don't get the fine pixel sizes of 4k perceptually until you get near (64deg) 60 deg viewing angle to 50 degree human central viewing angle., where 60 deg = 64 PPD and 50 deg = 77PPD.
 
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jarablue said:
I sit 35 inches from my 48in C2 and use it every day as my pc monitor. It's a treat and have 0 issues.
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That's in the sweet spot of around 36inch to 45inch on a 48" diagonal screen. 👍:cool:

Also in the central viewing angle of 32inch to 39inch for a 42" diagonal screen.

844503_tJWvzHy.png
:cool:
 
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Does anyone know if the LG G2 is glossy?

I love my LG C9 as a gaming monitor, but it’s starting to age a little, and maybe it’s time for an upgrade? I won’t ever buy a non-glossy tv though. That anti-reflective coating is atrocious.
 
jarablue said:
I sit 35 inches from my 48in C2 and use it every day as my pc monitor. It's a treat and have 0 issues.
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I am a little under 30 inches from my 42" C2... feels very immersing and natural at that distance.
 
Hershy said:
Does anyone know if the LG G2 is glossy?

I love my LG C9 as a gaming monitor, but it’s starting to age a little, and maybe it’s time for an upgrade? I won’t ever buy a non-glossy tv though. That anti-reflective coating is atrocious.
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Its glossy. And yeah glossy is nice. I briefly had a C2 and had no reflections cause my desk is in a corner and I've got a window on each side of me
 
jarablue said:
I sit 35 inches from my 48in C2 and use it every day as my pc monitor. It's a treat and have 0 issues.
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Same. I sit back about 33 inches. More if I'm leaning back in my chair which I sometimes do.
 
Apologies if this has been answered many times in this thread already. What settings do I need to adjust out of the box for use a monitor for gaming? A link to posts that already cover this would be fine.
 
Do you use your OLED for web browsing, Excel, etc. other than gaming or do you have a secondary LCD monitor for those things?
 
Jumpem said:
Do you use your OLED for web browsing, Excel, etc. other than gaming or do you have a secondary LCD monitor for those things?
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I use mine 8 hours a day for my WFH machine doing all the things you just mentioned. I am at a little over 1K hours now and no issues to speak of. I do have a 2nd vertical monitor that I keep Outlook/Teams on since they need to stay static all day.
 
Jumpem said:
Do you use your OLED for web browsing, Excel, etc. other than gaming or do you have a secondary LCD monitor for those things?
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Yes. I use mine for everything. Going on I think 3 years now? I WFH and use my 48CX for work, entertainment, gaming, etc. It's usually on for 12-15 hours per day.

I use dark themes when available to cut down on eye strain.
 
DooLocsta said:
I use mine 8 hours a day for my WFH machine doing all the things you just mentioned. I am at a little over 1K hours now and no issues to speak of. I do have a 2nd vertical monitor that I keep Outlook/Teams on since they need to stay static all day.
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Lateralus said:
Yes. I use mine for everything. Going on I think 3 years now? I WFH and use my 48CX for work, entertainment, gaming, etc. It's usually on for 12-15 hours per day.

I use dark themes when available to cut down on eye strain.
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Thanks guys. I set the desktop, Windows theme, and Office to all be as dark as possible.

I only need to have Excel up for an hour or two a week. If I am organizing photos, or managing files I might have a few Windows explorer windows open for a little while.
 
I have a large LG CX in my living room that is used as a television, and a C2 on my desk in the corner. The issue I am having is that the remote for the CX is sometimes inadvertently turning on my C2. It could be the way it is pointing sometimes.

What sort of workarounds do I have? Is there an inline on/off switch I can put between my C2 and UPS to cut power to it when I am away and others may be using the living room TV? There is processing of some sorts that the LG OLEDs do sometimes when they are shut off. So Would have to wait a bit before disconnecting the power.

Any other ideas?
 
Jumpem said:
I have a large LG CX in my living room that is used as a television, and a C2 on my desk in the corner. The issue I am having is that the remote for the CX is sometimes inadvertently turning on my C2. It could be the way it is pointing sometimes.

What sort of workarounds do I have? Is there an inline on/off switch I can put between my C2 and UPS to cut power to it when I am away and others may be using the living room TV? There is processing of some sorts that the LG OLEDs do sometimes when they are shut off. So Would have to wait a bit before disconnecting the power.

Any other ideas?
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Aside from using the physical button to turn your C2 on/off (which I realize largely defeats the purpose of a remote!) yeah, you could just plug the C2 (and any related equipment) into a surge protector that's either on the desk or the floor so that you could easily reach the main power button on the strip.

Of course, this being [H], the preferred alternative would be to reprogram your remote (or C2's firmware) so that they operated independently of the CX. :p I'm only halfway kidding about that.
 
Jumpem said:
I have a large LG CX in my living room that is used as a television, and a C2 on my desk in the corner. The issue I am having is that the remote for the CX is sometimes inadvertently turning on my C2. It could be the way it is pointing sometimes.

What sort of workarounds do I have? Is there an inline on/off switch I can put between my C2 and UPS to cut power to it when I am away and others may be using the living room TV? There is processing of some sorts that the LG OLEDs do sometimes when they are shut off. So Would have to wait a bit before disconnecting the power.

Any other ideas?
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Try this:
Point the remote to the room ceiling corner near and opposite the TV you want to turn on.
The signal will reflect off and should still be strong enough to reach the TV closest and could well be too weak and/or be at too steep an angle to trigger the other TV.
(assuming you dont have black walls! That likely will reflect jack all of the signal.)
Try different variations of angle to the back wall(s) to see which works without question.

I use this method to control my satellite receiver when my PC monitor is in the way of a direct line to the sat box.
Works great.
Rather than raising my hand high up and pointing over the top of the monitor, I just point it backward toward my shoulder, reflecting off the rear room ceiling corner.
 
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